The Santa Cruz Mountains AVA (American Viticultural Area) is one of the lesser-known wine regions of California among consumers. I’m here to change that. In addition to breathtaking ocean and mountain vistas, the world-class wines are becoming a major draw.
The AVA was established in 1981 using the “ European model” of climatological and geophysical aspects (primarily elevation) instead of political boundaries. From just south of San Francisco it stretches down the peninsula almost to Monterey Bay with the Pacific Ocean to the west and the San Francisco Bay and Santa Clara Valley to the east. Even with significant growth since the 1960s that has accelerated in the 21st century, the region is mostly characterized by smaller, family-owned vineyards and wineries.
Winegrape production is divided roughly evenly among Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and “Other Varieties”. This column makes recommendations for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. My next column covers exciting developments with Pinot Noir.
Cabernet Sauvignon
2019 RIDGE Monte Bello Vineyard ($245) Winegrowing along and up Monte Bello Ridge began in the 1870s. Since 1962, Ridge has championed what it describes as a “pre-industrial approach” to single-vineyard winemaking. Monte Bello Cabernets from Ridge are iconic, long considered a “grand cru” of California wine. Notably they present an elegant European style as much as a full fruited American style. This one has layers of complexity, vanilla, minerals, cocoa, currant; balanced, yet revealing the structure to enable evolution, possibly for decades.
2018 Mount Eden Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains ($110) Small historic wine estate founded in 1945 by Martin Ray; located on a mountain peak, it is one of the original “boutique” California wineries; earth, herb, graphite accent plum and blue fruits, dryly tannic, tightly wound structure yet supple texture, will develop even more complexity with lengthy cellaring.
2019 Vöcal Vineyards “Bates Ranch” ($95) Focused on single vineyard wines, Vöcal produced this from an allocation of hillside vines of the original dry farmed, own-rooted 1969 planting; quite rich, a bit of spice with ripe, fresh red berries touched with herbal notes.
Chardonnay
2019 Thomas Fogarty Winery Langley Hill Vineyard ($68) Established in 1976, employs organic, sustainable, and biodynamic practices; delightful brisk citrus and nectarine with hints of stone and juicy palate
2021 Sandar & Hem Wines Mountain Winery Vineyard ($52) Winery is barely five years old but the dedication to capturing the essence of the terroirs of the AVA, this one is from a Paul Masson planted vineyard; tightly impactful citrus balanced with round nut and spicy lemongrass
2021 Beauregard Vineyards Ben Lomond Mountain “Bald Mountain” ($65) Originally planted around 1880, the Beauregard family has farmed this property since 1945; intense and brash with zesty citrus and chalky notes