The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

For some reason, it seems California Sauvignon Blanc has often been an afterthought with consumers. Not only does it consistently play second fiddle in popularity to Chardonnay, it seems there is always a new fave that steals consumer’s attention – Pinot Grigio, even New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc – even if only for a limited time. 

But that may be changing. Growers and winemakers are taking the grape more seriously and quality has improved even as more offerings are available. And people who watch these kinds of things say consumer interest is ticking up. This is good news as there arguably is more good California Sauvignon Blanc on the market than ever.

The grape has a noble heritage as a parent (with cabernet franc) of cabernet sauvignon. It is responsible for the Loire Valley wines of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé and, with semillon, the white Bordeaux of Graves and Sauternes. The grape also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile. 

Its flavor profile comes in several styles, though it’s usually assertively aromatic, with refreshing acidity. Generally, expect brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) but also other citrus, especially grapefruit, and a distinctive (sometimes spicy) herbaceousness. Some also are evocative of fresh cut hay or grass. Wines made from riper fruit often display melon, nectarine or peach, or even tropical fruits. 

While growers are paying more attention to where and how the grape is planted, winemakers are employing creative approaches in the cellar. Usually most of a wine is fermented and aged in stainless steel to emphasize fresh, varietal characteristics but occasionally some of the wine is conditioned with time in other containers, like oak. 

I found a number of “good values” around $20 and under. These tend to be lighter with the focus on varietal fruit but all display the grape’s trademark refreshing character. Think of them as everyday go-tos. 

• 2019 Priest Ranch Napa Valley ($22) native yeasts, stainless steel drums; zesty, intense, citrusy 

• 2019 Bonterra California ($14) made with organic grapes; vibrant citrus and stone fruit, subtle hint of grass 

• 2019 Rodney Strong Charlotte’s Home Sonoma County ($17) apple and tropical fruit, lean and spicy  

• 2019 Imagery California ($20) a value driven brand from the Benziger family; tropical and grapefruit, herbal 

As consumer friendly as these wines are, I found more complexity and flavor interest as prices escalated. 

• 2019 Ehler’s Estate St. Helena ($32) certified organic vineyard, aged sur lie (lees stirring) in stainless drums; succulent, citrus, full-bodied, savory, crisp 

• 2018 Robert Mondavi “Fumé” Napa Valley ($24) the wine that first drew consumer attention to sauvignon blanc about 55 years ago; barrel fermented and aged sur lie with 13 percent Semillon; succulent lemon-lime, fresh, juicy, herbal notes 

• 2018 The Paring Santa Ynez Valley ($25) a project of the owners of Jonata and The Hilt wines (same as the owners of the Denver Nuggets and Colorado Avalanche); aged in 1/3 new French oak, 1/3 neutral French, 1/3 stainless steel; vibrant, tropical fruit, fruity, anise 

• 2019 Clockwise Russian River Valley ($30) from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist MacRostie and vineyards farmed by the respected Dutton family; sauvignon musqué clone; mix of oak and stainless; tangy citrus and stone fruits, plush 

• 2019 Acumen Mountainside ($30) winery focused on Napa Valley hillside vineyards makes this wine from Dry Creek Valley hillside vineyards; 67 percent in neutral oak, 33 percent in stainless steel; piercing citrus, herbs and fresh hay, spicy

• 2019 Ram’s Gate Carneros Estate ($38) 10 percent new French oak, 70 percent neutral barrels, 20 percent stainless steel; juicy tropical fruit, hint of pepper 

In recent years, an elite of wines of exceptional character has emerged to the point where well-known wine author Karen MacNeill has coined the term “Super Sauvignons”. These wines may benefit from the use of several types of fermenting and aging vessels –concrete tanks, new and used oak, stainless steel barrels, and amphorae – for fermentation, along with practices such as lees stirring to build complexity and texture. 

The wines below share a complex profile of bright, ripe fruit, mineral savory notes, and sophisticated, rich textures. And they are cellar worthy. Notably, each winery below is from the Napa Valley. 

• 2019 Spottswoode ($42) combines 2/3 Napa fruit and 1/3 Sonoma fruit, elevated with a combination of French oak, small stainless steel barrels, a clay amphora, and one ceramic and two concrete tanks; balances textural vibrancy and richness, with structure and complexity 

• 2018 Acumen PEAK Atlas Peak Estate ($75) from high altitude Attelas Vineyard, lees stirring; intense citrus and stone fruit, minerals and spicy herbs, oaky richness, supple yet stimulating 

• 2019 Turnbull “Josephine” Oakville ($50) aged in French oak barrels, concrete and amphorae; tropical fruit, lush textyre, stony notes, perky structure

• 2018 Cuvaison Méthode Béton Carneros Estate Grown ($40) the “method” is aging on the lees in concrete eggs (bétons); crisp, persistent, intense, juicy lemon/lime, graceful, yet structured, grassy 

NOTE: Wines are listed in order of preference within each category but all are recommended. 

In this column I introduce you to a few of the wines from two regions less known to American consumers. Both produce (mostly dry) Riesling wines that can equal the quality from Germany. Both also produce remarkable wine wines from other, even lessen known white varieties.

Bordering Switzerland and Germany, Alsace is known primarily for its fresh, aromatic white wines. Riesling, gewurztraminer, and pinot gris comprise over half of all production. They display finesse with a solid structure in a range of styles: dry, off-dry and occasionally dessert. 

Alsatian Rieslings are distinguished with attractive, pure aromas, fresh green apple and citrus fruit, steely or mineral notes. Typically, the wines carry more weight than their German cousins but the aromatics and acidity are just as bracing. 

Get an introduction with the 2016 Mittnacht “Les Fossiles” ($20) – from a family-run estate founded in 1958 and an early pioneer of the biodynamic winemaking movement – for its distinctive paraffin aroma and tangy tangerine fruit; and the fresh, easy drinking, stony edged 2016 Paul Blanck ($16), a producer that traces its history to the 17th century and also focuses on sustainability.

I have to say, though, I am especially attracted to Alsatian Gewürztraminer. While the variety (which translates to “spicy traminer”) originated in the foothills of the Italian Alps near the city of Tramin in the Alto Adige, the most and most prized Gewürztraminer is produced in Alsace. Quite special and unique, it is a great value and pairs nicely with foods such as Thai, Indian, Middle Eastern North African, Asian and Latin American.

I love the unique heady aromas, flavors and textures. The most prominent aroma is lychee, while others have noted tropical, honeydew and grapefruit, rose, ginger, honey, and especially a piquancy often associated with spices like cinnamon. In the mouth it presents with a creamy, unctuous texture along with more body than the typical white wine, even Chardonnay or Viognier. Even though mostly dry, there usually is a sense of mild sweetness but it will be balanced with good acidity.

Get acquainted with the precise, medium-sweet intensity and subtle spiciness of the 2015 Agathe Bursin “Dirstelberg” ($19), a rich, well-structured wine from a winemaker who was born into a family of vintners and established her own small winery in 2000. Or try the exceptional, medium bodied, off-dry, wonderfully rich 2015 Albert Boxler ($32). The Boxler family has been involved in wine since 1673 and have bottled estate wines since 1946. All the vineyards are farmed organically. 

Austrian wines arguably are even less familiar to American consumers, though wine has been made there for two millennia. But that is starting to change. Conveniently, most of the best wines come from regions that straddle the Danube River, particularly Lower Austria (Niederösterreich).  With dramatic improvements over the last few decades, the wines are distinguished for zesty, fruity, elegant qualities. 

Riesling has been grown in Austria at least since the 1700s but only recently has begun to establish a reputation with today’s consumers for quality wines. Almost always dry, they are notable as taut and exuberant, with fresh, fruity citrus, peach and apricot accented with stony traces. 

The 2017 Cobenzl “Ried Preussen” 1ÖTW ($24), from a premier single vineyard in Nussberg just outside of Vienna and from a winery owned by the city of Vienna, is precise, refreshing and juicy. The 2017 Schauer Kitzeck-Sausal ($30), from a vineyard near Austria’s southern mountains, is aromatic, brilliant, and lively with an herbal tinge. Kitzeck is the central settlement in the Sausal mountain range in Southern Styria (Südsteiermark) on Austria’s southern border and one of the highest altitude winegrowing areas in central Europe. 

But Austria’s signature and most widely planted grape is grüner veltliner. It produces an assertive, steely, rich, dry white with a unique piquant aroma and flavor, usually associated with lime (though other citrus and stone fruits can make an appearance), white pepper, and herbs.  

