For some reason, it seems California Sauvignon Blanc has often been an afterthought with consumers. Not only does it consistently play second fiddle in popularity to Chardonnay, it seems there is always a new fave that steals consumer’s attention – Pinot Grigio, even New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc – even if only for a limited time.
But that may be changing. Growers and winemakers are taking the grape more seriously and quality has improved even as more offerings are available. And people who watch these kinds of things say consumer interest is ticking up. This is good news as there arguably is more good California Sauvignon Blanc on the market than ever.
The grape has a noble heritage as a parent (with cabernet franc) of cabernet sauvignon. It is responsible for the Loire Valley wines of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé and, with semillon, the white Bordeaux of Graves and Sauternes. The grape also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile.
Its flavor profile comes in several styles, though it’s usually assertively aromatic, with refreshing acidity. Generally, expect brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) but also other citrus, especially grapefruit, and a distinctive (sometimes spicy) herbaceousness. Some also are evocative of fresh cut hay or grass. Wines made from riper fruit often display melon, nectarine or peach, or even tropical fruits.
While growers are paying more attention to where and how the grape is planted, winemakers are employing creative approaches in the cellar. Usually most of a wine is fermented and aged in stainless steel to emphasize fresh, varietal characteristics but occasionally some of the wine is conditioned with time in other containers, like oak.
I found a number of “good values” around $20 and under. These tend to be lighter with the focus on varietal fruit but all display the grape’s trademark refreshing character. Think of them as everyday go-tos.
- 2019 Priest Ranch Napa Valley ($22) native yeasts, stainless steel drums; zesty, intense, citrusy
- 2019 Bonterra California ($14) made with organic grapes; vibrant citrus and stone fruit, subtle hint of grass
- 2019 Rodney Strong Charlotte’s Home Sonoma County ($17) apple and tropical fruit, lean and spicy
- 2019 Imagery California ($20) a value driven brand from the Benziger family; tropical and grapefruit, herbal
As consumer friendly as these wines are, I found more complexity and flavor interest as prices escalated.
- 2019 Ehler’s Estate St. Helena ($32) certified organic vineyard, aged sur lie (lees stirring) in stainless drums; succulent, citrus, full-bodied, savory, crisp
- 2018 Robert Mondavi “Fumé” Napa Valley ($24) the wine that first drew consumer attention to sauvignon blanc about 55 years ago; barrel fermented and aged sur lie with 13 percent Semillon; succulent lemon-lime, fresh, juicy, herbal notes
- 2018 The Paring Santa Ynez Valley ($25) a project of the owners of Jonata and The Hilt wines (same as the owners of the Denver Nuggets and Colorado Avalanche); aged in 1/3 new French oak, 1/3 neutral French, 1/3 stainless steel; vibrant, tropical fruit, fruity, anise
- 2019 Clockwise Russian River Valley ($30) from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist MacRostie and vineyards farmed by the respected Dutton family; sauvignon musqué clone; mix of oak and stainless; tangy citrus and stone fruits, plush
- 2019 Acumen Mountainside ($30) winery focused on Napa Valley hillside vineyards makes this wine from Dry Creek Valley hillside vineyards; 67 percent in neutral oak, 33 percent in stainless steel; piercing citrus, herbs and fresh hay, spicy
- 2019 Ram’s Gate Carneros Estate ($38) 10 percent new French oak, 70 percent neutral barrels, 20 percent stainless steel; juicy tropical fruit, hint of pepper
In recent years, an elite of wines of exceptional character has emerged to the point where well-known wine author Karen MacNeill has coined the term “Super Sauvignons”. These wines may benefit from the use of several types of fermenting and aging vessels –concrete tanks, new and used oak, stainless steel barrels, and amphorae – for fermentation, along with practices such as lees stirring to build complexity and texture.
The wines below share a complex profile of bright, ripe fruit, mineral savory notes, and sophisticated, rich textures. And they are cellar worthy. Notably, each winery below is from the Napa Valley.
- 2019 Spottswoode ($42) combines 2/3 Napa fruit and 1/3 Sonoma fruit, elevated with a combination of French oak, small stainless steel barrels, a clay amphora, and one ceramic and two concrete tanks; balances textural vibrancy and richness, with structure and complexity
- 2018 Acumen PEAK Atlas Peak Estate ($75) from high altitude Attelas Vineyard, lees stirring; intense citrus and stone fruit, minerals and spicy herbs, oaky richness, supple yet stimulating
- 2019 Turnbull “Josephine” Oakville ($50) aged in French oak barrels, concrete and amphorae; tropical fruit, lush textyre, stony notes, perky structure
- 2018 Cuvaison Méthode Béton Carneros Estate Grown ($40) the “method” is aging on the lees in concrete eggs (bétons); crisp, persistent, intense, juicy lemon/lime, graceful, yet structured, grassy
NOTE: Wines are listed in order of preference within each category but all are recommended.