What initially looked like a fad, a marketing Hail Mary, now looks like it could be a bona fide wine category. Recent market research about wine buying preferences has suggested shifts in consumer preferences for packaging alternatives to bottles. Particularly, the data revealed a rise in sales of canned wine, which notably tend to be sold in smaller formats and promote convenience. Total growth in wine sales the last year was three percent, while overall growth in canned wines was 80 percent, according to the Nielsen data.
Similarly, recent research by WICresearch found strong consumer preference for smaller sizes of wine-in-a-can. Respondents said they preferred smaller can size because of convenience, occasion, sustainability and portion control/variety sampling. Even within the category, there seems to be a move to the 250ml format (roughly equivalent to 1 ½ glasses, sold in 4 packs) and the 187ml size (essentially one glass), though the 375ml package (equal to two ample glass pours) still leads sales.
As far as types of wine, Rosé led the growth with nearly double the annual sales of other leading varietals, though white wines still are slightly more popular. I tasted samples from six brands and found most of the wines to be good quality, especially for the modest prices. Not surprising, this isn’t where you go for complexity and depth. But you can expect bright, fresh, fruity and varietally accurate wines.
Canned Oregon. From the highly respected Stoller Winery and definitely focused on appealing to the outdoor adventure lifestyle. I found each of the wines – including Rosé, Pinot Noir, and White Bubbles – to be of good quality, but especially enjoyed the Pinot Gris and Rosé Bubbles. ($6/375 ml)
Cascadian Outfitters. From Goose Ridge Estate in Columbia Valley and owned by a family with about a hundred-year history of farming Vineyards in Washington. The Rosé, Chardonnay and Red Blend all were of high quality. These wines are promoted as one of the only canned wines to be sourced from all estate vineyards. ($5/375 ml)
Dark Horse. This is one of Gallo’s most popular brands in bottle and now also in cans. To me, the Pinot Grigio, Rosé, and Brut Bubbles were pleasantly straightforward. The Rosé Bubbles was a notable exception with its fresh cherry, raspberry and crisp palate. ($6/375 mml)
Day Owl. From O’Neill Vintners & Distillers (maker of national brands Line 39, Harken, Exitus, Robert Hall and Austerity). Made with grapes from California’s Central Valley and Central Coast, this Rosé is delightfully bright and refreshing. ($7/375 ml)
Joe to Go. A brand of canned wine recently added to the “Wine by Joe” portfolio, the everyday wine project of Dobbes Family Estate in Dundee, Oregon. The Pinot Gris, Rosé, and Pinot Noir are solid wines. ($7/375 ml)
Prophecy. Another Gallo brand, this one benefits from the company’s international reach. Of the wines I tasted, I most appreciated the Sauvignon Blanc, sourced from Marlborough, NZ and Rosé, from southern France. ($13/250 ml 2-packs)
So, the marketing pitch, in this case, generally fits the wines. These wines are ideal for casual occasions such as the pool, patio, beach, ballpark, picnics, concerts, hikes, and camping – all the places where bottles are precarious.
A final note: while these wines are easy to drink, be careful, particularly with the 375 ml cans, which generally contain twice the alcohol in a beer can and actually are half a bottle of wine.
Over the last few years, Rosé has really, finally found acceptance with the American consumer. Wine industry publications report double-digit growth in the category and even triple digit growth in some price ranges. Even rosé wine festivals are popping up, like the one in Denver recently.
This popularity is focused on dry wines modeled after European styles, not the sweet “blush” wines that have been popular for years. A variety of red grapes are used and the best wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. Expect a flavor profile similar to their red siblings, while they drink more like white wines.
Expect bright, fresh fruit aromas and flavors ranging from strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon.
Thankfully, this popularity has been accompanied by improved quality, as I found in my recent tastings. Because of their vibrant freshness and lively fruit, pink wines are almost always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available. Note, all wines here are 2018 vintage, unless otherwise stated.
Among Rosé devotees, France is the prime source. There is a dizzying array of French Rosés from all over the country (including Alsace, Loire, Champagne and Bordeaux) but most notably the south – places like Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, Bandol, Rhône Valley, and Tavel.
Rosé from Provence in particular offers consistent quality at reasonable prices. And Rosé from Côtes de Provence (made mostly from grenache) is especially popular. My recommended wines generally exhibited delicate, fresh red berries, crisp citrus fruits, juicy freshness, and a suggestion of creaminess:
Château Minuty, an 18th century estate using sustainable methods, offers the estate grown “Rosé et Or” ($40) with intense fruit and floral, spice notes and the tart but smooth “M de Minuty” ($21)
Domaine Cala, owned by Los Angeles celebrity Chef Joachim Splichal in the Coteaux Varois en Provence, has produced the savory “Classic” ($16) and the rich (likely from its oak aging) “Prestige” ($25)
Fleur de Mer ($17), produced by a cooperative near Saint-Tropez, is soft and appealing
Other southern France appellations also produce worthwhile rosés. From the Côtes du Rhône, the tart, spicy Les Dauphins ($12), from a 100-year-old producer, is ¾ grenache, with the rest cinsault and syrah. And I have two from the Pyrénées-Orientales, a department within Côtes du Roussillon bordering Spain: the fresh, lively Les Vignes de Bila-Haut ($15) from the great Rhône Valley producer Michel Chapoutier and from Department 66 (which is also an administrative division in the area and notably near the Pyrenees and France’s border with Spain), California winemaker Orin Swift owns a winery with the same name and makes the firm, round, spicy, alcoholic “Fragile” Rosé (2017, $18).
Italians also love Rosé, though it is often labeled Rosato. From the Veneto, the Tenuta Sant’Antonio winery (a well-known maker of Valpolicella and Soave) also produces fresh, focused wines from local and international varieties under the Scaia label. The Scaia Rosato ($13), 100 percent the native rondinella, is lively and juicy, fresh and focused.
