The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

Sparkling wine is so popular some version of it is made in almost every country that produces wine. Sadly, most of it is drunk only during holidays or special occasions. That certainly is understandable, as these wines just seem to make any occasion seem more festive, more special. 

And that is why, this year, I decided to publish my annual sparkling wine column AFTER the holidays. My mission here is to convince you to drink sparkling wine throughout the year.

Sparkling wine is so popular some version of it is made in almost every country that produces wine. Sadly, most of it is drunk only during holidays or special occasions. That certainly is understandable, as these wines just seem to make any occasion seem more festive, more special. 

And that is why, this year, I decided to publish my annual sparkling wine column AFTER the holidays. My mission here is to convince you to drink sparkling wine throughout the year.

This year, I’ve been drinking a lot of Crémant d’Alsace. This bubbly from a region better known for amazing Rieslings and Gewurztraminers is produced from the classic Champagne varieties – pinot noir and chardonnay – though pinot blanc, pinot gris and riesling may make it into some blends. Crémant d’Alsace rosés, though, are made from 100% Pinot Noir. All wines made using the same method as in Champagne, usually described on labels as “Méthode Champenoise” or “Méthode Traditionnelle”. These wines, which are nonvintage can be approached as more affordable alternatives to nonvintage Champagne, with comparable quality.

Prosecco, that foamy, fruity northeastern Italian wine from the native glera grape, has vaulted in popularity in recent years. When I visited the region in 2001, I became aware of the reputation of Adami as one of the region’s best producers. The winery is known especially for its single vineyard Prosecco (a pretty rare thing in the region). Probably more important, though, is all its wines are distinguished by aging with extended lees contact before the secondary fermentation that produces the bubbles. And that secondary fermentation takes place in small batches throughout the year (the common process is to ferment shortly after harvest in one large batch). 

Ever heard of “Methode Cap Classique”? It’s a creative way of describing South African sparkling wine made in the traditional Champagne Method. MCCs often use traditional Champagne varieties, as well as more signature South African grapes like Chenin Blanc. These are up and coming bubbly that deserve your attention.

RECOMMENDATIONS:

Crémant d’Alsace 

• Lucien Albrecht (a pioneer in the establishment of Alsace Crémant nearly fifty years ago): Brut ($23) mostly pinot blanc; fresh and crisp apple and apricot with pleasant saline and chalky notes. Brut Rosé ($23) 100 percent pinot noir; fresh strawberry and citrus, creamy palate

• François Baur Brut Réserve (established in 1741, now farming biodynamically): pinot blanc, riesling, chardonnay, pinot gris; tropical fruit, lychee, soft palate

• Dopff & Irion Rosé Brut (one of the first Alsace wineries to use the Champagne Method): 100% pinot noir; pretty cherry, crisp and upstanding 

• Gustave Lorentz Brut (family owned since 1836, estate vineyards are organic): chardonnay pinot blanc and pinot noir; bright citrus, juicy, fresh and a little spicy 

Adami Prosecco 

• “Garbel” Treviso Brut ($16) the family’s entry-level Prosecco; lemon, pear, honey

• “Dei Casel” Valdobbiadene DOCG Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry ($20) a bit of sweetness, lightly floral with citrus

• “Bosco di Gica” Valdobbiadene DOCG Prosecco Superiore Brut ($20), Adami’s best-known wine and a perennial favorite of mine; uplifting foam, brisk citrus with tangy finish

• 2018 “Vigneto Giardino” Valdobbiadene DOCG Rive di Colbertaldo Asciutto  ($22) the first single-vineyard Prosecco ever made; opens with fruit punch, a hint of anise, mouthfilling and finishes with a blast of fruit

Methode Cap Classique 

• Boschendal Brut Rosé ($28) mostly pinot noir, with a touch of pinotage and chardonnay from the estate’s top vineyards; displays notes of red berries, with some complexity 

• 2013 Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs ($29) 100 percent chardonnay; a selection of the estate’s highest-quality chardonnay; crisp lemon wrapped in toasty crème brûlée; drinks intense, brisk and austere

• 2015 Ken Forrester Sparklehorse ($30) 100% Chenin Blanc; hints of creaminess yield to tight, brisk citrus and apple, my favorite of the three

Ok procrastinators (like me)! You have maybe have 24 hours left to get some wine for gifts, Christmas dinners, parties or receptions. In this column, the last of a three part series, I recommend many budget friendly wines that would be ideal for any of these purposes.

