It’s official, Rosé (that is, dry Rosé) has become extremely popular with American consumers. Rosé has experienced an amazing growth in sales in recent years. And quality mostly has grown, too, even as variety has increased.
Still, as rosé’s success has led to a proliferation of pink wines on shop shelves, some now worry the result will be a decline in quality and slowing sales. Luckily, I didn’t see that in my tasting. I was impressed with the overall quality and consistency of the wines below. Note, all wines here are 2020 vintage, unless otherwise stated.
Rosé can be enjoyed as an apéritif or with the full range of foods. Because the flavor profile is similar to their red siblings, while they drink more like white wines, rosé pairs with many foods and may be enjoyed year-round. Rosé goes really well with food because it combines some of the fruit and tannin of a red with the acidity and vibrancy of a white wine. It’s a perfect pairing for shellfish, spicy Asian cuisines, pasta or a big lunch-salad. Some vintners love it with a juicy burger.
Interestingly, most of the wines in my tasting were from pinot noir. California wineries seem to have latched on to pinot noir as the grape of choice for Rosé. This is likely because the grape typically produces lighter colored wines anyway and tends to reveal its primary aromas and flavors at earlier ripeness. The best wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. They exhibit bright, fruit ranging from strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon.
Inman “Endless Crush®” Russian River Valley ($38) certified sustainable, estate grown, Olivet Grange Vineyard, pretty red cherry and fresh cranberry, tangy, mineral
Pisoni “Lucy” Santa Lucia Highlands ($19) delicate, succulent mixed berries, supple, one dollar of each bottle sold is donated to breast cancer aid and research, fine value
Alma Rosa “Vin Gris” Santa Rita Hills ($35) estate grown from El Jabali Vineyard, structured, elegant and refreshing, tangy strawberry, peach, grapefruit
Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County ($22) Russian River Valley and Carneros grapes; specifically grown for rosé’s, strawberries raspberries, tangerine and pomegranate, brisk, modestly herbal
Argyle “Grower Series” Willamette Valley ($30) with chardonnay and small amount of pinot meunier from estate Knudsen and Lone Star vineyards, crisp, creamy watermelon, red berry, mineral notes
Diora “Le Belle Fête” Monterey ($20) San Bernabe estate, juicy red berries, spice
Raeburn RRV ($20) with zinfandel and grenache, brisk rasberry, citrus
Grapes originating in Southern France – notably Côtes de Provence (grenache) and Rhône Valley (grenache, cinsault, syrah, mourvedre) – also are popular. They tend to make a rosé a bit richer, offering more intensity with a touch of spice.
Alma Rosa Grenache Rosé ($30) sourced from El Jabali estate vineyard, brisk, cherry, strawberry, orange, peach, salty note
Bonny Doon “Vin Gris de Cigare” Central Coast ($15), grenache with cinsaut, clairette blanc, grenache blanc, mourvedre, and vermentino; brisk strawberry, nectarine, lightly creamy, touch of spice, fine value
Ram’s Gate Rosé Sonoma Coast ($38) grenache with pinot noir and syrah, tart red berries, citrus
Finally, there are rosés produced with Bordeaux varieties, and the Acumen “Mountainside” Napa Valley ($30) is a fine example. It is 100 percent merlot from the estate Attelas Vineyard and offers bright cherry and strawberry with a slightly herbal accent in a nicely firm frame.
While Chardonnay is still the most popular American wine and Sauvignon Blanc is a solid second, many wine consumers are showing more interest in a diversity of flavor profiles from other grapes. Generally, you should find the wines in this column are bright, food-friendly and meant to be enjoyed at any time but especially with food. A surprisingly winning array of wines, even though mostly unfamiliar grape varieties
Let’s begin with chenin blanc, which originates from the Loire Valley where it makes fascinating, complex, luscious (dry or sweet), yet underappreciated wines. It also has been increasingly successful in South Africa. In California, it used to be produced in a fruity, slightly sweet style, though a few brave souls now make a dry style inspired by the fine wines of Savennieres.
The 2019 Aperture ($30), sourced from a seventy-year-old, dry farmed Sonoma vineyard is barrel fermented, resulting in succulent apple, pear, peach and citrus fruit with an intriguing herbal note.
The 2019 Chappellet “Molly Chappellet” ($38), with grapes from the winery’s Pritchard Hill estate, rewards with a concentrated complex of lively apple, tropical and stone fruits, and mineral notes.
The 2020 Dry Creek Vineyard ($16), a fine value and a perennial favorite from Clarksburg in Lodi, is aromatic, with juicy apple, peach, pear and honey.
Next, pinot blanc, a mutation of pinot noir, is more common in Alsace than Burgundy. It also is found in Austria (weissburgunder) and Germany (weissburgunder) and Northern Italy (pinot bianco). It tends to offer peach, pear, lime, melon and apple and present with have good weight.
The 2019 Ram’s Gate Estate ($38) with sustainably grown Carneros grapes, is crisp, full-bodied, with green apple, pear and melon. A fine value, the organic 2020 Girasole Mendocino ($14) is lively, with luscious peach, citrus, and pear. It also is vegan.
Another mutation of pinot noir, pinot gris also is more prominent in Alsace than Burgundy. It produces good wines in Germany and Austria (where it is known as grauburgunder or ruländer), and, of course, Italy (where it is known as pinot grigio). It’s the leading white variety in Oregon (though chardonnay is gaining) and increasingly popular in California. Also, its name refers to the greyish color of its skin and generally is noted for stone fruit, melon, and citrus.
The 2019 Balletto ($20), with estate-grown Russian River Valley grapes, offers delicious lemon, orange and apricot with baking spice.