There were four good examples in my tasting:

• 2018 Proidl “Freiheit” ($19). Making wine in Senftenberg in the Kremstal since 1738, Freiheit means freedom and signals this wine comes from some of the first privately owned vineyard land in the region not controlled by the Church or a feudal estate. It offers a touch of white pepper and pleasant juiciness, while remaining light on its feet. 

• 2018 Pollerhof “Phelling” ($24). From a single vineyard near Roschitz in the Weinviertel in the north-east corner of the country about five miles from the Czech border; it is elegant, fresh, fruity and focused, with a touch of minerality and a slight spritz. 

• 2017 Fritsch “Ried Mordthal” 1ÖTW ($29). Located in the community of Oberstockstall-Kirchberg in the Lower Austrian wine growing region of Wagram, Fritsch is a practitioner of biodynamic viticulture. This first class single vineyard wine shows intense, slightly sweet fruit, with stony, herbal notes fruity; it is invigorating yet luscious. 

• 2017 Tegernseerhof “Bergdistel” Smaragd ($33). Sourced from several vineyards around the winery’s base in Dürnstein in the Wachau (only an hour from Vienna), Smaragd indicates the highest classification of ripeness of the grapes typically yielding weightier more complex and richly textured wines. This one displays more tropical fruit with white pepper and herbal touches in an expansive yet nicely defined palate of juicy acidity. 

Since most of us still can’t travel to any of the destinations we would like. I’ve decided to craft a world tour wine values as a temporary replacement.  

Let’s start our tour with stops in South America’s two best known wine countries – a red wine from Argentina and a white wine from Chile.

Argentina’s Mendoza is its signature wine region. The dramatic high-altitude landscape at the foot of the Andes Mountains births many world class Malbecs and even more fine everyday Malbecs and some that combine both qualities into one bottle. Imagine this backdrop as you enjoy the half malbec with syrah and cabernet sauvignon 2018 Domaine Bousquet “Gaia” Red Blend ($20). A pioneer in Tupungato, the highest district in the Uco Valley sub-region of Mendoza, Bousquet also is notable for its commitment to organic production.  

Next, we pass over the Andes to Chile whose wine growing regions are surrounded by the Andes to the east, the Pacific Ocean to the west, the Atacama Desert to the north and ancient glaciers to the south. Visualize this as you sip the 2017 Cono Sur “Bicicleta” Viognier Reserva ($12), a surprisingly tasty wine from an unexpected grape grown in unexpected soil. 

Then, we fly over the Pacific Ocean to New Zealand and on to South Africa.

Geographically, New Zealand’s wine regions, like the country, are divided between the functionally named North Island and South Island. Our tour takes us to the South Island. Here, Sauvignon Blanc, especially from the Marlborough district at the north end of the island, has become New Zealand’s most popular wine. The distinctive heady profile of wines from here is dominated by things green – namely gooseberry, lime, herbs, even fresh grass – and sometimes a hint of pepper. Picture yourself cruising the Marlborough Sounds viewing winding coastline while quaffing the 2018 Spy Valley ($20) makes quite an impression with bracing acidity and bright fruit flavors lemongrass, intense or the 2019 White Cliff Winemakers Selection ($16) decent intensity and length.

Pinot Noir, especially from the Central Otago district at the south end of the South Island, has emerged as New Zealand’s signature red wine. Conjure the district’s mountains near Queenstown or the ocean from Dunedin as you savor the 2018 Loveblock Pinot Noir ($30). It’s bright red fruit, baking spice accents and good concentration, is a good example of why this area has become a benchmark. Industry veterans Kim and Erica Crawford established this artisan winery following the sale of their Kim Crawford brand. 

Now, it is on to South Africa where the wine industry is poised to take its place on the world stage. 

Most South African wine is produced in the Western Cape region, with Cape Town, South Africa’s oldest settlement as its main city. Bordered by the Atlantic and Indian oceans, the region features incredible views of water to the south and mountains to the north. First up is the organic 2019 Aslina Sauvignon Blanc ($19). Made by owner Ntsiki Biyela, the first black woman winemaker in South Africa, this is a wine – herbal, succulent, vibrant – that can rival the best from New Zealand. 

Right now, though, Chenin Blanc arguably is the country’s most successful white wine. South Africa has more plantings of Chenin Blanc than any other wine-producing region (including its home in France’s Loire Valley) – in fact, more than the rest of the world combined! It is my choice for most the distinctive South African white wine. From the Paarl district north of Cape Town, conjure the nearby slopes of the Simonsberg Mountains as you relish the fresh citrus, nectarine and stone fruit of the 2019 Bosman “Generation 8” ($25) or the melon and citrus of the 2019 Backsberg Estate ($14). 

Heading north, we journey to the Iberian Peninsula where we will enjoy wines from Portugal and Spain.

For our tour of Portugal we will enjoy wines from Symington Family Estates, one of the most prestigious wine companies in the country. Their home base is in the striking Douro River Valley, home to the famous Port wines. Evoke the winding river lined with steep terraced vineyards as you imbibe the 2015 Dow’s Late Bottled Vintage Port ($24). Think of it as Vintage Port in style, but not in price. Ready to drink upon release, it can give you a taste of Vintage Port character at a much more affordable price. I especially enjoyed its heady aromas and flavors of sweet berries, cassis, and oak, and a touch of licorice in a full-bodied, lush wine balanced with modest tannins. 

But Portugal has long been a premier source of fine table wine values. For instance, the 2017 Vale do Bomfim ($13) is a “go to” value wine for me. Made with fruit – touriga nacional and touriga franca – from vineyards that supply Dow’s Ports, it suggests dark plum followed by peppery and stony notes and drinks rather firm and full. Under the Prats + Symington label, the 2017 Post Scriptum de Chryseia ($27), also mostly touriga nacional and touriga franca, is more expensive but a lot more wine. It reveals structured but animated fruit matched with fine tannins. It is an earlier drinking version of the flagship Chryseia wine. 

The Alentejo in southern Portugal also is gaining popularity for improved quality and value and for the focus on local grape varieties. And the Symington’s new Quinta Fonte Souto estate in the Portalegre sub-region east of Lisbon has made a big splash with its inaugural releases. Since ‘souto’ refers to the large forested area including a chestnut grove on the property, consider that while you enjoy the aromatic, fruity, creamy yet crisp 2018 “Branco” ($25) – 75 percent arinto/25 percent Verdelho – and the 2017 “Tinto” ($25), mostly alicante bouschet and trincadeira, for its concentrated currants with a lush texture and savory notes.

Nearby Spain has one of the world’s most expansive wine cultures with notable vineyard areas and distinctive native grapes reflecting enormous wine diversity in every region of the country. Arguably the most famous region is Rioja located in the Ebro River Valley in north central Spain. In view of the Sierra de Cantabria Mountains, its vineyards are blanketed with tempranillo vines, Spain’s most planted red grape. The variety typically exhibits cherry fruit and savory notes of cherry, tobacco and spice. Rioja is a good value in all price categories. But the 2016 Vina Real “Crianza” ($17), part of the CVNE stable, is an even more fabulous value for its expressive fruit and fine tannins. Even less expensive, the 2018 Kirkland Reserva ($10) is supple, earthy and fresh. 

And for a nice comparison, the next best-known region is the Ribera del Duero just southwest of Rioja. Here, tempranillo is known as tinto fino or tinta del país and produces several of Spain’s greatest, most expensive wines. The 2017 Bela Crianza ($19) is a good introduction to the area. It has a nice balance of fruit and oak, fresh cherry and plum, with notes of licorice, smoke and dark chocolate, light tannins and lively acidity support the supple texture. 

Spain’s most respected white wine comes from the region of Rías Baixas in Galicia in northwestern Spain, known as “Green Spain”. The reason? Wines from albariño. If you like Sauvignon Blanc but not the herbaceousness so much, you’ll love the bracing citrus and savory qualities of albariño. Imagine the breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean as you savor the bracing, persistent 2019 Bodegas Muriel “Pazo Cilleiro” ($20). 

We finish our tour in France enjoying value “Flower Label” wines from Burgundy by famous négociant Georges Duboeuf. France’s Burgundy region (located in the valleys and slopes west of the Saône River) is famous for red wines made from pinot noir and white wines made from chardonnay.

Its Mâconnais district takes its name from the town of Mâcon and is best known as a source of good value white wines usually labeled Mâcon-Villages. The unoaked 2018 ($23) offers a typical Mâcon character of taut citrus, peach and honeysuckle. The wines from Pouilly-Fuissé traditionally have been popular in the U.S., even though a bit more expensive. The 2018 ($40) is fuller with deeper citrus, apple, and tropical fruit. 

