Sicily is not your average warm climate wine growing region. As with other such regions, Sicily offers a rich fruit profile in both red and white wines. But there are a broad array of soils, terroirs and climates around the island (including Mt. Etna, Italy’s largest active volcano) leading to a similarly wide variety of vinous representations of the island.
The Phoenicians introduced winemaking on the island around the 10th century BCE.
And its central location in Mediterranean has made it a crossroads for many seafaring cultures, including Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans and several others.
Over many generations, winegrowers integrated these influences with an emphasis on the island’s indigenous varieties, like neighboring Italy. To date, more than 60 varieties are grown in Sicily, of which about 20 are indigenous. Still, Sicilian wines were not well known internationally.
That has changed over the last few decades as the quality and reputation of Sicilian wines has improved and consumer interest in different grape varieties has increased. And now Sicilia DOC, an organization representing over 450 local wineries devoted to preserving Sicily’s indigenous grape varieties and sharing the island’s rich winemaking culture and distinctive terroir. Sicilia DOC governs rules for quality among a range of varieties and styles. And another designation, Etna DOC, is an indicator of viticultural protection and a guarantee of quality for wines produced from around Mount Etna.
And Sicily has become a leader in sustainability. SOStain (protocol for water conservation, carbon reduction, lighter bottle weights, biodiversity, energy saving and farmer health), ban on chemical herbicides, emphasis on energy efficiency, eco-friendly materials, commitment to biodiversity, limit on bottle weights.
This column focuses on the leading red grapes; a future column will highlight white grapes. Nero d’Avola is the most prominent and widely planted. Its expressions range from robust and spicy to suave and velvety, elegant and supple to unctuous and earthy, usually with fresh and juicy red fruits.
Nerello Mascalese is especially well suited to the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna. Enticing for its fresh, red berries and herbaceous nuances, it mimics the firmness of sangiovese and the fruit of pinot noir.
Frappato tends to be exuberantly fruity, floral and light with a wiry, yet glossy character.. It is sometimes blended with nero d’Avola to deepen its character.
The Sicilia DOC rules also allow certain French varieties, which pays off nicely with the Syrah recommended below.
The Wines:
Nero d’Avola
2019 Donnafugata “Sherazade” ($22) juicy blackberry, plum, herbs, olive, smooth
2018 Corvo “Colomba Platino” ($18) bright, crisp cherry, raspberry, herbs, soft
2019 Alessandro di Camporeale “Donnatà” ($20) dark and red berries, earth, herbs, easygoing
2016 Ermes “Epicentro” Riserva ($18) dark notes, char, concentrated, fresh
2019 Ermes “Quattro Quarti” Appassimento ($18) jammy, rounded, soft
Nerello Mascalese
2018 Donnafugata “Sul Vulcano” Etna Rosso ($35) tangy cherry, currant, smoky, herbs
Frappato
2020 Valle dell’Acate “Il Frappato” ($23) lively, red berries, earth, olive, elegant,
2020 Mandrarossa “Costadune” ($18) bright, deep raspberry, pomegranate, herbs
Blends
2016 Regaleali “Rosso del Conte” ($70) nearly equal parts nero d’Avola and perricone, justifies its price with concentrated red and black fruits, olive, fennel, and rich structure
2018 Santo Spirito “aMarAnto” ($20) equal parts frappato and nero d’Avola, elegant, floral, red berries
French Varieties
2017 Rapitalà “Nadir” Syrah ($20) bold black fruit, black pepper, savory, round