West Coast Pinot Noir, specifically Oregon and California, is one of the few examples I can think of where we find quantity and quality existing together. The catch, not surprisingly, is prices have escalated rather aggressively. Still, I have found several good values, another benefit of quantity and quality increasing together,
Because pinot noir is especially transparent of the site in which it is grown, many wineries’ most expensive wines are single vineyard expressions. This post begins with consideration of such wines, all over $50.
Each wine reflects the grape’s signature characteristics of red berry (especially cherry) fruit, though dark fruits peak in occasionally. Earthy, mushroom, herbal and even floral, mint or anise notes also appear. Creaminess and baking spices from oak add complexity.
But there are regional differences, and differences even within regions and vineyards, as suggested above. Buy a couple from each region and make your own comparisons!
Oregon’s Willamette Valley, whose Coast Range moderates the cooling Pacific Ocean and Cascade Mountains chill the desert heat of Eastern Oregon, has become Pinot Noir nirvana.
2018 Archery Summit Dundee Hills ($65) vibrant, generous, tea, cocoa, solid
2019 Argyle Nuthouse ($55) bright, supple, refined, elegant, silky finish, fine tannins
2015 Fiddlehead Oldsville ($60) round, firm, rich, complex
Mendocino County’s remote Anderson Valley, heavily influenced by the nearby Pacific Coast, is becoming known for wines of power, focus and nuance.
2018 Goldeneye Gowan Creek ($88) ripe, precise, mineral, spiced, rich
2019 FEL Savoy Vineyard ($75) elegant concentrated, focused toasty oak, spice
The Sonoma Coast is too large to generalize attributes except to say most vineyards experience extremely cool Pacific winds and fog.
2018 Emeritus Pinot Hill East ($75) fresh, ripe, peppery, seamless, elegant
The Russian River Valley area winds through Sonoma cooling temperatures ensuring long ripening seasons.
2019 Ladera Pillow Road Vineyard ($66) bright, savory, cola, silky
2019 Davis Bynum Dutton Ranches ($58) juicy, mildly smoky, solid structure
2019 MacRostie Thale’s Vineyard ($58) bursting with fruit, aromatic, firm
Straddling southern Napa and Sonoma, Carneros is mostly distinguished by the cooling influences of the San Pablo Bay and Pacific Ocean.
2019 Ram’s Gate Estate Vineyard ($85) lively, mineral notes, concentrated, lingering
2019 Cuvaison Mariafeld ($60) juicy, cocoa, anise, luscious, lively, richly structured
2019 Cuvaison Adda ($80) powerful, bold, bright, concentrated, rich
California’s Central Coast has several areas producing fine Pinot Noir. But most people likely wouldn’t know that San Benito County sources some of the state’s finest Pinots, namely the age worthy Pinots of Calera in the Mt. Harlan appellation.
2018 Reed Vineyard ($80) intense, earthy, woodsy, smoky, polished, silky
2018 Mills Vineyard ($80) rich, complex, bracing, savory, seamless
The Santa Maria Valley also is heavily influenced by the Pacific Ocean. In northern Santa Barbara County, its transverse (east-west) orientation funnels cooling breezes and fog.
2018 Migration Bien Nacido Vineyard ($77) exuberant, bright, briary, sleek
The Sta. Rita Hills, another transverse valley, in southern Santa Barbara increasingly is highly prized for Pinot Noir.
2019 Alma Rosa Rancho La Viña ($68) deep, juicy, lush, complex, rich, savory
2019 Alma Rosa Radian ($68) bracing, succulent, complex, toasty, mineral, seamless
2014 Fiddlehead Lollapaooza ($80) ripe, floral, sturdy toasty, cinnamon, elegant
Pinot Noir Values – Yes, there is such a thing !
The wines below, while not inexpensive by any means (priced under $50), are less so than the ones above, mainly as they are blends of various sites.
They may not display the uniqueness of single vineyard bottlings. They are likely to be made from younger vines whose grapes may yield slightly less complexity (though, not always). But, while their more expensive siblings are expressive of a single site, these wines are more a representation of the broader appellation.
Again, I have organized my recommendations by appellation and listed the wines in order of my preference within each appellation. Collectively, they are a cornucopia of inviting, reasonably affordable wines.
Willamette Valley
2019 Cristom Mt. Jefferson Cuvée ($31) organic, biodynamic, dark fruit, fine tannins
2019 Dobbes Grand Assemblage ($32) juicy red fruit, baking spice, earthy, elegant
Anderson Valley
2020 FEL ($42) red fruit, spicy herbs, firm
Sonoma Coast
2019 Migration Sonoma Coast ($44) bright red fruit, cinnamon, anise
2019 Landmark Grand Detour ($35) bold red fruit, earthy, black licorice, velvety
Russian River Valley
2019 Gary Farrell Russian River Selection ($45) lively red fruit, pure, forest, spice rich,
2020 Raeburn ($25) red fruit, baking spice, toasty vanilla
Carneros
2019 Bouchaine Estate ($40) dark fruit, toasted oak, sweet spice
Santa Lucia Highlands
2019 Hahn ($30) dark fruit, earth, toasted oak
Arroyo Seco
2019 J. Lohr Fog’s Reach ($35) red fruit, Asian spice, rich
2019 Hahn Appellation Series ($25) spicy red fruit, creamy, sleek
Sta. Rita Hills
2015 Fiddlehead Cellars Seven Twenty Eight ($46) extra aging yields nuanced complexity and integrated qualities but also enough red fruit and structure to develop
2019 The Hilt Estate ($50) deep red fruit, aromatic, spicy, fresh
Multi-appellation
2019 Calera Central Coast ($32) vibrant red fruit, juicy, anise, firm
2020 One Hope Monterey County ($40) red fruit, anise, earthy, lush
2019 Landmark Overlook ($27) vibrant red berry, vanilla, cinnamon, toast
2020 Chamisal San Louis Obispo County ($24) tart red fruit, earthy mushroom
2019 Erath Oregon ($20) red fruit, savory, earthy
2019 Banshee Sonoma County ($28) red fruit, tangy, forest, light oak, herbal
2019 Charles Woodson’s Intercept Monterey County ($20) tart red fruit, spicy finish
NOTE: Featured image courtesy of Camera Vineyards