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A QUICK TRIP TO SPAIN

When I first got interested in wine (way too long ago to admit) Spanish wine basically was a go-to choice for good values for every day drinking. Even the storied Rioja seemed an afterthought in discussions of the world’s finest wines. That seemed largely true even twenty years ago, when I first started writing about wine.

 

Well, that’s so Twentieth Century. Today, Spanish wines must be included in any serious discussion of the world’s finest wines but what’s really cool is there still are plenty of great everyday values.

 

In the fine wine category, I include two recently tasted wines from two highly respected producers. Bodegas RODA was founded in the late 1980s by Maria Rottlant and Carmen Dauvella. This is a thoroughly modern winery making thoroughly modern wines but wines that pay tribute to the centuries old traditions of the Rioja. Each vintage, the seventeen best vineyards (all vines are 30-100 years old) are selected to ferment separately and then three blends are fashioned to express different styles of tempranillo, Spain’s signature red grape.

 

The 2006 RODA Reserva ($45) is 100 percent tempranillo aged in French oak of which half is new. It shows textbook red berry fruit character, though maybe a bit sweet. That is offset with toasty, earthy, smoky notes and fresh acidity. It finishes with elegant, supple tannins.

 


In nearby Toro, we find more evidence of the modern winemaking renaissance in Spain and Bodegas Farina is one of the leaders, which is interesting in that it also is one of the oldest family wineries in the region, founded in 1942. It wasn’t long ago Toro was virtually unknown outside of Spain.Not so today and wines like the 2006 Gran Dama de Toro ($45) are the reasons why. The wine is full-bodied and intense. It opens with aromas of oak, black fruits, bacon, and toast. It is packed with dense blackberry, cherry, and plum fruit accented with an herbal touch. Highly structured with strong tannins, it finishes surprisingly harmonious.As I mentioned, there are still countless good value, everyday wines from Spain. I found several in my tasting. 

Another region that has witnessed revitalization is the home of the “Man of La Mancha.” While this area is believed to be the largest single winegrowing region in the world, with most of the vineyard land given over to growing grapes for brandy or bulk wine, a number of entrepreneurs have embarked on a seemingly Quixotic quest to grow fine premium table wines. One such winery is Finca Constancia, near Toledo in the La Mancha region of Central Spain southwest of Madrid. It is owned by González Byass, a leading producer (founded in 1835 and still family owned and managed) of Spanish wines, Sherries and liqueurs, with the most notable brand being Tio Pepe. Finca Constancia was created as a single estate property to produce single parcel wines similar to the principles of Bordeaux.

 

The vineyard is planted to numerous international varietals (cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc, petit verdot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay) but also many indigenous varietals (tempranillo, graciano, verdejo and garnacha. With the designation “Vino de la Tierra de Castilla,” the wines below are built upon both new plantings and existing vineyards and take advantage of the more flexible production techniques under the Denomination of Origin laws.

 

  • Finca Constancia Red Blend ($15). A blend of syrah, cabernet franc and garnacha; herbal notes compliment cherry fruit and spice; soft feel but lifted with crisp acidity.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 23 ($20). 100 percent tempranillo, single vineyard; deep, dark fruit, light spice; though a little thin in the middle, it’s concentrated, fresh dark berries and woodsy spices please.

 

  • 2011 Parcela 52 ($20). A 100 percent verdejo, single vineyard white wine ringer; quite aromatic, light and fresh, with brisk limejuice accented with green herb notes and a lively spritz.
  •  2010 Altos de la Finca ($35). From the highest vineyards on the estate, this creative blend of petite verdot and syrah for the extra money adds admirable intensity with deep black fruits, dusty oaky notes followed by a nicely dry finish.
I was quite pleased to find several values from Rioja, the most famous Spanish wine growing region in the southern part of the Basque country. First up are two from Bodegas Bilbainas, which was founded in 1859 and today is the largest estate in the Rioja Alta and fourth largest in all of Rioja.

 

The 2009 Vina Pomal ($12) takes its name from a 108-year-old vineyard, though the grapes are from 10- to 20-year-old vines. It is a fairly traditional Rioja of 100 percent Tempranillo (interestingly aged in 90% American oak). It is designated a Crianza, meaning it has been aged a minimum of one year, with six months in barrel. I liked the earthy red fruits of this straightforward but tasty wine, with its lively palate and lively mouthfeel.

 

Another vineyard lends its name to the 2011 Vina Zaco ($15). Also 100 percent Tempranillo from 10- to 20-year-old vines, it is best understood as a new style Rioja. And it’s an excellent style. Aged equally in American and French oak, it opens with bright cherry and raspberry. The palate has good weight and depth. It is quite full and flavorful, with a juicy finish and aftertaste.

The ancestors of the Bodegas Miguel Ángel Muro have been making wine since 1892 and growing wine grapes even longer. Miguel’s 2008 “Muro Bujanda” Rioja Crianza ($14) is just a fantastic value. Bright cherry and red currant aromas join roasted and lightly creamy notes. Similar flavor profile marks the intense fruit and touches of spice.

 

Founded over a century ago in the Rioja Alavesa by the grandfather of the current owner, Ruiz de Vinaspro makes wines from vines that range from 40-100 years of age. The 2007 Ruiz de Vinaspro Rioja ($15) is 100 percent tempranillo. It sports toasty blueberry and blackberry fruit. The palate is very dry mixing fresh tannins and woodsy herbs with lively wild berry fruit. A little closed at first, it opens up nicely with time.

