Tag: cabernet sauvignon

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Chile Another South American Source of Excellent Values

rich mauro peoples palateAs I wrote in a previous post, the popularity of wine from Argentina and Chile with American consumers has been growing for a good decade now. And it seems to have escalated since the beginning of the Great Recession. The main reason for this popularity seems to be that most of the wines remain modestly priced, even as the quality has improved.

Chilean wines have been good values as long as I can remember. What is different now is that the quality has improved rather dramatically in recent years. Just as I proposed in my post last month on Argentina, there are good wines under $10 and in some ways even better values in the $10-$20 range.

Another similarity with Argentina is the fairly recent emergence of an otherwise lesser-known variety – in this case Carménère – as the country’s signature wine. This red grape was widely planted in Bordeaux in the early 1700’s but virtually disappeared in the late 1800’s. As immigrants and others brought European varieties to Chile in the mid 1800’s, it showed up there; seemingly disappeared again over time (actually it apparently was often mistaken for merlot); then was discovered again in the 1990’s and rather quickly recognized for its potential in this new environment.

Typically, Carménère is a deeply colored wine that displays appealing berry, coffee and spice notes.  The Colchagua Valley, south of Santiago, is considered the primary source as it is for these wines recommended from my tastings: 2009 Cono Sur “Bicycle” ($11), 2009 Mont Gras Reserva ($15), 2008 Arboleda ($19).

But Carménère is not just a “value” wine in Chile. Numerous wineries are producing refined, complex Carménère. A good example is the 2007 “El Incidente” ($50) from Viu Manent. This inaugural vintage contains the finest grapes from their Colchagua vineyards. Translated as “the incident,” the name refers to a balloon accident from the family’s history. This complex wine shows dark berries, brown spice, and hints of chocolate. It also clearly benefits from the addition of Petit Verdot and Malbec. This 75 year-old family owned winery also produces a wide variety of wines at modest prices.

Despite the excitement for and promise of Carménère, Cabernet Sauvignon still dominates the reds. It tends to show more ripe fruit than, say, Bordeaux but more structure and herbal notes than California. Look for wines especially from the Maipo (just north of Santiago) and Colchagua valleys. My favorites from the tastings: 2008 Los Vascos Reserve ($20) from a winery managed by the Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite), 2007 Santa Rita “Medalla Real” Single Estate ($20), 2009 Cono Sur Organic Cabernet Sauvignon/Carménère ($14).

As for the whites, Chardonnay still rules by volume but Sauvignon Blanc, especially from the Casablanca Valley (west of Santiago near the coast), may turn to be the best white overall. The finest are fresh and crisp and quite aromatic. They tend to display lively fruit and occasionally mineral notes. These showed well in my tastings: Los Vascos $11, 2010 Santa Rita Reserva ($12), 2008 Arboleda ($18).

Actually, like California, Chile has quite a diverse landscape and climate – in this case the Pacific Ocean borders to the west, the Andes Mountains line the east, and the Atacama Desert defines the north. This allows many different grape varieties to be grown successfully. Beyond the varieties already mentioned, there is a lot of merlot and I’ve been reading about the improving Syrah (although neither of these were included in my tastings).

Chile also is turning into a good source of Pinot Noir. One of my favorite producers is Cono Sur, the pioneer of Chilean Pinot Noir. They seek a Burgundian style, with a Chilean accent. The 2009 “Vision” ($15) is a fine expression of the Block 68 Old Vine Vineyard in Colchagua Valley. The 2008 “20 Barrels” ($28) is a limited edition special selection that rewards the effort to select the best lots from their Casablanca Valley vineyards.

Another good Pinot Noir is the Bodegas Corpora 2008 “Llai Llai” ($13). Llai Llai (which means “wind” in the indigenous Mapuche) is a new brand featuring two wines, a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the Bio Bio Valley in the remote southern part of the country, whose cool climate and significant coastal influence offers excellent conditions for these varieties.

