I think it is fair to say that Chianti traditionally has been the best known Tuscan wine in the U.S. Speaking of tradition, though, stubborn insistence on adhering to outdated rules led to a decline in quality in the 1960s and 70s. With the introduction of the so-called Super Tuscans in the 1970s and stricter production rules for Chianti beginning in the 1980s, we have tasted steady increases in quality since.
The primary grape in Chianti, and most Tuscan wines, is sangiovese. Typically, it yields medium bodied wines with lively red fruits, firm, dry structure, and silky tannins. Complexity is revealed in spice, earth, forest, and mineral notes. It often is blended with other native varieties, and increasingly Bordeaux grapes.
My recent tasting highlighted the amazing quality for the price of a relatively new top quality level of Chianti Classico designated “Gran Selezione”, indicating a selection of the best grapes, requiring 80% sangiovese, estate fruit, and longer aging.
Two outstanding wines from San Felice are exemplary:
- 2018 “Poggio Rosso” ($58) concentrated, toasty spice, mineral notes
- 2019 “Il Grigio” ($50) lush, intense, vibrant, savory
The 2019 Rialzi ($50) from Tenuta Perano was nearly as impressive with its vibrant, toasty, spicy herb character.
Chianti Rufina generally is considered the next best production zone. And Nipozzano is one of its premier producers. Its 2019 “Vecchie Viti” ($30) from old vines, is elegant, juicy, earthy, stony with nice volume.
Brunello di Montalcino (100% local sangiovese clone grown around Montalcino in southern Tuscany) is even more prized than Chianti, though usually more expensive. These are some of the most concentrated, muscular, long-lived expressions of sangiovese, as seen in the wines below.
- 2018 Campogiovanni ($80) owned by San Felice; rich red fruits, dense, full but accessible, herbal, tannic
- 2018 Castiglion del Bosco ($60) powerful, rich, broad, brawny, darker, savory iron, friendly tannins
Super Tuscans usually still feature sangiovese but with nonindigenous grapes, particularly cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. The 2020 Tenute Luce “Lucente” ($40) is an example of a fine moderately priced one. It’s 75% merlot/25% sangiovese, lively, toasty, soft textured with spicy oak and tobacco.
The 2019 San Felice “Vigorello” ($58) is a blend of 35% pugnitello (a native vine rediscovered by San Felice), 30% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon and 5% petit verdot. It presents an enticing bouquet and full figure with spice, mineral, herbs, brightness, and tight tannins.
Many of the most famous Super Tuscans come from the Bolgheri area along the western Tuscan coast. Typically, the wines exhibit bright cherry fruit, firm, dry structure, and earthy qualities. Another amazing value is the 2021 Podere Sapaio “Volpolo” ($36) 70% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot and 15% petit verdot with firm but elegant texture, pure fruit, floral and earthy notes.