ROSÉ IS A FAVORITE SUMMER SIPPER AROUND THE WORLD Dry Rosé has become enormously popular with American consumers. But many only think of it as a summer sipper. With growing production, generally high quality and a wide variety of grapes and styles from around the world, it is time to drink pink wine year-round.
Typically, these wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. Expect a flavor profile similar to their red siblings, while they drink more like white wines. Anticipate a profile with a range of bright red and citrus fruits (strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon). Rosé goes really well with food because it combines some of the fruit and tannin of a red with the acidity and vibrancy of a white wine.
But it can be difficult to decide among the many options. In this column, you will find an introduction to three of the finest sources: France, Italy and California. All wines are 2021 vintage, unless otherwise stated.
Arguably, the most the most sought after French Rosé is Côtes de Provence. Côtes de Provence, especially the area along the Côte d’Azur with dramatic views of the Mediterranean, has a long history with rosé as a prominent drink. The wines are mostly grenache (often with cinsault, syrah or mourvèdre). The following are emblematic of the “Provençal style” of light color, delicate citrusy, apricot/peach flavors with a creamy suggestion.
Domaines Ott 2020 Château de Selle ($55) a benchmark Rosé, this was the best of my tastings; justifies its price with fine fruit (cinsault, grenache syrah and Mourvèdre), supplemented with mineral, saline, and a solid, yet elegant body
Château des Sarrins. Les Sarrins ($25) a collaboration of Bruno Paillard (prestigious Champagne producer) and the Terlato family (leading wine import company); grenache, cinsault, rolle (vermentino) and mourvèdre; hints of citrus, strawberry and raspberry with an earthy finish
Rose Gold. ($20) from Les Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu’île de Saint-Tropez (a female owned and operated winery) ripe berry, hint of lemon, nicely layered blend of six varieties.
A large contingent in my tasting was from Italy (where it typically is labeled Rosato). Here are recommendations that span the length of the peninsula.
Veneto. Scaia ($15) from Tenuta Sant’Antonio (a well-known maker of Valpolicella and Soave) rondinella, lively and juicy, fresh and focused
Marche. Garofoli “Kómaros” ($14) 150-year-old Garofoli farms montepulciano specifically to make Kómaros ($14), crisp with citrus, mineral, juicy
Abruzzo. montepulciano d’Abruzzo; dark, intense, structured
Abruzzo. La Valentina “Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo” ($14) underappreciated region in south-central Italy distinguished with an official Rosato designation of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, made almost exclusively from the local montepulciano grape; darker color, more intensity, and is more structure.
Puglia. Masseria Li Veli “Torresrose” ($15) negroamaro; brisk, strawberry, raspberry, spice; “Susumaniello” ($23) a real winner from the ancient indigenous susumaniello variety; fresh, juicy, creamy
Sicily. 2020 Travaglianti “Etna” ($30) nerello mascalese; nice impact, fresh peach, cherry
California wineries seem to have latched on to pinot noir as the grape of choice for Rosé. At least, most of the wines in my tasting were from pinot noir. This is likely because the grape typically produces lighter colored wines anyway and tends to reveal its primary aromas and flavors at earlier ripeness. The best wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. They exhibit bright, fruit ranging from strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon.
These were some of the favorites of my tasting. Note how each sources its grapes from top pinot noir growing regions.
Pisoni “Lucy” Santa Lucia Highlands ($19) delicate, succulent mixed berries, supple,
Alma Rosa “Vin Gris” Sta. Rita Hills ($35) estate grown, elegant cherry, tangy orange, brisk strawberry, peach
Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County ($22) Russian River Valley and Carneros vineyards, brisk, strawberry, tangerine
Fiddlehead 2019 “Pink Fiddle” St. Rita Hills ($30) Fiddlestix Vineyard, brisk, tangy, strawberry
Lynmar Russian River Valley ($33) soft, raspberry, spice
Argyle Willamette Valley ($30) chardonnay and small amount of pinot meunier, crisp, creamy watermelon, red berry, mineral notes
MacRostie Sonoma Coast ($28) elegant, juicy, strawberry, supple
Bouchaine Carneros Estate Selection “Vin Gris” ($29) bright, strawberry, apricot
Acrobat Oregon ($15) juicy cherry, slightly herbal
Grapes originating in Southern France – notably Côtes de Provence (grenache) and Rhône Valley (grenache, cinsault, syrah, mourvedre) – also are popular. They tend to make a rosé a bit richer, offering more intensity with a touch of spice.
Alma Rosa Sta. Rita Hills Grenache Rosé ($30) sourced from El Jabali estate vineyard, brisk, cherry, strawberry, orange, peach, salty note
Ram’s Gate Rosé Sonoma Coast ($38) grenache with pinot noir and syrah, tart red berries, citrus
Anaba Sonoma County Rosé of Grenache ($34) fresh strawberry, tangerine
Finally, there are rosés produced with Bordeaux, Italian and Spanish varieties.
Acumen “Mountainside” Napa Valley ($35) blend of tempranillo and merlot from the estate Attelas Vineyard, offers bright cherry and strawberry with a slightly herbal accent in a nicely firm frame
Gamble Napa Valley ($26) cabernet sauvignon with some cabernet franc, merlot and petite verdot; tart raspberry, crenberry
de Negoce 2020 Lot 183 Alexander Valley ($13) sangiovese; direct-to-consumer from winemaker Cameron Hughes; creamy, spicy, cherry
NOTE: Featured image courtesy of dreamstime.com.