I find the grapes of southern France, especially intriguing. Take grenache blanc. A mutation of the red grenache grape, it is widely grown there, although it originated in Spain. It produces fuller bodied wines with intense citrus and melon.
The 2019 Priest Ranch “Schrader Ranch” ($22) with its juicy estate grown Napa Valley fruit also offering pear and stone fruit, with a steely quality.
One of the lesser-known southern France grapes, though common in the Languedoc, picpoul is being given some interesting treatments in California. The 2020 Bonny Doon Beeswax Vineyard ($15), from the Arroyo Seco region in Monterey, sports high acidity with citrus, pear, peach and herbal notes.
And Rhône Valley varieties – generally, various combinations of viognier, roussanne, marsanne and grenache blanc – flowery lend themselves particularly well to blends.
The 2019 Sosie “White Blend” Rossi Ranch ($35) combines organically grown roussanne, grenache blanc and marsanne with native yeast fermentation to yield appealing green apple, pear and lemon.
The 2020 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc + Viognier ($16) is a unique and innovative blend, Clarksburg chenin blanc supplies crispness and honey; Lodi viognier contributes intense apricot, apple and viscosity. Viognier once upon a time was quite rare but is now the most-planted white Rhône variety in the United States. It produces wines with intense aromatics of peach, apricot, apple, and floral notes, as well as viscosity and lushness. This wine successfully combines these two disparate grapes into a very good value.
The 2020 Bonny Doon “Le Cigare Blanc” ($15) blends 60% grenache blanc, with 32% vermentino and 8% clairette blanche from Central Coast vineyards for delicate yet flavorful of melon, peach, orange, and peach.
Although it still has a reputation of being only a sweet wine, riesling – the iconic grape of Germany – regularly is fashioned into wines that delightfully balance residual sugar and bracing acidity. But more and more, dry or off-dry Riesling wine is taking its place at the table. The best wines are delightfully juicy, dramatic expressions of green apple, grapefruit or peach (and sometimes peach or apricot) with crispness, occasionally with steely, mineral components.
The 2017 Smith Madrone Riesling Napa Valley ($34), from a dry-farmed estate vineyard on Spring Mountain, is an exemplary example with fruity flavors and a lively palate, with a slight stoniness.
Finally, most dentified with northwest Spain and northern Portugal (where it is known as alvarinho), albariñocan make invigorating, floral and citrus-flecked wines. There also are some interesting, successful examples in California, notably in the Central Coast region. The sample in my tasting, an unoaked 2020 Mettler Albariño ($20) was vibrant, yet rounded, with succulent apricot, orange, apple and peach. Just delightful.
There is an incredible diversity of wine grape varieties grown in the Mediterranean countries offering a rich diversity of taste experiences. This column focuses on lesser known grapes in southern France, Spain and Portugal. Here are but a handful that deserve your attention.
RHÔNE VALLEY
While the Rhône Valley is best known for its amazing red wines, its white wines should not be overlooked. If you’ve been intrigued by American wines labeled Viognier or described as “Rhône-style”, check out the origins of these fascinating, even exotic wines.
Of particular note are the Côtes-du-Rhône Crus of the Northern Rhône. A Cru is a specifically delineated geographic area around a village whose wines are noted for high quality and distinctiveness.
Hermitage Blanc arguably is the most prestigious. The 2017 Barruol Lynch “La Pierrelle” ($99) is blended by importer Kermit Lynch in collaboration with Sarrual Barruol, a producer with an over 400 year history in the region. It is mostly marsanne with roussanne showing a complex of focused citrus, tropical and stone fruits with hazelnuts, an intriguing minerality and a honeyed, creamy palate.
And the tiny appellation of Condrieu is the ancestral home of viognier, which has grown in popularity around the world in recent years. But nowhere will you find an expression of the grape with such freshness and tautness in balance with the naturally luxurious texture. And the 100 percent viognier 2018 E. Guigal ($65) is a fine example, dramatically aromatic and flavored with citrus and stone fruit while notes of ginger, honey, and minerality add complexity to the rich texture.
Not as well-known as Hermitage or Condrieu, wines from nearby Saint-Péray, a white wine only appellation, can be nearly as impressive, particularly in the hands of a top producer such as Domaine A. Clape, a family with 250 years as growers in southern France. Also mostly marsanne with roussanne, this wine(2019, $78) is graceful and elegant, with pure citrus and stone fruit accented with spice and licorice.
In the Southern Rhône, the quality of the Lirac Côtes du Rhône Cru (an appellation in proximity to Châteauneuf-du-Pape) is reflected in the 2019 Domaine de la Mordorée “La Reine des Bois” ($36). From a producer known for organic and biodynamic farming, it is made up of equal parts grenache blanc, viognier, and roussane, it is attractively floral and fruity, suggesting citrus and stone fruit with stony notes and a creamy texture.
Also in the Southern Rhône, the village of Beaumes-de-Venise sources the 2016 Domaine de Durban “Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise” ($27). Produced only from muscat blanc à petits grains grapes, and fortified with neutral spirits like Port, it is designated “vin doux naturel” (naturally sweet wine). At 15% alcohol, it defines freshness and finesse with concentration.
While a simple Côtes-du-Rhône label indicates a good value entry level wine, Côtes-du-Rhône Villages means the wine comes from one of twenty-one specifically designated villages known for higher quality. And the 2018 Domaine Pélaquié “Laudun” ($17) is a named Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Cru made with viognier, grenache blanc, clairette, roussane, marsanne, and bourboulenc. From a certified sustainable, family-run estate (since the 16th century), it is a fine value showing ripe fruit, medium body and a rounded palate.
Spain and Portugal have long been reliable sources of fine value wines. With many indigenous grapes, the variety of tastes and styles only adds to their appeal. For proof, check out the white wines below.