Let’s begin with Malbec from Argentina. Trapiche is one of Argentina’s largest and oldest (129 years) producers. Yet, they generate quality at every price level. These two are fine everyday values. The 2016 Medalla ($25) – tasty and firm berry and currant – and the 2017 Broquel ($15) – soft, fresh, friendly – are good examples of why Argentinian Malbec is so popular with consumers.

For a variation on the theme, look to Chile and Carmenère. A good place to start is with the 2017 Marques Casa Concha ($25). A product of Concha y Toro, Chile’s largest wine company, it is sourced from two historic vineyards, Puente Alto and Pirque, both located in the Maipo region. It is pleasantly earthy and herbal, with berry and pepper, finishing with solid tannins. 

One of my favorite sources of good value wines is Portugal. And the wines from Symington Family Estates, whether the famous Ports or the table wines that are growing in reputation. For instance, the 2017 Vale do Bomfim ($13) is a “go to” value wine for me. Made with fruit from vineyards that supply the Port producer Dow’s, its fruit suggest dark plum with that followed by peppery and stony notes. It drinks rather firm and full. 

Speaking of Port, it is something I really crave this time of year. A good place to get introduced to this sweet, high alcohol, intensely flavorful dessert wine is with Graham’s “Six Grapes” Reserve Port ($25). For a few dollars more, you can enjoy a Dow’s “10 Year Old Tawny” Porto ($37). Aged in wood for an average of ten years, it is delightfully mellow with succulent fig and plum, with a little bitter almond.  

Just because we are in the middle of the cooler seasons, doesn’t mean you should forget about Rosé. And where better to look than France and Provence. The 2018 La Bernarde (Les Hauts du Luc) Cotes de Provence ($20) is a blend of 40 percent cinsault, 40 percent grenache and 20 percent rolle (a white grape). Made with organic grapes, it offers interesting stone and melon aromas, with an herbal touch. The palate is fresh with citrus and strawberry. 

Rosé has become so popular over the last couple of years, it seems like every wine region is getting into the act. Like South Africa with the 2018 Backsberg Pinotage Rosé ($13). From a winery with a 100 year winemaking history, expectedly it opens with appealing raspberry and citrus followed by a palate of tangy, juicy red berries, and finishes with a bit of spice.

And let’s not forget white wine. From Germany and the highly regarded Mosel producer Nik Weis, the 2018 St. Urbans-Hof Ockfener Bockstein Kabinett ($22) is a fine value. It offers floral aromas with a steely quality to its dominant lime fruit and drinks crisp and refreshing. 

For more affordable, dry white wines, I found two nice options from neighboring France, specifically Bordeaux. From Clarence Dillon Wines, the owners of the famed Château Haut-Brion and importer other many other well-regarded Bordeaux château, the 2018 Clarendelle Blanc ($19) is a fine place to start. With 42 percent semillon, 30 percent sauvignon, and 28 percent muscadelle, the wine is marked by lemon, lime, and herbs. 

The 2017 Légende Blanc ($18) also comes from premier Bordeaux pedigree, in this case the Domaines Barons de Rothschild of Château Lafite. This one is 50 percent sauvignon and 30 percent semillon from the sub-appellation Entre-deux-Mers. It is brisk with apple, citrus, and tropical fruit. 

And now for some affordable red Bordeaux – yes, there is such a thing. Actually here are three really good values.

2015 Légende ($50). With 70 percent cabernet sauvignon and 30 percent merlot from the commune of Pauillac, the winemaking team at Lafite has produced a wine of classic blackberry and currant with cedar notes and hints of olive and tobacco. It drinks nicely rounded but finishes with lively tension. 

2015 Château Cap Leon Veyrin ($18). From Listrac, this Cru Bourgeois is composed of 55 percent merlot, 40 percent cabernet sauvignon, and 5 percent petit verdot. Its nice black fruit is delivered with a sense of density and is accented with hints of toastiness. It finishes with solid tannins suggesting it would benefit from a few years of development.

2016 Château Laffitte Carcasset ($23). Also a Cru Bourgeois, this one from from Saint-Estèphe is, to my palate, the best of these three. Bursting with plum and currant fruit, wrapped in nicely integrated cedar/oak, there is a sense of richness, while the fruit is structured with fresh tannins. It is 47 percent cabernet sauvignon, 40 percent merlot, 7 percent cabernet franc and 6 percent press wine.

