In recent years, I have observed more of my family and friends telling me that Sauvignon Blanc is one of their favorite wine. Although it originated in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley, it also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, Chile, South Africa, and Australia. This column focuses on California.
The grape’s flavor profile comes in several styles, though it’s usually assertively aromatic, with refreshing acidity. Generally, expect brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) but also other citrus (grapefruit) and occasionally stone fruit and a distinctive (sometimes spicy) herbaceousness. Some also are evocative of fresh cut hay or grass. Wines made from riper fruit (usually the more expensive ones) often display melon, nectarine, peach, or even tropical fruits.
NOTE: Wines are listed in order of preference within each category but all are recommended.
I found a number of good values: they generally are ebullient, spry with a focus on varietal fruit but all display the grape’s trademark refreshing character.
- 2022 Dry Creek Vineyard Sonoma County Fumé ($20) juicy, citrus, gooseberry
- 2022 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($25) tropical fruit, melon, spicy herb
- 2022 Ancient Peaks Paso Robles ($18) juicy lemon-lime, sea salt, apple, ginger
- 2021 The Paring California ($25) fresh, lively, lemon, melon, grassy, peach
- 2022 Ferrari-Carano Fumé North Coast ($21) crisp citrus, tropical and stone fruit
- 2022 Markham Napa Valley ($24) fresh grapefruit, citrus zest, spice
For a few extra dollars, I found more complexity and intensity in the following wines.
- 2022 Cliff Lede Napa Valley ($35) pear, peach, brisk citrus, oaky weighty
- 2021 Quivira Dry Creek Valley Fig Tree Vineyard ($30) fresh citrus, apricot, herbs
- 2021 Chalk Hill “Chalk Hill Estate” ($38) vibrant citrus, caramel, lush
- 2022 Fiddlehead “La Pressa Vineyard” Santa Ynez Valley ($36) from old vines on a historic site in the Los Olivos District, racy grapefruit, gooseberry, ginger
- 2022 Rombauer Sonoma /Napa ($28) bright grapefruit, melon, smooth
- 2022 Silverado Miller Ranch Yountville Estate ($30) lively citrus, oats, herbal
At higher prices, the wines tend to feature more use of different fermenting and aging vessels, along with practices such as lees stirring to build complexity and texture. These wines share a complex profile of bright, ripe fruit, and sophisticated, rich textures. As good as the above wines are, these are really special.
- 2021 Spottswoode ($45) Sonoma/Napa County blend, amazingly flavorful, refreshing, complex, hints of oak, herbaceous, citrus, peach, minerality
- 2022 Chalk Hill “Windy Ridge” ($52) special clone, single block, very aromatic, grapefruit, tropical fruit, green apple, rich texture
- 2022 Gamble “Gamble Vineyard” Yountville ($45) crisp, complex, stone fruits, minerals
- 2021 Brandlin Estate Mt. Veeder ($45) citrus, stone fruits, oak, succulent
- 2022 Priest Ranch “Block 71” Napa Valley ($48) special selection, grapefruit, guava, licorice