Interestingly, Chile is emerging as an innovator in sustainable agriculture. Several of the wineries mentioned in this column employ a variety of sustainable practices – Arboleda (sustainable viticulture, environmental and worker protection), Cono Sur (integrated vineyard management, organic vineyards, carbon neutral delivery), Santa Rita (sustainable viticulture), Bodegas Corpora (organic and biodynamic viticulture, solar energy), Viu Manent (environmental protection, carbon neutral).

One of Chile’s most socially and environmentally responsible businesses is Emiliana, a 25 year-old winery from the family that also manages the iconic Concha y Toro winery. Emiliana is dedicated to producing wines

made from organic and biodynamic grapes. And the winemaking has transitioned to using indigenous yeast. They have earned carbon neutral certification for many of their wines; use recycled and recyclable materials; have reduced packaging; and recycle waste products. Beyond production values, the company certifies good and fair working conditions and supports community projects. They even share profits in ancillary honey and olive oil ventures with the workers.

In addition to the top-of-the-line Coyam and “G” biodynamic wines and the organic Natura and Novas lines, Emiliana has introduced a new line called Eco Balance (from sustainably farmed vineyards in transition to organic status). Priced at an inviting $9 and delivering equally attractive quality, the whites include 2009 Sauvignon Blanc and 2009 Chardonnay (both Casablanca). The reds include 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo), 2008 Merlot (Rapel), and 2008 Carménère (Colchagua).

All in all, my tastings revealed a diverse and impressive showing. For the most part, Chilean wine delivers high quality at reasonable prices, a good combination in any economy.

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LOOK TO SOUTH AMERICA FOR VALUE – PART ONE, ARGENTINA

The popularity of wine Argentina and Chile with American consumers has been growing for a good decade now. And it seems to have escalated since the beginning of the Great Recession. This past year I have read numerous reports in the wine press about the growth in exports of wine from Argentina and Chile worldwide, especially in the U.S.

In keeping with this value theme, the main reason for this popularity seems to be that most of the wines remain modestly priced, even as the quality has improved. In this column, I review Argentina; next month it’ll be Chile.

In Argentina, the star is Malbec, from a minor blending grape in Bordeaux (though important in the southwestern France region of Cahors) that experiences some sort of alchemy in these South American soils. Mendoza is the primary source, though other regions have gotten into the act successfully. The warm days and cool nights of this high desert climate (not unlike Colorado) drape the alluvial soils of the high altitude vineyards in the shadows of the Andes Mountains, making an ideal home for the grape.

Much good quality Malbec can be had for $15 or less. Good options from my recent tastings include the 2009 Arido ($10), 2009 Portillo ($10), 2009 Budini ($13), 2009 Tomero ($14), and 2008 Trapiche “Broquel” ($15). While I enjoyed those, the 2008 La Posta “Cocina” ($15) and 2009 Trivento “Amado Sur” ($15) stood out for their solid structure, fine fruit, and unexpected (for the price) complexity.

For just a little more money expect more fruit and intensity from the 2009 Layer Cake ($16), 2009 Michel Torino “Don David Reserve” ($15), 2007 Rutini ($18), 2009 Bodegas Salentein Reserve ($19), 2008 Cruz Andina ($20), and 2008 Trivento Gold Reserve ($21).

The most expensive Malbec in these tastings, the 2008 Mendel ($30), did turn out to be the best. With it’s firm structure, pure fruit, and refined texture, it may be the best value of all.

Other regions are getting into the act, too. The 2009 Ruta 22 ($13), from the southern region of Patagonia, also showed well. Route 22 is the main road used to travel from the East to the West in Argentina. The vineyards lie in the Neuquen Valley located in the southern region of Patagonia. Keep an eye out for wines from Patagonia.

Those who prefer Cabernet Sauvignon also will find something to love from Argentina. For instance, Andeluna Cellars, near the town of Tupungato in Mendoza, has turned out a 2008 that delivers an amazing amount of cabernet character for a measly $10. Another $10 winner is the 2008 Trapiche Oak Cask. And the 2006 Andeluna Reserve also delivers admirable quality at $20, as does the 2005 Navarro Correas Allegoria Gran Reserva ($19).

Many producers also have found success blending Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2008 Amancaya Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) easy going and flavorful, while the 2006 Andeluna Reserve Celebracion ($20) is more elegant and complex. Although pricier, the 2004 Navarro Correas “Ultra” ($30) delivers added measures of earth, spice and cocoa, while the 2006 Caro ($50) is intense and firm with good depth.