 

Finally, just in time for summer, the 2010 Bodegas Sumarroca “Temps Flors” ($14) if a delightful, refreshing wine. Sumarroca is located in the Penedes region of Catalonia near Barcelona. The name translates to “time of the flowers” and the unique blend of xarel-lo Muscat and gewürztraminer mirrors that expression in the wine’s aroma (though it’s actually named after a local flower festival). This fruity, off-dry wine sports appealing fruity notes of lychee and tropical fruits balanced with good fruit intensity, perfect for quaffin

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POPULAR DENVER AREA COOKING SCHOOL MOVES TO NEW DIGS, ADDS NEW PROGRAM

I very much enjoyed learning about Kitchen Table Cooking School & Colorado Culinary Academy in Greenwood Village last night. This is an impressive operation with great chefs.

Owner Yvonne Haag had just moved the five-year-old cooking school, along with its Espressolé Caffe (including all house made pastries) to new digs. The new location enjoys impressive new, state-of-the-art kitchens. The new space also will also be home to a brand-new professional culinary school, Colorado Culinary Academy (CCA). The Academy will offer a 12-week, affordable, accelerated – yet comprehensive – professional culinary program, designed so students can put their culinary education to work right away, without the financial burden of a longer, more expensive program.

 

Cooked up as it were by Ms. Haag and co-owner Chef Andy Floyd. Haag and Floyd explained the academy is designed to provide affordable, accelerated training for those seeking a career in the culinary industry. Class size will be kept small so that each student receives individualized instruction, cooks the whole menu each day, and learns every technique on the agenda.

 

Their intent is for each graduate to possess the skills to find an entry-level job by the end of the program. What’s different here is the program is accelerated, comprehensive and affordable.  Accelerated means a full-time, 12-week comprehensive professional culinary training program covering the basic techniques, principles and theories of savory cooking with an overview of classic pastry items mandatory for every entry-level cook. Affordable means $15,000 tuition.

 

For more information go to: http://www.coloradoculinaryacademy.org/

 

Oh, and the food at the reption was excellent!

 

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KOSHER WINES FOR PASSOVER

Passover this year started the evening of March 25th and ends the evening of April 2nd. If you are still looking for kosher wine for your meals and ceremonies, look no further than Golan Heights Winery.

 

Founded in 1983, Golan Heights is owned by four kibbutzim (collective communities) and four moshavim (cooperative communities). From its home base in Galilee, the most northern and generally considered the best appellation in Israel, Golan Heights has from its beginning been a leader in creating and nurturing a fine wine culture in Israel.

 

If you are looking for an affordable, every day sort of wine, try the “Golan” or “Mount Hermon” brands. The 2011 Mount Hermon Red ($12) is a traditional Bordeaux-style blend and the 2011 Mount Hermon White ($12) combines sauvignon blanc and chardonnay, while the 2010 Golan Cabernet Sauvignon ($15) provides good varietal character. These are younger, more accessible wines that still offer good quality and flavor.

 

 

“Yarden” (Hebrew for the Jordan River, which divides the Golan Heights from Galilee) is the winery’s premier label and flagship brand benefiting from Golan’s finest grapes from the best vineyards. This is seen in the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon ($32), which is a bit pricey but is nicely done, with good fruit, full body, and some complexity, though a soft texture for a Cab. It is especially apparent in the 2008 Merlot ($25), which is just plain excellent and a great value. It is complex and full, with good concentration and structure and bright, focused fruit. As with the Cabernet, the alcohol – at 15 percent – is somewhat high for my preference.

Now for dessert. The 2008 “HeightsWine” (375ml, $27) is a type of “ice wine” manmade exclusively from gewürztraminer, where very ripe handpicked clusters are frozen in the winery. Then the whole clusters are pressed gently and the rich, concentrated juice is fermented very slowly over a number of months. This process yields a wine of intense aromatics and flavors of multiple white and orange fruits accented with spice and a luscious texture that would make a great dessert on its own.

For a different type of dessert wine, Yarden has released a new, Port-style wine, the 2008 “T2” ($50). It is made from two Portuguese varieties – Touriga Nacional and Tinta Cao – and fortified with brandy. The resulting wine is sweet; the red and black berry fruit is ripe; and the palate presents nice earth, spice, and chocolate notes. The texture is a bit rough but the wine compares well with most Portuguese Port.

 

Although there are only a few days left, there is still time to enjoy these wines for Passover. And they are of such quality they merit your consideration any time of the year.

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SPRING BREWS FROM DESCHUTES AND SAMUEL ADAMS … AND AN ODE TO BOSTON LAGER

SPRING BREWS FROM DESCHUTES AND SAMUEL ADAMS … AND AN ODE TO BOSTON LAGER

 

Although winter still has some punch left, this is the time of year when most breweries release their warm weather brews. These spring/summer beers typically sport a lighter, more approachable style. However, for me, their “drinkability” usually comes at the price of flavor interest. While, this style of beer generally isn’t my favorite, I have to admit the new releases from Deschutes and Samuel Adams are certainly “drinkable” and worth a taste.

 

 

Deschutes “River Ale” likely qualifies as a ”session ale,” with its low 4% ABV.

There is a good balance of malt and hop (a relatively modest 28 IBUs).

It opens with malty aromas, accented with a light lemony, hoppy bitterness followed by a similar flavor profile.

 

Samuel Adams “White Lantern” is a Belgian-style white ale, with added tangerine and orange peel, coriander and

Grains of Paradise (this is typical of traditional Belgian ales to have added spices and other flavorings). With a higher but still relatively moderate 5.5% ABV, this unfiltered potion offers citrus, bread, caramel, and lemongrass aromas. The flavor profile is similar but a bit toastier, with a touch of hoppy bitterness, despite the very low 10 IBUs.

 

Sam Adams “Double Agent IPL” is an altogether different creation. Note the “IPL,” as in India Pale Lager. Here we have a successful attempt to combine the hoppiness of an IPA and the subtle maltiness of a lager. Again we’re talking a modest 5.0% ABV but with a somewhat higher 43 IBU.

I liked the white pepper and grapefruit in the nose. I found the palate quite intriguing with a light hoppy bitterness and a hint of citrus built on an oat-like foundation.

