Part 1: The Legacy of Earth Day
I remember a time when wines made with organic grapes were considered inferior. Wine shops would carry a few for the true believers but squirrel them away on a few shelves in a corner.
But times change, and as science, taste, environmental and social considerations, and financial benefits grew, wineries began to convert to organic and “sustainable” practices. For many years, though, those wineries preferred not to tout these factors on their labels. Stigmas die hard. But they do eventually die.
Today, more wineries are eager to announce their environmental and sustainable practices in their vineyards and wineries. And with the increase in awareness of climate change, making a positive impact on the environment and in peoples’ lives is driving even more action.
Climate change presents a huge challenge for modern agriculture, particularly as greenhouse gas emissions from farming have one of the largest impacts on climate. And while systemic change is necessary, individual choices matter. Confident in the quality of the wines they can produce, many wineries are pushing the frontier of eco-conscious viticulture. While they may focus on immediate concerns (such as erratic weather), they recognize that to be sustainable, they must look to the future.
I call it drinking well while doing good.
This all is nothing new to Martha Barra, proprietor of BARRA of Mendocino and Girasole Vineyards (same family, same organic vineyards, same winemaker). Her husband Charlie Barra began buying vineyards in the Anderson Valley of Mendocino in 1955. Today Martha continues the “all-organic-for-the-last-65-years” ethos, along with winemaker Randy Meyer. “It is also important we have been certified organic since 1988; certification matters,” she told me.
Ms. Barra also surprised me saying Colorado is their best market after CA for sales of their Girasole Vineyards wines! See what I mean with the concentrated 2017 Barra Petite Sirah ($22) – ripe red and dark berries, concentrated palate, typically chewy tannins, a bit unyielding at first; leave the wine open for a few hours – and the elegant 2019 Girasole Pinot Noir ($20).
Concerns about climate change and sustainability today are worldwide. Another leader in the movement, Symington Family Estates, a prominent vineyard owner and producer in the Douro Valley of Portugal, is also a leader in green initiatives. The family’s sustainability efforts fit in the context of the Porto Protocol (a statement of principles that companies voluntarily commit to pursue “to minimize the effects of climate change by doing more tomorrow than they are today to reduce CO2 emissions, and to share their experiences and expertise”).
CEO Rupert Symington, in an email response said, “Symington Family Estates has signed up to the Porto Protocol [a statement of principles that companies voluntarily commit to pursue to minimize the effects of climate change and to share their experiences]; we are committed to improving our sustainability practices (including carbon neutrality before 2050) and those of our industry.” These commitments include an emissions reduction plan to achieve carbon neutrality before 2050; entering into a partnership with Rewilding Portugal to support the recovery of habitat and prey for keystone species in the Douro Valley.
Introduce yourself to the family with the intensely flavored 2019 Vale do Bonfim ($13) blend of native varieties – half touriga franca, 20 percent touriga nacional, and the rest a field blend. And don’t forget their great Dow’s and Graham’s Ports.
Sustainability also travels with the grapes into the winery. Barra pays special attention to packaging, using cork made of sugar cane when they aren’t using screw caps, packaging that disintegrates, and lighter bottles. Symington is building a new low-impact winery at their organically farmed Quinta do Ataíde, expected to be the first LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certified winery in Portugal.
And sustainability applies to the community. According to Martha Barra, at her winery they are careful to make sure their workers have adequate housing, transportation, meals and pay above the average compensation. Symington is certified as a “B Corporation”. B (as in Benefit) Corporations consider the impact of their decisions on their workers, customers, suppliers, community, and the environment. Rupert Symington said, “B Corp is a particularly exciting departure for us as it … involves our staff as well as the community around us and obliges us to make continuous improvements”.
Part 2: Advances in Sustainability
In many ways, the movement to sustainable agriculture around the world has be led by winegrowers and winemakers. Below are examples of innovative efforts in California, Argentina, and Italy.
A pioneer in California’s sustainability movement, since 1985, the Benziger family has farmed their vineyards (and purchased fruit) to certified sustainable, organic and biodynamic standards. Biodiversity – with beneficial animals, gardens – plays a key role in the success of the state. Their full flavored 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) shows organic wines can be good and affordable. From their biodynamic Sonoma Mountain Estate, the 2016 Signaterra Cabernet Sauvignon “Sunny Slope Vineyard” ($59) displays the deep fruit and firm palate worthy of its price.