A great surprise in the tasting was the 2009 “Barda” Pinot Noir ($25) from Bodega Chacra in Patagonia. Surprising in that who would have expected such a delicious pinot with a fine balance of ripeness and grace from Argentina?

The most interesting white wine comes from torrontés, which grows most successfully in the northern regions of Salta and La Rioja. The grape makes typically very aromatic wines, with a bit of spice, and floral notes. Expect stone fruits, melon, pear, or tangerine and a light body. The best of my tastings was the 2010 Crios de Susanna Balbo ($15), followed by the 2009 Trivento “Amado Sur” ($15). The 2009 Michel Torino “Don David Reserve” ($15), 2010 Tomero ($14), 2008 Trivento Reserve ($11
) also merit attention. The 2009 Trapiche ($8) and 2010 Callia Alta ($9) are good values under $10.

All in all, an impressive showing. For the most part, Argentina wine delivers high quality and flavor interest at reasonable prices. As producers learn more about Argentina’s terroir and work to reflect that ion their wines, we should expect even more improvement.

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California Cabernet Sauvignon Makes a Classy Holiday Wine Gift

the peoples palate by rich mauro
California Vineyards

The holidays offer a great excuse to splurge on an expensive wine gift, whether for a business associate, friend, loved one, or … even yourself!  If you or someone you know delights in high end California Cabernet Sauvignon, you might be tempted to go on a (probably futile) quest for a so-called Napa Valley “cult cab.” I suggest taking a different approach: pick up one of the Napa Valley icons below.

Beringer Vineyards is one of Napa Valley’s most historic wineries, having been founded in 1876. Through most of its years Beringer has been one of the state’s best producers. For the past 30 years, the Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon has been Beringer’s flagship wine. This is the ultimate reserve wine, in which Beringer’s winemakers work to craft the perfect blend drawing from the very best lots of Beringer’s very best vineyards. In 2007 ($115) this process yielded a complex, concentrated, highly structured wine. The 2008 Private Reserve Chardonnay ($35) also is outstanding.

For a major splurge, you can’t do better than the 2007 Joseph Phelps Insignia ($225). Mr. Phelps, who was a principal in Colorado’s Hensel-Phelps construction company, opened his eponymous winery in 1974. He was an early proponent of blended cabernet-based wines using Bordeaux as a benchmark. And from day one this has been one of California’s best wines. This wine that puts power and luxury all in balance, like a seamless silk garment with fruit, mineral notes, and lush texture all in balance. The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($54) is also fine choice.

You also should look to Sonoma County, which often is overshadowed by Napa’s reputation despite often producing superior wines.  Stonestreet Alexander Mountain Estate is one of the best of the many properties in the Jess Jackson (founder of Kendall-Jackson) wine empire, particularly with the single vineyard and Legacy wines. The vineyards are located along a western ridge of the Mayacamas Mountains overlooking Sonoma’s Alexander Valley. The 2006 “Christopher’s” Cabernet Sauvignon ($100), from a vineyard ranging 2200-2400 feet, is intense and powerful, with vibrant dark fruit. The 2008 Chardonnays: Upper Barn ($65), Red Point ($55), and Broken Road ($55) are just as impressive.

Rodney Strong Vineyards, one of Sonoma’s oldest modern wineries (founded in 1959), has always been a reliable producer of solid value wines. Recently it has elevated its game and has become a top tier producer, especially with its portfolio of special bottlings (Reserve, Single Vineyard and Meritage wines), also from Alexander Valley fruit. The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($45), with its concentrated, wild berry fruit and lush texture, and the 2007 Symmetry ($55), a complex, elegant Bordeaux blend, are excellent examples of their type.  Whatever the occasion, these are wines will make it special.