Turn to Beaujolais, located just north of the city of Lyon, for red wine values. Though its main grape is gamay, not pinot noir. Famous for its fresh, fruity, amiable, it is generally best enjoyed slightly chilled. Made using a special whole bunch fermentation process (known as carbonic maceration), it is known for a flavor profile of mostly bright red fruits, floral, herbal and mineral notes, and lively acidity. There are generic Beaujolais wines that can be tasty and particularly affordable and there are Beaujolais-Villages wines like the 2018 ($14), which gives fruity, generous, medium-bodied wines. And then there are top-level wines from specific vineyards near 10 specially designated villages and that fall somewhere in between both in quality and price. The 2018 Morgon ($22) is more concentrated and rich, with fresh, silky tannins. 

Sparkling wine is so popular some version of it is made in almost every country that produces wine. Sadly, most of it is drunk only during holidays or special occasions. Whether it’s called Champagne, Cremant, Sekt, Prosecco, Cava, Spumante, or something else, sparkling wine is the prime choice for celebrations of all types. 

That certainly is understandable. Just as bubbles rise, sparkling wines seem by their very nature to elevate a wine and the wine drinking experience.

My mission here is to convince you to drink sparkling wine throughout the year. Luckily, there are many reasonably priced sparklers to make that an easy choice. And what better time than summer (or fall, winter or spring). That they are best chilled; are versatile with food – available as red, white or pink – and have palate cleansing bubbles, all give them an advantage over most other wines.

NOTE: All wines in this column are nonvintage unless otherwise identified.

While Champagne is the benchmark for sparkling wine, there are good sparklers elsewhere in France. Usually labeled Crémant, these also are made using the “Methode Champenoise” or “Methode Traditionnelle” (meaning the bubbles are created using the method where a second fermentation occurs in the bottle thus trapping the resultant carbonation). Notably, they an affordable alternative. 

I particularly like Crémant d’Alsace. Alsace is better known for amazing Rieslings and Gewürztraminers but its Crémant is produced from the classic Champagne varieties – pinot noir and chardonnay – though pinot blanc, pinot gris and riesling may make it into some blends. A good example is the Lucien Albrecht, Brut Rosé ($23). From a winery that dates to 1698 and was a pioneer in the establishment of the first Alsace Crémants about fifty years ago, this 100 percent pinot noir offers crisp strawberry fruit with finesse and a creamy palate.

One I don’t see very often but enjoyed in my tasting is Crémant de Loire. Gratien & Meyer, a producer of fine sparklers in Saumur for over 150 years has combined Champagne grapes (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) with Loire grapes (Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc for a fine Brut Rosé ($18). 

Italians take their bubbly every bit as seriously as do the French and have been making it nearly as long. Prosecco, the fresh, foamy, fruity frizzante from northeastern Veneto has vaulted in popularity in recent years. Made from the native glera grape in the hills north of Venice, Prosecco (the name of the production zone) unlike the other sparklers in this report is produced using the Charmat Method. In this case, the bubbles are produced by inducing the second fermentation in pressurized stainless steel tanks, instead of the bottle. This preserves glera’s fresh aromas and clean, delicate fruit (pear, citrus, apple and peach) at lower alcohol than most bubbly. 

Founded in 1887, Mionetto today is one of the widest distributed Prosecco brands. Its Prestige Brut ($14) offers a lively, delicate palate. Pasqua, maker of popular value wines for 95 years, name checks Veneto’s star-crossed lovers with an elegant, “Romeo & Juliet” Brut ($16). 

Lambrusco from Emilia-Romagna is enjoying a reintroduction to American consumers as artisan bubbly – exuberantly fruity berries and mostly dry, not the sickly sweet, mass-produced froth of the past. One of the best is Cleto Chiarli, which has been making Lambrusco near Modena in Emilia Romagna since 1860. Chiarli makes only Lambrusco (with the Charmat Method) and uses only estate grapes. I suspect these still may be an acquired taste for some but I think they are delicious, versatile, and flavorful. 

• 2019 Vigneto Cialdini ($17) effusive, luscious, firm, savory 
• 2019 Premium Vecchia Modena ($16) floral, fresh, lively, deeply fruitful
• 2019 Centenario Amabile ($13) succulent, delightfully semi sweet, crisp finish
• Nonvintage Brut di Noir Rosé ($16) tart, juicy, easy drinking 

Cava is Spain’s contribution that has long been a go-to for wallet-friendly fizz. It is typically produced by the traditional method with the indigenous grapes macabeo, xarel-lo, and parellada in the Penedès not far from Barcelona.

Having made wine since 1861, Freixenet produced its first sparkling sparkling wine in 1914 and has grown to be the world’s largest producer of Champagne Method wines. Two of its most popular wines ($15) are the delicate, fresh Cordon Negro Brut and berried, slightly sweet Brut Rosé. 

Codorníu, has been making Cava since 1872 when the family introduced the traditional method to Spain. Its Clasico Brut, made using native grapes, at ($11) is its most popular and accessible wine. It also produces an interesting line using the traditional Champagne grapes. The Anna de Codorníu line is a tribute to the last person in the family that bore the surname Codorníu. The NV Brut Rosé ($15), 70 percent pinot noir and 30 percent chardonnay, focuses on refreshing, lightly sweet cherry and strawberry but also a hint of green apple. 

Segura Viudas is situated on an estate that dates to the 11th century, which may be one reason the owners have such an appreciation on sustainability. Its crown jewel, the full, elegant Reserva Heredad ($30), is blended from just macabeo and parellada and is a fine example of what extra attention like aging on the lees can accomplish. 

California sparkling wine consumption also has grown significantly in recent years, in fact the fastest of all categories in the past year. California makes many truly fine sparkling wines. One of the best comes from the Ferrer family, owner of Spain’s Freixenet, who has been producing highly regarded sparkling wines under the Gloria Ferrer label since 1986 from estate vineyards in Carneros. The Blanc de Noirs ($22) was represented in my tasting. At 92 percent pinot noir and 8 percent chardonnay it showed vibrant cherry and apple, with a creamy palate. Also look for the Sonoma Brut ($22), Blanc de Blancs ($22) and Brut Rosé ($27). 

Roederer Estate, which was founded in Mendocino County in 1981 by the Champagne Louis Roederer family, has long been a favorite of mine. These wines are sourced from organically farmed estate vineyards in the Anderson Valley. Importantly, they add oak-aged reserve wines to each year’s cuvée, a practice common in Champagne, to achieve a characteristic richness and complexity. The Brut ($24) is 60 percent chardonnay and 40 percent pinot noir. 

Also notable in my tasting, the inaugural sparkling wine of a young Sonoma County winery, the 2018 Sosie “Bare Necessity” Sparkling Rosé ($30) benefits from native fermentation and no additives.

Farther north in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Argyle has produced sparkling wine since its founding in 1981. Its 2016 Brut ($28), its foundational wine, is comprised of the traditional Champagne grapes while aging three years on the lees in 30 percent neutral oak. This  adds up to richness with a juicy lemon custard character.

After all this, though, Champagne still is the world’s most prestigious sparkling wine and is considered the standard for other bubbly. Typically blends of pinot noir and chardonnay with dollops of pinot meunier, the best Champagnes expertly balance richness and delicacy. 

A nonvintage Brut is the most widely enjoyed style, partly because it is the most affordable. It also represents the signature style of a Champagne house, as it is blended to achieve a yearly consistency. A good example is the Alfred Gratien Classic Brut ($50). This winery has been making bubbly since 1864 and is one of the last remaining Champagne houses carrying out the entire vinification process using wood. This bottling (mostly chardonnay with pinot noir and pinot meunier) does not undergo malolactic fermentation but is aged five years on the lees and fermented and matured in barriques, giving it a rich texture, with crisp, apple and citrus.

A good nonvintage Rosé also is a special experience. Billecart-Salmon, founded in 1818, has been making Champagne Rosé since the 1840s. Its Brut Rosé ($90), vinified in stainless steel and aged on lees three years, offers crisp red fruits and fresh bread with a rich, slightly spicy palate. 

Finally, sometimes you want something special and Vintage Champagne fits the bill. Such it is with the 2008 Laurent-Perrier Brut Millésimé ($80). Laurent-Perrier has chosen to make vintages very rarely, only selecting the very best years. This one’s luxurious fruit is a perfect example why. Half chardonnay and half pinot noir, it is aged seven years on the lees, yielding enticing ripe citrus and apple, with toasty, creamy, and spicy notes that drink firmly yet elegantly.