I also was impressed with the Regaleali “Le Rose” ($15) from the prestigious Sicilian wine family, Tasca d’Almerita. Made from indigenous nerello mascalese grapes, it balances crispness with a suggestion of sweetness.
These days, it seems nearly every California winery produces a rosé. Most seem to focus either on Rhône varieties like syrah, grenache and mourvèdre or the Burgundian grape, pinot noir but you also can find other varieties and blends.
For Rhône fans, I recommend these from my tastings:
Beckmen Grenache “Purisma Mountain Vineyard” ($25), from Ballard Canyon in Santa Barbara County, is vibrant, sleek, lively.
Sosie Syrah “Vivio Vineyard” ($25) Bennett Valley Sonoma County produced with minimal intervention fresh, full, round
Cline Ancient Vines Mourvedre ($18) primitivo, zinfandel Sonoma-based winery produces fine values from Contra Costs County grapes tangy, juicy
2018 Oak Farm “Silvaspoons Vineyards” ($24) Lodi grenache intense, round
Edna Valley Vineyard ($12), a jewell of the central Coast, this San Louis Obispo winery blendingtempranillo, syrah, grenache, and mourvedre; tart, spicy
And I find it interesting that wineries seem to have latched on to pinot noir as the grape of choice. This is likely because the grape typically produces lighter colored wines anyway and tends to reveal its primary aromas and flavors at earlier ripeness than, say, cabernet sauvignon. These will satisfy Pinot Noir fans: the tangy, tart Cuvaison ($30) from Carneros; the full, juicy Riverbench ($25) from Santa Maria Valley; and from Oregon’s Willamette Valley, the racy, creamy Left Coast ($24); the intense, high-toned Stoller ($25); and juicy, tangy Chehalem ($25)
And for variety: try a longtime Zinfandel favorite the earthy, spicy Pedroncelli Dry Creek Valley “Signature Selection” ($17). This Sonoma stalwart has produced a certified sustainable wine easygoing with spice. And the Gamble Rosé ($22), from a family with 100 years farming in the Napa Valley, is a juicy, tangy, delightful Bordeaux-style blend.
No review of Rosé would be complete without pink bubbly:
From Italy’s Emilia-Romagna, Cleto Chiarli has been a benchmark for traditional, honest and high-quality Lambrusco for nearly 160 years in Modena. The NV Brut di Noir Rosé Spumante ($16) is a delightful Lambrusco from the local grasparossa grape and pinot nero (pinot noir) showing hints of cinnamon spice and sweetness.
From California, the J Vineyards Brut Rosé ($35) is a long time favorite. Its 66 percent pinot noir, 33 percent chardonnay, and 1 percent pinot meunier yield intense fruit balanced with creamy effervescence and the 2015 Cuvaison Brut Rosé ($50), a blend of 60 percent chardonnay and 40 percent pinot noir is rich and luscious.
From Oregon, Left Coast “Queen Bee Bubbly” ($24), a 100 percent pinot noir fermented in oak with a tirage including estate grown honey to feed the encapsulated yeast in the bottom of each bottle (usually the secondary fermentation to produce the bubbles is prompted with a sugar solution) is bright, fresh and surprisingly complex.
SAUVIGNON BLANC PROVIDES REFRESHING DRINKING FOR WARMER WEATHER
With the blistering weather (even in September these days!), it’s natural for wine drinkers to think about cooling off with a refreshing white wine. While most U.S. consumers still turn first to Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc is an ideal alternative.
Sauvignon Blanc’s flavor profile comes in several styles, though it’s usually assertively aromatic, with refreshing acidity. Generally expect brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) but also other citrus, especially grapefruit and a distinctive (sometimes spicy) herbaceousness. Some also are evocative of fresh cut hay or oats. Wines made from riper fruit often display peach, melon or even tropical fruits. These qualities make it an exceptional accompaniment to food.
It has a noble heritage as a parent (with cabernet franc) of cabernet sauvignon. It is responsible for the Loire Valley wines of Sancerre and Pouilly Fume and, with semillon, the white Bordeaux of Graves and Sauternes. The grape also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile.
Here I focus on California, where the styles vary by producer more than terroir, though climate does have its influences. Most of the wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel to emphasize fresh, varietal characteristics, while some use varying amounts of mostly neutral oak to round out flavors and texture. Still others emulate the aggressiveness of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
First, I found a number of good everyday values from the 2018 vintage at $20 and under. These tend to be lighter with the focus on varietal fruit. Think of them as everyday patio sippers. They are listed in order of preference but all are recommended:
Two Angels High Valley ($17) creamy, juicy, balanced
Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley ($20) enticing, spicy, sumptuous
Pedroncelli East Side Vineyards ($15) lively, tonic, herbal
J. Lohr “Flume Crossing” ($14) tangy, crisp
Dry Creek Vineyard Sonoma County “Fumé” ($16) energetic, lemongrass
As consumer friendly as these wines are, I found more complexity and flavor interest as prices escalated beyond $20. Also, I was surprised when I reviewed my tasting notes that all but one of these is from Napa. They are listed in order of preference but all are recommended:
2018 Spotswoode ($42). Combining fruit from the Spotswoode’s organic estate vineyard and other top Napa and Sonoma vineyards, this balances vibrancy and textural richness, with structure and complexity. Should age well for a few years.
2017 Cuvaison Méthode Béton ($35). The “method” is aging 12 months in concrete eggs (bétons). The result is fascinatingly different: graceful, yet refreshing, full, and persistent.
2017 Sonoma County’s Chalk Hill Estate ($33). The geographic outlier in this group turns fruit from its high altitude vineyards into wine that deftly balances a fair amount of oak with intense fruit, drinking with juicy acidity and a lush texture.
