As the calendar marches us into holiday season, most of us will begin soon to plan for our Thanksgiving Day meal. Choosing the wine can be challenging, though. There are so many different types of food, flavors and textures.
First, rule: relax. It’s easy to go down a rabbit hole trying to come up with the perfect match. Turkey actually is versatile, though I don’t suggest heavy, complex reds. In my experience, light- to medium-bodied reds better compliment the meat. And they work with the accompaniments, too.
Pinot Noir comes to mind first. Specifically Pinot Noir D’Alsace for its supple, balanced palate and bright red fruit (cherry, strawberry, cranberry) with savory spice flavors. The 2019 Jean-Baptiste Adam “Les Natures” ($30) made with organically grown grapes, balances vitality with silky tannins. With its solid acidity, it also would be a good complement to ham, creamy potatoes or green beans. Its earthiness harmonizes root vegetables and gravy. And its red fruit stands up to cranberry sauce.
If you prefer white wine, I recommend dry Alsatian Riesling. It is distinguished by pure aromas, plentiful, focused green apple and citrus fruit, and a bracing grip on the palate. A wine like the 2020 Domaine Emile Beyer “Tradition” ($24) will carve through the fat in the meat and gravy, the stuffing, potatoes, yams and balance the cranberry sauce.
A Riesling Grand Cru would be even more interesting with its intensely aromatic, fresh, elegant and crystal clear fruit and sharp mineral notes. The 2020 Meyer-Fonne “Wineck-Schlossberg” ($50) is quite energetic, with ripe fruit, finesse and racy precision.
Alsatian Gewürztraminer is another favorite of mine and can make a good pairing. I love the grapefruit and lychee fruit and warm spice, presented with an unctuous texture, as in the 2019 Trimbach Gewurztraminer d”Alsace ($34). These qualities enable it to deftly hold up to the variety of flavors and textures, sweet and savory. And it carries its higher alcohol (14.5%) with balance. Even more so, the 2017 Lucien Albrecht “Spiegel Grand Cru” ($35) delivers intense aromas and flavors with a luscious, lavish texture.
Now that we have dinner covered, what about an aperitif or something for dessert? Namely bubbly, known as Crémant d’Alsace, for both. Made using the Champagne Method with pinot noir or chardonnay (occasionally with pinot blanc, pinot gris or riesling).
A good example is the Lucien Albrecht Brut Rose ($23). This 100 percent pinot noir offers crisp strawberry and raspberry with finesse and a creamy palate. The 2019 Domaine Christophe Mittnacht “Terres d’Etoiles” Extra Brut ($29) made with certified biodynamic pinot auxerrois, pinot blanc, riesling, pinot gris, and pinot noir, is elegant, and fresh with intriguing sherry notes. Each has a flavor profile and acidity structure that actually also would work well the meal.