As I have noted here, in recent years, Rosé has become quite popular with the American consumer after decades of suspicion. Certainly, there was and continues to be an attraction to sweet blush wines like “White Zinfandel”. 

These days, though, it is the dry (or mostly dry) wines that have enjoyed attention. It seems like every winery in most every wine-producing region produces a pink wine in their portfolio. Luckily, there is more than enough quality among these crimson colored wines to satisfy even serious wine drinkers. 

Europeans have known for a long time the joy of drinking a good dry pink wine. The most common term is Rosé (French) but you may also see Rosato (Italian) and Rosado (Spanish). These days you are more likely to see Rosé.

This popularity is focused on dry wines modeled after European styles, not the sweet “blush” wines that have been popular for years. A variety of red grapes are used and the best wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. They exhibit bright, fresh fruit ranging from strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon. Expect a flavor profile similar to their red siblings, while they drink more like white wines.  

Enjoy these wines as an apéritif or with a full range of light foods. Compare European and American counterparts. Buy a couple of each and compare. 

Because of their vibrant freshness and lively fruit, pink wines are almost always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available. Note, all wines here are 2019 vintage, unless otherwise stated.

There are essentially three ways to make a pink wine. The most common method is to crush red grapes and leave the juice in contact with the grape skins (the source of a wine’s color) only briefly. The second technique is a process called “saignée” in which a certain amount of juice is “bled off” shortly after red grapes are crushed. The third approach involves blending white and red wines to the desired effect.

Among Rosé devotees, France is the prime source. There is a dizzying array of French Rosés from all over the country (including Alsace, Loire, Champagne and Bordeaux) but most notably the south – places like Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, Bandol, Rhône Valley, and Tavel. 

Provence in particular, the area along the Côte d’Azur, has a long history with Rosé as a prominent drink. And the Côtes de Provence appellation, where the wines are mostly grenache (often with cinsault and syrah), is especially popular. Coincidentally, my recommended wines are from wineries located a short distance from Saint-Tropez. Since you can’t travel there right now, imagine looking over the Mediterranean while sipping one of these delicate, refreshing wines.

From Château Minuty, an 18^th century estate using sustainable methods, there is the fragrant and floral, lightly spicy and tart but smooth “M de Minuty” ($23) and the estate grown “Prestige” ($30) offering a suggestion of creaminess. Domaine Cala, owned by Los Angeles celebrity Chef Joachim Splichal, has produced the savory, estate grown “Classic” ($18). A historic property, Commanderie de Peyrassol offers the fresh, crisp, juicy Cuvée de la Commanderie ($20). 

The nearby Côtes du Rhône is a fine source of good values. The Cellier des Dauphins Reserve ($11) shows a surprising textural component at this price from aging a short time on the lees. And Domaine La Manarine ($14) from its perch near Avignon and Château Mourgues du Grès “Fleur d’ Eglantine” ($14) from the Costières de Nîmes subregion both feature organic viticulture. 

Rhône/Provençal style wines also are popular in among many California wineries. Try another organic from Mendocino County’s Bonterra ($16) for its. I also found two good value wines from Paso Robles. Smashberry ($13) from Miller Family Vineyards, a large vineyard owner in Paso Robles, and Pink Pedals ($15) an all grenache wine from Chronic Cellars owned by two brothers whose family owns the highly regarded Peachy Canyon winery.  

While Rosé is produced in Burgundy, particularly from the village of Marsannay it is a minor production. But many California wineries have latched on to pinot noir as the grape of choice for Rosé. This is likely because the grape typically produces lighter colored wines anyway and tends to reveal its primary aromas and flavors at earlier ripeness than, say, cabernet sauvignon. 

And these were some of the favorites of my tasting, especially the Rodney Strong Russian River Valley ($25), which shows juicy fruit, good body and flavor interest worthy of serious food. The MacRostie Russian River Valley ($28) with fruit from a block of Thale’s Vineyard, the Jackson Estate Panorama Vineyard ($30) with fruit from a vineyard in Arroyo Seco, and Pisoni Vineyard’s “Lucy” ($19) from the Santa Lucia Highlands were not far behind in enjoyment. 

Similarly, Bordeaux produces a small amount of Rosé. But Napa’s Ehlers Estate Sylviane ($32), made with cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, turned out to be my favorite of the tasting. New winemaker Laura Díaz Muñoz has a winner with this one for its intense flavor, minerality creamy texture. 

From Italy’s Veneto region, the Pasqua “11 Minutes” ($20) reflects vineyards that line the shores of Lake Garda. This wine is half the native corvina and surprisingly one-fourth the white trebbiano. 11 minutes refers to the length of time the winemaker allows for contact between juice and skins. From California, the 2018 Oak Ridge OZV Primitivo ($15) is intriguing to this longtime Zinfandel afficionado, as primitivo (originating from Apulia) is zinfandel’s genetic sibling. 

In Spain, tempranillo is the major red grape and the Cune Rosado ($14) stands out for its darker color, a result of longer skin contact yielding a more full-flavored wine. For a California version, “Rose Against the Machine” ($24), by Napa Valley’s Anarchist Winery uses Clarksburg fruit to produce a wine with razor sharp acidity. 

Finally, for those of you who still prefer sweet, quaffable wines, Ron’s Chillable Pink ($13) from River Road Vineyards in Sonoma fits the bill with soft fine/foamy bubbles. And only 7.1% alcohol. 

Readers of this column, please tell me why you aren’t drinking more (or any) Riesling. Wine writers (including myself), sommeliers, and most other wine professionals have touted the virtues of this wine for decades. But sales data show Riesling is still at best an afterthought for wine consumers. 

Still, the wines are special, with the ability to combine luscious fruit with bracing acidity into a restorative elixir. Typically, they are light but full flavored and low (sometimes quite low) in alcohol. And top German Rieslings can be some of the longest lived wines anywhere. So, I am determined to persist in my advocacy. And yet I can think of some reasons why consumers are skeptical. 

Part of the problem is the misconception Riesling is always sweet. “It’s too sweet”, I often hear. For many years, sweet wines were big sellers in this country and there was plenty of simple, cheap Riesling. Now, many drinkers think all sweet wines are inferior quality to dry wines. That’s never been true and I’ll try again to convince you of that.

“What, you mean it can be dry, too?” With that one, I think many American consumers just have no idea what to expect. Ironically, dry (or at least off-dry) is the most common style of Riesling around the world. 

And when it comes to German Riesling, the subject of this column, there are additional challenges. And it begins with the labels. There is a lot of valuable but hard to decipher information. And it’s not always easy to discern which rieslings are dry and which have some degree of sweetness (though some have taken to including a scale on the back label showing where the wine lands from dry to sweet).

Let me give you some tips to increase the probability of picking a quality wine – designated on the label as Qualiätswein. This indicates a wine from an officially sanctioned grape; grown in one of the 13 designated wine regions; and has passed the official quality wine test. 

Another helpful indicator of quality is the classification model of the VDP, a national association of nearly 200 wineries committed to the highest quality. While not part of the official German wine law and admitting excellent wine is available from nonmembers, its eagle logo on a bottle does signal the wine is from a seriously quality minded estate. At the tip of the quality pyramid is the “Grosse Lage” (Great Site – equivalent of Grand Cru in France) designation of a highest quality vineyard. 

If you are interested in the traditional “fruity” style (this style is my favorite) look for Qualitätswein mit Prädikat or Prädikatswein on the label. This indicates a wine made with grapes harvested at legally determined ripeness levels producing special characteristics, namely a naturally occurring balance of sweetness and acidity. There are six levels; three are reviewed here. Each of the wines below is from a Grosse Lage (great vineyard). 