 

 

I also want to take this opportunity to ruminate a bit on Samuel Adams Boston Lager. This iconic craft beer, now almost 30 years old, is easy for craft beer lovers to dismiss. Certainly, when it was introduced to American beer drinkers in 1984, it was a breath of fresh air, even a revelation, at least to this flavor starved beer drinking palate. At that time, I think the only other craft beer with which I was familiar was Anchor Steam Beer. Otherwise, my search for character meant trying different imports.

Boston Lager has always seemed to me to taste more like an ale than a lager. Maybe it’s because coming of age in the 1970’s, my experience with lagers was the typical American mass produced beer. Regardless of the proper style definition, Boston Lager’s hoppy character (from high quality Hallertau, Mittelfrueh and Tettnang Noble hops) seems fairly pronounced (even at 30 IBUs) but it is balanced nicely with creamy malts (a two-row pale barley malt blend and Caramel 60).

 

Jim Koch’s first commercial brew exhibits a bit of spicy citrus and pine qualities in the nose. The palate presents with good bite (even though it only provides a modest 4.9 % ABV) balanced with a pleasant creaminess. The beer finishes with citrus and caramel notes.

 

It seems obligatory for many craft beer advocates to downplay beers like Boston Lager that have been around a long time and are produced in relatively large quantities (at least by craft beer standards). Everyone is looking for the next “new thing” or “extreme beer.” And the Boston Beer Company has its fair share of those. But they deserve a lot of credit for maintaining the high quality of Samuel Adams Boston Lager, even as production has increased.

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PEOPLE’S PALATE WINERY PROFILE: BONNY DOON VINEYARD

RANDALL GRAHM’S AND BONNY DOON’S QUEST FOR TERROIRISTIC SELF EXPRESSION BEARS FRUIT

 

Over the last few decades, the concept of terroir and its influence on the grapes grown in a given location and ultimately the wine from those grapes has been the subject of an enormous amount of discussion and as much debate. When I first saw mentions of the subject, it was mostly presented in terms of the geography and geology of the soil in which the grapevines are grown. Soon after, conversations incorporated the environmental conditions and climate. Then it was expanded to include factors influenced by humans – particularly the grape growing and winemaking.

 

Nowadays most commentators agree a “terroir driven wine” ultimately reflects the sum of the natural conditions of its place of origin and the human decisions in the vineyard and the cellar that attempt to express the unique characteristics of that location. Actually, beyond that it seems to me the extent to which a wine accomplishes that ideal is a result of a still poorly understood alchemy in which the wine is greater than the sum of its influences.

 

Enter Randall Grahm, a singular winemaking personality known as much for his gift at turning a phrase and clever prose incorporating literary and philosophical references. Mr. Grahm founded Bonny Doon winery thirty years ago and was one of the original “Rhone Rangers” (proponents of California wines made with grapes typical of France’s Rhone Valley). He has long been a proponent of “terroir driven” wines but to many seemed to have lost his way for a period when he focused more on growing his wine business (ultimately to nearly 500,000 cases a year).

 

Now, he has recommitted himself and his operation to making (actually I think he would prefer I say “shepherding” or “facilitating” or maybe “translating”) wines that reflect the vineyard source. A key decision in this regard he says is his decision to only use biodynamically farmed grapes and rely on indigenous yeasts for fermentation. There still are myriad practices employed in the cellar to achieve the style of wine Mr. Grahm prefers (which I would describe as more European – higher acidity, dryer fruit flavors, more earthy and herbal components) but he seems genuinely dedicated to decisions he thinks will produce wines optimally characteristic of their origin.

 

And the quality of the wines, at least based on my recent tasting, more than justify his approach. He still is focusing on Rhone varietals and now also “lesser-known varietals” like the Albarino reviewed below.

 

 

For the whites, the 2011 Albarino ($18) from the Central Coast vineyards Casa Grande near Soledad and Jesperson Ranch in San Louis Obispo is fun to drink. True to its varietal characteristics (the grape is mostly known for its wines from Spain and Portugal), this wine is fairly aromatic and quite lively in the mouth. I enjoyed its peach, melon and lime fruit, and a creamy note that adds weight.

 

The 2010 Le Cigare Blanc Beeswax Vineyard Arroyo Seco ($26) also is quite fragrant with floral, lemon, pear, and spice notes. This Rhône-style blend of roussanne and grenache blanc comes from a shielded from the cool Pacific winds by the Santa Lucia Mountains vineyard is medium-bodied, with a lush texture (possibly from the full malolactic fermentation) and intriguing mineral characteristics.

 

 

On to the reds, the 2010 Contra ($16) is described as an “Old Vine Field Blend” implying the vineyard sources are planted with multiple grapes and all the fruit is harvested and vinified together. About 2/3 carignane (old, nongrafted, dry-farmed, head-trained vines from Contra Costa County’s Gonsalves Vineyard) and 1/3 syrah (from Santa Maria Valley’s Bien Nacido Vineyard) with splashes of grenache, roussanne, grenache blanc, and mourvèdre, this is similar to a wine we might find from the south of France. Regardless, it is a fine value with mushroom aromas and nice ripe red and black fruits, a touch of licorice and spice followed by a medium body, supple texture and fresh acidity.

 

The 2009 Ca’ del Solo Nebbiolo Monterey County ($45) from the biodynamic Ca’ del Solo Estate Vineyard is rather pricey but it does deliver the goods. On the nose, there are pure red cherry, lightly floral and smoke notes, and maybe even a creamy quality. In the mouth, an underlying element of earth with a touch of fennel is the foundation for a juicy, lighter-bodied, brightly fruited wine.

