Scents and tastes of lemon and apple and sometimes peach, pear, nectarine, or apricot, and even topical fruits. A lush, often creamy texture that unfolds across the palate. Fresh, lingering impressions as the wine finishes. It’s no wonder Chardonnay is the most popular white wine in America. And here are several examples why.
In recent years, the Russian River Valley of Sonoma County has emerged as arguably the best source of Chardonnay outside of Burgundy. Gary Farrell Winery has been one of the appellation’s premier producers for nearly forty years and their Chardonnays are emblematic expressions of the region. My favorite wine from a recent tasting was the 2017 Rochioli Vineyard ($65), a historic site that yielded a rich, robust wine with toasty, savory notes, and a juicy freshness. The 2017 Ritchie Vineyard ($60), from a fifty-year-old planting is a structured, potent and concentrated wine, with a broad palate.
Another impressive wine from my tasting was the 2018 Ram’s Gate El Diablo Vineyard ($70), from a slope of gravel and sandy loam near the river, shows elegance as its hallmark, with lush, vibrant texture and hints of caramel.
While Napa Valley is best known for amazing Cabernet Sauvignon, it also produces fine Chardonnay. The 2018 Far Niente Napa Valley ($70), from a winery founded in 1885 and has produced one of Napa’s most sought after Chardonnay’s since 1979. The estate vineyard in cool Coombsville in southern Napa has produced a rich, juicy, oaky wine that maintains a balancing structure, with savory, toasty elements.
A counterpoint to Far Niente’s valley floor influences, the 2017 Smith Madrone Spring Mountain District ($40), from a dry farmed, mountain grown estate vineyard, shows light oak notes preceding intense, tangy fruit, a touch of almond and a graceful palate. A fabulous value.
California’s Central Coast also source fine Chardonnays. And I discovered excellent wines from an unexpected area in the Central Coast in San Benito County about forty miles inland from the coast. The 2018 Calera ($55), from the legendary Pinot Noir producer in the Mountain Harlan appellation, offers impressive notes of honey, toast, chalky minerality, in a rich but elegant texture.
Nearby, Eden Rift Vineyards has produced striking 2018s. The Estate ($42) presents somewhat spiced and saline elements offset with honeyed, nutty components. The Reserve ($64) steps up with buttery, nutty, light butterscotch, and a focused, yet opulent texture. My favorite, the Terraces ($54), intrigues with light mint, hints of oak, limestone, and almonds, and a bright structure.
While Oregon has gained worldwide attention over the last few decades for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay also deserves attention, As proven by the 2018 Archery Summit Eola-Amity Hills ($48) with its brisk mouthfeel and toasty, savory accents, and polished texture. And the 2017 Argyle Willamette Valley Reserve ($35) for its complex sweet green herb and baking spice balanced with concentrated fruit and creamy texture.
NOTE: Featured image (Mountain Vineyard Terraces) courtesy of Eden Rift Vineyards