Kabinett. Fine, light wines from ripe grapes usually slightly sweet with low alcohol 

• 2018 Schloss Johannisberg Rotlack ($42) ripe, rich, expressive, graceful
• 2018 Maximin Grünhäus Bruderberg ($38) balanced, elegant, lush, intense
• 2018 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten ($28) spicy, earthy, juicy, intense, zesty, 
• 2018 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer ($26) fine, delicate, mineral, lush, bracing
• 2018 Dr. Loosen “Blue Slate” ($22) fresh, juicy, stony 

Spätlese. Very ripe, elegant with ripe fruit from later harvest; more intense in flavor and concentration andusually sweeter

• 2018 Schloss Johannisberg Grunlack ($60) bright, delicate, spicy, lush
• 2018 Maximin Grünhäus Herrenberg ($50) dense, piercing, mineral, opulent, tropical 
• 2018 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer ($34) concentrated, mineral, sleek, firm, herbal
• 2018 Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppchen ($34) red slate, well built, minerals 

Auslese. Exceptional sweet wines from fully ripe, botrytis-affected (also known as noble rot) grapes; best as dessert; all are 375ml bottles 

• 2018 Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg ($164) exuberant, mineral, layered, amazing intensity, piquant, lush, generous, precise, elegant, rich, 
• 2017 Dr. Loosen, Ürziger Würzgarten ($64) tropical, rich, spicy, intense, mineral, elegant, herbal, succulent
• 2018 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr ($56) luscious but structured, luxurious

The super sweet, super rare and super expensive “Beerenauslese”, “Trockenbeerenauslese” and “Eiswein” categories are not covered in this column.

I love the Prädikat wines, but it is the dry wines (“trocken” on the label) that are creating the most attention these days. However, there is a challenge for consumers as they can taste austere upon release compared to the soft, broad white wines we typically taste in the U.S. So, often, they require the patience of at least a few years to integrate, something that we consumers usually don’t have the patience for. Although they are worth the weight, luckily, the wines in my tasting present as more friendly for early consumption, which is consistent with reports about the 2018 vintage. 

At the peak of quality are the Grosses Gewächs, wines from Grosse Lage sites (often in special bottles embossed with the “GG” grape logo). An important feature of GGs is that naturally high acidity provides the foundation for remarkable aging potential. The wines below are bracing, fruitful, and firm with dramatic impact at first tasting. Interestingly, they were slightly different but even better the next day I tasted them. Mainly because the acidity had resolved a bit and allowed intense fruit to emerge. 

• 2018 Schloss Johannisberg Silberlack ($90) powerful yet balanced, pure, concentrated, refined  
• 2018 Maximin Grünhäus Abtsberg ($70) delicate frame yet a rich, complex fresh fruit with herb and mineral profile, generous 
• 2017 Dr. Loosen, Wehlener Sonnenuhr “Alte Reben” ($54) from old vines, focused, refined and fresh 

The following trocken wines are more friendly and approachable, displaying vibrant structure balanced with elegance. 

• 2018 Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg ($55) from an Erste Lage (or premier vineyard), intense, refined, definitive, juicy, stony, elegant, spice, mineral, graceful, luscious
• 2018 Wittmann Niersteiner ($34) from an Erste Lage, vibrant, supple, intense, lithe, rich
• 2018 Wittmann Riesling Estate ($20) bright, elegant, stony, forceful 
• 2018 Robert Weil ($20) intense, tangy, herbal, mineral 
• 2018 Fritz Haag ($20) brisk, delicate, mineral
• 2018 Dr. Loosen Red Slate ($18) floral, spicy 
• Fritz Haag Braunberger Tradition ($20) feinherb, delicate, light, fresh
• Robert Weil Tradition ($20) moderately sweet, fruity, lively

At the risk of adding to the confusion, I also really enjoyed several off-dry or semi-dry or semi-sweet wines (depending on your taste sensitivities). See what I mean. Two were labeled “feinherb” (meaning off-dry) and two were labeled “Tradition” but such labeling is optional. You may also see the term halbtrocken, a regulated term meaning half dry. 

• Maximin Grünhaus Abstberg Superior ($64) beautifully medium-dry, juicy, mineral, herbal, firm
• 2018 Schloss Johannisberg Gelblack ($35) feinherb, delightfully accessible sweet/ tart with mineral tinge
• 2018 Fritz Haag Braunberger Tradition ($20) feinherb, delicate, fine mineral, fresh
• 2018 Robert Weil Tradition ($20) moderately sweet, delicate, fruity, lively

Ultimately, my message is these wines are so good the challenges shouldn’t keep you from enjoying them. 

Chardonnay’s place at the pinnacle of popularity in the U.S. has lasted for nearly four decades. It is the most planted grape and number one in sales volume. I guess this shouldn’t be a surprise. Its adaptability to different growing conditions and winemaking styles at least partly explains this. 

There was a period of winemaking excess, primarily characterized by what is now considered overuse of oak. This eventually spurred a bit of a backlash, particularly among proponents urging consumers to drink ABC – Anything but Chardonnay. But consumers didn’t listen and kept drinking all styles. It seems the consumers’ motto has been Always Buy Chardonnay. 

More recently, winemakers have found a better balance. With Burgundy as the benchmark, what has been described as traditional practices – use of new oak barrels for fermentation and aging, malolactic fermentation, and aging on the lees – employed judiciously and tailored to the quality of the fruit, can produce delightfully balanced and enticingly complex wines. 

Done right, this produces in the best Chardonnays (in my opinion) wines of lush texture with vibrant acidity accented variously with notes of cream, butter, toast, vanilla, baking spice, butterscotch and nuts. The fruit will be intense and the grape’s natural citrus may be joined with apple, pear, peach, melon, fig or tropical fruit, depending on the climate of the vineyard and the ripeness at harvest. 

With such an enviable combination of body and depth with refreshing acidity, it’s not surprising Chardonnay has been such a success. The wines below (in order of my personal preference but all are recommended) deftly walk the line between opulence and freshness, pure fruit and richness, delivering complexity with oak influence more as seasoning than dominant flavoring. 

Most impressive in my tasting this year were four single vineyard wines from Ramey Wine Cellars, which I found emblematic of this style. Founded in 1996 by prominent winemaker David Ramey and his wife Carla (who handles the business side) after nearly twenty years at some of California’s best wineries, Ramey Wine Cellars is one of California’s leading, family-owned and operated wineries.  

The winery produces more than two dozen different wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux blends, Syrah, and Pinot Noir from vineyards in the Napa Valley and Sonoma County. But it is Chardonnay that has most distinguished Mr. Ramey throughout his forty-year career, during which he has become one of the most influential winemakers in California. And his record of success enables him access to some of the most highly regarded vineyards. 

These 2016 vintage wines (each $65) are lush yet structured, self-possessed yet robust, richly textured yet balanced with ebullient acidity. It was impossible to pick a favorite. 

• Ritchie Vineyard (Russian River Valley) dramatic impact, luscious oak, loads of mouthwatering fruit, luxurious palate 
• Rochioli Vineyard (Russian River Valley) concentrated, focused, powerful, balanced with graceful texture 
• Woolsey Road (Russian River Valley) bursting with zesty, well defined fruit, richly textured 
• Hyde Vineyard (Carneros) intense, precise, juicy, elegantly textured 

The wines below (in order of personal preference) deftly walk the line between opulence and freshness, pure fruit and richness, delivering complexity with oak influence more as seasoning than dominant flavoring. 

2017 Blue Farm Laceroni Vineyard ($70). Located in the southwestern Russian River Valley near Graton, this is oaky rich, concentrated, and lively, with hints of cinnamon. 

2017 MacRostie Dutton Ranch ($46). This Russian River Valley vineyard is one of the most prestigious in California. This example offers toasty oak, rich fruit; drinks fresh but soft. 

2018 Lombardi Sonoma Coast ($44). Blends its fruit nicely and balances definition, richness, and juicy acidity with creamy notes. 

2018 Chappellet Grower Collection El Novillero Vineyard ($49). This Carneros based wine shows brisk fruit, light creaminess, and a supple finish.

2017 Oceano Spanish Springs Vineyard ($38). This San Louis Obispo vineyard presents forward fruit, hint of oak, drinks firmly.

2017 Ram’s Gate Sonoma Coast ($46) opening freshness softens and broadens in the finish 

2017 Duckhorn Huichica Hills Vineyard ($58). Carneros fruit provides a nicely spiced, lightly buttery, rich wine.

2018 Frank Family Carneros ($38). Lush texture is balanced with a linear streak. 

For decades in California, pinot noir frustrated even the best winemakers. In recent years, though, California has begun to figure out the grape. Today, there are numerous appellations along a 500-mile stretch from Mendocino to Santa Barbara sourcing fine Pinot Noir. 

Especially during the last two decades, growers and winemakers have focused more on making food-friendly wines more reflective of their origins. They have identified vineyard sites characterized by proximity to a body of water (the Pacific Ocean or a river) and the associated fog and cool breezes leading to long growing seasons enabling optimal ripeness and naturally fresh acidity. 

And the wine’s popularity has surged. According to Nielson, Pinot Noir was the fifth most popular California wine in 2019, based on volume and sales (after chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, red blends, and pinot girgio/gris).