PORTUGAL
Northern Portugal’s Vinho Verde (Green Wine) is notable for distinctively light, refreshing, low alcohol wines. Alvarinho is the predominant variety, though other native grapes are used. The wines below are fresh and fruity, brisk (sometimes even spritzy) (including arinto and loureiro) yet harmonious. Wonderful for casual drinking, versatile with food and generally best enjoyed young.
2019 Campelo ($10) a good introduction, crisp citrus, apple and orange with a tingle on the tongue and hint of sweetness
2020 Quinta da Lixa “Aromas das Castas” Grande Escolha ($10) even better with lively, tangy orange and apple with a touch of earth
2020 Esporão “Bico Amarelo” ($12) fine fresh, elegant apple, lime, honey and herb
2020 Quinta da Raza Grande Escolha ($17) another step up for its fresh, focused citrus, pear and minerals
2020 Esporao “Quinta do Ameal” ($17) excellent, from loureiro grapes with vibrant pear, mineral, and hints at richness
2017 Quinta do Louridal “Poema” Riserva ($18) a rare example of an aged Vinho Verde; displays some complexity with ripe pear and honey in a fairly full frame
Cockburn’s Porto Branco “Fine White Port” ($15) is fortified like red Port. At 19 percent alcohol, it offers hints of almond, lemon, pear, caramel, and vanilla. It is sweet, full-bodied with a creamy texture palate, and is delightful chilled as an aperitif or in cocktails.
SPAIN
Another fortified wine worth exploring is Spanish Sherry. Predominantly made from native palomino grapes and best drunk cold, Sherry comes in several styles.
The most food friendly is “fino,” the lightest, driest (as it is fermented and aged under protective layer of yeast – called “flor” – that forms on top of the wine) and lowest alcohol (usually 15 percent). A special kind of fino called “manzanilla” is made only around the coastal town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda where producers such as Emilio Lustau produce especially delicate, expressive wines from native palomino grapes such as Lustau’s “Papirusa” ($18) with citrus, almond, mineral and saline reminiscent of sea breeze.
At the other end of the spectrum, the Valdespino “El Candado” ($26) is a rare, sweet, rich dessert wine. With 100% Pedro Ximenez grapes aged for 10 to 12 years and 17 percent alcohol, its syrupy texture is nicely balanced with lively acidity and flavors of molasses, black walnut, raisins, dates and caramel. Drink as dessert or even better, over vanilla ice cream.
Williams & Humbert “Dos Cortados” Solera Especial 20 Anos Rare Old Dry ($50) is an even rarer style, a Palo Cortado that begins life as a fino but evolves more pungent, intense and complex aromas and a richer, more concentrated palate. At 21.5% alcohol, it displays nuts, dried fruits, citrus, ginger, caramel, with lively acidity, yet creamy finesse.
Beyond Sherry, Spanish white wines usually don’t get anywhere near the respect of Spanish red wines. But wines from albariño in the Rias Baixas area of Galicia and verdejo from the Castilla y Leon region in central Spain deserve consumer attention. While I didn’t have any such wines in my tastings, I did have one impressive wine from godello, a very rare grape now enjoying a revival of interest.
Though at a high price point, the 2018 Alvaredos-Hobbs Godello ($50) is emblematic. This is a new venture by Sonoma-based winemaker Paul Hobbs (who has similar partnerships around the world, this time with Antonio Lopez, a sixth-generation Spanish vintner) focused on production of native varieties planted in the Ribeira Sacra region in Galicia in northwestern Spain. From this rare but interesting grape, the wine is impressive and expressive of honeyed peach, citrus, and ginger, with floral notes, and hints of white pepper. It drinks with finesse and bright acidity.
Recently, Rosé has found wide acceptance with the American consumer. Wine industry publications report double-digit growth in the category and even triple digit growth in some price ranges. And what better time to join the parade than during the heat of summer?
I’m glad to see this popularity focused on dry (or off-dry) wines modeled after European styles, not the heavily marketed, sweet “blush” wines that have been popular for years. A variety of red grapes are used and the best wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. Expect a flavor profile similar to their red siblings, while they drink more like white wines. Anticipate a profile with a range of bright red and citrus fruits (strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon).
Because of their vibrant freshness and lively fruit, pink wines are almost always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available. Note, all wines here are 2020 vintage, unless otherwise stated.
Among Rosé devotees, France is a prime source and southern France even more so. Rosé from Côtes de Provence (made mostly from grenache) is especially popular. My recommended wines generally exhibited delicate, fresh red berries, crisp citrus fruits, juicy freshness, and a suggestion of creaminess.
Domaines Ott, whose vineyards overlook the Mediterranean, is a Rosé specialist with a 125-year history. Its Clos Mireille ($58) single vineyard wine is farmed specifically for Rosé and includes cinsault, syrah and the white grape rolle (AKA vermentino). It justifies its price with tangy fruit, citrus, mineral, saline, and solid, though elegant body. The winery’s By.OTT ($26) is a blend from estate and local vineyards showing delicate peach, melon, and light spice.
Photographie réalisée par un professionnel de l’image
Domaine Cala, owned by Los Angeles Chef Joachim Splichal, has produced a savory Coteaux Varois en Provence ($18) with tart red currant, peach, stone, and spice.
Spain gets into the act with an entry from the influential Torres family, with a viticultural history in Penedes (the most important wine growing region in Catalunya, near Barcelona). The Sangre de Toro ($15) is a mainly a blend of garnacha and cariñena, showing delicate, fresh raspberry and red currant. From Portugal, Herdade de São Miguel’s Colheita Seleccionada ($15) blends touriga nacional, aragonez, and syrah from the Alentejo region in southern Portugal, for a nice tart cherry-strawberry mix.