 

The Chateauneuf-du-Pape style 2008 Le Cigare Volant ($38) has become somewhat iconic since its inception 25 years ago. It was one of the first such wines from one of the first Rhone Rangers. This vintage is 45 percent grenache (mostly from Ca’ del Solo estate) and 30 percent syrah (mostly from Bien Nacido vineyard), with smaller proportions of mourvedre, cinsault, and carignane. It shows tangy plum and hints of cherries and anise. I sense lightly dusty, woodsy notes in the nose. There is similar fruit in the broad mouth, while it closes with powdery, gravelly tannins.

The 2008 Le Cigare Volant Reserve en Bonbonne ($65) is a really interesting wine. It is a selection of the Cigare Volant separated to finish aging in 5-gallon glass bottles (called carboys or “bonbonnes”) rather than barrels or foudres. Possibly because of the nature of this container, particularly its reductive (oxygen free) nature, it does seem to have a bit more structure and taste a little fresher. Still, the bouquet presents evolved notes of dried berries and herbs with a pleasant suggestion of gravel. It is nicely concentrated and dry and finishes with noticeable tannic grip.

 

I would say these two wines are of roughly equal quality, although I preferred the Bonbonne. They’re just made in different styles. Maybe they should be thought of as different expressions of the vineyard sources as interpreted by the winemaker.

 

There also were three Syrahs in my tasting. One, the 2009 Le Pousseur Syrah ($25) was the only wine that didn’t impress me much. There was nothing wrong with its earthy, savory qualities and black cherry fruit. It just seemed rather one-dimensional.

 

In contrast, the 2008 Syrah Alamo Creek Vineyard ($35) had a lot going on. It opened with enticing red fruit. Then it followed with smoky dried herbs and a spice note that for some reason made me wonder if they came from the grape, the barrels in which the wine was aged, or the vineyard (which Grahm says is planted in an old riverbed in San Louis Obispo County). It had a similar flavor profile, with deep fruit, a touch of anise and savory, peppery, meaty flavors. This is all packaged in a solid structure, with distinct dryness, finishing with lively tannins.

 

Finally, the 2008 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard ($42) was the star of my tasting. From the cool climate, older vines and calcareous soils of Bien Nacido’s X-block, this is a fantastic wine. It was generous with its tart cherry and juicy berry fruit. Peppery, earthy and meaty elements emerged with time in the glass, all nicely balanced with fresh acidity. As with the best Syrahs, this wine deftly balanced power and elegance.

 

Based on the wines in my tasting, this partnership between the winemakers, wine growers, grapevines, and vineyards is bearing fine fruit and I look forward to following its further development.

 

 

NOTE: All photos obtained from Bonny Doon website.

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WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS: MAKE YOUR VALENTINE’S DAY SPARKLE

Whether you are looking for a wine to impress your partner or just something good but moderately priced to enjoy together, your best bet this Valentine’s Day is a bottle of bubbly. Sparkling wine is ideal for special occasions and of course bubbly will make any occasion special. I’ve got some worthy suggestions to enliven your time together and I don’t mean just as a prelude to the evening but to enhance the enjoyment of your meal.

 

 

Any reason to drink Champagne is welcome and a classic like Nicolas Feuillatte’s Brut ($37) – 40% pinot noir, 40% pinot meunier, 20% chardonnay – with its refreshing notes of toasty apple and pear and a luscious structure is always a good choice. It might seem a bit cliché to recommend rosé but the Champagne Rosé ($49) – 60%pinot noir, 30% pinot meunier, 10% chardonnay – with its salmon-pink color, tangy red fruits and creamy texture is undeniable.

 

If you are looking for something sweet, the new “Sweet Sparklings” line from the Italian producer Caposaldo (known for its frizzante “Moscato”) is a good option. With three alternatives – each bottle is a different color, blend and level of sweetness but all are just $16 – these are sure to please the eye, palate and wallet.

 

  • Sweet Moscato (blue bottle) is 100% moscato bianco with succulent pear, peach and treademark spice aromas and flavors.
  • Sweet Pink Moscato (pink bottle) is 55% merlot, 45% moscato bianco emphasizes berries, with flowery and herbal notes.
  • Sweet Red Sparkling (red bottle) is a lightly sweet blend of 55% malvasia nera, 45% merlot is quite aromatic offering strong plum and red berry aromas and flavors.

 

If you want dry and modest price, try a Cava from Paul Cheneau. Owned by Giró Ribot, one of Spain’s preeminent family-owned Cava producers. I recently tasted five of the line that are worth your consideration. Like other Cava they feature indigenous Spanish grapes and are made using the traditional bottle fermented method. What distinguishes Paul Cheneau from other Cava is its French influence. A French winemaker created the brand and the wines do seem to reflect more of the elegance and balance generally expected of French sparklers.

 

The first three are 45% macabeo, 40% xarello and 15% parellada. For Valentine’s Day, the Lady of Spain Brut ($13) has to be your first choice, if for no other reason than its dramatic packaging showing a painting of a woman in a red dress on a yellow background. It is bottle aged at least 12 months and is fresh and fruity, with nice apple and citrus, yet well structured with a soft, fresh finish. If you can’t find that, though, don’t hesitate to pick up the Brut ($14), also bottle aged at least a year or the Brut Reserva ($16), bottle aged 24 months. The Brut is crisp and toasty with citrus fruit. The Brut Reserva is more elegant with succulent and vibrant apple, yet a smooth mouthfeel.

 

There also are two other good fizzy alternatives. The Brut Rosé ($15) is a blend of 85% trepat and 15% pinot noir. It is bottle aged up to two years and delivers nice red cherry in a lush but lively frame. For something a bit sweet, the Demi Sec ($15) – 45% Macabeo, 40% Xarello, 10% Chardonnay, 5% Parellada – is bottle aged two years and shows toasty notes and lively peach fruit.

 

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NORTHWEST WINES WELL WORTH CONSUMER ATTENTION

While most press and consumer attention is devoted to California wines, there are a great many great wines from Oregon and Washington we all should be seeking out. This article is but a brief introduction to a few of those.