2018 Ehlers Estate ($32). From Ehler’s certified organic vineyard in the warmer climate near St. Helena, this is a succulent and racy counterpoint, having seen no oak. Still full-bodied, it is nicely savory.
2018 Gamble Vineyard ($28). The Gamble Family has produced a rich wine from their estate vineyard near centrally located Yountville,showing an oaky roundness with licorice and spice.
2018 Ladera ($30). With fruit from the cooler Oak Knoll District of southern Napa Valley, this offers brisk but juicy fruit, a touch of mineral, and a textural accent of oak.
2018 Cuvaison ($25). Without seeing any oak, this nicely expresses its cool climate Carneros estate vineyard fruit. It is brisk and assertive, yet juicy and luscious, finishing lightly spicy.
2018 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($30). Blending cool and warm sites throughout the valley, this quite aromatic wine includes a touch of semillon. It is notable for a hint of licorice, while showing a nice oaky texture.
DIFFERENT CHARDONNAY STYLES OFFER ENJOYMENT FOR WARM WEATHER (AND ALL YEAR)
As temperatures warm, many of us begin to crave more white wines,rosés, and lighter red wines. Among the whites, Chardonnay continues its several decade run as the undisputed favorite of American consumers. I suspect its main attraction is that good wine is available in at many price levels.
Although its popularity has fluctuated at times, it remains the world’s most popular grape.Certainly, California data show chardonnay was the most popular variety grown in 2018, just edging out cabernet sauvignon.I suspect its main attraction is that good wine is available in many styles, at many price levels.
Here, I highlight two basic styles of California and Oregon Chardonnay that basically draw inspiration from Burgundy, the historical benchmark for Chardonnay. Since Burgundy is the historical benchmark for Chardonnay, I find it useful to look there for comparisons to two general styles.
What has been described as traditional practices of the Côte d’Or – use of mostly new oak barrels for fermentation and aging, malolactic fermentation (“malo” converts sharper malic acid to richer lactic acid) and aging on the lees– produce wines of lush texture with notes of cream, butter, toast, butterscotch or vanilla. The grape’s natural citrus fruit may be complimented with, pear, peach, melon, fig or tropical fruit.
With these characteristics, it’s not surprising Chardonnay has been such a success. For a while, though, some wineries took this style to extremes. Luckily, after a period in the 1980s-1990s producing unbalanced wines (and some backlash from consumers), in the 2000s, growers and winemakers rediscovered the importance of producing harmonious wines.
A focus on cooler climate vineyards (where early ripening chardonnay thrives) and more respect in the growing and handling of the fruit (earlier harvest and more judicious use of oak, lees, and malo) has led to an abundance of good wine at (mostly) reasonable prices. As a result, this may be the best time to drink Chardonnay in decades.
Most wines in my tastings followed a version of the Côte d’Or approach. The ones below (in order of my personal preference but all are recommended) deftly walked the line between opulence and freshness, pure fruit and richness,delivering complexity with oak influence more as seasoning.
Most impressive to me were three single vineyard wines of the 2017 Chappellet Grower Collection ($45): “El Novillero” Carneros – refreshing apricot and peach, honey toast, hazelnut; “Calesa” Petaluma Gap – rich, buttery apple and white fruits fresh herbs spice tangerine nutty; and “Sangiacomo” Carneros – pure, sharp apple, pear, buttery rich.
2017 Left Coast “Truffle Hill” Willamette Valley ($24) delightful orange, tangerine, cashew
2017 J. Lohr Arroyo Vista ($25) juicy, citrus, pineapple, lush, balanced
2017 McIntyre Santa Lucia Highlands ($28) focused citrus, firm texture
At the other end of the spectrum, some wineries emulate what can be described as the Chablis style. By limiting the use of oak, especially new oak (both in fermentation and aging) and restricting malo, the intent is to allow more of the pure fruit to shine through, yieldingwines that are fresh, lively and vigorous. This style tends to present a lightness of being, though still with textural interest, intense aromatics and firm backbone.
2017 Jordan Alexander Valley ($34) dramatic apple and citrus, light butterscotch
2017 MacRostie Sonoma Coast ($25) zesty stone fruits, lightly savory
2017 FEL Anderson Valley ($32) mixed citrus, juicy, vigorous
2017 Calera Central Coast ($25) intensely crisp citrus, nicely creamy
2017 Scheid Estate Grown Monterey ($26) pure citrus, appealing sweet/tart
2015 J. McClelland Napa Valley ($35) brisk apple, cream, light spice
Three wines in my tastings eschewed oak altogether. The juice for these “unoaked” wines was fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. The 2018 Stoller Dundee Hills ($28) is a citrusy, peachy delight. The 2018 Chehalem “Inox” ($20) is focused and floral with peach and apple. The 2018 Kendall-Jackson “Avant” ($17) is pure, fresh and slightly sweet.
Note: Featured Image courtesy of Chappellet Vineyards
Italy is a cornucopia of vinous diversity, a boot overflowing with, by some estimates, over 2000 indigenous varieties. The northeastern regions of Veneto, Alto Adige and Friuli-Venezia Giulia arguably have led a re-awakening in Italian white wine production, while remaining a reliable source of distinctive, unique red wines.
Northeastern Italy, Part 1
Typically, these wines display natural freshness and expressiveness of their origins. They are notable for dramatic aromas, precise structure, and refreshing acidity. Here I highlight just a few worth seeking out from the Veneto. Most of these wines are unoaked or lightly oaked to retain natural freshness and expressiveness.
In the Veneto (just to the east of Lake Garda), Soave – named after a local village and made with the native garganega variety – has long been a popular choice for a light, refreshing white wine. After a period of mediocrity during the last few decades of the twentieth century), Soave has been reimagined by attentive quality minded wineries like Inama, who makes wines from estate vineyards on Monte Foscarino in the original “Classico” district.