Most of the Rosés in my tasting were from Italy (where it typically is labeled Rosato).
From the Veneto, the Tenuta Sant’Antonio winery (a well-known maker of Valpolicella and Soave) also produces fresh, focused wines from local and international varieties under the Scaia label. The Scaia Rosato ($13), from the native rondinella, is lively and juicy, fresh and focused.
From the Marche, the 150 year-old Garofoli farms montepulciano specifically to make Kómaros ($14), a crisp Rosato with citrus, mineral and a hint of sweetness.
Masseria Li Veli in Puglia is notable for its work to restore historic properties, emphasize local varieties and practice sustainable farming. Its “Primerose” ($13), made from negroamaro, is brisk, with strawberry, raspberry, and spice, and a fine value. I especially enjoyed the fresh, juicy, creamy Susumaniello ($21). This is an ancient indigenous Puglian variety among several that has been resurrected through the “ASKOS” project.
From Sicily, Poggio Anima’s “Raphael” ($15) blends the ancient, rare zibibbo (AKA the aromatic grape muscat of Alexandria) with syrah from two vineyards overlooking the sea. It’s firm and herb-tinged with red berries and tangerine. From Planeta, a family that has farmed in Sicily for five centuries, the nero d’avola and syrah of its Rosé ($19) presents spicy red berries and citrus.
Let me close with a special outlier: Germany’s Villa Wolf Pinot Noir ($14) with its bright cherry, fresh raspberry, and mineral notes. This estate in the lesser-known Pfalz region dates to 1756 and now is managed by the Mosel’s esteemed Dr. Loosen.
With all the attention given to healthier lifestyles and foods (and most of it usually ignored), it’s no surprise these also are concerns in the drinks world. The big news recently has been the hard seltzers and their lower alcohol levels.
Now, low alcohol, sugar and calorie wines are emerging to present themselves as healthier alternatives for the calorie conscious, though there is no legal or agreed-upon definition of “low”. They also often stress sustainability or transparency in ingredient labeling as selling points. For the most part, this is just marketing, wine’s answer to hard seltzers. While there are things you can do in the vineyard to yield lower alcohol, most of these wines are manipulated in the cellar to achieve the desired result.
Here, I offer wines to satisfy your preference from four of the best producers in the famed Mosel River Valley – Dr. Loosen, Maximin Grünhaus, Fritz Haag, and Zilliken – and a top Rheingau producer Robert Weil). These are classic, light-bodied Rieslings that help you reduce calories while still enjoying a real product of nature – something grown, not manufactured.
I prefer naturally low alcohol wines like German Riesling. Slightly sweet wines come in at 8-9 percent alcohol, off-dry ones around 11 percent, and dry wines at 12 percent. Most table wines these days have 13-15 percent alcohol. Depending on your preference, all are ideal refreshers for the summer heat: crisp, juicy and balanced. They also are model wines for health-conscious drinkers – and the budget-conscious.
These dry wines will give you about 120 calories per 5-ounce glass.
2019 Dr. L Dry ($12) juicy green apple with spicy-steely finish
2019 Dr. Loosen Red Slate ($18) name refers to its soils; brisk-tart lime, green apple
2019 Maximin Grünhäus MAXiMiN ($16) from the Ruwer tributary of the Mosel; round, juicy, apple, citrus, steely, spicy
2019 Robert Weil Trocken ($20) detailed, juicy, peach, citrus, mineral
These off dry wines have about ten fewer calories.
2019 Fritz Haag Estate ($20) fresh apple, lightly spicy
2019 Zilliken Butterfly ($22) from the Saar tributary; like biting into a ripe Granny Smith apple
2019 Robert Weil Tradition ($20) brisk grapefruit, lemon, mineral
These slightly sweet wines come in about 100 calories.
2020 Dr. L Riesling ($12) racy, apple, peach, yet elegant
Finally, also in the slightly sweet category, are Kabinett wines. While their higher price requires a bit more commitment, these single vineyard wines are more distinctively complex.
2019 Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr ($28) aromatic, crisp, pure apple, citrus, peach, spicy, mineral
As a bonus, all these wines are ideal for the lighter foods of summer: sushi, shellfish, grilled fish, as well as most Asian and chicken dishes, and even spicy foods.
Italy has long been THE wine peninsula and known as one of the world’s great wine producers. Recently, the island of Sicily has emerged from the mainland’s shadow with high quality wines from indigenous grapes. Producers like Corvo and Tasca d’Almerita have begun reacquainting themselves (and us) with the variety and quality of island wine.
Here I offer an opportunity for you to discover some of the wide range of unique representations, both white and red. First, the white grapes, starting with grillo. A major component of Marsala, its wines feature delicate citrus, apple, tropical fruit, and refreshing acidity.
Tasca d’Almerita has been instrumental in bringing Sicilian wine to the forefront of the world’s oenological stage. With five estates across mainland Sicily and the neighboring islands, the family offers a glimpse into the possibilities and diversity of Sicilan wine. A leader in sustainable winegrowing, the Tasca d’Almerita estates are renowned for their commitment to the SOStain methodology.
In a collaboration with the Whitaker Foundation, owners of the small island on Mozia off the west coast of Sicily, the Tasca family has restored a historic grillo vineyard, sharing the island with a museum and archeological dig of a Carthaginian-Phoenecian settlement dating back to 800 BCE. The unfiltered 2019 “Mozia” Sicilia DOC ($22), reflects freshness from fermentation in stainless steel and richness from aging on the lees. The “Sicilia DOC” designation, by the way, is a good indicator of quality. DOC roughly translates to “controlled denomination of origin” and guarantees level of quality and authenticity.