 

Wine grapes have been grown in Oregon since the mid-1800’s but it really wasn’t until the 1960’s when the seeds, so to speak, were sown for the development of the modern Oregon wine industry. There were little more than a dozen wineries at the time trying to find their way in the wine world. Now there are over 400 and the state has become synonymous with world class Pinot Noir, which is by far the most common wine. Still, the industry is characterized by mostly smaller, family owned operations, certainly in comparison to California and even to some extent Washington. The largest winery in the state makes a little over 250,000 cases, with just about two million produced in the whole state.

 

Ponzi Vineyards, referring to founders Dick and Nancy Ponzi and now second generation winemaker Louisa Ponzi, was one of the pioneers of modern day winemaking in Oregon when their estate was planted in 1969. Beyond the estate vineyard, the family now owns several vineyards in the nearby Chehalem Mountains and continues its position as a leader in Oregon wine.

 

Ponzi’s Willamette Valley Pinot Noir has long been a reliable example of Oregon Pinot. The 2009 ($35) reflects good balance and length with juicy red fruits and hints of cola, spice and a touch of earth. The entry-level 2010 Tavola ($25), made from younger Ponzi vines and fruit from nearby growers, is a bit lighter but a very good value with its characteristic pinot aromas and flavors, silky palate, and lively acidity.

 

But Ponzi really showcases what its vineyards can do with its limited production, single vineyard bottlings. The 2010 Aurora Vineyard Pinot Noir benefits from its source’s location atop the Chehalem Mountains, 20-year-old vines, and southeastern exposure. Its ripe cherry and cranberry aromas and flavors are given intrigue with baking spices and the well-delineated frame is balanced with polished tannins. The 2010 Avellana Vineyard’s hillside orientation, younger vines and northwestern exposure yield a fresh and vibrant wine. This is juicy with tart red fruits, a slight herbal, invigorating acidity and supple tannins. I have to admit I was shocked when I saw these wines’ price – $100 – but there is no doubting these are excellent Oregon Pinot Noirs.

 

Dick Erath was another Oregon wine pioneer, having founded Erath Winery in the Dundee Hills in 1968. Today, winemaker Gary Horner produces over a dozen Pinot Noirs for Erath in a variety of price ranges. At a recent tasting of several of Gary’s wines I was especially impressed with the 2009 Prince Hill Vineyard ($45). He told us this vineyard is notable for its temperate climate and multiple slopes and exposures. The wine’s juicy red fruits, earth and spice notes and velvety texture were especially appealing. The 2009 Prince Hill 777 Clone ($50) also was quite nice and actually fuller bodied and firmer but also with succulent fruit. The other wine that really got me was the 2009 Leland Vineyard ($50). This vineyard has a south facing slope and cooler climate than Prince Hill. The wine was more elegant with deep, pure fruit and an enticingly silky texture.

 


In 1993, Bill and Cathy Stoller (who already were involved in Oregon wine as co-owners of Chehalem) purchased the Stoller family turkey farm and, realizing the potential of the rocky, low yielding soils, converted the property to a vineyard – Stoller Family Estate. The 2009 SV Estate Pinot Noir ($45) opens with enticing cinnamon spice and black cherry. It impacts the palate rather firmly but flows smoothly over the tongue. Although winemaker Melissa Burr crafts several more expensive special selections, this estate wine from “Senior Vines” is the wine that best reflects this unique property.

 


One of the things that really surprised me in my recent tasting was the high quality of the Oregon Chardonnays that also were included. Although Oregon deservedly has gained attention for Pinot Gris in recent years, this experience has convinced me to give more respect to Oregon’s Chardonnays.Ponzi’s 2010 Aurora Chardonnay ($60) has a lovely floral nose with citrus, pear, spice and what strikes me as a leesy note. There is similar fruit in the mouth, along with a rich texture yet vibrant acidity. The 2010 Avellana Chardonnay $60 is tight, focused and appealing, with the pear and citrus flavors rounded by a touch of spicy oak, lingering sweet lemon and apple, and a refreshing juicy finish.I was really blown away by the 2009 Stoller SV Estate Chardonnay ($28) especially at the price. Scents of pear, apple, and vanilla, with a light baked bread note lead into a vibrant but rich, creamy textured wine. It is bursting with flavor and character. The 2010 Reserve Chardonnay ($28) also is quite nice, with a lush mouthfeel and lively acidity balancing tropical fruit and a hint of spice.

 

Washington, Oregon’s neighbor to the north, has an even longer recorded history with wine grapes dating to 1825. But, similar to Oregon, it really wasn’t until the 1960’s and 1970’s when Washington’s wine industry began to show signs of its world class potential. Still, by 1981, there were only nineteen wineries. But by 1996, there were eighty, then 360 in 2005, and 740 in 2011! (SOURCE: Washington Wine Commission) Today, Washington is the second largest premium wine producer in the United States.

 

Every consideration of Washington’s modern wine history has to begin with Chateau Ste. Michelle, which actually dates to 1934 but really established itself as the most influential pioneer of Washington commercial winemaking in the 1970’s when famed enologist Andre Tchelistcheff spent time consulting with the winery. Today, the wine company encompasses more than two-dozen estates and partnerships around the world. In this column, I highlight three of those projects.

 

 

Spring Valley Vineyard produces wine from 100 percent estate-grown fruit in Walla Walla. While Ste. Michelle now owns the label, the original owners, Shari and Dean Derby, continue to own the vineyards. I recommend the two Bordeaux-style blends in this tasting. The 2009 Frederick ($50) is named after Shari Corkrum Derby’s father Frederick Corkrum. This mix of 55 percent cabernet sauvignon and 31 percent merlot, with small amounts of cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec, sports cherry and berry on the nose and in the mouth. It is highly focused, with hints of oak, and excellent concentration but moderate tannins on the finish. The 2009 Uriah ($50) is named after Shari’s grandfather Uriah Corkrum who farmed in the Walla Walla area in the late 1800’s. Another Bordeaux-style blend, this one is dominated by merlot (54 percent), and cabernet franc (35 percent), with dollops of petit verdot and malbec. It is nicely defined with ripe, cherry and blueberry aromas and flavors. Lively on the palate, it also delivers light touches of herbs and spice and finishes with elegance.

