As in other areas of life, it’s easy for us to get in a rut drinking a small number of types of wine. But as in life, so in wine: experiencing a diversity of grapes and their flavor profiles is enriching.
My recent tasting of “alternative” white wines (that is, no Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc) was one of the most enjoyable of recent months. Generally, you should find the wines in this column are bright, food-friendly and meant to be enjoyed at any time. A surprisingly winning array of wines, even though mostly unfamiliar grape varieties.
Riesling. Although it still has a reputation of being only a sweet wine, Riesling – the iconic wine of Germany and Alsace – often delightfully balances residual sugar and bracing acidity. But more and more, dry or off-dry Riesling is taking its place at the table. The best wines delightfully balance juicy, dramatic expressions of apple, grapefruit or peach (and sometimes peach or apricot) with bracing acidity, occasionally with steely, mineral components. It is intensely aromatic, impressively structured, and amazingly expressiveness of its terroir.
2021 J. Lohr Arroyo Seco “Bay Mist” ($13) sourced from Monterey; good everyday sipping, touch sweet
2020 Argyle “Nuthouse” ($30) from Oregon’s Willamette Valley; vibrant fruit; creamy texture from barrel fermentation and aging
2019 Penner-Ash Hyland Vineyard “Old Vine” ($40) also Oregon’s Willamette Valley; dramatic fruit, floral qualities, light spice, off dry
Pinot Gris. This grape – generally noted for full bodied, sumptuous stone fruit, melon, and citrus – is genetically a clone of pinot noir and is believed to have originated in Burgundy yet these days is more prominent in Alsace, Germany, Italy (pinot grigio) and Austria (where it is known as grauburgunder or ruländer), and, of course, Italy (where it is known as pinot grigio). It’s the leading white variety in Oregon and increasingly popular in California. Its name also refers to the greyish color of its skin.
2021 FEL Anderson Valley ($32) Founded in 2014, Canadian vintner Cliff Lede named FEL Wines in honor of his mother, Florence Elsie Lede; bright citrus refreshing acidity in this succulent, lush, tight honeysuckle, peach melon
2020 Alma Rosa La Encantada Vineyard ($32) planted by Alma Rosa’s founder (and Santa Barbara icon) Richard Sanford in 2000 in Santa Barbara County’s east-west traversing mountain range in the Sta. Rita Hills; precise, full-bodied, stone fruits, balanced acidity
Pinot Blanc. Another mutation of pinot noir, is associated with Alsace, Austria (weissburgunder), Germany (weissburgunder) and Italy (pinot bianco). It tends to offer peach, pear, lime, melon and apple and present with have good weight.
2020 Alma Rosa La Encantada Pinot Blanc ($35) bright acidity, subtle aromas of ocean breeze
2021 Lucy “Pico Blanco” ($24) here’s a combination of 70% pinot gris and 30% pinot blanc! Named by the Pisoni family after a mountain peak in Montery County; pear, apple, lemon, creamy; one dollar of every bottle donated to Monterey Bay Aquarium for ocean conservancy.
Viognier. Viognier once upon a time was quite rare but is now the most-planted white Rhone varietal in the United States. It produces wines with intense aromatics of peach, apricot, apple, and floral notes, as well as viscosity and lushness.
2020 Cristom Louise Vineyard ($30) since 1992 in the Eola-Amity Hills of Oregon’s Willamette Valley; organic and biodynamic farming; structured, honeysuckle, anise, peach, apricot
Chenin Blanc. Originates from the Loire Valley where it makes fascinating, complex, luscious (dry or sweet), yet underappreciated wines. It also has been increasingly successful in South Africa. In California, it used to be produced in a fruity, slightly sweet style, though a few brave souls now make a dry style inspired by the fine wines of Savennieres.
2021 Dry Creek Vineyard “Dry” ($16). From a choice vineyard in Clarksburg in Lodi, it is aromatic and brisk, balanced with bright apple and honey.
Grüner Veltliner. Austria’s signature grape has become so popular we have begun to see small but increasing plantings in California. It produces outgoing, lively wines, with succulent fruit – citrus and tropical – and hints of mineral and spice.
2015 Fiddlehead Cellars “Bebble” Fiddlestix Vineyard Reserve ($42) from a pioneer of the grape in California, a selection of the most expressive barrels from Sta. Rita Hills in Santa Barbara County; delicate fruit, pleasing acidity, mineral, lightly peppery, surprising weight, elegant but rich palate balance by acidity .
Albariño. Primarily identified with northwest Spain and Portugal (where it is known as alvarinho) it can make invigorating, floral and citrus-flecked wines. There also are some interesting, successful examples in California, notably in the central coast regions.
2021 Vara ($30) a new wine project from partners highly regarded winemakers Laurent Gruet (founder of Gruet sparkling wine producer), Bob Lindquist (founder of Qupé in Santa Barbara) and his wife Louisa Sawyer Lindquist (founder of Verdad Wine Cellars) based in Albuquerque, New Mexico, to produce wines from Spanish grape varietals grown in Spain, New Mexico and American vineyards; honeysuckle, melon, stone fruit and the essence of wet stone, rich fruit amazing acidity, tropical and stone fruit minerality, limestone lime.