Featuring organically grown grapes from Di Giovana family’s estate vineyards, the vegan friendly 2020 “Vurria” Sicilia DOC ($20) benefits from similar treatment in stainless and with the lees, enhancing its notes of citrus, tropical fruit, and savory freshness.
From the widely distributed Corvo winery, dating to 1824 and long a go-to for affordable Italian wine, comes two good examples. Under the Irmàna label is a hand-harvested wine (2019, $13) that offers bright, crisp citrus, tropical and stone fruit with herbal qualities and a soft texture. The 2020 Corvo Grillo ($10) is ideal for everyday sipping.
Malvasia is a grape most often vinified sweet but Tenuta Capofaro, founded by the Tasca family on the island of Salina, presents the delightfully dry 2019 “Didyme” Salina IGT ($26), aged four months on the lees in stainless steel nicely revealing the grape’s signature floral peach and apricot, finishing with hints of salinity. “Salina IGT” indicates a wine typical of the Aeolian Islands, the volcanic archipelago just off Sicily’s northeast coast. IGT indicates a wine typical of the geography.
Carricante, having grown around Mount Etna (Europe’s tallest active volcano) since ancient times, is possibly the most interesting of Sicily’s white grapes. It is notable for brisk citrus, floral and herbaceous characteristics. From the Tasca family’s Tenuta Tascante, on the northern side of Mount Etna, the 2019 “Buonora” Etna Bianco DOC ($21) is fermented and aged in stainless steel. It is quite refreshing but with savory herbal notes and a distinctive salty element. “Etna Bianco DOC” indicates a wine of quality from the territory near the Mount Etna volcano.
On to the reds, where nero d’Avola is the island’s most recognizable and widely planted red grape. It is often made fresh, juicy, and red-fruited, with red berries and plum. Mandrarossa “Cartagho” Sicilia DOC (2017, $26) from Cantine Settisoli is a selection of grapes from top vineyards vinified in a more complex style. It delivers darker fruits, notable tobacco, and fine tannins.
I also find nerello mascalese, the red variety arguably most suited to the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna, enticing, especially for its fresh, cherry and strawberry fruit, and herbaceous, minerally nuances. Imagine the acidity of sangiovese and the fruit of pinot noir. The 2017 Tenuta Tascante “Ghiaia Nera Rosso” Etna DOC ($21) is firm but with elegant tannins and a whiff of spice
Frappato is a new grape to me. It tends to be exuberantly fruity, floral and light, an ideal casual sipping wine or to drink with charcuterie. It is sometimes blended with nero d’Avola to deepen its character. A good example comes from Irmàna, the hand-harvested portfolio of the large Corvo Winery (2019 $13). If you like Beaujolais, you should like this.
The island of Sardinia (or Sardegna in Italian) also deserves attention. About 280 miles west of Rome across the Tyrrhenean Sea, it is home to a wide variety of native grapes, though vermentino is the signature white grape and cannonau, the local name for grenache, is the key red grape. Carignano also is significant, though not represented here.
Vermentino has been grown for centuries in Sardinia, most notably in the Gallura district. Fine examples also are found in the northwestern provinces of Italy, like Tuscany. Typically, there are two styles: soft but refreshing acidity or fairly full-bodied; some are even slightly spritzy. The taste shows a hint of the salty sea – saline minerality – and notes of lemon, and white flowers.
Established in the Surrau Valley of Gallura in 2004 by a family that has practiced viticulture in the area for generations, Vigne Surrau is an exemplary producer of Vermentino di Gallura. Their 2020 Limizzani ($16), referring to a mystical site in the region that ancient Mediterranean civilizations inhabited thousands of years ago, is a delightful blend of fruit from estate vineyards that was fermented and aged in stainless steel and shows some weight and chalky hints. The 2019 Sciala ($27), an Arabic word that refers to a generous and abundant harvest, is a careful selection of the estate’s finest fruit. And that describes the wine’s passion fruit and sherry-like qualities. This wine sees brief skin and must contact and is fermented and aged in stainless steel with lees contact.
In addition to Vermentino, Surrau produces a distinctive selection of estate red wines from the cannonau grape, as well as several other indigenous red varieties. Cannonau likely originated in Sardinia and is even more widely planted than vermentino. Its wine generally has a low acidity level and high alcohol content. The flavors can range from fruity to rich, with spicy earthiness and are well structured. The 2019 Naracu ($16), referring to ancient stone structures built in a cone shape (also known as nuraghe) on the island, is fermented and aged in stainless steel to create an open and fresh expression. The 2019 Surrau Rosso ($27), carrying the Isola dei Nuraghi designation, was the first wine produced at Vigne Surrau from the first vineyards planted in the Surrau Valley. A blend of 60 percent carignano, 30 percent cannonau and 10 percent muristellu (bovale sardo), this wine (aged for nine months in a mixture of large casks, stainless steel tanks and cement vats) is more structured and spicier.
I once attended a seminar by legendary Italian wine writer Victor Hazan when he confidently announced, “The color of wine is red!” While Italy is best known for its reds, there are numerous distinctive whites, primarily from indigenous grape varieties.
Think you know Pinot Grigio? You don’t know Pinot Grigio until you’ve drunk Italian Pinot Grigio. If you are used to American Pinot Grigio, recalibrate your expectations. When tasting these wines, I kept thinking of words like brisk, tangy, crisp, tart, Bracing, and fresh. And they’re perfect for summer sipping.
Elena Walch Vigna Castel Ringberg
Particularly from Alto Adige in the northeast with wines like the 2019 Kaltern ($23) – full flavored apple, white peach and almond. And the 2018 Elena Walch Vigna Castel Ringberg ($27). This one’s for people who don’t think they like Pinot Grigio – citrus, apple, pear, stone fruit, melon, mineral hints of spice, good structure.
