When I was first getting interested in wine in the 1970s and 1980s, Bordeaux was the benchmark for most serious wine lovers. In those days, even top quality Bordeaux (the prestigious Classified Growths) was reasonably accessible and affordable. I remember buying dozens of Classified Bordeaux, particularly from the 1970s, on a college student’s budget!
This is no longer possible. Today, access to the best Bordeaux appears to be limited to “the one percent.” Yet, so much attention, especially in the wine press, is focused on the top producers and their astronomical prices, most of the rest of us have conceded the market and moved on to other regions and grape varieties. Personally, I have all of two Bordeaux (lower classed growths from the great 2000 vintage) in my cellar and have only drunk one other bottle in the past three years.
I have paid so little attention to Bordeaux lately I was surprised to read in my research for this column the vast majority of all Bordeaux sells for less than $20. This gave me hope finding good Bordeaux for a reasonable price is possible.
So I collected a case worth of samples and tasted them blind. Most of the wines actually come from the Entre-deux-Mers region, just east of the city of Bordeaux. Though without the prestige of the Medoc, the clay and gravel soils laced with limestone provide good raw materials. And growers and winemakers have worked to improve production methods. The results, at least in my tasting were surprisingly positive.
I noted many of the wines are higher in acidity than most of us drinkers of American wines are used to. But the acid served to lift the wines and keep them fresh tasting. The dominant fruit was plum, while red fruits occasionally emerged. Tannins were noticeable but not too assertive. Some were muted aromatically but the wines listed below displayed good fruit and structure. I also was surprised to note most of the wines are dominated by merlot. Alas, two of the wines were corked. My recommendations follow.
Bordeaux
- 2009 Chateau Briot Reserve ($12) – a bit earthy, firm, dry (80% merlot, 20% cabernet sauvignon)
- 2010 Barons de Rothschild Reserve Speciale ($16) – from the makers of Chateau Lafite-Rothschild; fairly intense, slightly peppery, dry (70% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon)
Bordeaux Superieur
- 2007 Chateau Argadens ($14) – my favorite of the tasting; the most complex and aromatic (63% merlot, 32% cabernet sauvignon, 5% cabernet franc)
- 2008 Chateau de Lugagnac ($10) – muted nose but good intensity, dry (50% merlot, 50% cabernet sauvignon)
- 2009 Chateau Lestrille ($9) not much bouquet, though some evergreen and nice red fruits; finishes with dry tannins (100% merlot)
- 2009 Chateau Timberlay ($20) – cherry, mint slightly bitter dry finish (85% merlot, 10% cabernet sauvignon, 5% cabernet franc)
I also enjoyed two white Bordeaux. The 2011 Chateau Timberlay (60% sauvignon blanc, 40% Semillon, $18) showed interesting hay and oat qualities, with lively citrus notes. The 2010 Barons de Rothschild Reserve Speciale (40% sauvignon blanc, 60% Semillon, $14) was aromatic, with spicy herb, gooseberry and lemon. These wines provide an enjoyable contrast to California and New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs.
Finally, I was pleasantly surprised by the 2010 Chateau Timberlay Clairet ($18), a rose of 50% merlot and 50% cabernet sauvignon. Its strawberry and cherry fruit was bright and tangy, excellent for spring sipping.
In recent years, many wine writers and bloggers have asserted that Bordeaux has become “irrelevant,” especially to the younger generation. This may be true, particularly with regard to the top wines. When was the last time you bought a bottle of Bordeaux or ordered Bordeaux in a restaurant? If you can find any of the wines recommended here, though, give them a try. You should be pleased.
Photo Credit for Featured Image: CIVB/Philippe Roy