Finally, from Australia three really good wines from Two Hands, all 2018 vintage and $33, are ideal either for gifts or for drinking yourself.

• “Sexy Beast” Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale offers interesting pencil shavings and mint aromas, followed by flavors of black currant and licorice. It is focused, with silky texture.
• “Angel’s Share” Shiraz McLaren Vale presents vibrant cherry and raspberry, with crisp, fine grained tannin and finishes with spice notes. 
• “Gnarly Dudes” Shiraz Barossa Valley is bold and energetic with juicy berries, with a touch of licorice, black pepper and meaty notes.

Whether you realize it or not most wines you drink are blends of multiple grapes. Yes, certain grapes make fine wine flying solo but just as cultural diversity is a societal strength, so varietal diversity has its benefits. Each of the wines below (listed in order of my preference in each category) displays the synergy that embodies the classic sentiment of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts. 

First, I tasted a few Good Values. These wines emphasize fresh fruit and approachable tannins making for immediate enjoyment. And they are they are priced to make them ideal for a weeknight meal or to help stretch your holiday dollars. 

2016 Bonterra “Equinox” ($16) made with organic grapes, this merlot/petite sirah mix is open and friendly with ripe fruit, and a round, smooth texture. 

2016 Seven Deadly Red ($16) another welcoming wine, this one shows red berries and hints of black pepper from zinfandel and petite sirah (with dashes of cabernet sauvignon and merlot). 

2016 The Federalist “Honest” ($18) with President Lincoln on the label (of course), this one’s mostly merlot and zinfandel; expect mixed red berries, hint of tobacco, light spice, and smooth texture. 

For many, the Bordeaux formula blending various percentages of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, and petit verdot is the template. The wines below are variations on this classic style. The prices increase but so does the flavor interest. 

2016 Ramey “Claret” ($42) this one is half cabernet sauvignon and one quarter merlot, with doses of malbec, syrah and petit verdot; it is accessible yet with good structure, showing sturdy dark fruits. 

2015 J. Lohr “Cuvée ST. E” ($50) emulating the wines of Saint-Émilion with four fifths cabernet franc and one fifth cabernet sauvignon, this is fleshy, ripe, and oaky, with roasted notes, and a plush finish. 

2016 Chalk Hill Red Wine Sonoma County ($70) at 86 percent cabernet sauvignon, this could legally qualify as a varietal wine. Supplemented with malbec, zinfandel, and merlot, it is rich with concentrated stewed berries lively presented, finishing with soft tannins. 

2016 Dry Creek “The Mariner” Dry Creek Valley ($50) roughly two thirds cabernet sauvignon with smaller amounts for the other Bordeaux varieties, this displays rather intense berries and currants with a full texture and husky finish.

2017 Chappellet “Mountain Cuvee” ($35) another wine mingling all five traditional Bordeaux grapes, it is lively, with sweet fruit, and savory character.  

2015 Fifty Harvests “Meritage” Napa Valley ($50) at three fourths cabernet sauvignon and one fourth petit verdot, this collaboration of winemakers Paul Scotto, Mitch Cosentino, and Mark Smith is deep, fruit forward, herbal, and freshly textured. 

2015 McIntyre “Per Ardua” Kimberly Vineyard ($60) the inaugural release of this SIP Certified, sustainably grown wine, from Arroyo Seco in Monterey County is dominated by merlot; hints of tobacco accent tight, dark fruit.

2016 Dry Creek “Meritage” ($30) using all five varieties but dominated by two thirds merlot, this opens with bright fruit that leads to a fairly full, yet supple wine. 

Still others take southern France as inspiration, blending grapes like syrah, grenache, mourvedre, and petite sirah. The ones in this report, though, also mix in Bordeaux and Italian grapes. This is California, after all. 

2015 Bootleg Red Wine ($38) a majority merlot fortified with petite sirah and syrah, this is an intense, rich style with blackberry, full and firm, with notes of peppery spice. 

2016 Adobe Road “Apex” ($76) let’s call this a Bordeaux (50 percent cabernet sauvignon/22 percent merlot) and Rhône (23 percent syrah/5 percent petite sirah) fusion, where the Bordeaux grapes provide savory structure and the Rhône grapes supply spicy, juicy fruit; another concentrated, ripe style. 