In the far northeastern most corner, the Friuli Venezia Giulia region is home to Marco Felluga whose “Mongris” (2019, $20), from the Collio subregion, fills the mouth with peach, melon and stone fruit accented with spicy herbs. Finally, repected producer Alois Lageder also offers the value priced 2019 Cantina Riff ($11) – citrus, fresh cut grass, pear, and apple.
Also from Collio subregion, the 2018 Russiz Superiore Sauvignon ($29), from a sibling estate to Marco Felluga, is a Sauvignon Blanc inspiring for its crisp lemon, peach and melon. Packed with flavor, it still drinks with finesse.
Elena Walch Vigna Kastelaz
Back to Alto Adige, I continue to be impressed with Gewürztraminer wines from the grape’s geographic origin. The 2018 Elena Walch Vigna Kastelaz ($39) is traditionally off-dry and drinks with orange and enticing viscosity. Its cool climate source enables the wine to develop dramatic aromas of lychee, anise, rose, and spice.
Further west, while Piemonte’s red wines get most of the attention, its native white wines should not be overlooked. Especially arneis, an ancient variety from the Roero subregion, which over the last fifty years has been revived mostly thanks to Vietti winery whose 2019 ($24) shows fruit salad, with herbal notes and a juicy finish. And, though not quite as old, cortese is produces an equally distinctive wine. La Scolca’s 2019 Gavi dei Gavi ($45), an estate grown cortese from near the town of Gavi, opens with nutty lime, peach and citrus notes and drinks brisk and tangy.
Finally, Abruzzo in east-central Italy also is focused on local grapes, such as pecorino (the grape, not the cheese). Another old variety once thought to be extinct that has been resurrected in recent decades, its wines typically are invigorating and forward with higher alcohol, but still delicate and balanced. The 2019 La Valentina Pecorino ($17) adds complexity from organically farmed estate vineyards and a luscious palate from slightly higher alcohol, balanced with pleasant nutty citrus.
NOTE: Featured Image courtesy Alto Adige Wine/Benjamin Pfitscher
Scents and tastes of lemon and apple and sometimes peach, pear, nectarine, or apricot, and even topical fruits. A lush, often creamy texture that unfolds across the palate. Fresh, lingering impressions as the wine finishes. It’s no wonder Chardonnay is the most popular white wine in America. And here are several examples why.
In recent years, the Russian River Valley of Sonoma County has emerged as arguably the best source of Chardonnay outside of Burgundy. Gary Farrell Winery has been one of the appellation’s premier producers for nearly forty years and their Chardonnays are emblematic expressions of the region. My favorite wine from a recent tasting was the 2017 Rochioli Vineyard ($65), a historic site that yielded a rich, robust wine with toasty, savory notes, and a juicy freshness. The 2017 Ritchie Vineyard ($60), from a fifty-year-old planting is a structured, potent and concentrated wine, with a broad palate.
Another impressive wine from my tasting was the 2018 Ram’s Gate El Diablo Vineyard ($70), from a slope of gravel and sandy loam near the river, shows elegance as its hallmark, with lush, vibrant texture and hints of caramel.
While Napa Valley is best known for amazing Cabernet Sauvignon, it also produces fine Chardonnay. The 2018 Far Niente Napa Valley ($70), from a winery founded in 1885 and has produced one of Napa’s most sought after Chardonnay’s since 1979. The estate vineyard in cool Coombsville in southern Napa has produced a rich, juicy, oaky wine that maintains a balancing structure, with savory, toasty elements.
A counterpoint to Far Niente’s valley floor influences, the 2017 Smith Madrone Spring Mountain District ($40), from a dry farmed, mountain grown estate vineyard, shows light oak notes preceding intense, tangy fruit, a touch of almond and a graceful palate. A fabulous value.
California’s Central Coast also source fine Chardonnays. And I discovered excellent wines from an unexpected area in the Central Coast in San Benito County about forty miles inland from the coast. The 2018 Calera ($55), from the legendary Pinot Noir producer in the Mountain Harlan appellation, offers impressive notes of honey, toast, chalky minerality, in a rich but elegant texture.
Nearby, Eden Rift Vineyards has produced striking 2018s. The Estate ($42) presents somewhat spiced and saline elements offset with honeyed, nutty components. The Reserve ($64) steps up with buttery, nutty, light butterscotch, and a focused, yet opulent texture. My favorite, the Terraces ($54), intrigues with light mint, hints of oak, limestone, and almonds, and a bright structure.
While Oregon has gained worldwide attention over the last few decades for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay also deserves attention, As proven by the 2018 Archery Summit Eola-Amity Hills ($48) with its brisk mouthfeel and toasty, savory accents, and polished texture. And the 2017 Argyle Willamette Valley Reserve ($35) for its complex sweet green herb and baking spice balanced with concentrated fruit and creamy texture.
NOTE: Featured image (Mountain Vineyard Terraces) courtesy of Eden Rift Vineyards
Recent vintages confirm that Pinot Noir wines from the West Coast continue to shine in regions with a proximity to a river or the Pacific Ocean. Whether Oregon, northern California or California’s Central Coast, unlike years past, there are many fine choices up and down the Pacific Coast.
When serious commercial winegrape growing began in Oregon’s Willamette Valley in 1966, few had an idea the region would become a world class Pinot Noir producer. A late comer by comparison (1987), Argyle makes Oregon’s best sparkling wines, is a leader in sustainable viticulture, and a top Pinot Noir producer. Its 2018 Reserve ($40) brings bright fruit, with tea and spice in a sleek texture.