Also in 1985, Spottswoode Estate Winery became the first organically farmed vineyard in Napa Valley. Since then, Spottswoode has emerged as a social and environmental leader, while rising to the top tier of the wine world. Recognizing the systemic nature of sustainability and the challenges of climate change, their estate emphasizes certified biodynamic vineyards and cultivates biodiversity with native cover crops, fruit trees, farm animals, bees and birds. And sustainability extends to business practices as Spottswoode is a certified B Corp, a member of 1% for the Planet, and utilizes solar power for most winery and vineyard operations.
Try the pure citrus, mineral and herbal character of the 2019 Sauvignon Blanc ($42) represents beautifully. It is one of California’s best.
Since 2004, JONATA Estate in Ballard Canyon within the Santa Ynez Valley of Santa Barbara, has practiced a form of sustainable farming they call “polyface”. This practice integrates and revolves livestock animals around the ranch to enhance soil health and promote the natural ecosystem. The 2017 Todos “Everyone” Red Wine Vineyard Blend ($50), combines Bordeaux and Rhone varieties (syrah, cabernet sauvignon, petit sirah, petit verdot, merlot, cabernet franc) to dramatic, full-bodied effect.
Bouchaine Vineyards, established in 1981, is one of Carneros’ founding wineries. A leader of sustainable viticulture, this family-owned property was the first winery to receive Fish Friendly Certification (2004) and also is Napa Green Certified for both vineyards and winery. With the cooling influence of the proximate San Pablo Bay, Carneros has become known for fine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Bouchaine’s 2018 Estate Pinot Meunier (from the lesser known grape of Champagne) is bright and fresh with strawberry and pomegranate, hint of savory, earthy mushrooms, and cinnamon.
O’Neill Vintners & Distillers, through its Paso Robles-based Robert Hall Winery has initiated a study of regenerative viticulture. It is a comparative trial to learn about regenerative farming with organic and biodynamic farming techniques, comparing the results with conventionally farmed vineyards. An interesting feature will be the involvement of biodynamic consultant Philippe Armenier, whose family’s highly regarded Domaine de Marcoux was a pioneer of biodynamics in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. “While biodynamic and organic farming are age old practices, we want to examine the effectiveness of carbon sequestration through regenerative farming practices, along with quality and cost determinations,” says Founder and CEO Jeff O’Neill.
While awaiting the results, enjoy the well fruited 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) with its red currant balanced with friendly tannins and spicy herbal notes.
Of course, as noted above, the movement to sustainable agriculture has spread around the world. In the dry growing conditions of Argentina, organic viticulture is especially attractive.
Argentina’s largest exporter of organically grown wines, Domaine Bousquet produces those certified organically grown wines from the high-altitude Tupungato zone in Mendoza’s Uco Valley. Its Sparkling Rosé ($13), a delightful three-quarters pinot noir, one-quarter chardonnay blend, is a fantastic value. Made using the Charmat method, this bubbly offers delightfully juicy cherry and strawberry with a hint of toast and creaminess, finishing lively and tangy.
Italy also is experiencing widespread interest in sustainable winegrowing. For a country where wine has been made for around 2000 years, this might be a little bit “back to the future”. Wine has been made at what is now known as Badia a Coltibuono for nearly a thousand years. All of its estate grapes are now organically grown. And Badia is one of the leading advocates of organic farming in Tuscany. A good introduction is the abundant 2019 “Colmaia” Sangiovese ($13), released under the Cultusboni label, which is a line of everyday, affordable wines.
Sustainability also is growing in importance in Sicily. A leader in sustainable winegrowing, the Tasca d’Almerita estates are known for their commitment to the “SOStain” protocol for water conservation, carbon reduction, lighter bottle weights, biodiversity, energy saving and farmer health.
The family’s Tenuta Tascante (founded in 2007) with vineyards planted in the rich volcanic soils on the northern side of Europe’s tallest active volcano, Mount Etna focuses production predominantly on native varietals like the nerello mascalese of its 2017 Ghiaia Nera Etna Rosso ($21), which bursts with red fruits followed by hints of minerals.
NOTE: Featured image courtesy of Spottswoode Vineyard