The 2018 “Vin Soave” ($16) is delightfully light and tasty with touches of apple, nectarine, lemon, pear, and stone fruit nicely balanced with almond notes.
The 2017 “Vigneti di Foscarino” ($26), a special selection of old vines on the east side of the Monte Foscarino that is vinified (such as barrel fermentation) to recall traditional styles; yielding a wine with a lush texture and notes of apricot, pear and melon balanced with almond.
A similar story can be told with Valpolicella – composed of indigenous varieties (mostly corvina with varying amounts of rondinella, corvinone and molinara. A light, easy drinking red gained popularity and evolved into an indistinct sipper but now serious producers like Tenuta Sant’Antonio have resurrected the wine’s reputation. The 2016 “Nanfre” ($14) is a round, cherry flecked drink, sinewy but lush. For a contemporary interpretation of corvina, try the winery’s second label 2017 Scaia Corvina ($13), which nods to modern tastes with forward fruit.
At the tip of the Valpolicella pyramid is Amarone della Valpolicella. The 2015 Tenuta Sant’ Antonio “Selezione Antonio Castegnedi” ($45) is a fine representative of apassimento, the skillful process of drying the grapes to yield a deep, complex wine of bold dark fruits, hints of mocha, and tobacco.
In between, Valpolicella Ripasso achieves richer flavors by macerating Amarone pomace (grape skins and solids) with fresh Valpolicella. The result is a wine like the 2015 Tenuta Sant’ Antonio “Monti Garbi” ($20) with its intense black fruits, rich texture, and admirable complexity. Another perennial favorite is the 2014 Allegrini “Palazzo Della Torre” ($23). This one basically borrows from the ripasso and apassimento processes. This one blends fresh Valpolicella (in this case, corvina, rondinella and some sangiovese) vinified upon harvest and then later combined with the juice of dried grapes set aside to dry until January. The result is a wine of substantial structure with deep black cherry accented with spices, smoke and herbs.
Beyond these traditional wines, a creative producer like Inama is a good place to look for the region’s contemporary creativity. I was impressed with two wines from (surprise!) Bordeaux varieties: brought from France by locals.
Turns out the carménère grape has been cultivated in the Veneto for about 150 years unbeknownst to many but Inama discovered promising vineyards in the Colli Berici subregion near the village of Vicenza and now produces a fine example. The current vintage is the lithe, bright 2015 “Più” ($21), which includes a sizable dose of merlot. I also enjoyed the 2015 “Bradissimo” ($30), a blend of 70 percent cabernet sauvignon and 30 percent carménère, for its blackberry fruit and solid structure. It’s a fine alternative to a Super Tuscan.
Northeastern Italy, Part 2
Photo courtesy AltoAdigeWines.com
The far northeast of Italy features some of the peninsula’s most spectacular scenery and most complex history. Yet – with the exception of Venice and maybe Verona for Shakespeare fans and the Dolomites for skiers – it is often a second thought for visitors. Sadly, much the same can be said for most of its wines. Here is my humble effort to correct that.
Northeast of Verona, the Alto Adige (also known as Südtirol – South Tyrol – because of historical Austrian and Germanic influences)is a fairly small region situated south of the Alps (bordering Switzerland and Austria in view of the Dolomites). It lies just north of Lake Garda and is slightly closer to Milan than Venice. Also, note the wines tend to be varietally labeled, rather than geographically, as is the more common practice elsewhere in Italy.
Distinguished for its high altitude vineyards, often planted up the sides of glacial valleys as high as 3,000 feet, the region is noteworthy mostly for distinctive white wines (3/5 of total production) with bracing acidity and substantive character but also red wines of considerable interest. And don’t be surprised if you can detect that illusive quality of “minerality” wine aficionados seek.
As mentioned, historically, this corner of Italy has experienced strong Austrian and Germanic influences, which is why you will see the terms Cantina (Italian) and Kellerei (German) on the labels, which are the terms for “winery”.
This helps explain why many of the wines are made from German varieties:
Like müller-thurgau, an offspring of Riesling; try the 2016 Cantina Bolzano (Bozen) “Eisacktaler” ($20), the region’s largest cooperative, for a bright and lively, floral and nutty wine, with a touch of spice.
Or kerner, which also has riesling as a parent. The 2017 Kurtatsch ($17), from a 100-year-old winery cooperative, reveals crisp,floral, fruity, and spicy notes.
And sylvaner, which is originally from Austria but more common now in Germany. The 2017 Abbazia di Novacella ($20), from a winery that dates the founding of the Novacella Monastery in 1142, is herbaceous, full-bodied and invigorating.
Others are French varieties.
If you are used to American pinot grigio, recalibrate your expectations. The 2015 Pacherhof ($31), from a property owned by the family since 1142, reveals refreshing pear and savory apple but also melon, citrus, and stone fruit. Amazingly refreshing and multifaceted, it is unlike anything produced here
Pinot Bianco (pinot blanc in French/weissburgunder in German) like the 2015 St. Michael-Eppan “Schulthauser” ($21), from a more than 100 years old coop, is delightfully redolent of honey and citrus in a lively, fresh delivery.
And there are several native varieties:
While gewürztraminer is better known as an Alsatian stalwart, it takes its name from the village of Tramin located in Alto Adige. The 2016 Cantina Terlano Estate Bottled ($27), from a 125 year old coop, was one of my favorites of the tasting with its wonderful lychee, apricot and spice in a brisk but viscous frame.
Moscato giallo is a unique member of the moscato (muscat in French) family as it suggests the sweet, floral, spicy intensity you would expect but with the firmness of a wine vinified dry. Alois Lageder’s 2017 “Vogelmaier” ($25) – from a family with a history in the region since 1823 and today a leader in biodynamic farming–is delightfully aromatic with spicy apricot and lime with an intriguing savory note.