 

 

Col Solare, which translates as “shining hill,” is a partnership between Ste. Michelle Wine Estates and Tuscany’s Marchesi Antinori established in 1995 to produce a world-class Cabernet Sauvignon-based red wine from Columbia Valley fruit. In recent years, the wines have featured more fruit from the Red Mountain sub-appellation and will eventually include fruit from the winery’s Red Mountain estate vineyards. Col Solare quickly established itself as one of the premier Bordeaux-style blends in Washington and the 2008 Col Solare ($70) continues the streak. With 67 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 percent Merlot, 10 percent Cabernet Franc, and 3 percent Syrah, this impressive, complex wine combines intense aromas of cherry, herbs, black currant, plum, and dark berries. There is similar luscious fruit in the elegant, yet full-bodied structure and strong but refined tannins mark the finish.

 

Col Solare also produces a second wine called understandably “Shining Hill.” But the 2009 Shining Hill Columbia Valley ($45), a blend of 69 percent cabernet sauvignon and 21 percent merlot with pinches petit verdot, cabernet franc, and syrah, sure delivers more than one would expect from that designation. It displays scents of plum and blackberry fruit, with a touch of mocha and tobacco. Ripe fruits in the mouth are joined by nice oak notes, along with hints of brown spices and cedar. Firm but supple tannins balance the elegant finish.

 

Although now also making other wines, Northstar began in 1994 as
 and remains a Merlot specialist. Since its founding, Northstar helped put Washington State Merlot on the world wine map and these recent vintages demonstrate the winery is still a leading producer of merlot-based wines. The 2008 Merlot Walla Walla Valley ($50) loads up on black fruits and cherries, tobacco and chocolate, accented with a smoky, woodsy note. Similar intense flavors follow with added oak and spice, a solid structure and strong but accessible tannins. The 2008 Merlot Columbia Valley ($40) is spicier and feature more red fruits. It also is more velvety in texture, with fine tannins that make the wine more drinkable now.

 



Cadaretta is a small, family-owned winery in Walla Walla that continues the agricultural history of the Middleton family that goes back over 110 years. The family began growing grapes just 22 years ago and established the winery just five years ago but already is already making its mark. The 2009 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) offers assertive red fruit aromas that meld nicely with mild herbal and earthy notes, while an emerging hint of cocoa adds complexity. Juicy red fruits also spread across the mouth with a supple impression and finishes with smooth tannins.

 

 

The Mercer family is now into its fourth generation of farming the Horse Heaven Hills. Mercer Estates is the family-owned winery that emerged in 2005 out of about forty years of grape growing experience, including the original planting of the acclaimed Champoux vineyard. I was really impressed with a couple of white wines from Mercer I tasted recently. The 2010 Riesling Yakima Valley ($15) is dry but enlivened with juicy peach, tropical and citrus flavors and a crisp finish. Just plain delicious. The 2010 Pinot Gris Columbia Valley ($15) also is impressive at the price. Light and Juicy melon and pear aromas and flavors are delivered in a glossy, broad textured, even a bit creamy wine.

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TWO COLD BEERS TO WARM YOUR JANUARY


I sampled two new releases from Deschutes Brewery tonight. Turns out, it’s a pretty good way to spend a cold night in Denver. One of them, Red Chair IPA was striking in that I had tasted last year and my notes tonight were almost the same as then. And that’s a good thing. So, rather than plagiarize myself for a review, I will just quote last years’ (also found here: http://rmpeoplespalate.com/blog/?p=495):

Once in a while, this wine guy gets an opportunity to sample new craft beer releases. I’m happy to have one now to recommend: Red Chair NWPA (Northwest Pale Ale), the new seasonal beer from Deschutes Brewery of Bend, Oregon.

Deschutes says Red Chair (6.2% ABV) is named after the oldest operating lift at Mt. Bachelor. They call it their debut Northwest Pale Ale, though not unlike the last year’s Red Chair IPA. I never tasted the IPA; so, I’ll take their word for it.

This one sits in the glass with a copper color and a loosely foamy head. As I sniff, I pick up hints of citrus, bread, caramel, and herbal lemongrass. Sipping reveals more toast and citrus. Dry, bitter hops emerge but don’t overpower. A malty counterpoint asserts itself then gives way to more hops in the finish.

I relate to it as a cross between an IPA and American pale ale. It is medium bodied and well balanced, with a hoppy personality moderated by malty qualities. I’m told Red Chair began as an experimental beer to test new hops and hopping techniques. Additionally, seven European and domestic malts are key to the formula. The success of the experiment shows in the final product.

Maybe I shouldn’t be surprised Red Chair cleaned house the World Beer Awards.

I also was impressed with Deschutes Hop Henge Experimental IPA. At 10.6 percent alcohol and 95 IBUs, I think this beer (available as a 22 ounce bomber) would be classified as an Imperial IPA/Double IPA, which basically is a stronger, hoppier version of India Pale Ale. And Hop Henge is defined by intensity in both its aromas and flavors. Expect peppery, citusy hops – mostly Cascade and Centennial, with Millennium, Delta, Mosaic, and Citra – and smooth, malty, somewhat caramel flavored malts – Pale, Munich crystal, and Carastan. It drinks with a good backbone of citrus/grapefruit and finishes nicely spicy. Ultimately, this is a powerful but well balanced brew that will keep you alert while you’re drinking but will threaten to put you to a pleasant sleep soon after.

