Recently, Rosé has found wide acceptance with the American consumer. Wine industry publications report double-digit growth in the category and even triple digit growth in some price ranges. And what better time to join the parade than during the heat of summer?
I’m glad to see this popularity focused on dry (or off-dry) wines modeled after European styles, not the heavily marketed, sweet “blush” wines that have been popular for years. A variety of red grapes are used and the best wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. Expect a flavor profile similar to their red siblings, while they drink more like white wines. Anticipate a profile with a range of bright red and citrus fruits (strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon).
Because of their vibrant freshness and lively fruit, pink wines are almost always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available. Note, all wines here are 2020 vintage, unless otherwise stated.
Among Rosé devotees, France is a prime source and southern France even more so. Rosé from Côtes de Provence (made mostly from grenache) is especially popular. My recommended wines generally exhibited delicate, fresh red berries, crisp citrus fruits, juicy freshness, and a suggestion of creaminess.
Domaines Ott, whose vineyards overlook the Mediterranean, is a Rosé specialist with a 125-year history. Its Clos Mireille ($58) single vineyard wine is farmed specifically for Rosé and includes cinsault, syrah and the white grape rolle (AKA vermentino). It justifies its price with tangy fruit, citrus, mineral, saline, and solid, though elegant body. The winery’s By.OTT ($26) is a blend from estate and local vineyards showing delicate peach, melon, and light spice.
Domaine Cala, owned by Los Angeles Chef Joachim Splichal, has produced a savory Coteaux Varois en Provence ($18) with tart red currant, peach, stone, and spice.
Spain gets into the act with an entry from the influential Torres family, with a viticultural history in Penedes (the most important wine growing region in Catalunya, near Barcelona). The Sangre de Toro ($15) is a mainly a blend of garnacha and cariñena, showing delicate, fresh raspberry and red currant. From Portugal, Herdade de São Miguel’s Colheita Seleccionada ($15) blends touriga nacional, aragonez, and syrah from the Alentejo region in southern Portugal, for a nice tart cherry-strawberry mix.
Most of the Rosés in my tasting were from Italy (where it typically is labeled Rosato).
From the Veneto, the Tenuta Sant’Antonio winery (a well-known maker of Valpolicella and Soave) also produces fresh, focused wines from local and international varieties under the Scaia label. The Scaia Rosato ($13), from the native rondinella, is lively and juicy, fresh and focused.
From the Marche, the 150 year-old Garofoli farms montepulciano specifically to make Kómaros ($14), a crisp Rosato with citrus, mineral and a hint of sweetness.
Masseria Li Veli in Puglia is notable for its work to restore historic properties, emphasize local varieties and practice sustainable farming. Its “Primerose” ($13), made from negroamaro, is brisk, with strawberry, raspberry, and spice, and a fine value. I especially enjoyed the fresh, juicy, creamy Susumaniello ($21). This is an ancient indigenous Puglian variety among several that has been resurrected through the “ASKOS” project.
From Sicily, Poggio Anima’s “Raphael” ($15) blends the ancient, rare zibibbo (AKA the aromatic grape muscat of Alexandria) with syrah from two vineyards overlooking the sea. It’s firm and herb-tinged with red berries and tangerine. From Planeta, a family that has farmed in Sicily for five centuries, the nero d’avola and syrah of its Rosé ($19) presents spicy red berries and citrus.
Let me close with a special outlier: Germany’s Villa Wolf Pinot Noir ($14) with its bright cherry, fresh raspberry, and mineral notes. This estate in the lesser-known Pfalz region dates to 1756 and now is managed by the Mosel’s esteemed Dr. Loosen.