Italy’s distinctive geography (and culture and history) produces arguably the widest diversity of wines anywhere on the planet. There also is a cornucopia of native varieties producing mostly region-focused, small production wines well worth seeking out. If there is a common thread along the peninsula, they all offer intense aromatics and refreshing character. Recommended wines from my recent tasting are listed by region from North to south.
Friuli-Venezia Giulia
2020 Russiz Superiore Sauvignon ($31) from Collio near the border with Slovenia in view of the Alps and Adriatic Sea; juicy grapefruit, herbs, nuts
Trentino-Alto Adige
2020 Alois Lageder “Versalto” Pinot Bianco ($28) from select vineyards in the Alpine valleys (Dolomites) north of Verona; biodynamic, mountain air, lively apricot, lush
Veneto
2020 Inama Soave Classico “Carbonare” ($30) garganega grapes from single vineyard; pear, nectarine, apricot, with almond, lush texture
Pasqua “Hey French: You Could Have Made This But You Didn’t” ($40) multivintage blend of garganega with pinot bianco and sauvignon, from vineyards on the Verona side of Monte Calvarina; surprisingly complex with richness and freshness
Marche
2021 Garofoli “Supèra” Verdicchio di Matelica ($16) from vineyards at the base of the Apennines; juicy pear, plum, solid structure
Sardinia (Sardegna)
2021 Surrau “Branu” Vermentino di Gallura ($20) from estate vineyards; crisp citrus, some weight, chalky hints
Tuscany (Toscana)
2018 Frescobaldi “Massovivio” Vermentino ($22) from the Frescobaldi’s Ammiraglia estate; floral, succulent, minerally
Abruzzo
2021 La Valentina Pecorino ($18) organic, biodynamic, (old variety once thought extinct but resurrected by La Valentina); intense, brisk apple, cashew
Sicily
Catarratto. Ancient grape, historically used in Marsala wine and blends, full-bodied dry, deep citrus, floral elements
2020 Feudo Disisa “Lu Bancu” ($22) tart, herbal nuttiness
2020 Gorghi Tondi “Midor” ($18) organic, lime, tight, lively
2020 Cottanera “Barbazzale” ($19) fresh, citrusy, herbal
Zibibbo (Moscato di Alessandria). Very ancient grape originated in Egypt; often used for dessert wines; intensely aromatic dry wines of orange, stone fruits, almond.
2020 Donnafugata “Lighea” ($24) persistent freshness, mineral
2020 Mandrarossa “Costadune Secco” ($18) tropical fruit, mint, lip-smacking
Grillo. Another ancient variety historically a component of Marsala and blends but also a fine dry wine of citrus, apple, and refreshing acidity.
2020 Planeta “La Segreta” ($20) sauvignon-like herbal citrus
2020 Donnafugata “Sur Sur” ($22) crisp apple, lemon, light spice
2019 Cantine Ermes “Quattro Quarti” ($19) juicy tropical fruit, hint of black tea
Insolia (Inzolia). Again, historically a component of Marsala and many blends but it is delightfully nutty, citrusy, herbal as a dry varietal wine.
2019 Principi di Butera “Carizza” ($17) tangy stone fruits
2020 Baglio di Pianetto ($15) organic, citrus, nitty
2021 Sallier de la Tour Inzolia ($15) citrus, stone fruits, mineral
Etna Bianco. Mount Etna, the tallest, most active volcano in Europe also happens to overlook suddenly prized volcanic soils, old vines, and multiple microclimates vineyards. Wines are mostly carricante.
2019 Terra Costantino ($27) organic, tight, pear, savory
2021 Duca di Salaparuta “Lavico” ($26) lively tropical, savory, mineral