Chilean Sauvignon Blancs are enjoying a fresh wave interest in the U.S. Chile’s Sauvignon Blancs. Chile’s second most planted grape variety next to Cabernet Sauvignon is well on the way to establishing an equally formidable reputation. Sauvignon Blanc’s modern-day story in Chile begins in the early 1980s when a handful of producers began to explore the promise of coastal regions, with the finest identified with the country’s coastal and cool-climate regions–notably the Valparaíso region, Leyda Valley, Casablanca, Santo Domingo, and San Antonio regions.
These are not standard supermarket Sauvignon Blancs. They are notable for an herbal, citrussy character; striking acidity; stony taste; and a fuller mouthfeel. This coastal style is a more herbal and citrusy expression than other regions. Generally, expect brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) but also other citrus (grapefruit) and occasionally stone fruit and a distinctive (sometimes spicy) herbaceousness.
- 2020 Viña Garcés Silva “Amayana” ($25) estate bottled, Leyda Valley, San Antonio
- 2019 Ventisquero “Grey” ($25) [Glacier] Single Block, Valle de Atacama, Longomilla Vineyard
- 2020 Matetic Vineyards “EQ” ($20) Casablanca, Vinedo Valle Hermosa, estate bottled, organic grapes
- 2020 Casas del Bosque “La Cantera” ($18) Botanic Series, Valle de Casablanca, estate bottled
- 2020 Viña Morandé “Gran Reserva” ($20) Casablanca Valley, single vineyard, fermented in oak
- 2021 Montes “Limited Selection” ($15) Valle de Leyda
- 2021 Viña Tabalí “Talinay” ($24) Valle de Limari
- 2021 Viña Koyle “Costa La Flor” ($18) Organic grapes, vegan, San Antonio
For some reason, it seems California Sauvignon Blanc has often been an afterthought with consumers. Not only does it consistently play second fiddle in popularity to Chardonnay, it seems there is always a new fave that steals consumer’s attention – Pinot Grigio, even New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc – even if only for a limited time.
But that may be changing. Growers and winemakers are taking the grape more seriously and quality has improved even as more offerings are available. And people who watch these kinds of things say consumer interest is ticking up. This is good news as there arguably is more good California Sauvignon Blanc on the market than ever.
And California also is offering more good Sauvignon Blanc values. These tend to be ebullient and spry with the focus on varietal fruit but all display the grape’s trademark refreshing character. Think of them as everyday go-tos.
- 2021 Dry Creek Vineyard “Fumé” Sonoma County ($16) aromatic, juicy, grassy
- 2021 Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County ($22), mouthwatering, assertive, structured
- 2021 Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley ($20) succulent, creamy, spicy
- 2021 J. Lohr “Flume Crossing” Arroyo Seco ($14) lively, forward, herbal
- 2021 Markham Napa Valley ($20) fresh, juicy, tangy
- 2021 Girard Napa Valley ($20) juicy, forward, supple
- 2021 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($22) fresh, ripe, herbal
- 2021 Justin Central Coast ($14) light, brisk
As consumer friendly as these wines are, For a few extra dollars, I found more complexity and flavor interest as prices escalated.
- 2021 Cliff Lede Napa Valley ($28) with semillon and sauvignon vert, fruity, rich, complex, structured, seamless
- 2021 Clockwise Russian River Valley ($30) half sauvignon musque, from MacRostie Winery, tangy, firm, creamy, plush
- 2021 Acumen “Mountainside” ($30) sourced from hillside vineyards, concentrated, rich, sleek, piercing, succulent
- 2021 Duckhorn North Coast ($32) with Semillon, crisp, grassy, sharp
- 2021 Ladera Napa Valley ($36) with sauvignon musque, tangy/sweet, mouthwatering, focused
Some wines are crafted with the use of different fermenting and aging vessels –concrete tanks, oak, stainless steel barrels, and amphorae – along with practices such as lees stirring to build complexity and texture. These wines share a complex profile of bright, ripe fruit, and sophisticated, rich textures. And they are cellar worthy. Notably, each winery below is from the Napa Valley.
- 2020 Quintessa “Illumination” ($50) significant portions of sauvignon musqué and some sémillon, vibrant, elegant, mouthwatering, seamless
- 2020 Cuvaison “Méthode Béton” ($40) Estate Grown Carneros, the “method” is aging on the lees in concrete eggs (bétons), intense, minerally, lush, juicy, structured
- 2019 Acumen “PEAK” ($75) from high altitude Attelas Vineyard on Atlas Peak vineyards, brisk, concentrated, stimulating, fennel, mineral
NOTE: Wines are listed in order of preference within each category but all are recommended.
ALSO NOTE: Featured image is courtesy of Wines of Chile.