During summer’s warm months, cold white wines provide welcome tonic. Add the refreshing bubbles of sparkling wine and you have the ideal summer drink.
Champagne is the standard for sparkling wine. This is primarily because of the “Champagne Method” (méthode champenoise) of double fermentation in the bottle to create the bubbles. But Champagne is expensive. Happily, there are more affordable Champagne method (also described as the “classic method” or “traditional method”) wines that offer comparable quality.
In France, there is crémant, bubbly from other regions. I particularly like Crémant d’Alsace. A region better known for amazing rieslings and gewurztraminers, its crémant more often uses the classic Champagne varieties – pinot noir and chardonnay – though pinot blanc, pinot gris and riesling may make it into some blends.
But it is in the north of Italy where you can find truly exceptional Champagne alternatives. Italy uses the term “metodo classico”. For a country with countless indigenous varieties, these wines typically made with only chardonnay (occasionally pinot bianco) and pinot nero (pinot noir). Here I offer examples of Franciacorta (in Lombardia south of Lake Iseo about 60 miles east of Milano) and Trentodoc (in Trentino north of Lake Garda and about 140 miles northeast of Milano). Another fine source, Alta Langa (from Piemonte), was not represented in this tasting.
Some would argue that Franciacorta is the best metodo classico. The zone benefits from warm days that ripen the fruit with cool nights that maintain freshness, thanks to the moderating influence of the lake. Mineral rich soils impart a zesty, forward character to the fruit resulting in a notable elegance.
Others would argue the best Italian bubbly is Trentodoc located in the adjacent Trentino-Alto Adige appellation to the northeast, also devoted exclusively to metodo classico and the same Champagne grapes. With its high altitude vineyards near the Dolomite mountains, its higher elevations, diurnal temperature variations, and limestone soils typically yield crisp, bracing yet graceful wines.
Prosecco, that foamy, fruity northeastern Italian wine from the native glera grape, has vaulted in popularity in recent years. Produced in the area north of Venice around the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, it is the traditional base for the famous Bellini.
In Spain, sparkling wine is all about Cava, another go-to for wallet-friendly bubbles. It is typically produced by the traditional method with the indigenous grapes macabeo, xarel-lo, and parellada in the Penedès region not far from Barcelona.
Crémant d’Alsace
- Domaine Christophe Mittnacht “Terres d’étoiles” Extra Brut ($25) certified biodynamic, majority pinot auxerrois, with pinot blanc, riesling, pinot gris, pinot noir; elegant, intriguing saline and dry sherry notes
- Camille Braun Brut ($28) organically and biodynamically farmed, mostly pinot blanc with auxerrois; salty pear and grapefruit
- Jean-Baptiste Adam Brut Rosé ($25) 100 percent pinot noir, buttery brioche, strawberry, apple, brisk cherry, citrus
Franciacorta
- 2015 Ca’ del Bosco Vintage Collection Dosage Zero ($80) bone-dry, impressively rich yet elegant and fresh, enticing baked bread, tangy yet creamy, ripe pear, apple and melon, mineral finish
- Villa Crespia “Brolese” Extra Brut Rosé ($40) from the Brolese sub-area; toasty, crisp citrus and cherry, elegant
- Lo Sparviere “Satèn” ($25) Satèn is a style of lower pressure leading to softer bubbles; 100 percent chardonnay, fresh yet smoothly silky
Trentodoc
- Casata Monfort Rosé ($40) vibrant apple, grapefruit, strawberry, toasty, creamy
- 2015 Rotari Platinum Label Brut ($20) all chardonnay, lemon, grapefruit, fennel
Prosecco
- Zardetto Brut ($17) sourced from various vineyards northeast of the town of Conegliano; fruity citrus, apricot and tropical fruit accented with flowery notes
Cava
- Segura Viudas’ Reserva Heredad ($30) the producer’s crown jewel (thus a little more expensive than most Cava), blended from macabeo and parellada, a fine example of what extra attention like aging on the lees – in this case, added richness, but with elegance – can accomplish