My last post reviewed West Coast Cabernet Sauvignon; this one focuses on the other traditional Bordeaux blending grapes.
Merlot was the first to make an appearance as a varietal wine in the consumer market, and it succeeded wildly on its own merits as a separate and distinct red wine. The others, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, have struggled for recognition.
Merlot as a varietal wine has endured a roller coaster reputation with producers and consumers over the last thirty years. Through all that it has remained the second most important grape in Bordeaux and still quite popular in the U.S. Particularly in California and Washington, there are many fine, world class examples worth your attention.
When done right, the grape yields a rich wine with opulent black fruits and a luscious texture. In addition to generous fruit and an approachable style, the best versions reveal solid body and good concentration. Like cabernet sauvignon, merlot is capable of developing layers of complexity, as well as structure, depth and an ability to improve with age. The major difference is that Merlot wines tend to present a softer texture and rounder mouthfeel.
From Washington’s Columbia Valley, the 2017 Long Shadows “Pedestal” ($65) is a really fine example. Michel Rolland, Pomerol vintner and consultant to many of the world’s top wineries, provided the vision for this limited production Merlot. The grapes are primarily from the Wahluke Slope, with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot to fill it out. This is a wine of opulence and elegance, balance and complexity. it offers concentrated blackberry and cassis are supplemented with of notes of pencil lead oak, tobacco, chocolate, and earth tones.
Cabernet franc is best known for its performances as a supporting actor to lead actor cabernet sauvignon (and occasionally merlot) in Bordeaux and Bordeaux-style wines. However, it has played a notable leading role in the Loire Valley as a lighter, fruitier version. Now, more winemakers, especially in California, have decided it can merit a starring role. In France it generally is a lighter, more refined, mildly herbal relation of Cabernet Sauvignon. In California it tends to be larger scaled and bolder, but capable of refinement even while displaying ample tannins and peppery notes.
I have consistently enjoyed Chappellet’s Napa Valley bottling. The newest release (2017, $85) is an impressive wine. Grown on the high-mountain slopes of Pritchard Hill, it is supplemented with 25 percent cabernet sauvignon, malbec, and petit Verdot. It delivers prominent red and black berries scents with a whiff of oak, pencil lead, herbs and baking spice riding on a firm, structured frame and fresh finish.
Petit Verdot is the rarest of the five traditional Bordeaux varieties. It is relied upon to provide color and tannic structure to the cuvee. It also likely is the rarest of Bordeaux varietal wines. But it can produce rather rich wines on its own.
The 2016 Herrera “Valeria” Petit Verdot ($95), from Napa Valley’s Mi Sueño, is sourced from the Valeria Block (named for owner Rolando Herrera’s youngest daughter) of the winery’s Linda Vista Vineyard in Napa’s Oak Knoll District. The focus here is on the variety’s natural bold structure and juicy tannic extract. The 100 percent varietal wine is aged in 100% new French oak barrels. This has resulted in a wine of rich, complex character with ripe dark berries, toasty oak, hints of cinnamon and cocoa.
Malbec definitely has been experiencing a “moment” lately (actually ten plus years). Argentina’s amazing success with this grape in recent years is one of THE stories of wine. While there are more single variety releases being made these days outside of Argentina, its traditional role as a component in Bordeaux-style blends likely will remain unchanged.
And they generally are very good values. Like the 2018 Septima “Obra” ($22). Septima was established by Raventós Codorníu, the Spanish sparkling wine company with a 470-year viticultural history, in 1999, eight years after Artesa in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley in 1991. Located in Agrelo, a valley in the Luján de Cuyo department of Mendoza, a high-altitude desert at the foothills of the Andes. This distinctive terroir has yielded a wine of dark berries and plum are accented with baking spice and a touch of earth. Its supple tannins are fresh and firm.