Lagrein, virtually unique to this region and thought to be a relative of Syrah, is the result of crossing Teroldego with another (unspecified) local grape. Lagrein is known for its dark fruit and earthy pepper notes with relatively high tannins and acidity. The 2015 Cantina Bolzano (Bozen) Riserva “Taber” is also robust with slightly bitter fresh red berries and a woodsy element.
Schiava (called vernatsch in German but known as trollinger in Germany) is a grape that generally is considered to make simple wines. As such, the 2017 Castelfeder Alte Reben ($17) is a surprise success. This one is fruity and delicate, lively and light, with soft berry tones – ideal for summer tipping.
Friuli-Venzia Giulia is Italy’s farthest northeast wine producing region, bordered by Austria, Slovenia, and the Adriatic. Many empires have claimed the area over the millennia, most notably the Republic of Venice for nearly 1100 years from the 7th through the 18th centuries. Still, the area’s culture arguably has more in common with Austria and Slovenia than the rest of Italy.
Similar to the Alto-Adige, there are impressive white wines from familiar grapes like chardonnay, sauvignon, gewürztraminer, sylvaner, and pinot grigio. The wines tend to be somewhat higher in alcohol but also higher in acidity, making for exquisite balance. There also is a cornucopia of mostly regional-focused, small production varieties well worth seeking out.
And the Collio subregion in the farthest east is recognized in the industry for some of the finest white wines anywhere. Yet it is still largely undiscovered by consumers. Located about an hour and a half east of Venice, the Marco Felluga winery is one of the foremost representatives of the region. Here, the watchword is balance – between tradition and innovation – as the winery was founded in the 1950’s on a property dating back to the 1300’s, while the Felluga family’s winemaking history dates back to the 1800’s.
The 2016 Pinot Grigio “Mongris” ($18) fills the mouth with peach, melon and stone fruit accented with basil and ginger. The 2015 Bianco “Molamatta” ($26) is a fascinating blend offriulano, pinot bianco, and ribolla gialla showing zippy apple, apricot, pineapple, and lemon with fine weight and structure.
Another historic property, dating back to the thirteenth century (and with part of the existing cellar dating back to the 1700s), Russiz Superiore was acquired by the Felluga family in 1967. Notable for estate vineyards surrounding the winery, the 2016 Cabernet Franc ($29) impresses with black fruits, herbs, smoky spice, and soft tannin. The 2018 Sauvignon ($29) – what we know as Sauvignon Blanc – is inspiring for its crisp lemon, peach and melon. Packed with flavor, it still drinks with finesse.
Note: Featured Image is Soave vineyard courtesy of Azienda Agricola Inama
For decades in California, pinot noir frustrated even the best winemakers. In recent years, though, California has begun to figure out the grape. Today, there are numerous appellations along a 500-mile stretch from Mendocino to Santa Barbara sourcing fine Pinot Noir wine.
And winemakers are focused more on making food-friendly wines more reflective of their origins. Consequently, the main buzzword for many producers is “minimal intervention”. In the vineyard, this generally meanschoosing the best sites usually characterized by proximity to the Pacific Ocean (or other water body) and the associated fog and cool breezes leading to long growing seasons enabling optimal ripeness, naturallyfresh acidity, and elegant wines. Wineries also increasingly are using only sustainably or organically farmed grapes.
In the cellar, this means, to varying degrees,fermentation with native yeast, few if any additions to adjust the juice, less new oak for fermentation and aging, and overall gentler handling.The best reveal pure (mostly red berry) fruit with integrated forest, earth and brown spices delivered with a silky texture.
The wines below (traveling from north to south) are the best I tasted in recent months. The real standouts were the wines from Chappellet, Inman and Goldeneye. Within each category, the wines are listed in order of preference but all are recommended.
Remote, rugged and sparsely populated, the Anderson Valley of Mendocino County is an unexpected source of fine Pinot Noir. The wines typically are concentrated, with noticeable tannin structure but deftly balance power and elegance. These consistently good wineries have delivered again.
2016 Goldeneye: Ten Degrees ($125) big, ripe, assertive, balanced; Confluence Vineyard ($86) oaky, earthy; The Narrows Vineyard ($86) juicy, full, tight; Anderson Valley ($58) (dark, lush, spicy; Gowan Creek Vineyard ($86) large, structured; Split Rail Vineyard ($86) juicy, full
2017 K-J Grand Reserve ($30) dark fruit, savory spice, lavish texture, a fine value
2017 Siduri “Edmeades” ($50) deep, silky and spicy and 2017 Anderson Valley ($40) deep and juicy
2017 FEL($38) opulent fruit, structured
The Russian River Valley in Sonoma County arguably is one of the top sources of Pinot Noir in the world. With the climate cooled by morning fog funneled through the valley from the Pacific Coast, the wines from this region are marked by fullness, complexity and balance.
Sonoma Coast, with its rolling hills and proximity to cooling Pacific Ocean breezes, is the new frontier for pinot noir. Similar to the Russian Valley, it is heavily influenced by fog, rain and wind from the ocean.
2016 Inman Sexton Road Ranch ($68) dark, concentrated, and structured.
2015 Sosie Spring Hill Vineyard ($43) intense, spicy, velvety
2017 Migration ($42) deep, broad
Straddling the southern end of Sonoma and Napa counties, Carneros has transformed from sheep and dairy ranches to prime vineyard land over the last fifty years. Cooled by fog and winds from the bordering San Pablo Bay, the resulting wines typically display admirable delicacy, balance and freshness. The one wine in my tasting, the 2017 Frank Family ($38), is lively and richly textured.