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Here’s a Toast to the Best of the Rest

Wondering what to do with that gift card for your local wine shop? It’ll be a nice treat to pick up something really good to save for a special occasion. Red or white, look down this column for some surefire options. These are the best wines I tasted this year that I haven’t already reviewed. If you really want to splurge, you can’t do much better than the 2005 Joseph Phelps “Insignia” Napa Valley ($200). This is the 34th vintage of this iconic Bordeaux-style blend. While previous years have included more merlot and malbec, this one sports 92 percent cabernet sauvignon with just a touch of petite verdot and merlot. It is a wine that puts power and luxury all in balance.

While we’re on to Bordeaux-style blends, there are two more fine examples, and at especially attractive prices. The 2004 Rodney Strong “Symmetry” Alexander Valley ($55) is an elegant blend of 71 percent cabernet sauvignon with herbal, chocolate and tobacco notes from additions of merlot, malbec and petite verdot. Barb and Bart O’Brien established their winery just a few years ago when they purchased a vineyard in the Oak Knoll district in California’s southern Napa Valley. Their 2004 O’Brien “Seduction” ($36) is mostly cabernet sauvignon with dollops of merlot and malbec. It is rich with juicy fruit complimented by cocoa and tobacco hints.

If you want to go flat out for a good, solid Napa Valley cabernet, I’ve got some fine choices. From a small family winery, the 2005 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley ($36) uses grapes including Rutherford and Oakville to produce a well-knit wine with luscious oak aromas and rich chocolate flavors. Even more impressive is the 2004 Rutherford Bench Reserve ($55). Abundant fruit is wrapped in creamy oak, delivered in a broad, plump texture. Former Hollywood executive Rich Frank oversees one of Napa Valley’s most hospitable wineries, where tasting is free and wines are really good. The 2004 Frank Family Rutherford Reserve ($85) uses grapes from Frank’s Winston Hill Vineyard on the east side of the valley. It is a large-scale wine with woodsy and mineral notes and strong tannins.

Another surefire option is Washington’s Leonetti Cellars, which celebrates its 30th anniversary with these fine releases. The blend of 63 percent cabernet sauvignon, 13 percent merlot and 17 percent petite verdot for the 2005 Reserve Walla Walla Valley ($125) yields a dense, dark, complex, structured wine. The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley ($80) is a classic, sharply defined cabernet with herbal and minty notes in a polished frame. The 2006 Merlot Columbia Valley ($65) is no ordinary merlot. This one is concentrated with pure, fresh fruit, toasty oak and floral notes. The wines may prove hard to find but they are worth the effort.

For a little variety, look to Parducci, the oldest winery in Mendocino that today is owned by Paul Dolan (formerly of Fetzer). The 2005 “True Grit” petite sirah ($30) is a tribute to the determination of the immigrant farmers who first planted the vineyards. Fresh fruit with mineral hints and powerful tannins make for a wine that is delicious now but should drink well for years.

Chardonnay drinkers should look to Monterey, Calif.-based Pessagno Winery, which specializes in pinot noir and chardonnay from the region’s best vineyards. I recommended some of the pinot noir choices in a previous column, and these chardonnays are great complements. The 2005 “Intrinity” Santa Lucia Highlands ($45) is essentially a reserve with lavish oak and luscious tropical fruit held together with fine acidity. The 2006 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ($32) offers seductive lemon, apple and caramel.

You also should consider Chablis. The wines of this region at the northernmost end of Burgundy are 100 percent chardonnay. The cool climate and high-mineral-content soils (clay and limestone from fossilized oyster shells) produce a unique result that is the reference point for a style of chardonnay with highly focused acidity, little or no oak, and qualities that have been described using words like chalk, stone, mineral, green, steely, and flinty. While such qualities might surprise some, these wines truly reflect their origins.

Although the best-quality wines are not inexpensive, they are much less so than top Burgundies and priced on a par with California’s best. The seven highest-quality vineyards are classified as Grand Cru. The next level, Premier Cru, is more plentiful and often very nearly as good, especially from a top producer like Domaine William Fevre. I loved three of Fevre’s Premier Cru wines. They all offer pure citrus fruit, that characteristic chalk, and a judicious use of oak. The 2005 “Vaillons” ($40) adds an intriguing savory note. The 2006 “Montmains” ($45) shows more peach and tangerine fruit. The 2006 “Fourchame” Premier Cru ($55) is the most complex and minerally.