Despite the increased popularity of Pinot Noir and growing interest in lesser known grape varieties (especially among younger consumers), California Cabernet Sauvignon continues to be the most popular red wine in this country. Not surprisingly, it is the most widely grown grape in the state. (“California Grape Acreage Report 2021 Crop”, California Department of Food and Agriculture, April 2022)
It’s ability to produce wines of deep flavor, complexity, and an ability to improve with age is a winning profile. Thus, its wines often are 100% cabernet sauvignon but many producers follow the Bordeaux benchmark of adding percentages of other traditional varieties – merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, or petit verdot – to fill out the wine. This harmonizes aromas, flavors, and structure for better balance and complexity.
When most wine consumers think of California Cabernet Sauvignon, they most likely think of Napa Valley. No question prices are high but so is quality. And when compared to top Bordeaux, Napa Cabs of similar quality start to seem like reasonable values. Napa Valley’s generally warmer climate yields Cabs typically known for dark fruit (black currant, cherry, blackberry, plum), olive and herbal notes, noticeable oak, full body, and lush tannins.
Acumen. This organically farmed Atlas Peak estate has consistently improved over its first decade. Its 2019 vintage portfolio is the most impressive yet. The effusive Mountainside ($75), muscular PEAK ($115), ripe, intense PEAK Attelas Vineyard ($145), and expressive, bold PEAK Edcora Vineyard ($165) share a full-bodied, warm fruit character.
Brandlin Estate. 2018 ThS Mount Veeder ($135) a selection of the estate’s best barrels; concentrated, earthy, tobacco, delineated
Cliff Lede. 2019 Round About Midnight Stags Leap District ($110) from two estate vineyard blocks – the Yes song “Roundabout” in their Twin Peaks vineyard and Eric Clapton’s “After Midnight” in their Poetry vineyard; vibrant, juicy, rich, savory, plush
Duckhorn. 2017 Howell Mountain ($105) this was the best of a range of impressive releases from various Napa appellations; ripe, broad, powerful, brooding
Faust. 2019 The Pact Coombsville ($125) from the Faust estate vineyard in southern Napa; fresh, dark fruits, roasted, earthy, structured
Pine Ridge. 2018 Napa Valley ($65) founded in the Stags Leap District in 1978, Pine Ridge now also farms vineyards in Stags Leap District, Howell Mountain, Oakville, Rutherford, and Carneros; this wine is lively, sleek and firm, minty, with fruit compote
C. Elizabeth. 2017 Game Farm Vineyard Oakville ($150) a special wine from a special winery by the owners of Napa’s Goosecross Winery; intense, smooth, integrated flavors of fruit, oak, and stone
Gamble. 2017 Napa Valley ($60) from a major Napa Valley vineyard owner with a family history in the valley over a hundred years; warm berry preserves, mint, toasty, solid, plush
J. Lohr. 2018 Carol’s Vineyard St. Helena ($60) the pioneering Paso Robles producer owns this vineyard in center of the Napa Valley; strong dark fruit, with smoke and pine notes, lush tannins
With all the quality from Napa, it may surprise some to learn that Cabernet Sauvignon from Sonoma County can reach equal quality levels, and usually at lower prices. Sonoma is generally cooler, typically with more day/night temperature variation than Napa, thus its Cabs display a somewhat tighter structure and a juicy freshness that balances richness. This is especially true of wines from Alexander Valley, which are having a moment as more winemakers seek out prime fruit from the area.
Located east of Healdsburg, this region is far enough from the ocean to experience warmer daytime temperatures, enabling grapes to ripen, yet close enough for the Pacific Ocean influences to cool mornings and nights, developing a juicy freshness that balances richness.
Medlock Ames. 2018 Bell Mountain Ranch ($70) organically grown grapes from this estate vineyard that sits at the foothills of the Mayacamas Mountain Range at the southernmost tip of the Alexander Valley overlapping into the Russian River Valley; ripe, lively, elegant, tobacco, chocolate, lively tannins
Stonestreet Estate. 2017 Alexander Valley ($55) high-elevation estate vineyards in the northern Alexander Valley; baked red fruit, herbs, minerals-earthy, structured
Sosie. 2019 Charlie Smith Vineyard Moon Mountain District ($75) organically grown grapes across the Mayacamas Mountain range high above the Sonoma Valley floor; powerful, dark fruit, bright, supple, bold
Jordan. The 2018 Alexander Valley ($60) gets special mention here as the winery is celebrating its 50th anniversary with a series of events, including one in Denver early this June that was particularly special as Tom and Sally Jordan founded this estate in 1972 while living in Denver. Their son John, who has run the winery since 2007, and current winemaker Maggie Kruse were joined by several Denver Broncos and top chefs including Colorado Springs’ Brother Luck for a series of events benefiting Clayton Learning Center.
But the real stars were the Cabs. Over the years they have moved from relying exclusively on estate-grown fruit to partnering with select growers to source grapes from prime locations that allowed them to achieve more elegance and ageability. In addition to some nicely developed older vintages, the current 2018 Alexander Valley ($60) reflects the signature style of approachable elegance with the ability to develop complexity. It is an expressive wine with nicely developed dark fruits, warm spices, and lush but solid tannins.
NOTE: Featured Image courtesy of Sonoma County Winegrowers Association