America has become serious about rosé. It’s now the third ranking producer and consumer. And its popularity is mostly for higher quality dry rosés. These wines are great with food as well as an aperitif. They are crisp and refreshing with flavors similar to red wine but drinking more like white wine. This column focuses on Italy and California with side trips to Austria, Spain and Chile.
Rosato, as it is known in Italy, is found up and down the peninsula and is produced from numerous native grape varieties.
Veneto: 2022 Scaia ($15) rondinella, a traditional Valpolicella variety; raspberries, peach, tangy
Tuscany: 2022 Capezzana “Vin Ruspo” ($19) organic sangiovese, small amounts of cabernet sauvignon and canaiolo from Carmignano; tart, cherry pie
Marche: 2022 Garofoli “Kómaros” ($14) montepulciano; intense watermelon
Puglia: 2022 Li Veli “Torrerose” ($15) negroamaro, juicy cherry
2022 Li Veli Susumaniello “Askos” ($25) ancient grape; raspberry, spicy, herbal
Sicily: 2021 Sallier de La Tour “Madamarosè” ($21): syrah; fresh, lively rhubarb, savory
California seems to have latched on to pinot noir as the grape of choice. Its rosés tend to the brisk acidity of sharper red fruits. Some also are labeled “Vin Gris”. The wines below are 100% pinot noir unless otherwise noted.
Sonoma: 2022 Ram’s Gate ($40) Sonoma County; 51% pinot noir, 49% mourvèdre; fuller body, intense, spicy red berries
2021 Naidu ($30) Sonoma Coast; mostly estate fruit; crips strawberry, cherr
2022 Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County ($22) Russian River Valley and Carneros fruit; crisp, savory, strawberry, rhubarb, cranberry
2022 Sonoma-Cutrer ($25) Russian River Valley; tangy red berries, rhubarb, spice
2021 Sebastiani ($28) from the Sonoma side of Carneros; exuberant, strawberry, watermelon, touch of mint
Napa: 2022 Frank Family “Leslie” ($50) from Napa side of Carneros; fresh, vibrant, cherry, peach, citrus
2022 Bouchaine “Vin Gris” ($29) from the Napa Valley side of Carneros; labeled Vin Gris of Pinot Noir; lively, strawberry, watermelon, nectarine
Santa Barbara: 2022 Fiddlehead Cellars “Pink Fiddle” ($32) from a small single vineyard in the western end of the Sta. Rita Hills; deep, succulent cherry, light spice
2022 Alma Rosa “Vin Gris” ($38) from the El Jabali estate vineyard in Sta. Rita Hills; complex, elegant, mouthwatering, saline
Austria: 2022 Triebaumer Reserve ($14) blaufränkisch – known as Lemberger in Germany; juicy, vibrant, peach, raspberry, strawberries, pear
2022 Weingut Bründlmayer ($18) Zweigelt – most widely planted red grape in Austria – a crossing of blaufränkisch and St-Laurent; organic, strawberry, cherry, floral, yeasty, lively
Spain: 2022 Conde Valdemar ($18) 85% garnacha,15% viura from family-owned vineyards in Rioja; cherry, roses, red berries, smooth, fresh
Argentina: 2020 Otronia “45 Rugientes” ($30) organic pinot noirfrom Patagonia, fermented with native yeasts; red fruit, pink pepper, flowers, persistent