Monterey County, certain microclimates enjoy a balance between the cool Monterey Bay and the warm the Salinas Valley. Here, I include just two. The south facing slopes of the Santa Lucia Highlands inland from Carmel personify Monterey’s interplay between cool ocean breezes and inland heat. And the two wines below exemplify the deep berry fruit and enticing floral character that have rocketed this region to acclaim in the last few decades.The Arroyo Seco region to the south of the Santa Lucia Highlands also has emerged as a good source and is well represented here.
2016 J. Lohr “Highlands Bench” Santa Lucia Highlands ($35) juicy, firm, savory,
Finally, a few miles farther south in Santa Barbara County (an hour and a half north of Los Angeles) sports two regions that rival Sonoma as California’s best source of Pinot Noir – Santa Maria Valley and Santa Ynez Valley. The Santa Rita Hills, a sub-appellation within the Santa Ynez Valley, is distinctive as it runs in a west-to-east direction that efficiently funnels those cooling fog and winds from the Pacific Ocean. The 2016 Sea Smoke “Southing” ($60) is juicy, rich, and full, with lingering flavors.
NOTE: The Featured Image is courtesy Sonoma County Winegrowers Association.
California Cabernet, especially Napa Valley and Sonoma County appellations, has been a sales phenomenon since the 1970s. Even as California wine production continues to grow and lesser-known varieties are emerging, Cabernet Sauvignon remains the most popular varietal red wine.
And though fine quality can be found up and down the state, Sonoma and Napa dominate the quality wine production market. I have tasted over 60 Cabernets in the last year and recommend the following (listed in order of preference within each category) as exemplars of their styles.
Especially from the Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon has become a phenomenon in recent decades with a general style that emphasizes richness and concentration. While there are variations on the theme, the style is recognizable in pronounced fruit, lavish oak, firm body, and supple texture. Ideally, all this results in a wine enticing to drink now but that can be aged and enjoyed for years.
Chappellet has been producing highly prized wines since 1967, and its flagship Pritchard Hill has become one of Napa’s iconic cabernets. At about one-third the price, though, the 2016 Signature ($70) is wonderfully expressive with layers of fresh red and black fruits, suggestions of earth and cocoa in an approachable style with a lush texture and powdery tannins. It has the structure composition to evolve and drink well for at least 20 years.
2015 Gamble Family ($60), from highly regarded growers with a family history in the valley over 100 years, has produced a wine lively yet depth of blackberry, toasty oak, cocoa, generous, rich, ripe, black cherry, supple, fleshy, well knit
Duckhorn Vineyards has, since 1978, produced what could be described as “quintessentially Napa Valley Cabernet”. Duckhorn built a reputation for large scaled deeply flavored Merlots and Cabernets. Over the years, their portfolio has grown to include regional, appellation and single vineyard bottlings. The Napa Valley (2015, $75) encompasses the complex, balanced, immediately appealing expression of the valley. It is firm, structured, age worthy supple, polished tannins
For another typical expression of Napa Cabernet, buy a 2015 Frank Family ($53). Blended from several vineyards, it offers precocious, ripe fruit, rich texture, some earth, and soft tannins that drink well now but will allow years of development. Cassis, blackberry, black cherry, cedar, toast, pencil, firm, lush, creamy, licorice, juicy, flashy, approachable,
Charles Krug, Napa’s oldest commercial winery, has been in the Mondavi family since 1943. 2015 Vintage Selection ($125 ) deep blackberry, powdery mouthfeel, chunky, needs time, one of the valley’s legacy wineries also have stepped up to improve quality.
Over in Sonoma County, several valleys produce really good Cabernet. Probably the most distinguished is the Alexander Valley.
One of the more distinguished producers is Jordan Vineyards, which has been a mainstay of the valley (and a top destination) since the mid-1970s. Jordan’s 2015 ($55) is refined, silky, savory throughout. There is less emphasis on opulent fruit, more on lively acidity and firm structure. This is still California, so there is a sense of fresh fruit but balanced with earthy and dried herb notes.
Murphy-Goode, with family winemaking history since 1985 and farming before that, produces a nice everyday Alexander Valley Cab (2015, $28) that delivers rather straightforward black fruits with suggestions of herbs and cocoa in a solid frame.
Closer to the Pacific, the Dry Creek Valley is a little known gem tucked away in northwestern Sonoma. And when Dry Creek Vineyard was founded in 1972, it was the first new winery in Dry Creek Valley since Prohibition. Both are known mostly for heady Zinfandels but also are surprising sources of good Cabernets. The 2015 Hillside & Benchland ($29) is fruit forward but nicely balanced, with fresh forest notes; pure juicy black fruit, firm structure, and slightly astringenttannins.
The Pedroncelli family has been in Dry Creek Valley since 1927 and its 2014 Wisdom Estate Vineyard ($36) showcases the 50+ year old vines in an herbal, medium, cedar, graphite, black fruits, nicely structured,
Finally, two wineries – three wines each – featuring an exploration of Sonoma County terroirs.
Founded 55 years ago by celebrated American dancer Rodney Strong (and now owned by the Klein family), this winery has more recently emphasized estate grown wines. The 2015 Alexander Valley ($28), from estate vineyards on the hillsides, this straightforward, yet confident wine nicely balances oaky vanilla and berry fruit, light herbs, finishing lush, structured, and velvety.
The 2015 Knights Valley ($35) from the Sonoma appellation farthest east of the ocean and somewhat protected from its cooling influences. Expect lavish black fruits and toasty oak with a a fairly full-body, while crisp acidity and herbal tinges enliven the refined finish.
The 2015 Reserve ($45) is a blend of the best Alexander Valley estate vineyards. It is medium-bodied, with fresh fruit and supple tannins, this wine combines the ripeness of California fruit with the nuances of Bordeaux. Neither the fruit nor the oak hit you over the head. Instead, they join together to caress your palate.