Pinot Noir at its best is all expression of its source. Wine industry folks use terms like appellation and especially terroir to encapsulate the influence of all the factors – climate, soil, surroundings and humans – that contribute to the making of a wine. With quality Pinot Noir, these seem to be even more important than with other wines.

In the glass, the best wines typically reveal pure red (mostly cherry) fruit with integrated forest, earth (occasionally mushroom), and brown spices, all delivered with a silky but fresh texture. The wines below are the best I tasted in recent months. 

The prices for such high-level wines (from the best producers and most renowned sites) are similarly high but consumer interest has remained even as prices have risen. Expect higher quality and smaller quantity, especially with vineyard designated wines. The best place to look for good values – high quality and lower price – are the appellation designated wines. And one could argue that single vineyard wines are not uniformly better than appellation but just different expressions of the grape.

Remote, rugged and sparsely populated, the Anderson Valley of Mendocino County is an unexpected (for some) source of fine Pinot Noir. About 110 miles north of San Francisco, the valley has a cool climate with ocean influences like fog despite running parallel Pacific. Not surprisingly, it has drawn the attention of wineries based in other regions. The wines tend to a lean, elegant style, with focused red fruits, and savory nuances. 

Cakebread. A respected Carneros Napa Valley producer who recognized the promise of Mendocino. From two estate vineyards, the 2017 Two Creeks Vineyards ($45) shows red fruits and herbs with its firm and slightly sweet presentation. 

Domaine Anderson. Owned by the French Champagne company Louis Roederer, which also owns fine Mendocino sparkling wine producers Roederer Estate and Scharfenberger, the 2015 ($40) is concentrated, earthy, and spicy. It has a tight structure but is welcoming. 

Goldeneye. The Duckhorn wine company, respected producers of Napa Valley Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, began acquiring vineyards in the Anderson Valley 25 years ago. Its 2017 wines are pricy but deliver the goods. 

• Ten Degrees ($125) big, ripe, assertive, balanced 
• Confluence Vineyard ($86) oaky, earthy 
• The Narrows Vineyard ($86) juicy, plump, tight 
• Split Rail Vineyard ($86) juicy, full 

Masút. An outlier geographically in this group as it is actually located in the nearby Eagle Peak AVA, this winery and vineyard is owned by the Fetzer family, an iconic name in Mendocino.  Masút is a Native American word meaning “dark, rich earth”. The 2016 Estate Vineyard ($40) is unique in this group for its blueberry fruit with spice and anise.  

Siduri Wines. Adam and Dianna Lee founded Siduri in 1994. A Pinot Noir specialist that now produces close to two dozen different Pinot Noirs throughout California and Oregon, Siduri’s first ever wine was from Anderson Valley. The 2017 Siduri ($40) shows deep, juicy black and red fruits, forest floor/underbrush but still tastes fresh and crisp, and is broad, and welcoming. 

Would you be surprised to hear that Sonoma County is considered one of the premier producers of Pinot Noir on the planet? When I first became interested in wine over forty years ago, I mostly associated Sonoma with Zinfandel, Chardonnay, Bordeaux-style wines and field blends. The fact that a few pioneers were producing notable Pinot Noir at the time flew under my radar.

Now, that has changed, especially for the Russia River Valley and Sonoma Coast AVAs (American Viticultural Area, a legally delineated growing region similar to an appellation in France). Over the last couple decades as growers and winemakers realized such cool climate sites tend to produce the best pinot noir grapes, the appeal of regions in proximity to bodies of water, most notably the Pacific Ocean and the Russian River, for the associated fog and cool breezes, increased dramatically. 

Occupying the center of Sonoma County, the Russian River Valley travels west roughly from Healdsburg to Guerneville in its north and Santa Rosa to Occidental in its south. Most pinot noir is grown in the western and southern areas. One such area is the separately identified Green Valley AVA near Occidental. It tends towards slightly cooler mornings but warmer afternoons. 

Closer to the Pacific in the western reaches of Sonoma, the Sonoma Coast extends from San Pablo Bay in the south to the border with Mendocino County in the north. The appellation is generally even cooler and experiences more rain than the Russian River Valley. But most vineyards are above the fog line, resulting often in slightly warmer weather. 

Within the expansive Sonoma Coast AVA, the Fort Ross – Seaview AVA settles in the northern reaches overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Vineyards within this area are generally located on high elevation ridges and slopes. The Petaluma Gap AVA is nestled in the southern end just 25 miles north of San Francisco. Its vineyards dot valleys and hillsides and are noted for the afternoon wind and fog that rolls in from Bodega Bay to the east.

Benziger. Initially from its ranch on Sonoma Mountain, this family has been a leader in sustainable, organic and biodynamic farming since the early 1980s. From its biodynamic de Coelo Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast (between Freestone and Bodega), its “Quintus” (2016, $69) is a special block that in this vintage shows a dark profile, with a linear streak, finishing with anise and spice.

Blue Farm. After nearly four decades in winegrowing and winemaking with Buena Vista and Donum Estate, Anne Moller-Racke is now devoted to Blue Farm, a project she started with planting a vineyard (in 2001) behind her historic farmhouse in Carneros. It now includes wines sourced from throughout Sonoma County. Her 2017 King Ridge Vineyard ($85), from the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA, is polished and velvety, concentrated yet balanced. 

J. Bucher. Having operated an organic dairy farm for many years, the Bucher family branched out in 1997 with the planting of the Bucher Vineyard in Russian River Valley. They began making estate grown wines in 2011, with the hiring of Siduri’s Adam Lee as winemaker. The 2017 Bucher Vineyard ($40) is complex mix of dark fruits, earth, spice, forest and saline note, deep, intense, spicy, crisp acids. Two special selections from the Bucher Vineyard – the rich, ripe, mouthwatering, slightly savory 2017 Pommard Clone ($55) and the intense but balanced, lush and lively 2017 Three Sixty ($65), from two blocks of Dijon clones – impressed.

Chappellet. From a winery that has been producing highly prized Napa Valley wines since 1967, its Grower’s Collection presents single vineyard wines from selected, highly respected growers in Sonoma County. Two from Russian River Valley – the deeply fruited, savory complex 2018 Dutton Ranch ($49) from a legendary vineyard and the luxurious, earthy, herbal 2018 Apple Lane Vineyard ($60) from the Green Valley, also farmed by the Dutton family – earned my respect. 

Emeritus. This Pinot Noir specialist was established in 1999 by Brice Cutrer Jones, originator of the wildly popular Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay. The winery produces wines from estate vineyards in the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. The 2017 Hallberg Ranch ($45) from Green Valley is juicy, elegant yet forceful. The 2017 Pinot Hill ($60) from a vineyard in the southern Sonoma Coast is refined and bracing with a note of sea spray. 

Gary Farrell. Since 1982, this winery has gained prestige for single vineyard wines from top Russian River Valley vineyards. Since 2012, the winemaking has been under the skilled stewardship of Theresa Heredia. The wine in my tasting, the tangy, juicy, slightly savory 2017 Russian River Selection ($45), featuring a select blend of barrels, blocks, and vineyards, expresses the essence of the valley. 

Lombardi. In 2013, after years in the wine industry, Tony and Christine Lombardi established their own winery, working with a variety of respected growers, especially near Petaluma. Their 2018 Sonoma Coast ($48) represents that AVA with bright, lively, fruit and prominent spice. The 2018 Hill Justice ($68) from a Sonoma Mountain vineyard on the eastern edge of the Petaluma Gap is structured yet elegant with forest notes. The 2018 Giusti Ranch ($68), which dates to the 1870’s in the Russian River Valley, is full and enticing, bright and juicy, with a cola note. 

MacRostie. An early pioneer of Sonama Coast, Steve MacRostie has worked with top Sonoma growers since 1987 and now has estate vineyards in the Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley. From the latter, the 2017 Thale’s Vineyard ($58) presents lively, juicy fruit, with earth and spice. The 2017 Sonoma Coast ($34) is vibrant, lightly earthy, and gently tannic.

Ram’s Gate. Founded in 2011 in Carneros, now transitioning to organic production, Ram’s Gate sources grapes from throughout the county. The 2017 Sonoma Coast ($46) is dark fruited, fresh but lush, lightly woodsy, finishing with noticeable tannin.

Roger Roessler. Having spent over 40 years opening and running dozens of restaurant businesses, mostly in Durango, Santa Fe, and Albuquerque, Roger Roessler founded this winery in 2000. The 2017 “Red Birds” Sonoma Coast ($45) is nicely balanced, fresh with light mushroom. The 2018 “Black Pine” Russian River Valley ($30) balances full fruit with earthy and red pepper notes.