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WHAT’S COLD, DRY, LIGHT AND WHITE ALL OVER … AND JUST IN TIME FOR JANUARY?

PEOPLE’S PALATE WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR JANUARY 7, 2013

No, it’s not snow. It’s white wine from France, at least for the purposes of this column.

 

I admit I usually prefer red wines (and Port!) during the cold months but recently I suddenly had a hankering for some crisp whites, cold weather be damned. These wines from Alsace and Loire really hit the spot. So, I thought I’d share them with you. And, keeping in mind your post-holiday bank accounts may be somewhat depleted, all are under $20 a bottle.

 

Something like 92 percent of all Alsatian wine is white. Unlike other French regions, the best wines (those whose appellation of origin is controlled by law, known as A.O.C.) are labeled with the name of the grape variety (and the wine inside is 100 percent). Of particular interest to me, the region is the premier home of my two favorite white grape varieties – riesling (although Germany ranks here, too) and gewürztraminer.

At their best, these wines have excellent fruit intensity, intriguing savory notes, and fine balancing acidity. And Pierre Sparr is one of the best producers. The firm’s entry-level wines (all screw capped) are excellent introductions to the region. The 2011 Riesling ($15) is lightly floral with juicy lime and peach fruit, a stony element and firm acidity. The 2011 Gewurztraminer ($17) delights with intense aromas of tangerine, peach and pear and off dry, textbook lychee flavors, with a touch of anise in a rich, oily texture wine. The 2010 Alsace One ($13) is a blend of muscat, riesling and pinot gris. It is fragrant and floral with lively tropical, apple and mineral notes, good acidity and a crisp finish.

 

At the far west end of the Loire Valley within reach of the Atlantic Ocean’s salty breezes lies the Muscadet appellation. There is much unique about the wines here. Melon de Bourgogne is the only grape variety grown and it is virtually unique to this region, even though it originated in Burgundy. These wines are one of the great accompaniments to fish and seafood, and especially oysters.

 

My favorites come from the Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine area, located between the two rivers in the name. The terrior – igneous and metamorphic rock and the influence of the ocean – produces very dry wines but they are light and crisp, with fresh citrus (lemon, lime, grapefruit) aromas that evoke the ocean breeze, brisk acidity offset with minerality, and a tangy, occasionally slightly bitter finish. They are vinified sur lie in which the lees (yeast cells remaining after fermentation) are kept in the wine until bottling to enhance the lively character. The 2009 Andre Michel Bregeon ($16) really evokes the saline spray of the nearby ocean and those oysters you’ll be eating with it. The 2010 Domaine de la Quilla ($13) shows more of the stony minerality. Finally, the 2008 les Clissages D’Or ($16) emphasizes the citrus and herbal qualities.

 

 

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LOTS OF BUBBLES TO MAKE YOUR NEW YEAR SPARKLE

PEOPLE’S PALATE WEEKLY WINE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR DECEMBER 26, 2012

LOTS OF BUBBLES TO MAKE YOUR NEW YEAR SPARKLE

 

Although sparkling wine is always an appropriate choice for any occasion any time of year, no question the New Year, with all its toasts and “Champagne” brunches, are prime time for indulging a bit of bubbly. And effervescent wine is so popular, there are versions made in virtually every wine region.

 

Champagne

 

The benchmark for sparkling wine is that made in the Champagne region of northwestern France. Cool climate, limestone laced soils, and a nearly 300 year singular focus on the style (the “traditional method” – secondary fermentation in the bottle to capture the ”stars”) means Champagne is the benchmark for all things foamy. It also means the stuff is quite expensive. So, I suspect in most cases you will be looking for a nonvintage Brut. It’ll still set you back a pretty penny but with a top producer (like the two here) you’ll still get something special.

Charles Heidsieck. One of the oldest and most prestigious Champagne houses, established in 1851, the Charles Heidsieck house style typically is one the most complex and bold. Equal parts pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot meunier, with 40 percent reserve wines – some 10-15 years old – the Brut Reserve ($65) packs toasty brioche, pear and tropical fruits, with nutty notes in an amazingly lush frame. Even given the considerable cash commanded by Champagne, the Brut Reserve delivers a lot of wine for the money. 

Lanson. Over 250 years old (the fourth oldest Champagne house), Lanson has been absent from the U.S. market for a while but was recently reintroduced here. Lanson always was one of my favorite Champagnes, so I’m glad they’re back. And the Brut Rosé ($60) doesn’t disappoint. With 53 percent pinot noir, 32 percent chardonnay and 15 percent pinot meunier, the wine is exceedingly fresh and aromatic. This may be because Lanson eschews malolactic fermentation, meaning its wines typically retain more pure fresh fruit character. This one is loaded, with biscuit and floral aromas, red berry and citrus flavors and comes with an elegant texture.

 

Crémant

 

Beyond Champagne, there still are a wide variety of (mostly) more affordable choices for you. In France, Crémant is a term used to designate a high quality sparkling wine made using specified quality control practices including the “methode traditionnelle.”

 

Pierre Sparr Crémant d’Alsace. The Sparr family winery was established an amazingly long time ago in 1680. Pierre Sparr has access to many of the region’s finest vineyards, so maybe it shouldn’t be a surprise this is a highly respected producer. The Brut Reserve ($19) is 80 percent pinot blanc, 20 percent pinot auxerrois. The nose suggests the assertive melon, tropical and citrus fruit that dominates the palate. Fine mousse tickles the palate with minerals and hints of nuts. A fantastic value. The Brut Rosé ($19) is 100 percent pinot noir with fresh aromas of soft red berries and delicate, fruity flavors and lively acidity.

