Sparkling wine is so popular some version of it is made in almost every country that produces wine. Sadly, most of it is drunk only during holidays or special occasions. Whether it’s called Champagne, Cremant, Sekt, Prosecco, Cava, Spumante, or something else, sparkling wine is the prime choice for celebrations of all types.
That certainly is understandable. Just as bubbles rise, sparkling wines seem by their very nature to elevate a wine and the wine drinking experience.
My mission here is to convince you to drink sparkling wine throughout the year. Luckily, there are many reasonably priced sparklers to make that an easy choice. And what better time than summer (or fall, winter or spring). That they are best chilled; are versatile with food – available as red, white or pink – and have palate cleansing bubbles, all give them an advantage over most other wines.
NOTE: All wines in this column are nonvintage unless otherwise identified.
While Champagne is the benchmark for sparkling wine, there are good sparklers elsewhere in France. Usually labeled Crémant, these also are made using the “Methode Champenoise” or “Methode Traditionnelle” (meaning the bubbles are created using the method where a second fermentation occurs in the bottle thus trapping the resultant carbonation). Notably, they an affordable alternative.
I particularly like Crémant d’Alsace. Alsace is better known for amazing Rieslings and Gewürztraminers but its Crémant is produced from the classic Champagne varieties – pinot noir and chardonnay – though pinot blanc, pinot gris and riesling may make it into some blends. A good example is the Lucien Albrecht, Brut Rosé ($23). From a winery that dates to 1698 and was a pioneer in the establishment of the first Alsace Crémants about fifty years ago, this 100 percent pinot noir offers crisp strawberry fruit with finesse and a creamy palate.
One I don’t see very often but enjoyed in my tasting is Crémant de Loire. Gratien & Meyer, a producer of fine sparklers in Saumur for over 150 years has combined Champagne grapes (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) with Loire grapes (Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc for a fine Brut Rosé ($18).
Italians take their bubbly every bit as seriously as do the French and have been making it nearly as long. Prosecco, the fresh, foamy, fruity frizzante from northeastern Veneto has vaulted in popularity in recent years. Made from the native glera grape in the hills north of Venice, Prosecco (the name of the production zone) unlike the other sparklers in this report is produced using the Charmat Method. In this case, the bubbles are produced by inducing the second fermentation in pressurized stainless steel tanks, instead of the bottle. This preserves glera’s fresh aromas and clean, delicate fruit (pear, citrus, apple and peach) at lower alcohol than most bubbly.
Founded in 1887, Mionetto today is one of the widest distributed Prosecco brands. Its Prestige Brut ($14) offers a lively, delicate palate. Pasqua, maker of popular value wines for 95 years, name checks Veneto’s star-crossed lovers with an elegant, “Romeo & Juliet” Brut ($16).
Lambrusco from Emilia-Romagna is enjoying a reintroduction to American consumers as artisan bubbly – exuberantly fruity berries and mostly dry, not the sickly sweet, mass-produced froth of the past. One of the best is Cleto Chiarli, which has been making Lambrusco near Modena in Emilia Romagna since 1860. Chiarli makes only Lambrusco (with the Charmat Method) and uses only estate grapes. I suspect these still may be an acquired taste for some but I think they are delicious, versatile, and flavorful.
- 2019 Vigneto Cialdini ($17) effusive, luscious, firm, savory
- 2019 Premium Vecchia Modena ($16) floral, fresh, lively, deeply fruitful
- 2019 Centenario Amabile ($13) succulent, delightfully semi sweet, crisp finish
- Nonvintage Brut di Noir Rosé ($16) tart, juicy, easy drinking
Cava is Spain’s contribution that has long been a go-to for wallet-friendly fizz. It is typically produced by the traditional method with the indigenous grapes macabeo, xarel-lo, and parellada in the Penedès not far from Barcelona.