2016 Adobe Road “Redline” ($35) sort of a teenage Apex, with malbec sitting in for merlot and a significant addition zinfandel; its slightly less full but ripe fruit and spice are the dominant features. 

2017 J. Lohr “Pure Paso” ($27) a new red from this influential Paso Robles producer merges cabernet sauvignon and petite sirah to fine effect with smoky dark fruits, a burly frame and savory finish.

Finally, the uncharacterizable 2017 Upshot Red Blend ($28). This unconventional combination of merlot, zinfandel, malbec, riesling, and petit verdot is surprisingly balanced, but expectedly fresh and juicy, and a touch savory. 

Although cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, merlot, and zinfandel remain the most popular red wine grapes in California, if you’re like me, you crave something different now and then. Here are a few of the most interesting ones – mostly Rhône varieties, with a couple of Bordeaux and one Spanish – I’ve tasted over the past several months. The wines are listed in order of preference within each category but all are recommended. 

Syrah, also known as Shiraz in Australia, is one of the noblest grapes of the Rhône Valley, and the most widely planted Rhône variety in the state. Syrah is most closely associated with the Northern Rhône appellations of Hermitage and Côte-Rotie, where it produces wines of phenomenal elegance and longevity. 

2015 Bootleg “Prequel” ($35) Bootleg is a label associated with Jackson Family Wines and made with Sonoma County fruit, including fifteen percent petite sirah. This is a luscious wine with supple tannins and a velvety, lingering finish. It is exuberant, bold, with concentrated fruit, yet drinks with a sense of richness and opulence. 

2017 Beckmen Clone #1 ($52) The Beckman family has been crafting exceptional wines in Santa Barbara County since 1994. Their Purisma Mountain Vineyard, planted to mostly Rhône varieties, along with chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, is Demeter Certified biodynamic. This wine is one of the only Syrahs centered solely on Clone #1. It reflects the clone’s distinct savory profile of dark fruit with chocolate notes to compliment the variety’s red berry and peppery character.

2016 Sosie “Vivio Vineyard” ($38) Located in Bennett Valley near the Petaluma Gap that funnels cooling Pacific air inland, this young Sonoma winery has produced a wine that reflects those conditions with bright red fruit and refreshing acidity, bold flavors and tannic finish.

2016 Cuvaison “Diablo” ($45) Referring to the Diablo clay soil where this independent, family-owned winery, a pioneer of the Carneros region since 1969, grows the syrah in its estate vineyard, this wine is plump and fruit driven, with meaty and peppery notes. 

Grenache is believed to have originated in Spain, where it is known as garnacha. It is now the most widely planted grape in the southern Rhône Valley (and especially renowned in Châteauneuf-du-Pape) and the second most widely planted grape worldwide. It is most often blended, such as with syrah and mourvèdre in France and Australia and with tempranillo in Rioja.

2017 Beckmen Purisima Mountain ($50) This wine exhibits bright red fruits, baking spices and a silky texture. 

2018 Breaking Bread Redwood Valley ($24) A new project by the winemaker of Kokomo Winery, Erik Miller, the defining characteristic is whole-cluster fermentation (carbonic maceration). Miller also uses all native yeast for spontaneous fermentation, all native bacteria for malolactic fermentation, and adds no sulphur throughout fermentation. This produces a fresh, lighter style but is still structured and quite tasty, with candied red berries. 

Mourvèdre also is native to Spain, where it is known as Monastrell. Its wine typically is more structured and fuller bodied than Grenache but less concentrated than Sryah. It is the most important grape of the Provençalwine region of Bandol.

2016 Tablas Creek “Esprit de Tablas” ($60) Tablas Creek is the result of decades of collaboration among two of the wine community’s leading families: the Perrin family, proprietors of Château de Beaucastel and the Haas family of Vineyard Brands importers. In 1989, they purchased a 120-acre parcel twelve miles from the Pacific Ocean in what is now the Adelaida District in Paso Robles and released their first wine in 1997. With mourvedre as its backbone supplemented with syrah, grenache and counoise, this is structured but sleek and rich, quite spicy, with deep berry fruit, earthy, and meaty accents. 

2016 J. Lohr “Gesture” ($30) Gesture is a line of wines generally available only to J. Lohr wine club members and tasting room visitors. Now, the winery is making these limited production wines available on their website. From a vineyard in the highly sought after Adelaida district of Paso Robles, this shows nice blackberry with mint and oak. It is firm and rich, with hints of pencil shavings. 