The Jackson family has been winegrowers since 1974 and has built the largest family-owned wine company in California. Under their flagship Kendall-Jackson brand, the Jackson Estate portfolio showcases the family’s estate vineyards, The 2014 Alexander Valley ($40) intense and full with bright acidity and rich tannins.
The 2014 Grand Reserve ($28) is a fine value delivering a lot of wine for the money. Excellent purity of dark fruits, good depth and intriguing woodsy notes mark a balanced wine. The 2016 Vintner’s Reserve ($24) utilizes mostly Sonoma County grapes to produce a silky, easy drinking, with firm black fruits and herbal touches
Colorado has worldwide reputation for fine festivals, especially those centered on wine and food. One of the newest and, in my view, most special is Slow Food Nations. Forbes just published Five Reasons to Visit Colorado this- Summer stating, “In July, Denver is hosting the Slow Food Nationsconference, one of the country’s best festivals for serious foodies.” The third annual conference and festival will be in Denver July 19-21.
There will be much food for thought and some pretty amazing culinary experiences.This year’s theme is Where Tradition Meets Innovation, with an amazing array of speakers and chefs introducing your mind to new ideas and your taste buds to amazing new flavors, while experiencing the future of food.
In preparation for the event, I suggest drinking some Slow Wine. My interest in the distinctive wines that achieve the Slow Wine designation was cultivated when the Slow Wine Guidetour came to Denver last March (as I have written previously). Here are recommendations of a few wineries from the guide that I have tasted recently.
Since 1994, Beckmen Vineyards (operated by Tom and Judy, with sons Steve and Jeff) has been crafting exceptional, mostly estate grown wines in Santa Barbara County. The family converted its Purisma Mountain Vineyard in Ballard Canyon near Los Olivos to biodynamic farming methods in 2006 (Demeter Certified). Planted to sauvignon blanc, grenache blanc, viognier, and chardonnay, as syrah, grenache, mourvedre, and counoise. I recently tasted the 2017 Cuvee Le Bec ($25), which is a delightful Rhone-style wine of surprising complexity. The 2018 Purisima Mountain Vineyard Grenache Rosé ($25) is flavorful and refreshing. Their varietally labeled Syrah and Grenache wines consistently deliver purity of fruit balanced with a captivating finesse.
Over forty years ago while spending time in Europe Josh Jensen developed an intense interest in Burgundy, even working at some of the most prestigious Burgundian wineries. So, he knew when he came back to California he wanted to make wines with a Burgundian sensibility, even while they would be distinctively Californian. He als o knew to look for cool climate vineyards with limestone soil and high-quality pinot noir clones. Jensen found the ideal, though unlikely location on Mt. Harlan, in the Gavilan Mountains of San Benito County east of Monterey Bay and planted it in 1975. One of the state’s pinot noir pioneers, Calera’s wines from this terroir show high-toned fruit with a lifted structure and fine tannins. Three I tasted recently – 2016 De Villiers Vineyard ($65), 2016 Reed Vineyard ($75), and 2016 Jensen Vineyard ($95) – are emblematic with bright red berries joining earthy, spicy accents in layers of complexity. Calera also produces excellent Viognier and Chardonnay.
Emeritus Vineyards is a Pinot Noir specialist established in 1999 when Brice Cutrer Jones (originator of the wildly popular Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay) purchased the former Hallberg Ranch in the Russian River Valley. They added Pinot Hill Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast appellation in 2008. Emeritus employs sustainable and organic farming practices in its vineyards – dry farming (no irrigation), no insecticides, cover crops, sheep for weed control and fertilization – allowing the vines to naturally come into balance without unnatural interference. The wines I tasted: 2016 Hallberg Ranch ($44, elegant and enticing), 2016 Hallberg Ranch “Wesley’s Reserve” ($75, rich and flavorful), 2015 Pinot Hill ($75, refined and bracing) testify to these practices.
Family-owned Long Meadow Ranch Wine Estates began in 1989 when Ted and Laddie Hall began work to restore a neglected farm using sustainable agriculture. It is now a full circle organic system committed (with the help of their son, Chris) to responsibly farmed vineyards and including olives, bees, organic gardens, grass-fed cattle and chickens, fruits, vegetables and horses. The operation is a welcome contrast to the monoculture that dominates in Napa Valley. The winery is solar powered and they operate a restaurant, Farmstead, in St. Helena. Wines are produced from three estate vineyards: Mayacamas Estate home ranch, Rutherford Estate in Napa, and Anderson Valley Estate in Mendocino. The wines reflect a commitment to balance and food friendly elegance. I recently enjoyed the 2017 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($22), 2015 Anderson Valley Chardonnay ($40), 2016 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($40), and 2015 Napa Valley Merlot ($35).
Long Meadow Ranch recently acquired the storied Stony Hill Vineyard (located in the Spring Mountain District) from the McCrea family – finally a winery sale that didn’t go to a large corporation or a private equity firm.
After years of working at numerous prestigious wineries – Château Pétrus in Pomerol, Australia, Simi (with the iconic Zelma Long), Matanzas Creek, Chalk Hill, Dominus and Rudd Estate – David Ramey (with his wife Carla) established Ramey Wine Cellars in 1996. Along the way, he has become recognized as one of California’s finest producers of Chardonnay. He sources fruit from prime vineyards, such as Dutton and Bacigalupi in Sonoma, and Hyde and Hudson in Carneros. He also has been an exemplar of classic Burgundian techniques, while applying modern methods where appropriate. Ramey is a strong proponent of wild yeast fermentation and careful oak barrel and malolactic fermentation. His wines balance vibrant fruit flavors with rich textures, succulent acidity and structured yet silky elegance. He also makes several Bordeaux-style wines, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. I was blown away by the 2015 Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay ($65) 2016 Fort Ross-Seaview Chardonnay ($42)
NOTE: This column was published in the Colorado Springs Gazette on Wednesday, May 1, 2019
(Facebook, The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey)
By: Rich Mauro Special to The Gazette Apr 30, 2019 Updated May 1, 2019
While our craft beer and marijuana industries get most of the media attention, Colorado’s wine industry continues to grow with more than 150 wineries and steadily gain recognition, with recent features in national publications. Visit a few of these wineries, and you will taste why.
