Despite a period early this century when its reputation took a hit, merlot is one of the most widely planted grape varieties in the world. It is the second most planted variety in the United States and the fourth most planted red variety in California. And Merlot is third in U.S. sales of California red wines after Cabernet Sauvignon and Red Blends.
Merlot wine can be mistaken for its sibling Cabernet Sauvignon. The major difference is that it tends to present a softer texture and rounder mouthfeel. Expect cherry and blueberry fruit and herbal, sometimes chocolatey notes.
It can produce Cabernet-like quality usually at more reasonable prices. And I did find several good values for this report. I also found the world-class quality one would expect at higher prices. Like Cabernet, the best wines are full, rich, featuring dark fruits and solid structure, often with savory or baking spice elements, balancing power, elegance, and complexity. All wines are listed in order of my preference, regardless of price.
2017 Duckhorn Three Palms Vineyard ($110) Considered by many California’s premier Merlot producer for the last 40 years. From the storied vineyard on the Napa Valley floor, this wine offers layers of succulent black cherry with toast, herbs and spice balanced with sweet oak. It is focused and rich but structured to develop well over the next several years.
2017 Chappellet Napa Valley ($45) This maker of some of Napa’s most prized Cabs, also excels with Merlot. Expect plump cherry, blackberry, vanilla, cocoa, and herbaceous accents, in a rich, seamless frame, with firming tannins.
2017 Duckhorn Rector Creek Vineyard ($100) This vineyard along Napa’s Silverado Trail, shows blueberry, baking spice, and a vanilla core. Structured but elegant. Should age well.
2016 Northstar Columbia Valley ($41) Washington state’s Merlot specialist; plump black cherry, cocoa notes, baking spice, herbs; presents as elegant and refined.
2017 Duckhorn Atlas Peak ($78) High-elevation vineyards yield concentrated dark fruits, with vanilla, spice and rich, silky tannins.
2016 St. Supéry Napa Valley Estate Vineyard ($50) Opens with a sense of sweet blueberry and blackberry; cocoa, oak and spice accent a lush but firm texture.
2017 Duckhorn Carneros ($78) With fruit from the famousnHyde and Hudson vineyards, this shows bright cherry and raspberry, wrapped in vanilla, with a hint of spice.
2017 Ehlers Napa Valley Estate ($55) Dark berries, lightly spicy and minty, shows admirable depth and richness, with fine-grained tannins.
2017 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($56) Fresh dark cherry and plum, touch of toasty oak and spice, sense of firmness but supple and elegant.
2017 Rutherford Hill Atlas Peak ($60) From a California Merlot pioneer; deep cherry, pretty vanilla, and herbal notes open lean but fill out and close as a deeply fruity wine.
2018 Barnett Vineyards Spring Mountain ($70) Juicy cherry and blueberry, followed by woody, earthy notes; fresh but soft, stewed fruit and anise flavors close.
Finally, four solid values for every day:
- The Napa Valley fruit of 2017 Markham ($29) is juicy and supple, with a sense of concentration.
- Alexander Valley fruit gives the 2018 Chelsea Goldschmidt “Guidestone Rise” ($22) juicy blue and black fruit, hints of creamy and minty oak, and accessible, refreshing texture.
- Sonoma County grapes supply the flavorful red fruit of the softly fresh 2018 Decoy ($25).
- The bright red berries of the lush 2018 Selby ($24) are accented with savory notes.
Originally published in the Colorado Spring Gazette on November 18, 2020.