Over the last 30 years, Central and Southern Italian wines have risen in consumer interest, largely because of increased quality and reasonable pricing. Further, an emphasis on resurrecting rare native grape varieties coincided with increasing consumer interest in new flavor experiences. In a world of increasing costs, these wines deliver distinctive, bold, expressions of their origins, at impressive price points.
MARCHE
Just east of Tuscany, Marche is bordered by the Apennine Mountains on the west and the Adriatic Sea on the east. While best known as a white wine region, notable reds from the subregion of Rosso di Picenzo, feature enticing blends of montepulciano and sangiovese. A favorite is the 2021 Garofoli “Farnio” ($13) for its lively dark berries, hint of vanilla and powdery tannins.
ABRUZZO
Bordering Marche to the south, Abruzzo is notable for its Apennine mountains, national parks, and sunny Adriatic coastline. Though not well-known, its Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wine is quite popular as the montepulciano grape here makes an ideal everyday wine. The 2017 Nestore Bosco “Pan” ($20) is robust, with ripe fruit, hints of spice and earth, and powerful tannins. The 2017 La Valentina “Spelt” ($23) from some of the top estate vineyards, delivers bright red fruits with an assertive presence.
CAMPANIA
Enjoying a prime location south of Rome and east of Naples, Campania is the source of several notable white and red wines but Taurasi (the region and the wine) is the most prestigious. Crafted from aglianico grapes, it is the one exception to my low price theme. The 2009 Case d’Alto Taurasi Riserva ($80) is complex showing smoky dried cherry, prune, balsamic, star anise, spice, oak, and an age worthy structure.
PUGLIA
Visualizing Italy as a boot, Puglia runs from the calf down to the heel. A relative of zinfandel, primitivo thrives in the warm vineyards of Salento in the heel. One of my favorites is the ebullient, juicy 2021 Li Veli “Orion” ($15). Another flavorful, good value is the organic 2019 Antica Enotria “Vriccio” ($15). Also in Salento, the 2019 Li Veli Susumaniello ($21), an ancient grape resurrected, packs a deep, red fruited punch. The 2012 Apollonio “Divoto” Riserva ($28) synergizes negroamaro and montepulciano for ripe red fruit, clove, and fresh tannins.
CALABRIA
Geographically, Calabria lies west of Puglia in Italy’s toe. A largely mountainous region with a fascinating history and a stunning coastline, it’s experiencing something of a winemaking renaissance. The 2017 Casa Comerci ‘A Batia ($27) from magliocco canino, a variety exclusive to this area, and vinified using indigenous yeasts, is rich and full. The full bodied, tannic 2013 Ippolito 1845 “Ripe del Falco” ($30) is an impressive expression of Calabria’s most respected wine, Cirò Superiore Riserva, based on gaglioppo, another ancient local variety.