While cabernet sauvignon, merlot and pinot noir dominate red wine sales in the U.S. and most other markets, what are referred to as Rhône varieties – especially grenache, syrah and mourvèdre – can produce quality that rivals and often surpasses the big three.
Grenache is the preferred variety in Southern Rhône, as it adapts well to the range of soils and growing conditions in the area and is the prime grape in the fine blends of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is chock full of currant and red fruit flavors and contributes body and finesse.
Syrah is the star of Northern Rhône, producing the great wines of Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie. It is characterized by complex notes of dark fruits, herbs and spice. Low in acidity and high in tannins, it acts as a balancing force for the blend.
Mourvèdre makes a fine companion to grenache and syrah in the blended wines of the region. It usually contributes smaller percentages, except for the wines of Bandol. It provides deep color, structure and an array of flavors including blueberry, blackberries and herbs, black pepper and smoke.
These wines are often quite expensive. So, I suggest you try “Côtes du Rhône” for an affordable introduction. The red blends must be comprised of a minimum of 30% grenache, and grenache, syrah and mourvèdre are required to make up at least 70% of the blend. This allows winemakers to express their diverse terroir while showcasing their expertise and creating a consistent style.
2017 J.L. Chave Sélection “Mon Coeur” ($22). Wine growers in the northern Rhône since 1481, Chave Hermitage, both rouge (syrah) and blanc (marsanne), are considered by many to be the epitome of such wines. Jean-Louis Chave Selections, the négociant line that sources grapes from various areas in the northern Rhône, represents a more accessible way for the consumer to experience the wines of the Chave family. “Mon Coeur” is a blend of half estate and half purchased organically grown grapes, with 60 percent grenache. As with all things Chave, quality – cherry compote, savory notes, touches of anise and earth – is eminent even at the entry level.
2017 Ferraton “Samorëns” ($16). A producer-négociant founded in 1946 that has pioneered estate-bottled wines in the Rhône; with 85 percent grenache, this blend shows nice red fruits, with hints of leather, earth cinnamon, and tea notes, and silky tannins.
2016 Domaine St. Gayan ($16) based in the Southern Rhone appellation of Gigondas and notable for wines from very old vines (some up to 100 years in age); with 75 percent grenache it reveals a depth, richness and complexity not often found at this level.
2017 Jean-Luc Colombo Les Abeilles ($14). From one of the premier producers in the northern appellation of Cornas, this is open and round in mouthfeel with cherry and plum preserves, vanilla and anise.
2016 Celliers des Dauphins Reserve ($15). Essentially a grower’s cooperative created in 1967 as the Union of Côtes du Rhône winegrowers bringing together 2,300 winemaking families in the southern Rhône Valley; with 60 percent grenache, it reveals bright berries, dark forest and pepper.
And I had a bit of a ringer in my Côtes du Rhône tasting, a 2017 Ferraton “La Matinière” Crozes-Hermitage ($26). A 100 percent syrah wine from the northern Rhône, this wine is a fine value and can be thought of as a more approachable (in terms of early drinking and price) alternative to the more complex and expensive Hermitage. Its crisp, generous dark fruits are offset with earthy accents, including pepper, smoke, leather, and mineral delivered in a velvety mouthfeel.
The California Rhône style wines in my tasting, though all in a significantly higher price range, provide a useful comparison. In general, they can be characterized as displaying deeper, riper fruit, while staying true to varietal character.
2015 Ramey Syrah Rodgers Creek Vineyard ($65). Best known for great Chardonnays, Ramey also produces fine red wines, including this impressive single vineyard Syrah from a vineyard in the sought after Petaluma Gap area of Sonoma Coast. Made with 8 percent viognier following a common practice in Hermitage, it deftly balances ripe, fresh and generous berries and dark plum with savory elements of chocolate, pepper, licorice and earth. It’s focused but has soft tannins and a rich texture.
2016 Mi Sueno Syrah Napa Valley ($55). From a husband and wife team with a resume that includes making wine for and supplying grapes to some of California’s most prestigious wineries; expect a full, rich, wine of intense black fruits, with peppery, meaty accents and firm tannins.
Bootleg, a brand that emphasizes crafting wines without constraint from a specific varietal, appellation, or winemaking tradition, produces two red wine blends: “Red Blend”, which combines Napa Valley sources, and “Prequel”, which focuses on Sonoma County fruit. The varieties in each blend change from year to year but both contain significant amounts of syrah and petite sirah. These are exuberant, bold wines for those who prefer an opulent style.
The 2016 Red Blend ($38) adds merlot to the blend and deftly balances structure, and finesse, with bright red fruit, oaky and earthy notes, with a fresh, full texture. The 2016 Prequel ($35) – 85 percent syrah and 15 percent petite sirah – is a luscious wine of refreshing dark berries, complimented with black pepper, woodsy and toasty oak, drinking with velvety tannins.