The petite sirah grape originated in southern France when a scientist crossed the syrah and peloursin grapes in 1880. Introduced in California shortly thereafter, it has been a popular blending grape ever since.

2016 Concannon Livermore Valley ($20) From a family that has been making wine since 1883 and that lays claim to producing the first varietal Petite Sirah in 1961, this is typically intense but with well managed tannins, sweet berries, and baking spices.  

2017 Mettler Estate ($25) From a family that has been growing grapes in California’s Lodi appellation for over 100 years and has become leaders in organically and sustainably grown viticulture. The wine is husky but drinks smoothly with a lot of flavor.

In addition to these Rhône-style wines, I enjoyed two fine Cabernet Franc-based wines. Cabernet Franc originated in the Basque region of Southwestern France. Often used as a blending grape, most notably in Bordeaux, it also is prized for its signature savory character, including a distinctive tobacco and bell pepper notes. It is the dominant red grape of Chinon in the Loire Valley and often is a significant portion of the blends in St. Emilion. 

2016 Chappellet Napa Valley ($85) The Chappellet family has been producing highly prized wines since 1967 from their perch on Pritchard Hill overlooking the eastern Napa Valley. Renowned for their Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine arguably is equally impressive. With small amounts of cabernet sauvignon, malbec and petit verdot added, it is richly perfumed, silky, yet well structured and delivers a complex of ripe, concentrated red fruits, forest, and savory spices. 

2016 Ehler’s Estate Napa Valley ($65) Ehlers Estate is a winery and organic vineyard in Napa’s St. Helena sub-appellation that dates to 1886. All proceeds from the sale of its wines are returned to the LeDucq Foundation to support cardiovascular research. This wine is balanced with finesse but firm tannins; luscious fruit finishes nicely fresh. 

Some of my favorite wines anywhere have their origin in the south of France, in Spain and in Portugal. And they are ideal for the varied foods we eat during the holidays.

France’s Rhône Valley, for instance. It runs roughly from Vienne in the north to Avignon in the south. The northern Rhône, where the leading appellations are Hermitage and Côte Rôtie, is syrah country. 

While Saint-Joseph, a thirty mile long appellation along the western bank of the Rhône River, is considered secondary to them, its best wines can still approximate the substance and power, intense fruit, and firm tannins of those two but at more affordable prices. I really enjoyed the 2015 E. Guigal ($33), from a seventy-year-old firm with a reputation for quality at the top of the wine world. Moderately intense, fresh red berries mingle with herbs and suggestions of its granite soil. 

And Crozes-Hermitage similarly is generally a less structured, complex wine but some, like the 2017 Ferraton “La Matinière” ($26) are an exception to the rule. This is syrah for everyday drinking; expressive with plenty of bright, fresh fruit, notes of spice, leather and smoke and smooth texture. 

Do you know “The Prisoner”, the popular California red blend created by winemaker Dave Phinney and now owned by the drinks conglomerate Constellation Brands? Well, Mr. Phinney (while still responsible for Orin Swift wines) has moved on to southwestern France, namely the commune of Maury. A region with views of the Pyrenees and just two hours north of Barcelona, Phinney was mesmerized by its steep vineyards of mostly old grenache vines and other Rhône varieties. 

For about ten years now, Phinney has been making wine there under the Department 66 name (a reference to its administrative division and also known as the Côtes Catalanes wine region). Made primarily from grenache, the wines he makes here are potent, intense and luscious. 

The 2014 “D66” ($38) is dark, deep, voluptuous dark berries, cassis, spice and earthy, stony notes, rich but drinks elegantly. The 2015 “Others” ($25) is made for earlier drinking, with plum, dark berries, earth, spice and floral notes, all going down easy with a supple texture.

Across the Pyrenees, Ribera del Duero produces many of Spain’s most prestigious wines. Tempranillo is the premier red grape, though here it is known as tinto fino or tinta del país. From García Figuero, the 2016 Tinto Figuero 12 ($32) is a Crianza that was aged 24 months before release with twelve months in barrel. It has a nice balance of fruit and oak, fresh cherry and plum, with notes of licorice, smoke and dark chocolate, light tannins and lively acidity support the supple texture.