The Anderson Valley in Mendocino County, with its rugged landscape and ocean influences, has proven hospitable for the pinot noir grape. Goldeneye, established by premier Napa Valley winery Duckhorn, produces wines of fine energy, yet elegance, and savory nuances. The top-of-the-line “Ten Degrees” (2017, $130) blends its best batches to ripe toasty, spicy, powerful effect. Of the four estate vineyard wines, the Gowan Creek Vineyard (2017, $86) is big, rich, herbal, and enticingly chocolatey.
Occupying the center of Sonoma County, the Russian River Valley is one of the world’s best sources of great Pinot Noir wines. EnRoute, founded by respected Napa winery Far Niente, sources grapes from top vineyards throughout the valley for the deep, rich, savory “Les Pommiers” (2018, $60). Emeritussources from estate vineyards, including the prestigious Hallberg Ranch. Its juicy, herbal, rich but elegant 2017 Wesley’s Reserve ($75) is a special selection from the vineyard. Gary Farrell has excelled at single vineyard Pinot Noir for nearly forty years. These two 2017s ($65) – intense, layered Bacigalupi and wonderfully persistent, finely structured Martaella – express the signature style of fresh red fruit, natural acidity, and appealing earthiness.
Close to the Pacific in the western reaches of Sonoma County, the Sonoma Coast has emerged to rival the Russian River Valley. Ram’s Gate, from its home base in Carneros, produced a lush, intense, spicy 2018 Sonoma Coast ($48). MacRostie, a pioneer in the Sonoma Coast for three decades, produced a weighty, juicy and nicely oaky 2018 Wildcat Mountain Vineyard ($58).
Straddling the cool southern reaches of Sonoma and Napa counties, Carneros has transformed from dairy ranches to prime vineyard land over the last fifty years. Bouchaine, whose estate vineyard has been in operation since 1880, has yielded a freshly earthy, sleek 2018, ($35).
The Central Coast appellation of Cienega Valley in San Benito County has historically sourced large production wineries. But a corner of the Gavilan Mountains is thankfully different. The high-altitude vineyards of Calera – the only winery in the Mt. Harlan sub-appellation – have become legendary for Pinot Noir. And the 2017’s are exemplary.
Ryan ($75) juicy, meaty, dense, exotic spices, elegant
de Villiers ($75) resolute, broody, tea, meaty, toasted cream
Jensen ($100) elegant, juicy, earthy, spicy, stone
Mills ($75) bright, earthy, spicy, saline, silky
Grapes have been grown in the foothills of the Gavilan Mountains where Eden Rift sits today since 1849. The winery makes several 2018s that are candidates for development in the bottle. The Estate ($48) is rich, velvety, and herbal. The Terraces ($64), a special selection of the estate vineyard, offers extra energy and bright fruit. The Reserve ($72) sends a streak of red fruits and wild herbs on a luscious palate.
I remember a time when wines made with organic grapes were considered inferior. Wine shops would carry a few for the true believers but squirrel them away on a few shelves in a corner.
But times change, and as science, taste, environmental and social considerations, and financial benefits grew, wineries began to convert to organic and “sustainable” practices. For many years, though, those wineries preferred not to tout these factors on their labels. Stigmas die hard. But they do eventually die.
Today, more wineries are eager to announce their environmental and sustainable practices in their vineyards and wineries. And with the increase in awareness of climate change, making a positive impact on the environment and in peoples’ lives is driving even more action.
Climate change presents a huge challenge for modern agriculture, particularly as greenhouse gas emissions from farming have one of the largest impacts on climate. And while systemic change is necessary, individual choices matter. Confident in the quality of the wines they can produce, many wineries are pushing the frontier of eco-conscious viticulture. While they may focus on immediate concerns (such as erratic weather), they recognize that to be sustainable, they must look to the future.
I call it drinking well while doing good.
This all is nothing new to Martha Barra, proprietor of BARRAof Mendocino and Girasole Vineyards (same family, same organic vineyards, same winemaker). Her husband Charlie Barra began buying vineyards in the Anderson Valley of Mendocino in 1955. Today Martha continues the “all-organic-for-the-last-65-years” ethos, along with winemaker Randy Meyer. “It is also important we have been certified organic since 1988; certification matters,” she told me.
Ms. Barra also surprised me saying Colorado is their best market after CA for sales of their Girasole Vineyards wines! See what I mean with the concentrated 2017 Barra Petite Sirah ($22) – ripe red and dark berries, concentrated palate, typically chewy tannins, a bit unyielding at first; leave the wine open for a few hours – and the elegant 2019 Girasole Pinot Noir ($20).
Concerns about climate change and sustainability today are worldwide. Another leader in the movement, Symington Family Estates, a prominent vineyard owner and producer in the Douro Valley of Portugal, is also a leader in green initiatives. The family’s sustainability efforts fit in the context of the Porto Protocol (a statement of principles that companies voluntarily commit to pursue “to minimize the effects of climate change by doing more tomorrow than they are today to reduce CO2 emissions, and to share their experiences and expertise”).
Touriga nacional vines at Quinta da Perdiz
CEO Rupert Symington, in an email response said, “Symington Family Estates has signed up to the Porto Protocol [a statement of principles that companies voluntarily commit to pursue to minimize the effects of climate change and to share their experiences]; we are committed to improving our sustainability practices (including carbon neutrality before 2050) and those of our industry.”These commitments include an emissions reduction plan to achieve carbon neutrality before 2050; entering into a partnership with Rewilding Portugal to support the recovery of habitat and prey for keystone species in the Douro Valley.