 

Gerard Bertrand Crémant de Limoux. Limoux, a small town and appellation in the Languedoc-Rousillon region of Mediterranean France, lays claim to producing sparkling wine by a second fermentation in the bottle long before Champagne.  Crémant de Limoux traces its history to 1531 and Benedictine monks at the abbey of Saint-Hilaire. Bertrand’s 2010 Crémant de Limoux ($16) is a blend of 70 percent chardonnay, 20 percent chenin blanc and 10 percent mauzac, the indigenous grape which used to dominate all Limoux sparkling wine. There is enticing flowery, citrus and toast on the nose and pleasant pear, apple and lemon flavors. I found the palate to show refined, frothy bubbles.

 

Prosecco

 

Prosecco from the Veneto region of northeastern Italy has become an extremely popular sparkling wine choice in recent years. Prosecco (the name of the production zone, while glera is the dominant grape), unlike the other sparklers in this report is produced using the Charmat Method. In this case, the bubbles are produced by inducing the second fermentation in a pressurized tank. The attraction is in fresh aromas and clean, delicate fruit, frizzante bubbles and low alcohol.

 

Valdo. Valdo Spumanti was established in 1926 and has been owned by the Bolla family since 1940. The Valdo Brut DOC ($12) opens with floral aromas and delivers lively, fruity pear and apple flavors. Valdo also has released a new Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut. Designated “Oro Puro” ($16), Prosecco’s fresh, lively style certainly is present but there is evidence of greater complexity and fuller flavors as the grapes are from the finest (usually higher altitude) hillside estate vineyards and the wine undergoes an extended aging period. Also consider Valdo’s Nerello Mascalese Rosé ($14), in which the nerello grape adds color, raspberry and spice to the blend. It’s not Prosecco but is similar in style.

 

Mionetto. Another one of Prosecco’s top producers, Mionetto traces its origin to 1887. They also areone of the zone’s most creative, as evidenced by the lighter, gently-sparkling and lower alcohol style of Mionetto’s “IL” ($13). The fruity aroma of pear and citrus is followed by a fresh and crisp wine with apple and peach flavors. The Mionetto Prosecco Brut DOC Treviso ($15) is a bit floral and more intensely fruity with notes of apple and citrus. It also is drier and pleasantly brisk.

 

Enza. Enza Extra Dry ($15) is a new brand produced for the importer W.J. Deutsch by the Cantina Colli del Soligo, a cooperative of growers throughout the Veneto. The slightly higher residual sugar is nicely balanced with just the right touch of acidity. The delicate bouquet offers with scents of pear and apple with a lightly floral, while the mouth also exhibits citrus and peach.

 

Moscato and Moscato d’Asti

 

You have to give the Italians credit for creativity and their fascination with spumante. As much as they are rightly recognized for their red wines, I have been told the Italians are just as proud of their sparkling wines. In addition to Prosecco and the impressive Franciacorta (none reviewed here), the Piemontese have come up with one of the most delightful of all. Made from the moscato bianco (white Muscat) grape in the vineyards surrounding the town of Asti, moscato d’Asti is enticingly aromatic, delightfully sweet, slightly fizzy (frizzante), and very low alcohol (5.5%), making it perfect as an aperitif or a dessert wine.


Vietti Moscato d’Asti. With a 200 year tradition of winemaking, this highly regarded producer is recognized as one of the first in the Piemonte to bottle single-vineyard wines and for pioneering the resurrection of the indigenous areneis white grape.  They also make one of the best Moscato d’Asti. The 2012 “Cascinetta” ($15) uses only the best moscato grapes with extended maturation. The resulting wine intense aromas of honey, peach and orange, with hints of spice and a suggestion of flowers. On the palate, it is loaded with apple, pear and lemon, while its delicate sweetness is balanced with bracing acidity leading to a fresh finish.

 

 

Caposaldo Moscato. Caposaldo is a brand brought to the U.S. by the importer Kobrand. The Moscato IGT ($10) actually is not a Moscato d’Asti but I include it here for ease of reference. The grapes are grown in the Provincia di Pavia in northern Italy’s Lombardy region. It is a bit less sweet and higher in alcohol (but still very low at 7%). And the price sure is right.

 

Cava

 

Spanish Cava has long been my go-to bubbly for parties and friendly accompaniment for meals. Most Cava is produced by the tradition method in the Penedès valley in Cataluna not far from Barcelona. Most Cava features the indigenous grapes Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Parellada. It’s recently had competition from Prosecco but is still a great choice.

 

Codorníu. Codorníu has been a premier sparkling wine producer since 1872 when the family introduced the traditional method to Spain. The family’s winemaking history actually stretches back more than 450 years to 1551. Anna de Codorníu Brut ($15) celebrates the life of Codorníu’s last heiress and the family she guided. It was the first Cava to use chardonnay in its cuvee, 70 percent in this release with 30 percent parellada. It shows some richness and a little sweetness, with a solid structure and a creamy texture and more fruit than expected – citrus, tropical and strawberry aromas; and apple, citrus, and raspberry flavors.

 

Poema.  Poema is a top-quality, small-production Cava house that emphasizes sustainable practices, suchasorganic fertilizer and no herbicides. The Brut ($13) is notable for its fresh bread, citrus, apple and even mineral notes. Its crisp, fruity and well-balanced profile positions it as a great choice. 

California

 

Barefoot Bubbly. For my California selection, I’m recommending a reliable choice in the so-called “value” category – Barefoot Bubbly. Barefoot Cellars has been churning out good value wines since 1986. Today, they produce thirteen still wines and seven sparkling. The mainstays of the Barefoot Bubbly line are the Brut Cuvée and Extra Dry, each ($11). The Brut is not as dry as the term usually indicates. But it is clean and crisp, with nice lemon and apple fruit balanced with creamy notes. The Extra Dry shows nice fresh tropical fruit; it is slightly sweet but finishes with refreshing acidity. These wines are ideal for parties and family gatherings and make a good base for the ever popular mimosa.