Cocktail fans know that the popular Bellini, invented at Harry’s Bar in Venice, is made with Prosecco and peach puree. Wine drinkers know that Prosecco is a satisfyingly fresh, graceful sparkling wine that is one of the best values around.
Prosecco also is the name of the production zone in the hills of the Veneto and Friuli Venezia Guilia regions of northeastern Italy north of Venice.
Made mostly from the native glera grape (though a small amount of other grapes are allowed), it is produced using the Charmat Method (sometimes described as the Italiano or Marinotti method, with the bubbles coming from the second fermentation in large, pressurized stainless steel tanks (referred to as autoclaves), instead of in the bottle as with Champagne).
Its fresh, delicate fruit of pear, apple, citrus, and peach fruit complimented with white flowers and a frothy palate make for an easy drinking and modestly priced wine with moderate alcohol versatile for many occasions.
Prosecco is produced in different quality levels, usually connected to progressively smaller production areas. Look for bottles labeled “Prosecco DOC” (designation of controlled origin) for a basic guarantee of quality.
But, for the highest quality, look for “Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG’ (“G” for guaranteed). This indicates that the grapes came from a much smaller area around the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene and the wine met stricter quality standards. This historic area of Prosecco production with unique hillside terroir was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2019.
The wines in my recent tasting (2020 vintage) all were in this classification. And even more exclusive, all bear the additional designation “Rive” to indicate small, hand-tended vineyards grown on special steeply sloped hills. These are named after the individual hills where the grapes originate. There are 15 communes that can make 43 Rive subzone wines.
- Andreola “Col del Forno” Rive di Refrontolo Brut ($25) floral, brisk, elegant
- Terre di San Venanzio Fortunato Superiore di Cartizze Brut ($30) most prestigious subzone, floral, creamy
- Graziano Merotto “Cuvée del Fondatore” Rive di Col San Martino Brut ($40) fresh, structured, mineral
- La Farra Rive de Farra di Soligo Extra Dry ($25) floral, bright, soft
- Val d’Oca Rive di San Pietro di Barbozza Brut ($35) taut, persistent
- Sanfeletto “San Piero” Rive di San Pietro Feletto Brut ($22) lush, mineral
- Valdo “Cuvée 1926” Extra Dry ($24) nonvintage; fresh, ripe, delicate
And just in time to get in on the recent popularity of Rosé, Prosecco Rosé DOC was introduced in 2020. It is produced with at least 85% glera blended with up to 15% pinot nero. Expect a flavor profile that combines white fruits with mixed berries.
A fine place to start is the 2020 Zardetto Extra Dry ($17), offering delicate fruitiness, refreshing acidity and a lively palate. The nonvintage Brilla! ($15) shows freshness, lightness and tangy fruitiness.
Finally, Valdo’s “Floral” Spumante Brut Rosé ($16), a blend of 75% nerello mascalese, red Sicilian grape, and 25% glera, is not Prosecco, since it doesn’t follow the DOC rules. But it is a delightfully unique combination of intensely fruity mixed berries, delicate bubbles and a round finish.
NOTE: View of vineyard in Prosecco region courtesy of Valdo winery.