Zinfandel is a special grape. But it is underappreciated. It has the second largest production in California next to Cabernet Sauvignon. But is the fourth in sales. It’s time we do our part to move Zinfandel up on the list.
Characteristics include exuberance, bold, succulent red berries, peppery spice, anise, a wild quality, and moderate tannin, but almost always with significant alcohol. The wines in my tastings ranged from 14.5% to 15.9% alcohol. Most of the best wines are under $50 and there are countless excellent wines under $30. It can improve with age, is food friendly, and usually a fine value.
With numerous appellations featuring superior vineyard sources, Sonoma County arguably is the premier zinfandel producer. I have two fine examples from the Dry Creek Valley. Quivira’s 2019 Anderson Ranch ($50), from an organic vineyard located in the venerated Lytton Springs corridor, bursts with briar, blackberry, licorice, black pepper; its 2019 Black Boar ($55), an organic blend of Anderson Ranch and Wine Creek Ranch fruit, is impressively rich, zesty, concentrated, with luscious dark berries. Dutcher Crossing’s 2019 Maple Vineyard ($51) from dry farmed, head pruned vines in the Lytton Springs corridor, shows abundant red berries, caramel and richness.
There are also fine Sonoma County values: 2021 Seghesio ($26) bright, bold, raspberry, savory, anise, cinnamon; 2021 Quivira Dry Creek Valley ($28); 2021 Head High ($28) lively, ripe, rich, cherry, spice.
Though Napa Valley is best known for world class Cabernet, surprisingly there is also fine Zinfandel. Like the 2021 Frank Family ($45) succulent red and black fruit, lightly spicy.
The Sierra Foothills is one of the oldest wine growing regions in California, with the first zinfandel grapes planted in California in the mid-1800s. A fine example is the 2019 Renwood Estate Grown Renwood Ranch ($25) rich blackberry, plum, tobacco, cinnamon, licorice, vanilla. And the Napa-based Rombauer 2020 California ($38), a blend of 77% Sierra Foothills with some Napa and Lake County fruit; full-bodied, fruit-forward, super ripe, vanilla, rich.
East of Oakland, Contra Costa County is known for growing fine old vine zinfandel and Rhône varieties. The 2020 Cline Ancient Vines ($16) is a longtime favorite; bright, black and red berries, nutmeg, herbal, smooth.
Lodi is synonymous with Zinfandel and accessibly priced wine. Two wines from Oak Ridge signify: 2020 OZV Old Vine ($15) OZV is a portfolio dedicated to old vine varieties sourced from Lodi growers; earthy, fresh, blueberry, licorice, smooth texture. And 2020 Moss Roxx Estate Grown Old Vine Reserve ($24) offers dense black raspberry, toast and spice.
In the heart of California’s Central Coast, Paso Robles sources high quality cabernet sauvignon, Rhône varieties and, yes, zinfandel. The 2020 Ancient Peaks Santa Margarita Ranch ($22) shows enticing, zesty, mixed berries, and savory pepper.