Ron Rubin. The owner of The Republic of Tea with a forty-year career in the beverage industry entered the wine business in 2011 with the purchase of River Road Vineyards and Winery in the Green Valley. The 2017 River Road Stephanie’s Cuvée ($30), the portfolio’s most expensive wine, has pure fruit, with a note of cinnamon. The 2017 Ron Rubin Russian River Valley ($25) is pure, direct, and spicy. 

Siduri. Siduri’s appellation wines are fine expressions of each selected growing region. The 2017 Russian River Valley ($40) exudes warmth with light spice and juicy fruit. 

Three Sticks. A family-owned winery founded in 2002 and led by vineyard owner Bill Price and winemakers Bob Cabral (formerly of Williams-Selyem) and Ryan Pritchard (worked several years at Colorado’s Boulder Creek Winery). The 2018 Price Family Estates ($65) from Sonoma Coast is deeply fruited, precise, lush, and lightly oaky. The 2018 Russian River Valley ($65) offers amazingly well-integrated fruit, luscious texture, and energetic structure.  

Straddling the southern reaches of Sonoma and Napa counties, Carneros rises from the San Pablo Bay. Carneros has transformed from sheep and dairy ranches to prime vineyard land over the last fifty years. Cooled by fog and winds from the bay, the resulting wines typically display admirable delicacy, balance and freshness. 

Blue Farm. From that estate vineyard behind her Carneros farmhouse I mentioned above, the 2017 Anne Katherina Vineyard ($65) is enticingly floral and silky. 

Cuvaison. This winery has been farming Carneros since 1969. Its 2017 “Swan” ($65) bottling is distinguished by a vibrant, balanced character. The Swan pinot noir clone is an heirloom selection from its estate. 

Artesa. Owned by Cordoniu, Spain’s oldest winery and the originator of Cava (Spanish sparkling wine). Its 2016 Los Carneros ($28), a really fine value, is refined and luscious, with notes of herbs and spice. 

Frank Family. 2017 ($38) This Napa Valley winery sourced fruit from the highly regarded Sangiacomo and Beckstoffer vineyards and the estate Lewis vineyard. It is sleek, earthy and spicy, while richly textured.

Certain microclimates in Monterey County enjoy a balance between cool Monterey Bay breezes from the west and the warming influences from the Salinas Valley to the east. 

Just inland from the bay, the vineyards of the Santa Lucia Highlands are planted on the hillsides of the Santa Lucia mountain range overlooking the Salinas Valley. There are many fine, pricy wines being produced from here. My tasting included two really good values. From mostly estate vineyards with some purchased fruit, the vibrant 2017 Siduri ($30) is a fine representation of the viticultural area. Made with Santa Lucia Highlands and Arroyo Seco (a few miles to the south) fruit, the 2018 J. Lohr “Falcon’s Perch” ($17) is a very good value with fresh, firm, savory; bright, lively red fruits, herbal notes and a hint of sweetness.

Just to the south of Monterey, San Louis Obispo county gets less attention for its wine regions, except for Paso Robles, which has emerged in the past two decades as a world class viticultural area. Beyond that there are a number of notable vineyards, many within just five miles of the Pacific Coast.

Oceano. Grapes are sourced from its estate Spanish Springs Vineyard, which they claim is the closest vineyard to the ocean in California, just 1.5 miles from Pismo Beach. Their 2018 ($45) is a bit closed right now but will improve as its herbal, woodsy qualities integrate with its focused red fruits.  

Santa Barbara County sports two regions of note – Santa Maria Valley and Santa Ynez Valley, especially Santa Rita Hills. The Santa Rita Hills in particular are notable for their east-west orientation, which funnels cooling Pacific Ocean breezes throughout the valley, has become a magnet for top Pinot.

Sea Smoke. Planted thirty years ago, the Sea Smoke estate vineyard is biodynamically farmed. The 2017 “Southing” ($70) is a selection of blocks intended to reflect the variety and complexity of the vineyard. Lush, intense, lightly minty, it is rich, full, and persistent.

The Hilt Estate. Just a few miles away from Sea Smoke, Hilt’s north-facing vineyards occupy the southwest corner of the Santa Rita Hills. The 2017 ($45) blends estate fruit with grapes from Santa Barbara’s famous Sanford & Benedict vineyard. It is pure, elegant, savory. 

Finally, you should snap up the 2017 Calera Central Coast ($30) the first chance you get. Comprised of fruit from ten vineyards throughout the Central Coast from Monterey to Santa Barbara, this wine is amazing for being such an amalgam (and at this price). It presents red and black fruits, earthy/underbrush notes, hints of spice, and star anise. 

Early this past March, Italy became the European epicenter of the COVID-19 pandemic and the first to impose a nationwide lockdown. And northern Italy, including the Veneto and Piemonte, was the hardest hit. This is the fourth and last of my series of columns on Italian wine regions; I pay tribute to these regions (and the nearby Alto Adige) as the country slowly opens up. 

First up, the Veneto is home to cultural touchstones like Venice, Padua and Verona. And to important wine growing regions, particularly for the purposes of this column the province of Verona. These days, the Veneto’s most popular wine is the bubbly Prosecco but Soave (white) and Valpolicella (red) in the area around Verona, after years of mass production, have reemerged in recent years as fine, affordable wines.

Two of the best producers in the region are Azienda Agricola Inama and Tenuta Sant’Antonio. Inama is particularly notable for impressive Soave from the Classico zone, the original area of production. The indigenous garganega is the primary white grape, typically yielding crisp wines suggesting citrus, honeydew, and a touch of appealing bitterness. I found the 2019 “Vin Soave” ($16), the entry-level Soave Classico aged in stainless steel to be a fantastic value. A single vineyard wine, the 2017 “Vignetti di Carbonare” ($28) is richer and more complex. 

Tenuta Sant’Antonio is operated by the Castagnedi family, which has tended vineyards in the Valpolicella area for over one hundred years and now produces organically farmed, estate-grown wines including Soave but are best known for Valpolicella and Amarone. The native corvina is the most important grape in these blends. Entry level Valpolicella, like the 2018 Nanfrè ($15), which saw no oak, typically are fresh and light, offering tart red cherry and hints of cinnamon. 

At the tip of the Valpolicella pyramid is Amarone della Valpolicella. Amarone is typically the flagship of a producer. It is a special type of Valpolicella made using the ancient “appassimento” process, which involves drying the grapes to concentrate the juice. 

The 2015 Sant’Antonio “Selezione Antonio Castegnedi” ($47), with three months of appassimento, is a fine representative amply displaying the power and deep dark fruits, hints of baking spice, mocha, smoke and tobacco typical of this raisiny, complex wine. Another really good example comes from Familia Pasqua (2015, $50). It is a plump, fleshy accessible wine, with generous notes of blackberry and dried plum, spice, tar and leather. 

An in between style, Valpolicella Ripasso achieves richer flavors by macerating fresh Valpolicella with grape materials remaining after Amarone fermentation. The result is a wine like the 2017 Sant’Antonio Monti Garbi ($22) with its intense black fruits and admirable complexity.

In the northeast corner of Italy, in the shadow of the Dolomites, Italy’s Alto Adige is largely known for producing crisp, aromatic white wines from a range of indigenous varietals. Red wines from the region’s native grapes, such as lagrein and teroldego, are growing in recognition as well. 

Alois Lageder, a family owned winery with six generations of winemaking near Bolzano, has emerged as arguably the most influential producer in the region. Respecting traditional winemaking methods, while working to advance biodynamic farming, if you like crisp white wines, you must try these.

For fine entry level values, get the 2018 Pinot Grigio ($16) – brisk citrus, melon, and quinine with a tight structure and spicy finish and the 2018 Pinot Bianco ($15) – delightfully aromatic, lime and lemongrass with a rounded palate. These wines are amazing values. 

Lageder also produces impressive special selections.  These next two wine exemplify Lageder’s reputation as an innovator. A very successful experiment, the 2017 Pinot Grigio “Porer” ($26) blends freshly pressed juice with juice fermented on the skins and some on skins and stems, an unusual process for white wines. The blended wine was aged both in stainless steel and large oak casks. While I found the aroma subdued, the palate is ebullient with zesty melon, citrus and stone fruits and a lush texture. The 2018 Manzoni Bianco “Forra” ($31) is made from a rare variety, a cross between riesling and pinot bianco. It offers lots of citrus, apple and apricot, with brisk acidity and a sumptuous texture. 

