Of the seven major officially recognized winegrowing regions in New York, the Finger Lakes may be the best known, but with fresh sea air, boutique lodgings and a creative local food scene, the venerable coastal stretch that is Long Island is proving to be a big draw for the serious wine drinker and traveler.
The North Fork of Long Island, with the majority of the island’s nearly 90 wineries, is of particular attraction. Just over 100 miles from Manhattan, these producers benefit from the moderately cool maritime climate and influences from the Long Island Sound above and protection from Peconic Bay and the South Fork (think The Hamptons) below.
While winegrowing here dates at least to the 1820s, commercial winegrowing didn’t take hold until the 1960s and 1970s but really began to take off in the 1980s. Unlike many eastern US wine regions, mostly vinifera grapes (like merlot, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and riesling) are grown.
The wines below were uniformly impressive and notable for moderate alcohol ranging from 11% to 13%.
Nonvintage Sparkling Pointe Brut Nature ($42) dedicated to the exclusive production of Méthode Champenoise Sparkling wines; sustainably grown using the classic Champagne varieties; Brut Nature is 68% pinot noir, 32% chardonnay, principally from aged reserve wines with over three years sur lie; very dry, precise pear, apple, citrus, salty, toasty
2020 Peconic Bay Riesling ($30) one of the oldest Long Island wineries (1979); focused on sustainable viticulture; slightly sweet but more tangy, nicely balanced, crisp acidity, peach, honey
2021 Bridge Lane Sauvignon Blanc ($20) small farm-winery, grapes grown sustainably on estate vineyards and sourced from other local vineyards; no oak, revealing energized freshness, juicy flavors of citrus and appealing herbal notes; fresh, light, dry, fruit-forward style meant for casual sipping; the eco-conscious, informal approach extends to offerings in 4 containers – 750ml bottle, 3L box, 250ml can and 20L keg
2019 Baiting Hollow “Pink Satin” Rosé ($35) conveniently located at the western-most cusp of the North Fork, this farm and vineyard produces estate blend of merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon; pleasantly dry, fresh apple and citrus, bright and elegant
2021 Macari “Horses” Sparkling Cabernet Franc ($29) from a family with a tradition of home winemaking, and planted vineyards in 1995; focus on biodiversity and biodynamic practices; This is a “pétillant naturel” (Pet Nat) – fermentation is finished in the bottle; result is frothy and lively, with deeply juicy red berries
2019 Pellegrini Chardonnay Stainless Steel ($23) one of the pioneers of the modern Long Island wine industry, Pellegrini planted its vineyards in 1982 on the eastern tip of the island; limited release unoaked wine; vivacious and fresh offering citrus, pear and honeydew.