A SPARKLING NEW YEAR?
If there ever was a reason to celebrate one year ending and a new year beginning, this is it. Several bottles over. From Argentina, California, France, Italy and Oregon, here’s good riddance to 2020 and a hopeful welcome to 2021.
Argentina. Domaine Bousquet Brut Pinot Noir/Chardonnay ($13). A pioneer in Tupungato, the highest district in the Uco Valley sub-region of Mendoza, Bousquet also is notable for its commitment to sustainable farming and organic production. All wines are 100 percent certified organic. This one is full of fresh apple, pear and cherry.
California. Frank Family Vineyards in Napa Valley has produced sparkling wine since its founding in 1993, continuing the tradition of the previous owner Hanns Kornell Champagne Cellars, which occupied the historic winery building (the original Larkmead Winery) from 1958 to 1992. The 2015 Brut Rosé ($55), with 90 percent pinot noir and 10 percent chardonnay, reveals pretty strawberry and cherry flavors gliding on a creamy palate. The 2016 Rouge ($55) despite more chardonnay (27 percent) and less pinot noir (73 percent), is ruby red as it experiences greater skin contact. It is vibrant, rich and creamy, with fresh acidity.
Sosie Wines is located in the Bennett Valley of Sonoma County, a geography that funnels cooling Pacific air inland. Sosie emphasizes a French winemaking style to achieve precision and finesse in their wines. The winery has produced two unique, intriguing sparklers featuring Rhone varieties. The 2018 “First Things First” ($30) is made from roussanne. Very dry, it displays crisp stone fruits wrapped in brioche. It is barrel fermented with native yeast and full malolactic fermentation to achieve a delightful creaminess. The 2018 “A Moment of Weakness” Sparkling Red ($35) is 100 percent syrah and reveals dark berries and plums, with baking spice.
Not surprisingly, the sparkling wine from Sea Smoke, a highly regarded Pinot Noir specialist is 100 percent pinot noir. From sustainable and biodynamic estate vineyards in Santa Barbara’s Santa Rita Hills, the 2015 “Sea Spray” Blanc de Noirs is another crisp, dry succulent wine. Fresh strawberries mix with brown butter in this energetic, complex bubbly.
France. Billecart-Salmon, founded in 1818, has produced a unique cuvée, which is entirely vinified in oak and composed of the three Champagne varieties – pinot nor, chardonnay, and pinot meunier – in equal proportions. The Brut Sous Bois ($80) shows a dramatic bouquet of citrus, cherry and butter and a harmonious expression of citrus and pear coupled with a creamy mouthfeel. As the name suggests, there also is a complimentary earthy component.
Italy. Foamy, fruity Prosecco from northeastern Italy has emerged in recent years as Italy’s go-to valuebollicine (bubbles). Adami, one of the best producers, is known for pioneering single vineyard Prosecco. Its distinctive production methods of giving the wines extended lees contact after initial fermentation and conducting the second fermentation in small batches throughout the year, instead of in one large batch shortly after harvest. Four recent releases illustrate the results:
- “Garbèl” Treviso Brut ($17) dry, crisp and tart with lemon and pear;
- “Bosco di Gica” Valdobbiadene Superiore Brut ($20) bottled with a touch of residual sugar, which lends body rather than sweetness to the palate, offers uplifting foam, brisk citrus with round texture, and tangy finish;
- 2019 “Col Credas” Valdobbiadene Rive di Farra di Soligo Extra Brut ($23) over nine years in development, it is very dry clean, refreshing and elegant with exotic fruit;
- 2018 “Vigneto Giardino” Valdobbiadene Rive di Colbertaldo Asciutto ($23) is from the family’s first vineyard (purchased in 1920) and in 1933 the first single-vineyard Prosecco ever made; it is fruity, focused and intense with a hint of anise. “Asciutto” means dry.
Although Piemonte in Italy’s northwest is most famous for its red wines – Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, etc. – the region also excels with spumante. Enrico Serafino, established in the Roero district 140 years ago, produces fine reds but is best known as a specialist in the production of high quality Metodo Classico (referring to the Champagne Method). One the winery’s best is the 2016 “Oudeis” Alta Langa Brut DOCG ($28), made with chardonnay and pinot nero. It is a fantastic value with dramatic apple, yeasty notes, and impressive structure.
Oregon. Since 1987, Argyle has been one Oregon’s top Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producers and arguably, the state’s best sparkling wine maker. Among its impressive portfolio, the 2016 Blanc de Noirs ($35), mostly pinot noir and a touch of pinot meunier from the Willamette Valley’s Eola-Amity Hills district. Its delightfully fresh and precise red berry fruit, savory notes and creamy texture a just the ticket.