As recent wine industry sales reports show blended wines gaining popularity, I have wondered how much of that is Bordeaux. I suspect little. Largely because of price but likely also because there are so many alternative wines and growing regions these days.
Red Bordeaux wines basically are assemblages of mostly cabernet sauvignon and merlot, with varying amounts of petit verdot, cabernet franc, and malbec. The Médoc is the prime area, especially the Haut- Médoc subregion. Its Left Bank (of the Gironde estuary) communes of Margaux, Pauillac, St. Estèphe, St. Julien, and Graves and its Right Bank communes of St. Emilion and Pomerol get most of the attention. This is where the most famous château, namely those included in 1855 Classification (something that has been changed little since!) are located.
Briefly, Pauillac, an important port throughout history, houses some of the most famous estates, including three of the five Bordeaux First-Growth wines. Margaux is the largest area, with the most cru classé properties. Saint-Estèphe, the northernmost appellation of the Haut-Médoc, has slightly different soils leading to highly structures wines. Saint-Julien a small appellation, has the highest percentage of surface area/wines that are classified.
When I first became interested in wine, I occasionally was able to afford one of these top Bordeaux. But today most of their prices are beyond what only a few anywhere can afford. But Bordeaux values do exist. On the Left Bank, particularly wines carrying the Cru Bourgeois (especially Cru Bourgeois Supérieur and Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel) and especially those from the communes of Listrac and Moulis label offer admirable quality for significantly lower prices.
More inland and east from the Gironde, the satellite region of the Côtes de Bordeaux notably the appellations associated with the villages of Blaye, Castillon, Cadillac and Francs – can deliver good value. Also, many of the producers pursue organic and biodynamic practices. Francs is the farthest east and most rural growing area. It also is known for prehistoric Lascaux cave paintings.
Moulis-en-Médoc means the commune (town) of Moulis in the Médoc. Moulis is somewhat central in the peninsula, halfway between Margaux and Saint-Julien, but slightly off the main route. Listrac-Médoc is located at the highest point of the Médoc peninsula. Its geography results in a cooler climate than the other communes.
This column mostly features wines of the Left Bank, usually emphasizing cabernet sauvignon. Try them and you will be convinced Bordeaux can be counted among the world’s great wine values. In fact, all wines featured in this piece are under $50.
The wines:
2018 Château de Pez St.-Estèphe ($60) Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel; 49% cabernet sauvignon, 49% merlot, 1% cabernet franc, 1% petit verdot, vibrant dark berries, fresh red berries, black olives, forest notes, firm texture, will excel with aging
2019 Château Fourcas-Dupré Listrac-Médoc ($26) 2/3 cabernet sauvignon, 1/3 merlot, 1% petit verdot; lively cassis, black currant, spice, full-bodied, concentrated, youthfully structured, fine tannins, will develop nicely
2018 Château Petit Bocq Saint-Estephe ($28) Cru Bourgeois Superiore; equal parts cabernet sauvignon and merlot, with cabernet franc and petit verdot; dense black fruits, currants, mint, chocolate, earth, chewy texture
2018 Château Bellegrave Paullac ($40) 2/3 cabernet sauvignon, 1/3 merlot; dense black currant and berries, plum, spicy herbs, full-bodied, rich, rustic tannins, potential to evolve nicely
2019 Château LaTour de Bessan Margaux ($38) 58% cabernet sauvignon, 32% merlot, 10% petit verdot; dense dark berries, currants, hints of violets and graphite, earthy, soft but firm tannins
2018 Château du Retout Haut-Médoc ($28) Cru Bourgeois; ¾ cabernet sauvignon, with petit verdot and merlot; dark berries, herbal, earthy, spice, firm, chewy tannins
2016 Château Puyanché Francs Côtes de Bordeaux ($16) 80% merlot, 20% cabernet sauvignon; the lone Right Bank wine; fresh, red currant, plum, lightly chalky, solid and balanced
2018 Château Dargan Moulis-en-Médoc ($23) merlot, cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot; red fruits, earth, herbs, vanilla, pleasant acidity, velvety