Having made wine since 1861, Freixenet produced its first sparkling sparkling wine in 1914 and has grown to be the world’s largest producer of Champagne Method wines. Two of its most popular wines ($15) are the delicate, fresh Cordon Negro Brut and berried, slightly sweet Brut Rosé.
Codorníu, has been making Cava since 1872 when the family introduced the traditional method to Spain. Its Clasico Brut, made using native grapes, at ($11) is its most popular and accessible wine. It also produces an interesting line using the traditional Champagne grapes. The Anna de Codorníu line is a tribute to the last person in the family that bore the surname Codorníu. The NV Brut Rosé ($15), 70 percent pinot noir and 30 percent chardonnay, focuses on refreshing, lightly sweet cherry and strawberry but also a hint of green apple.
Segura Viudas is situated on an estate that dates to the 11th century, which may be one reason the owners have such an appreciation on sustainability. Its crown jewel, the full, elegant Reserva Heredad ($30), is blended from just macabeo and parellada and is a fine example of what extra attention like aging on the lees can accomplish.
California sparkling wine consumption also has grown significantly in recent years, in fact the fastest of all categories in the past year. California makes many truly fine sparkling wines. One of the best comes from the Ferrer family, owner of Spain’s Freixenet, who has been producing highly regarded sparkling wines under the Gloria Ferrer label since 1986 from estate vineyards in Carneros. The Blanc de Noirs ($22) was represented in my tasting. At 92 percent pinot noir and 8 percent chardonnay it showed vibrant cherry and apple, with a creamy palate. Also look for the Sonoma Brut ($22), Blanc de Blancs ($22) and Brut Rosé ($27).
Roederer Estate, which was founded in Mendocino County in 1981 by the Champagne Louis Roederer family, has long been a favorite of mine. These wines are sourced from organically farmed estate vineyards in the Anderson Valley. Importantly, they add oak-aged reserve wines to each year’s cuvée, a practice common in Champagne, to achieve a characteristic richness and complexity. The Brut ($24) is 60 percent chardonnay and 40 percent pinot noir.
Also notable in my tasting, the inaugural sparkling wine of a young Sonoma County winery, the 2018 Sosie “Bare Necessity” Sparkling Rosé ($30) benefits from native fermentation and no additives.
Farther north in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Argyle has produced sparkling wine since its founding in 1981. Its 2016 Brut ($28), its foundational wine, is comprised of the traditional Champagne grapes while aging three years on the lees in 30 percent neutral oak. This adds up to richness with a juicy lemon custard character.
After all this, though, Champagne still is the world’s most prestigious sparkling wine and is considered the standard for other bubbly. Typically blends of pinot noir and chardonnay with dollops of pinot meunier, the best Champagnes expertly balance richness and delicacy.
A nonvintage Brut is the most widely enjoyed style, partly because it is the most affordable. It also represents the signature style of a Champagne house, as it is blended to achieve a yearly consistency. A good example is the Alfred Gratien Classic Brut ($50). This winery has been making bubbly since 1864 and is one of the last remaining Champagne houses carrying out the entire vinification process using wood. This bottling (mostly chardonnay with pinot noir and pinot meunier) does not undergo malolactic fermentation but is aged five years on the lees and fermented and matured in barriques, giving it a rich texture, with crisp, apple and citrus.
A good nonvintage Rosé also is a special experience. Billecart-Salmon, founded in 1818, has been making Champagne Rosé since the 1840s. Its Brut Rosé ($90), vinified in stainless steel and aged on lees three years, offers crisp red fruits and fresh bread with a rich, slightly spicy palate.
Finally, sometimes you want something special and Vintage Champagne fits the bill. Such it is with the 2008 Laurent-Perrier Brut Millésimé ($80). Laurent-Perrier has chosen to make vintages very rarely, only selecting the very best years. This one’s luxurious fruit is a perfect example why. Half chardonnay and half pinot noir, it is aged seven years on the lees, yielding enticing ripe citrus and apple, with toasty, creamy, and spicy notes that drink firmly yet elegantly.