While Chianti is the best-known Tuscan wine in the U.S., a little attention reveals a wide variety of other fine wines from Italy’s best-known wine region. In central Tuscany where the Chianti geographic region extends roughly from just north of Florence south to Siena, there are other highly regarded denominations north of Florence and south of Siena. And then there is the “new frontier” of the Maremma in the western part of the region along the Tyrrhenian Sea coast. Let’s visit a few.
Most Tuscan wines, though, still use sangiovese as their foundation (usually at least 70%). One of Italy’s many indigenous grape varieties, sangiovese truly shines in Tuscany. Typically, its wines exhibit deep, bright cherry and other red fruit aromas and flavors with firm, dry structure, and earthy qualities. Complexity is revealed in forest notes, baking spice and hints of anise. It often is blended with other native varieties, though increasingly Bordeaux grapes are part of the mix.
Considering the quality available, the wines are exceptional values. Those labeled simply Chianti are good everyday wines. The Chianti region has seven production zones, of which Chianti Classico (the original Chianti production zone south of Florence) is generally considered to produce the best wines. Wines labeled Riserva usually are selections of the producer’s finest fruit and receive extended time maturing in barrel and bottle before release aging. Gran Selezione is the highest classification requiring 90% sangiovese, estate fruit, and even longer aging.
2016 San Felice “Poggio Rosso” Gran Selezione ($70) juicy, toasty, oaky
2016 Tenuta Perano Riserva ($35) vibrant, intense, spicy
2017 Tenuta di Arceno “Strada al Sasso” Gran Selezione ($55) rich, savory, vanilla
Chianti Rufina, which lies east of Florence, generally is considered to be the best zone after Chianti Classico. Its higher elevation vineyards typically produce brighter toned fruit. The wines below are 100% sangiovese.
2016 Selvapiana “Vigneto Bucerchiale” ($36), exuberant, woodsy, licorice, elegant
2016 Selvapiana “Erchi” ($50) bright, foresty, graceful, licorice
Carmignano, west of Florence, is unique in that its wines must include at least 50% sangiovese and 10-20% cabernet sauvignon or cabernet franc plus other local grapes.
2017 Villa di Capezzana ($30) 80% sangiovese/20% cabernet sauvignon, powerful, intense, tannic
Montepulciano, southeast of Siena, is classic Tuscan hill town whose environs produce fine sangiovese (here known as prugnolo gentile, at least 70%). Home to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, its name reflects its popularity with royalty over the centuries. Though not as well-known as Chianti, it is equally worth your attention. Generally, Vino Nobile presents refreshing, vibrant fruit with somewhat gentler tannins.
2018 Poliziano ($30) bright, earthy, polished
Among wine intenditori (Italian for connoisseurs), Brunello di Montalcino is even more prized than Chianti Classico. They also are more expensive, with some bottles costing several hundred dollars. Named for wines made 100% from the local sangiovese clone (sangiovese grosso, historically referred to as brunello) grown around the village of Montalcino, Montepulciano’s neighbor to the west. These are some of the most concentrated, muscular, long-lived expressions of sangiovese. Typically 100% sangiovese, Brunello almost mandates several years of development before drinking.
2016 Castelgiocondo ($71) spice, tobacco, dense
2016 Campogiovanni ($65) intense but accessible
A small, little-known zone in the Tuscan Maremma region, Montecucco extends from the western border of Montalcino. The area is a leader in sustainable viticulture. Most grapes (predominantly sangiovese) are certified organic.
2016 Poggio Stenti “Pian di Staffa” Riserva ($52) 100% sangiovese, dense, dusty, lush, pleasantly dry
One of the most notable new Maremma denominations is Morellino di Scansano at the south end of the area. The wines must be from vineyards around the village of Scansano and at least 85% sangiovese (known as morellino locally) 15% ciliegiolo (common in central Italy).
2019 Lohsa ($16) ripe, herbaceous, lush
For a region that is grounded in so much history and tradition, Tuscany also has become a center of innovation over the last several decades. Enter the “Super Tuscans” (not an official designation). It was in Chianti in the 1970s where new wines emerged as a reaction to what some considered too rigid traditional regulations for making Chianti wine and the declining quality of much Chianti at the time. These wines, now designated Toscana IGT, are mostly defined by the use of nonindigenous grapes, particularly cabernet sauvignon, merlot or syrah. Many of these wines are expensive and considered among the best wines Italy has to offer.
2019 Lucente ($30) second wine of Luce, the flagship of the Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi/Robert Mondavi partnership, and is produced from the same vineyards in Montalcino. A 50% sangiovese/50% merlot blend, it is a nicely integrated, juicy, sleek, with tobacco and round finish.
Toscana IGT has become increasingly associated with Maremma, especially the Bolgheri zone along the western coast where single variety wines and French/Italian blends, are more common, and more modern winemaking techniques.
2017 San Felice “Bell’ Aja” Bolgheri Superiore ($60) merlot/cabernet sauvignon, concentrated, oaky, sleek
NOTE: Featured image courtesy of Tenuta Luce