There is an incredible diversity of wine grape varieties grown in the Mediterranean countries offering a rich diversity of taste experiences. This column focuses on lesser known grapes in southern France, Spain and Portugal. Here are but a handful that deserve your attention.
RHÔNE VALLEY
While the Rhône Valley is best known for its amazing red wines, its white wines should not be overlooked. If you’ve been intrigued by American wines labeled Viognier or described as “Rhône-style”, check out the origins of these fascinating, even exotic wines.
Of particular note are the Côtes-du-Rhône Crus of the Northern Rhône. A Cru is a specifically delineated geographic area around a village whose wines are noted for high quality and distinctiveness.
Hermitage Blanc arguably is the most prestigious. The 2017 Barruol Lynch “La Pierrelle” ($99) is blended by importer Kermit Lynch in collaboration with Sarrual Barruol, a producer with an over 400 year history in the region. It is mostly marsanne with roussanne showing a complex of focused citrus, tropical and stone fruits with hazelnuts, an intriguing minerality and a honeyed, creamy palate.
And the tiny appellation of Condrieu is the ancestral home of viognier, which has grown in popularity around the world in recent years. But nowhere will you find an expression of the grape with such freshness and tautness in balance with the naturally luxurious texture. And the 100 percent viognier 2018 E. Guigal ($65) is a fine example, dramatically aromatic and flavored with citrus and stone fruit while notes of ginger, honey, and minerality add complexity to the rich texture.
Not as well-known as Hermitage or Condrieu, wines from nearby Saint-Péray, a white wine only appellation, can be nearly as impressive, particularly in the hands of a top producer such as Domaine A. Clape, a family with 250 years as growers in southern France. Also mostly marsanne with roussanne, this wine(2019, $78) is graceful and elegant, with pure citrus and stone fruit accented with spice and licorice.
In the Southern Rhône, the quality of the Lirac Côtes du Rhône Cru (an appellation in proximity to Châteauneuf-du-Pape) is reflected in the 2019 Domaine de la Mordorée “La Reine des Bois” ($36). From a producer known for organic and biodynamic farming, it is made up of equal parts grenache blanc, viognier, and roussane, it is attractively floral and fruity, suggesting citrus and stone fruit with stony notes and a creamy texture.
Also in the Southern Rhône, the village of Beaumes-de-Venise sources the 2016 Domaine de Durban “Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise” ($27). Produced only from muscat blanc à petits grains grapes, and fortified with neutral spirits like Port, it is designated “vin doux naturel” (naturally sweet wine). At 15% alcohol, it defines freshness and finesse with concentration.
While a simple Côtes-du-Rhône label indicates a good value entry level wine, Côtes-du-Rhône Villages means the wine comes from one of twenty-one specifically designated villages known for higher quality. And the 2018 Domaine Pélaquié “Laudun” ($17) is a named Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Cru made with viognier, grenache blanc, clairette, roussane, marsanne, and bourboulenc. From a certified sustainable, family-run estate (since the 16th century), it is a fine value showing ripe fruit, medium body and a rounded palate.
Spain and Portugal have long been reliable sources of fine value wines. With many indigenous grapes, the variety of tastes and styles only adds to their appeal. For proof, check out the white wines below.
PORTUGAL
Northern Portugal’s Vinho Verde (Green Wine) is notable for distinctively light, refreshing, low alcohol wines. Alvarinho is the predominant variety, though other native grapes are used. The wines below are fresh and fruity, brisk (sometimes even spritzy) (including arinto and loureiro) yet harmonious. Wonderful for casual drinking, versatile with food and generally best enjoyed young.
- 2019 Campelo ($10) a good introduction, crisp citrus, apple and orange with a tingle on the tongue and hint of sweetness
- 2020 Quinta da Lixa “Aromas das Castas” Grande Escolha ($10) even better with lively, tangy orange and apple with a touch of earth
- 2020 Esporão “Bico Amarelo” ($12) fine fresh, elegant apple, lime, honey and herb
- 2020 Quinta da Raza Grande Escolha ($17) another step up for its fresh, focused citrus, pear and minerals
- 2020 Esporao “Quinta do Ameal” ($17) excellent, from loureiro grapes with vibrant pear, mineral, and hints at richness
- 2017 Quinta do Louridal “Poema” Riserva ($18) a rare example of an aged Vinho Verde; displays some complexity with ripe pear and honey in a fairly full frame
Cockburn’s Porto Branco “Fine White Port” ($15) is fortified like red Port. At 19 percent alcohol, it offers hints of almond, lemon, pear, caramel, and vanilla. It is sweet, full-bodied with a creamy texture palate, and is delightful chilled as an aperitif or in cocktails.
SPAIN
Another fortified wine worth exploring is Spanish Sherry. Predominantly made from native palomino grapes and best drunk cold, Sherry comes in several styles.
The most food friendly is “fino,” the lightest, driest (as it is fermented and aged under protective layer of yeast – called “flor” – that forms on top of the wine) and lowest alcohol (usually 15 percent). A special kind of fino called “manzanilla” is made only around the coastal town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda where producers such as Emilio Lustau produce especially delicate, expressive wines from native palomino grapes such as Lustau’s “Papirusa” ($18) with citrus, almond, mineral and saline reminiscent of sea breeze.
At the other end of the spectrum, the Valdespino “El Candado” ($26) is a rare, sweet, rich dessert wine. With 100% Pedro Ximenez grapes aged for 10 to 12 years and 17 percent alcohol, its syrupy texture is nicely balanced with lively acidity and flavors of molasses, black walnut, raisins, dates and caramel. Drink as dessert or even better, over vanilla ice cream.
Williams & Humbert “Dos Cortados” Solera Especial 20 Anos Rare Old Dry ($50) is an even rarer style, a Palo Cortado that begins life as a fino but evolves more pungent, intense and complex aromas and a richer, more concentrated palate. At 21.5% alcohol, it displays nuts, dried fruits, citrus, ginger, caramel, with lively acidity, yet creamy finesse.
Beyond Sherry, Spanish white wines usually don’t get anywhere near the respect of Spanish red wines. But wines from albariño in the Rias Baixas area of Galicia and verdejo from the Castilla y Leon region in central Spain deserve consumer attention. While I didn’t have any such wines in my tastings, I did have one impressive wine from godello, a very rare grape now enjoying a revival of interest.
Though at a high price point, the 2018 Alvaredos-Hobbs Godello ($50) is emblematic. This is a new venture by Sonoma-based winemaker Paul Hobbs (who has similar partnerships around the world, this time with Antonio Lopez, a sixth-generation Spanish vintner) focused on production of native varieties planted in the Ribeira Sacra region in Galicia in northwestern Spain. From this rare but interesting grape, the wine is impressive and expressive of honeyed peach, citrus, and ginger, with floral notes, and hints of white pepper. It drinks with finesse and bright acidity.