Located in the northwestern region of Galicia, Valdeorras (valley of gold) has a wine growing history that dates at least to the Romans. Today, it is known for good value white wines from godello and red wines from mencía, such as the 2016 Pagos De Galir ($17). Smoky and leafy notes frame cherry and berry flavors in this fresh, focused red. Showing detail and balance, this is supple and expressive, with a juicy finish. 

Neighboring Portugal has long been a premier source of fine (especially red) table wine values. These days, wineries are contending at premium levels, too. 

The Symington family, a fifth generation Port producer and one of the most respected names in Portuguese wine, offers several good table wines. Typically they feature high proportions of touriga nacional and touriga franca, two of the major grapes of Port, occasionally with small amounts of others. From the family’s famed Quinta do Vesuvio vineyard, the 2015 Pombal de Vesuvio ($28) is full of ripe black fruits and minerality. The wine is intended for early drinking—rich with tannins but equally full of bright fruits. 

Prats + Symington is a twenty-year partnership between Charles Symington and Bruno Prats, the former winemaker and owner of Chateau Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux. This wine is intended to marry the best of both worlds. With fruit sourced from one of the oldest estates in Portugal, Quinta de Roriz, combined with Bordelaise winemaking, expect a complex, yet approachable wine. The 2017 Post Scriptum de Chryseia ($27) is designed for drinking in the near term. It is structured but expressive of red fruits and savory elements, elegant and finishes with relaxed tannins

I haven’t researched this in depth but I feel relatively comfortable in asserting that the diversity of wine grape varieties grown in the Mediterranean countries is the most, um, diverse on the planet. This also applies to Mediterranean white grapes, the subject of this column. In general, they offer a diversity of experiences, all of them with a crisp, refreshing character.

As it turns out, I had an overrepresentation of Italian wines in my recent tastings. I have written before about the amazing cornucopia of, by some estimates, about 2000 indigenous wine grape varieties grown in Italy – with about 400 vinified commercially. This vinous diversity includes fine white wines from familiar grapes like chardonnay and sauvignon. But I find the native varieties most worth seeking out, as well as usually budget friendly. Here are but a handful that deserves your attention. 

On the eastern coast of Central Italy on the Adriatic Sea, verdicchio is the signature white grape of the Le Marche region. Its name comes from the word “verde” because of the wines’ naturally green shades and dry, refreshing style. The best ones tend to carry the designation Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi Classico Superiore and typically feature brisk apple and citrus, with stony notes. One of the most respected producers and the oldest family-owned winery in the region (dating back to 1871), Garofoli specializes in the grape, especially from the prestigious Castelli di Jesi area. The fresh, elegant 2018 “Macrina” ($14), which is made with slightly late harvest grapes to add body, is emblematic of the style. Their 2016 “Podium” Classico Superiore ($26), a special selection of grapes from a single-vineyard, shows more intense fruit with honey and solid structure.

In nearby Abruzzo, the picturesque, mountainous region with the most national parks and fore­sts in Italy, the most common white grape is trebbiano. The 2017 Citra Trebbiano d’Abruzzo ($10) is a good introduction and an amazing value considering it is estate grown and bottled from a collection of family-owned vineyards in the Chieti, Abruzzo’s primary wine growing province. 

And I was impressed with two wines from pecorino, an old variety once thought to be extinct that has been resurrected in recent decades. Its wines typically are high acid, high alcohol, but still fresh and easy going. I enjoyed the luscious palate balanced with pleasant citrus of the nonvintage Ferzo ($26) and appreciated the organic and biodynamic farming methods employed for the 2017 Fattoria La Valentina ($16). 

Sicily’s indigenous grapes also are generating much interest. The Tasca family, one of Sicily’s oldest winemaking families (since the 1830’s), has been at the forefront of preserving and promoting many of the island’s local grapes, like catarratto, which generally produces neutral wines but the Tasca’s have shown it can excel when treated with care. Their Tenuta Regaleali estate also is committed to sustainability in the vineyards and the winery. The 2017 Catarratto “Antisa” ($20) belies the grape’s history of being used solely in blends. Even with no oak influence, it is fairly full-bodied wine with deep citrus notes complimented with flowery elements. The 2018 Bianco ($15) a blend of inzolia (47%), grecanico (22%), catarratto (25%) and chardonnay (6%) – whew!, is well rounded with crisp acidity, a refreshing sipper unexpectedly full of flavor.

