Recent vintages confirm that Pinot Noir wines from the West Coast continue to shine in regions with a proximity to a river or the Pacific Ocean. Whether Oregon, northern California or California’s Central Coast, unlike years past, there are many fine choices up and down the Pacific Coast.
When serious commercial winegrape growing began in Oregon’s Willamette Valley in 1966, few had an idea the region would become a world class Pinot Noir producer. A late comer by comparison (1987), Argyle makes Oregon’s best sparkling wines, is a leader in sustainable viticulture, and a top Pinot Noir producer. Its 2018 Reserve ($40) brings bright fruit, with tea and spice in a sleek texture.
The Anderson Valley in Mendocino County, with its rugged landscape and ocean influences, has proven hospitable for the pinot noir grape. Goldeneye, established by premier Napa Valley winery Duckhorn, produces wines of fine energy, yet elegance, and savory nuances. The top-of-the-line “Ten Degrees” (2017, $130) blends its best batches to ripe toasty, spicy, powerful effect. Of the four estate vineyard wines, the Gowan Creek Vineyard (2017, $86) is big, rich, herbal, and enticingly chocolatey.
Occupying the center of Sonoma County, the Russian River Valley is one of the world’s best sources of great Pinot Noir wines. EnRoute, founded by respected Napa winery Far Niente, sources grapes from top vineyards throughout the valley for the deep, rich, savory “Les Pommiers” (2018, $60). Emeritus sources from estate vineyards, including the prestigious Hallberg Ranch. Its juicy, herbal, rich but elegant 2017 Wesley’s Reserve ($75) is a special selection from the vineyard. Gary Farrell has excelled at single vineyard Pinot Noir for nearly forty years. These two 2017s ($65) – intense, layered Bacigalupi and wonderfully persistent, finely structured Martaella – express the signature style of fresh red fruit, natural acidity, and appealing earthiness.
Close to the Pacific in the western reaches of Sonoma County, the Sonoma Coast has emerged to rival the Russian River Valley. Ram’s Gate, from its home base in Carneros, produced a lush, intense, spicy 2018 Sonoma Coast ($48). MacRostie, a pioneer in the Sonoma Coast for three decades, produced a weighty, juicy and nicely oaky 2018 Wildcat Mountain Vineyard ($58).
Straddling the cool southern reaches of Sonoma and Napa counties, Carneros has transformed from dairy ranches to prime vineyard land over the last fifty years. Bouchaine, whose estate vineyard has been in operation since 1880, has yielded a freshly earthy, sleek 2018, ($35).
The Central Coast appellation of Cienega Valley in San Benito County has historically sourced large production wineries. But a corner of the Gavilan Mountains is thankfully different. The high-altitude vineyards of Calera – the only winery in the Mt. Harlan sub-appellation – have become legendary for Pinot Noir. And the 2017’s are exemplary.
- Reed ($75) abundant, intense, focused, meaty, supple, graceful
- Selleck ($100) succulent, firm, gravelly, forest, anise
- Ryan ($75) juicy, meaty, dense, exotic spices, elegant
- de Villiers ($75) resolute, broody, tea, meaty, toasted cream
- Jensen ($100) elegant, juicy, earthy, spicy, stone
- Mills ($75) bright, earthy, spicy, saline, silky
Grapes have been grown in the foothills of the Gavilan Mountains where Eden Rift sits today since 1849. The winery makes several 2018s that are candidates for development in the bottle. The Estate ($48) is rich, velvety, and herbal. The Terraces ($64), a special selection of the estate vineyard, offers extra energy and bright fruit. The Reserve ($72) sends a streak of red fruits and wild herbs on a luscious palate.
NOTE: Featured image courtesy of Calera Vineyards