Ever since I became fascinated with wine over forty years ago, Portugal has been foundational source of captivating tastes AND fine values. Luckily that continues today even with (or maybe in spite of) the increasing prices that generally come with improving quality.
While the wines of the Douro in the north receive the most attention, at least partly because of its association with the iconic Port dessert wine, the wines of the Alentejo (al-en-tey-zhu) – about an hour from Lisbon – have emerged recently. The wines offer a mix of originality, discovery, and sustainability. With growing consumer interest in native grapes, blends, and traditional winemaking methods (amphora-large clay pots, a tradition in Alentejo for over 2,000 years; concrete casks; lagares-large stone vats for foot trodding,) now is the time to discover these wines.
Further, Alentejo is one of the world’s most advanced wine regions when it comes to sustainability. The Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Program (WASP) incorporates viticulture and vinification practices, efforts to reduce costs and increase economic viability, and addresses environmental and social concerns, with the goal of improving the social, environmental, and economic welfare throughout the region. WASP members account for nearly 50% of Alentejo’s vineyard area and each of the wineries showcased here.
The following are blends of almost exclusively native grapes, examples of the quality and value you can expect from Alentejo.
Herdade do Esporão, has grown since its founding in 1973 to be the Alentejo’s largest wine producer while being a driving force behind its revitalized wine industry in the past 30 years. Its vineyards are certified organic.
Its fine values begin with the entry level blends: 2018 Colheita Red ($18) touriga nacional, aragonez, touriga franca, cabernet sauvignon, alicante bouschet; fruit forward, easy drinking; 2020 Colheita White ($18) antão vaz, viosinho, alvarinho; juicy orange and yellow citrus
And they continue with the Reserva wines: 2018 Red ($25) – aragonez, alicante bouschet, cabernet sauvignon, trincadeira, touriga nacional, touriga franca, syrah; solid, energetic, intense; 2020 White ($20) – antão vaz, roupeiro, arinto; vibrant, direct, fruity
2018 Cartuxa EA Red ($9) known for producing cult-status wines; run by a philanthropic foundation dedicated to supporting the region’s neediest and preserving its heritage; trincadeira, aragonez, alicante bouschet, syrah; bright, bold, smooth; talk about value!
2018 CARMIM Monsaraz Reserva Tinto ($16) fifty-year-old growers cooperative in the Reguengos de Monsaraz sub-area; alicante bouschet, trincadeira and touriga nacional; excellent berry fruit, solid structure, balanced
2019 Herdade do Rocim Amphora Vinho Tinto ($18) fermented with indigenous yeasts in amphora with no temperature control; moreto, tinta grossa, trincadeira, aragonez; intriguing tangy fruit, hint of earth, bitter herb, round texture, slightly spicy finish