Although most of the state’s vineyards are on the Western Slope, most wineries are on the Front Range. A few are in the Colorado Springs area, including a favorite, The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey in Cañón City.
But this column is about wine travel, specifically to the Denver area. Here’s one itinerary I took as a guest of the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board.
We began in picturesque Evergreen. A visit to Creekside Cellars, off Main Street next to Bear Creek, is a real treat. Bill and Anita Donahue established the winery, which now shares space with a fine Italian restaurant, in 1996. Winemaker Michelle Cleveland produces up to 16 wines, mostly using grapes from the Donahue’s vineyard near Palisade in the Grand Valley.
The wine bar offers tastings, and the restaurant serves at lunch and happy hour. We enjoyed an amazing antipasto plate as we tasted several wines. I especially liked the Viognier, Roussanne, Riesling, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and Robusto, a Bordeaux-style blend.
As Cleveland said, “It’s about connecting the wine to the food and the community and making a memorable experience.”
Next, we made the one-hour drive to Boulder and Bookcliff Vineyards. The scene here is much different, with no mountains, creek or restaurant. But plenty of good wines make the trip worthwhile. And, of course, Boulder has many fine restaurants.
Husband and wife John Garlich and Ulla Merz have been growing grapes around Palisade since 1995. John, originally the winemaker, recently hired winemaker Richard McDonald, who previously worked in Australia, Burgundy, New Zealand, Sonoma and Napa (making “The Prisoner”). Their more than 15 wines are made with grapes exclusively from Bookcliff’s vineyards. My favorites were Muscat Blanc, Riesling, Petite Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec Reserve, Crescendo, a syrah-based blend, and Ensemble, a Bordeaux-style blend.
John said Colorado’s grape growing conditions, while very similar to the Mendoza region of Argentina, are different enough to create wines of great elegance with very expressive fruit characters.”
On the way to Denver, we made one more stop. In an industrial park in Broomfield, the Turquoise Mesa winery and tasting room was well worth the visit. The wine was reason enough, but nice touches such as an Artist Nook featuring art updated regularly and for sale added to the appeal.
Owner/winemaker Tom Bueb and his wife, Mary Joan, opened the winery in 2005. Tom makes up to 14 wines with exclusively Western Slope grapes. I favored the Sauvignon Blanc, Aromella (muscat), Rose Reserve (syrah, viognier), Petite Pearl, Malbec, Fireside (Bourbon Barrel-Aged) and Vino Turchese (petite verdot, mourvedre).
These small, family-run operations reflected the friendliness and customer service of the hosts. Each offers multiple tasting options at reasonable prices. Private tours add to the appeal. For more information, go to Coloradowine.com.
Slow Food Editore, the publishing arm of Slow Food International recently launched their Slow Wine Guide 2019: “A Year in the Life of Slow Wine”with a US tour that included a tasting event at the Source Hotel in Denver’s RiNo District.
What is “Slow Wine”, you might ask? Structurally, it is a branch of the Slow Food International organization. More importantly, “it follows the same basic core principles of Slow Food: encouraging people to be aware about the wines they drink, where they come from, how they taste and how our choices affect the rest of the world”, according to one of the guide’s editors, Giancarlo Gariglio.
Originally intended to shine a spotlight on Italian wines, this tenth edition includes entries for California and Oregon. It covers 541 wineries – 370 Italian (and Slovenian), 121 Californian and 50 Oregon – and 24,000 wines tasted.
With what the editors-in-chief, Mr. Gariglio and Fabio Giavedoni, call “points-free wine writing”, the guide offers a distinctive perspective on the evaluation of wineries and their produce. They replace the score-based formula that has dominated much wine writing with an innovative set of criteria based on Slow Food values. These fundamental Slow Food principles of course consider the quality of the wines tasted but also take into consideration what Gariglio described as “wholesomeness, and expressiveness”.
Of course, aromas and flavors are important, he added. But quality also includes “the production process; heightened attention to environmental sustainability; the work of the grape grower; the wines’ expressiveness with respect to the appellation; varietal expression of indigenous grapes used in vinification; and winemaking practices that are not overly invasive and that don’t mask or homogenize the wines’ flavors.”
Wineries whose values (high quality wines, originality, respect for the land and environment) align with the Slow Food Movement are awarded the Snail Prize (the international symbol of Slow Food). Only wineries that are herbicide free can receive the Snail. Wineries whose wines represent benchmarks in quality throughout their range receive the Bottle Prize. Wineries whose wines represent excellent value are awarded the Coin Prize.
The Slow Wine Prize is given to wines that represent an expression of place, originality and history. The top wines are recognized with the Great Wine prize and excellent values (under $30) are recognized with the Everyday Wine Prize. Gariglio added, “Our editors also look for wines with good price-quality ratio and wines that aren’t part of elitist trends. We want the wines we select to be available to as many wine lovers as possible.”
The book is organized first by Italian region, then California and Oregon. Each entry describes the people, vineyards and wines that distinguish the particular winery, along with notable viticultural practices. Selections are based on the wines’ relationship to the places where they are made and the people who produce them. In Gariglio’s words, they “wanted to tell the wineries’ stories” and actually visited every winery included in the guide.
This kind of hands on dedication is what separates the Slow Wine Guide from other guides. If you can’t find it at your local bookstore or wine shop, it is available on Amazon.