Under the Tenuta Tascante banner, the Tasca family also promotes native varieties of the Mt. Etna province. The tallest, most active volcano in Europe also happens to overlook volcanic soils, old vines, and multiple microclimates, making for some world-class vineyards. Ahead of the curve for an area that has become a darling of the wine industry, the family makes wines, for example, from carricante, which has been described as Etna’s best white variety. The 2017 Carricante “Buonora” ($21) shows the grape’s signature mineral and saline character balanced with crisp apple and citrus and lightly herbal notes. 

Nearby Greece also has seen a modern renaissance in winemaking even as wineries rediscover its ancient native grape varieties, such as moschofilero and malagouzia. Since we’re looking at crisp, versatile white wines in this column, a side trip seems appropriate. These two grapes, with their aromatic, floral notes, are distinctive alternatives to the so-called international varieties, like chardonnay. 

Moschofilero has been cultivated in Greece for centuries, mainly grown in the Peloponnese peninsula. This pink-skinned variety is also used for rosés and sparkling wines. It produces lighter-bodied, intensely floral, fresh wines with crisp acidity and notes of lychee, melon, and lemon, such as the delightful 2016 Boutari ($15). From Domaine Skouras comes a unique style in the 2016 Salto “Wild Yeast” ($19), labeled “Moscofilero”, which is quite crisp and tart with citrus and a touch of tropical fruit.

Found in central Greece and Macedonia, malagouzia, a grape that almost became extinct, exemplifies the contemporary interest in Greece’s vinous history. The 2016 Alpha Estate ($15) is emblematic of the variety’s intense nose and highly expressive floral, citrus, tropical and stone fruit with fresh herb notes. It is full and round yet vibrant and fresh.

Finally, to round out my tasting: from Galicia in northwestern Spain, comes an even lesser known grape: godello-doña blanca. The 2016 Godelia Godello ($17), from the sub-region of Bierzo, reveals the grape’s ability to produce concentrated but fresh, mineral-driven whites. From the nearby Valdeorras sub-appellation within the Galicia region (where the grape is believed to have originated), the 2015 Pagos del Galir Godello ($19) satisfies with citrus and a savory note.

And … finally, from France, specifically the Côtes du Rhône, the 2017 Les Dauphins Blanc ($11) marries honeyed aromas and fresh fruit. Typical of Southern Rhône whites, it is a blend in this case of mostly grenache blanc with some marsanne, clairette and viognier. 

While Chardonnay is still the most popular American wine and Sauvignon Blanc is a solid second (and I’ve written about both recently), many wine buyers are showing more interest in a diversity of flavor profiles from other grapes. Generally, you should find the wines in this column are bright, food-friendly and meant to be enjoyed at any time but especially with food. 

Let’s begin with several wines from Rhone varieties.

Viognier. Viognier once upon a time was quite rare but is now the most-planted white Rhone varietal in the United States. It produces wines with intense aromatics of peach, apricot, apple, and floral notes, as well as viscosity and lushness. Maybe that’s why there were more of these in my tastings. Listed in order of preference: My favorite was the 2017 Chappellet Cold Creek Vineyard (rich, luxurious, $38), followed closely by the 2017 J. Lohr Gesture (juicy, honeyed, $30). 

I also enjoyed two wines with a bonus of being “SIP (Sustainability in Practice) Certified”, which recognizes sustainable winegrowing and winemaking, environmental preservation, and social responsibility: the 2018 Record Family Wines Paso Robles (silky, tangy, $25) and 2018 Opolo Central Coast (intense, viscous, $26). 

Roussanne. Although very little Roussanne is grown in the US, I often find it is results equal to Viognier, with its honeyed richness, savory, exotic and fruity notes. I really enjoyed the delicate, natural acidity of the 2015 Sosie Vivio Vineyard Bennett Valley (Sonoma County, $38). 

Grenache Blanc. A mutation of the red grape grenache, grenache blanc is widely grown in the south of France. It produces fuller bodied wines with citrus and melon, such as the 2017 Halter Ranch Adelaida District Estate Bottled (Paso Robles, $34), another SIP Certified wine.

Picpoul Blanc. According to Tablas Creek winery, picpoul blanc is one of the lesser-known Rhône grapes and rare in California. But they have revealed its promise in that state. Their 2018 Adelaida District (Paso Robles, $30) is a good representative of the bright acidity, minerality, lemon and herbal qualities typical of wines from this grape. 