Introduce yourself to the family with the intensely flavored 2019 Vale do Bonfim ($13) blend of native varieties – half touriga franca, 20 percent touriga nacional, and the rest a field blend. And don’t forget their great Dow’s and Graham’s Ports.
Sustainability also travels with the grapes into the winery. Barra pays special attention to packaging, using cork made of sugar cane when they aren’t using screw caps, packaging that disintegrates, and lighter bottles. Symington is building a new low-impact winery at their organically farmed Quinta do Ataíde, expected to be the first LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certified winery in Portugal.
And sustainability applies to the community. According to Martha Barra, at her winery they are careful to make sure their workers have adequate housing, transportation, meals and pay above the average compensation. Symington is certified as a “B Corporation”. B (as in Benefit) Corporations consider the impact of their decisions on their workers, customers, suppliers, community, and the environment. Rupert Symington said, “B Corp is a particularly exciting departure for us as it … involves our staff as well as the community around us and obliges us to make continuous improvements”.
Part 2: Advances in Sustainability
In many ways, the movement to sustainable agriculture around the world has be led by winegrowers and winemakers. Below are examples of innovative efforts in California, Argentina, and Italy.
A pioneer in California’s sustainability movement, since 1985, the Benziger family has farmed their vineyards (and purchased fruit) to certified sustainable, organic and biodynamic standards. Biodiversity – with beneficial animals, gardens – plays a key role in the success of the state. Their full flavored 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) shows organic wines can be good and affordable. From their biodynamic Sonoma Mountain Estate, the 2016 Signaterra Cabernet Sauvignon “Sunny Slope Vineyard” ($59) displays the deep fruit and firm palate worthy of its price.
Also in 1985, Spottswoode Estate Winery became the first organically farmed vineyard in Napa Valley. Since then, Spottswoode has emerged as a social and environmental leader, while rising to the top tier of the wine world. Recognizing the systemic nature of sustainability and the challenges of climate change, their estate emphasizes certified biodynamic vineyards and cultivates biodiversity with native cover crops, fruit trees, farm animals, bees and birds. And sustainability extends to business practices as Spottswoode is a certified B Corp, a member of 1% for the Planet, and utilizes solar power for most winery and vineyard operations.
Try the pure citrus, mineral and herbal character of the 2019 Sauvignon Blanc ($42) represents beautifully. It is one of California’s best.
Since 2004, JONATA Estate in Ballard Canyon within the Santa Ynez Valley of Santa Barbara, has practiced a form of sustainable farming they call “polyface”. This practice integrates and revolves livestock animals around the ranch to enhance soil health and promote the natural ecosystem. The 2017 Todos “Everyone” Red Wine Vineyard Blend ($50), combines Bordeaux and Rhone varieties (syrah, cabernet sauvignon, petit sirah, petit verdot, merlot, cabernet franc) to dramatic, full-bodied effect.
BouchaineVineyards, established in 1981, is one of Carneros’ founding wineries. A leader of sustainable viticulture, this family-owned property was the first winery to receive Fish Friendly Certification (2004) and also is Napa Green Certified for both vineyards and winery. With the cooling influence of the proximate San Pablo Bay, Carneros has become known for fine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Bouchaine’s 2018 Estate Pinot Meunier (from the lesser known grape of Champagne) is bright and fresh with strawberry and pomegranate, hint of savory, earthy mushrooms, and cinnamon.
O’Neill Vintners &Distillers, through its Paso Robles-based Robert Hall Winery has initiated a study of regenerative viticulture. It is a comparative trial to learn about regenerative farming with organic and biodynamic farming techniques, comparing the results with conventionally farmed vineyards. An interesting feature will be the involvement of biodynamic consultant Philippe Armenier, whose family’s highly regarded Domaine de Marcoux was a pioneer of biodynamics in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. “While biodynamic and organic farming are age old practices, we want to examine the effectiveness of carbon sequestration through regenerative farming practices, along with quality and cost determinations,” says Founder and CEO Jeff O’Neill.
While awaiting the results, enjoy the well fruited 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) with its red currant balanced with friendly tannins and spicy herbal notes.
Of course, as noted above, the movement to sustainable agriculture has spread around the world. In the dry growing conditions of Argentina, organic viticulture is especially attractive.
Argentina’s largest exporter of organically grown wines, Domaine Bousquet produces those certified organically grown wines from the high-altitude Tupungato zone in Mendoza’s Uco Valley. Its Sparkling Rosé ($13), a delightful three-quarters pinot noir, one-quarter chardonnay blend, is a fantastic value. Made using the Charmat method, this bubbly offers delightfully juicy cherry and strawberry with a hint of toast and creaminess, finishing lively and tangy.
Italy also is experiencing widespread interest in sustainable winegrowing. For a country where wine has been made for around 2000 years, this might be a little bit “back to the future”. Wine has been made at what is now known as Badia a Coltibuono for nearly a thousand years. All of its estate grapes are now organically grown. And Badia is one of the leading advocates of organic farming in Tuscany. A good introduction is the abundant 2019 “Colmaia” Sangiovese ($13), released under the Cultusboni label, which is a line of everyday, affordable wines.
Sustainability also is growing in importance in Sicily. A leader in sustainable winegrowing, the Tasca d’Almerita estates are known for their commitment to the “SOStain” protocol for water conservation, carbon reduction, lighter bottle weights, biodiversity, energy saving and farmer health.
The family’s Tenuta Tascante (founded in 2007) with vineyards planted in the rich volcanic soils on the northern side of Europe’s tallest active volcano, Mount Etna focuses production predominantly on native varietals like the nerello mascalese of its 2017 Ghiaia Nera Etna Rosso ($21), which bursts with red fruits followed by hints of minerals.
NOTE: Featured image courtesy of Spottswoode Vineyard