West of Milano, Piemonte rests in view of the western Alps but is also influenced by proximity to the Mediterranean. While Tuscany is arguably Italy’s best-known province, Piemonte is equally prized for its food and wine. Here, nebbiolo reigns as does sangiovese in Tuscany. Similarly, its best wines carry other, usually place names like Barolo and Barbareso. Typically, these wines offer red berry fruit notes with tight, grippy tannins and are some of the most expensive from Italy. 

I recently tasted two good examples at more affordable prices. Founded in 1878 in the Roero subregion in the southern Piemonte near the town of Cuneo, Enrico Serafino is a premier producer of sparkling wines but also Piemonte’s other signature wines. The 2015 Barolo “Monclivio” ($40), from grapes grown on the neighboring Langhe hillsides, shows fruity red berry, with hints of sweetness, eucalyptus, oak and the woods before firm tannins close. 

Another good introduction is the 2015 Barolo ($45) from winemaker and owner Luca Bosio, located in the heart of the Langhe. It is a bit darker fruited and quite earthy. And a nice comparison with a different expression of nebbiolo is Bosio’s 2015 Barbaresco ($37) with its intriguing tart red fruits and saline qualities. 

And for an even more affordable taste try a “Langhe Nebbiolo” like the 2017 Enrico Serafino “Picotener” ($25), which vinifies a rare sub-variety of nebbiolo to make a spicy wine of softer texture and light tannin.  

For all the prestige of nebbiolo, barbera is often said to make the wine the locals drink most. Typically, the grape produces a hearty but accessible red wine with juicy cherry, herbs and a touch of licorice. Bosio’s 2018 Barbera d’Asti ($13) combines a refreshing mouthful with firm tannin.

Finally, Piemonte also sources several fine white wines, notably from moscato, arneis and cortese. I had a nice example of the indigenous cortese grape grown in the area around the town of Gavi. Enrico Serafino’s 2018 Gavi di Gavi “Grifo del Quartaro” ($17) opens with nice peach and grapefruit notes and drinks brisk and tangy. 

In my experience, interest in southern Italy generally takes a back seat to places like Rome, Tuscany and Venice. But it is fascinating geography (and culture and history) and produces some of the peninsula’s most interesting wines. The focus is on indigenous grape varieties, some of which have been revitalized and transformed after years of indifference. This column highlights three of the several interesting regions.

Abruzzo is notable for its mountains, national parks, and Adriatic coast. But its wines haven’t received the attention they deserve. Fattoria La Valentina, is one of the producers dedicated to elevating the quality and status of Abruzzo wines. To this end, La Valentina produces only local plantings of montepulciano d’abruzzo, trebbiano d’abruzzo, and pecorino, with all its estates farmed organically or undergoing conversion. The 2016 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo ($15) is a fine value that justifies the effort. 

I also was impressed by the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Azienda Agricola Binomio, a collaboration of La Valentina winemaker Sabatino Di Properzio and Stefano Inama (winemaker of Inama in the Veneto). In 2000, they planted a high elevation site near the Majella National Park with low-yielding vines known as the so-called “Africa Clone” (the clusters are an odd shape reminiscent of the African continent). The 2015 Riserva ($52) is a modern style wine with aspirations to world class recognition. It is ripe with mature tannins but evokes rusticity. 

When visualizing Italy as a boot, Puglia is the heel. And Masseria Li Veli is notable of course for its wines but also for its work to reclaim a historic property, known as a masseria – an ancient farmhouse that was converted to a winery in the late 19th century – and transforming it into a state-of-the-art operation dedicated to producing sustainably farmed native varieties. The result is another round of flavorful, good value wines: an ebullient 2018 Primitivo “Orion” ($15) and a hardy, spicy 2018 Li Veli Salice Salentino “Passamante”($15).

In addition to Li Veli, the current owners the Falvo family founded the “ASKOS” project with the goal of rediscovering ancient Puglian varieties. The wines with this label are produced exclusively from ancient indigenous grapes to honor the region’s history with these unique grapes. I especially enjoyed a fresh, juicy 2018 Susumaniello ($21) and a crisp, aromatic 2019 Verdeca ($20).

The theme of a revival of indigenous grapes particularly applies to Sicily. And the Tasca family, one of Sicily’s oldest winemaking family’s, has been at the forefront of preserving and promoting these local grapes since the 1830’s. With five estates, Tasca d’Almerita also is passionate about sustainability both in the vineyards and inside the winery. Principles include efficient use and conservation of natural resources, low-impact environmental strategies, environmental protection and biodiversity, the wellness of workers, and the health of consumers. 

Tenuta Regaleali estate, located within the Contea di Sclafani (in the inland Sicilian countryside southeast of Palermo) is the family’s home base. It has been in the Tasca family for almost two centuries. Under the Tenuta Regaleali label, they produce a dizzying array of fine values: 

• 2017 Perricone “Guarnaccio” ($20) Guarnaccio is a local name for perricone, which was once widely planted across Sicily but fell out of favor due to phylloxera and increased investment in international grapes. Traditionally used as an important component of blends, usually with nero d’avola, this shows appeal as a varietal wine with strong tannins, high acidity and subtle earthiness. 
• 2018 Catarratto “Antisa” ($22) An ancient grape and a late ripener (“antisa” translates to “waiting” in local dialect) has been one of the grapes in Marsala wines, Tasca d’Almerita sources Catarratto from a high-elevation site, around 3,000 feet. Antisa highlights the grape’s naturally high acidity and ability to create a fuller bodied wine using no oak. 
• 2016 Nero d’Avola “Lamùri” ($20) Lamùri translates to “love” in the local Sicilian dialect, this 100 percent nero d’avola wine, is fresh, elegant, and full of finesse; a fine example of why I like Nero d’Avola so much. 
• 2018 Le Rose ($15) pink wine made from nerello mascalese. This is no trend-seeking rosato as it has been produced since 1961. It is delightfully high acid and quite full for a pink wine. 
• 2018 Grillo “Cavallo delle Fate” ($20) an ancient variety that is a spontaneous cross between zibbibo and catarratto, grillo, which means “cricket” in Italian, is historically known as an important grape used in the production of Marsala but is also incredibly dynamic as a dry varietal wine as this wine evidences. 
• 2018 Bianco ($15) a blend of native inzolia, grecanico, catarratto and chardonnay, this is well-rounded with a crisp acidity that makes for an easy-to-drink white wine. 
• 2016 Nero d’Avola ($15) fermented in stainless steel and aged in large oak barrels, this red is aromatic, peppery, and very fresh. 

More recently, the Tasca family has ventured to other historic sites on the island. One is the high elevation vineyards surrounding Mount Etna (the tallest, most active volcano in Europe), an area that has gained renewed attention from many producers in recent years. in 2007, they founded Tenuta Tascante (a portmanteau of Tasca + Etna) with estate vineyards focused on the native varietals of nerello mascalese and carricante.  The 2016 Nerello Mascalese “Ghiaia Nera” ($21) the volcanic, sandy, calcium-rich slopes of Mount Etna, generate a dark wine with balanced acidity, floral aromas, and bountiful tannins. 

2017 Carricante “Buonora” ($21) Carricante is an ancient white grape indigenous to Mount Etna that delivers wines with salty citrus qualities and minty herbal notes. It is considered a rediscovered varietal, even though it’s existed for over a thousand years on the island and possesses a high natural acidity. This one is a really fine example.

Regaleali also acquired two estates on smaller neighboring islands, Tenuta Whitaker (on the ancient island of Mozia and Sallier de La Tour in the Monreale) and Tenuta Capofaro (on Salina in the Aeolian archipelago). 

One result of the Tenuta Whitaker project (a collaborative effort with the Whitaker Foundation to reestablish the historical vineyards as they would have been planted by Joseph Whitaker, a British settler who purchased Mozia in the 19th century) is the 2018 Mozia Grillo ($22). Grillo is a traditional blending grape that is a cross between moscato and catarratto. Mozia is a heritage site that houses an active archeological dig and a study of the Phoenecian settlement dating back to 800 BCE. This is a lovely wine. 

In 2002, the Tasca family founded Tenuta Capofaro with the purchase of malvasia vineyards on the island of Salina. The estate vineyards, which lead from the mountains to the sea, surround the family’s five-star resort where visitors can enjoy the wines paired to local cuisine and more. A highlight of their current production is the 2018 Didyme ($26). It is wonderfully fresh and elegant.