Several other regions of France also were represented in my tastings:

Muscat. One of the most aromatic of grapes, several varieties in the muscat family are grown all over the Mediterranean and can yield luscious dry or sweet wines known for floral and spicy characteristics – such as with the 2018 Eberle Muscat Canelli Paso Robles ($22). 

White Pinot Noir. The 2018 Left Coast White Pinot Noir ($24) actually is a white wine made from Burgundy’s premier red grape, pinot noir – think citrus, apple, pear, orange – crafted by not allowing the juice to have contact with the skins. 

Pinot Gris. This grape – generally noted for stone fruit, melon, and citrus – is genetically a clone of pinot noir, and is believed to have originated in Burgundy yet these days is more prominent in Alsace, Germany and Austria (where it is known as grauburgunder or ruländer), and, of course, Italy (where it is known as pinot grigio). It’s the leading white variety in Oregon and increasingly popular in California. Its name also refers to the greyish color of its skin. It was the next most represented grape in my tastings. 

Wines labeled Pinot Gris stylistically are expected to be more in the Alsatian style: ripe, full bodied and sumptuous. Like the viscous caramel and pear of the 2018 Chehalem “Chehalem Mountains” (Willamette Valley, $25) and the crisp, tangy, citrus of the 2018 Left Coast “The Orchard”  ($18). From California, the lush, though tight honeysuckle, peach and the melon of the 2018 Fel Anderson Valley ($25) delivers much enjoyment. 

Chenin Blanc. Primarily associated with the Loire Valley but increasingly successful in South Africa, it can produce impressively complex, luscious dry or sweet wines. Unfortunately, California versions are often simple. But not the 2018 Dry Creek Vineyard “Dry” ($16). From a choice vineyard in Clarksburg in Lodi, it is aromatic and brisk, balanced with bright apple and honey. The 2018 Chappellet “Molly Chappellet” Napa Valley ($38) is a lot of wine, rewarding drinkers with a complex of citrus, apricot, and stone fruits complimented by apple notes. 

And then there were several from other European countries:

Riesling. Although it still has a reputation of being only a sweet wine, Riesling – the iconic wine of Germany – often delightfully balances residual sugar and bracing acidity. But more and more, dry or off-dry Riesling is taking its place at the table. The best wines delightfully balance juicy, dramatic expressions of apple, grapefruit or peach (and sometimes peach or apricot) with bracing acidity, occasionally with steely, mineral components. It is intensely aromatic, impressively structured, and amazingly expressiveness of its terroir. The 2017 Kung Fu Girl Columbia Valley ($13) from Charles Smith Wines is an affordable introduction to New World Riesling. Its fresh minerality and sharp core cut through the mildly sweet pear fruit. 

Kerner. With origins in Germany, Kerner is a cross between riesling and trollinger (also known as schiava grossa in Italy). It’s rare in Europe and even rarer in California. That’s part of what makes the floral, citrusy 2018 Sidebar Cellars ($25) so interesting. From the Mokelumne River AVA in Lodi, winemaker David Ramey sourced the fruit from the only kerner planting in California – the Mokelumne Glen Vineyard to make the only 100% Kerner bottling in California. 

It is a dry, deeply aromatic, medium-bodied, satisfying wine. 

Grüner Veltliner. Austria’s signature grape has become so popular we have begun to see small but increasing plantings in California. It produces outgoing, lively wines, with succulent fruit – citrus and tropical – and hints of mineral and spice. The 2017 Fiddlehead Cellars Fiddlestix Vineyard ($30) from Sta. Rita Hills in Santa Barbara County is a good introduction to what this grape can do in California.

Albariño. Primarily identified with northwest Spain and Portugal (where it is known as alvarinho) it can make invigorating, floral and citrus-flecked wines. There also are some interesting, successful examples in California, notably in the central coast regions, where I found these two: 2017 Castoro Cellars Double Black Vineyard ($30) – an Estate Grown wine from Paso Robles with hints of fig; and the fruity 2018 Opolo Edna Valley ($26) with nutty notes. Both are SIP Certified.

Falanghina. An Italian grape primarily cultivated in Campania in southern Italy, with some production in the neighboring regions of Puglia and Abruzzo, its wines tend to aromatic apple, peach, and almond, with herbal streaks. The fresh, crisp 2017 Castoro Cellars Whale Rock Vineyard ($30), from Estate Grown Paso Robles fruit, is a tasty example.