The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

Over the last 15 years, malbec, Argentina’s “signature grape” has established a position among the U.S.’s most popular wines. And it has helped Argentina rise to the position as the planet’s fifth largest wine producer. 

This variety of European origin that has adapted so well to Argentina’s terroir delivers high quality and flavor interest at reasonable prices. Most of the wines can be had at $20 or less. 

It helps that the wines are accessible and eminently drinkable. Typically, you get up-front, round fruit and lush textures for little money. Argentina’s malbec producers have settled into a comfort zone of affordable, easy-drinking reds that increasingly are crowd pleasers. These wines hit the quality/value sweet spot. 

And Mendoza is its signature wine region. This high altitude landscape at the foot of the Andes Mountains births many malbecs that are fine choices for everyday drinking, some appropriate for a fine meal, and a few that would reward time to evolve. 

Alamos, a winery with a 100-year history in Mendoza, specializes in fine values and is a brand to which many consumers turn. Its 2017 Malbec ($14) is one of Argentina’s most widely available and best everyday values. Full of raspberry fruit, it is nicely toasty and velvety. For a few dollars more the 2016 Seleccion Malbec ($25), a special selection, shows more concentration and deeper fruit. 

Making wine for almost 130 years, Pascual Toso, based in the Maipú district of Mendoza, also is a notable value winery. The 2016 Reserva Malbec ($14) is pleasantly fresh with forward blackberry fruit and a touch of oak. 

Domaine Bousquet, a leading pioneer in the high-altitude Tupungato sub-region of Mendoza’s Uco Valley, stands out for its commitment to organic fruit – at every price point.Wines are made with minimal reliance on oak, enabling the fruit shine through. The 2017 Malbec and 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon ($13) are notable for their exuberant freshness and vibrant aromatics, making for notably food-friendly wines.

Argentina also can excel with higher priced wines. Finca Decero’s 2015 The Owl & The Dust Devil ($33) is the second vintage of this distinct red blend from one of Argentina’s top producers. The name is inspired by the winery’s local Lechuza Owls who stand watch over the estate vineyards and the periodic “dust devils” (small, strong whirlwinds). A blend of cabernet sauvignon, malbec, petit verdot and tannat, it is rich yet well balanced, nicely focused, yet sleek. Herbal and peppery accents compliment the present berry aromas and flavors.

Finally, the 2015 Enzo Bianchi ($55), a blend of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, and malbec, offers a complex, balanced expression with tobacco, spices, and floral notes, rich berry fruit. It’s fairly full-bodied with a round plush texture and a solid structure signaling further development for 10-15 years. 

Chile long has had a reputation as a reliable, good value producer, mostly for tasty, affordable Cabernet Sauvignons and Sauvignon Blancs, and more recently also for Carmenere, Chardonnay, Bordeaux-style blends and Pinot Noir. While this remains as true as ever, Chile is making a concerted effort to reposition itself as a premium wine producing country. With diverse geography and climate conditions, there is ample opportunity to achieve both goals. 

Consider Cabernet Sauvignon, Chile’s most widely planted grape and Concha y Toro, Chile’s largest wine company. Its largest production and best-known wine, Casillero del Diablo (2016, $11), is a perennial good value. 

At the other end of the spectrum, Concha y Toro’s Don Melchor “Puente Alto Vineyard” (2015, $125) has reached iconic status as one of Chile’s greatest red wines, and one of the best Cabernet’s anywhere. (I reviewed this wine last January.)

Concha y Toro also excels at mid-priced wines. Their 2016 Marques de Casa Concha ($25) is sourced from two historic vineyards, Puente Alto and Pirque, both located in the Maipo region. It is nicely structured with rich fruit.

Another one of Chile’s largest wine companies, Viña San Pedro, founded in 1865, was a pioneer of Chilean wine. Today, it is also a leader in sustainable winegrowing and social responsibility. They even recently introduced a biogas plant that turns viticultural waste into energy. Their nicely structured 2014 “1865 Single Vineyard” ($17) provides bright red fruits with subtle mocha and smooth tannins. 

I also enjoyed the 2016 Odfjell “Armador” ($15). Over 25 years ago Dan Odfjell, a Norwegian shipping owner established vineyards in Chile’s Maipo Valley. Today, all Odfjell vineyards throughout Chile are certified organic and biodynamic. This one is lively, yet soft and round. 

As good as Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon can be, there are a lot of Cabs in this world. What Chile most distinctively excels at is Carménère. Similar to malbec in Argentina, carménère came to Chile from France in the latter 1800s. An offspring of cabernet franc, it now is almost exclusively grown in Chile and has become the nation’s niche grape. 

With its distinctive flavor profile, food friendliness and generally reasonable prices Carménère wines from Chile deserves more consumer attention. It certainly has mine. At its best, Carménère supplies intense, juicy fruit, some spice (coffee, cocoa), smooth texture, and solid but silky tannins.

I wasn’t surprised to find several from Concha y Toro (all 2016 vintage). The Casillero del Diablo ($11) is a good everyday red. The Serie Riberas Gran Reserva ($17) was excellent, full flavored, and refined. The Marques de Casa Concha ($25) was fresh, spicy, toasty, and sleek. The Terrunyo Entre Cordilleras Peumo Vineyard Block 27 ($40) offered lively, bright fruit with herbal and chocolate notes.

And Viña San Pedro’s 2015 “1865 Single Vineyard” ($17) showed dense fruit, a solid structure, yet a refined palate. 

Finally, Viña Ventisquero, a twenty-year-old winery focused on sustainable production, now produces a variety of wines from Ventisquero’s “Grey” series of wines present an expression of a single block of vines. The 2014 Glacier Trinidad Vineyard single block ($20) shows intense fruit, some tobacco, and fresh tannins.

As I mention at the top, Chilean wine is more than Cabernet Sauvignon and Carménère. Look for more recommendations here in the coming months. 

Some of my favorite wines anywhere have their origin in the south of France, especially the Rhône Valley. Vines have flourished in the valley, which runs roughly from Vienne in the north to Avignon in the south, since ancient times. Divided geographically and viticulturally into two regions – north and south. Most Rhône wines in both are red, though there are a few notable whites. 

The north is syrah country. With world renowned wines from Hermitage and Côte Rôtie, it’s no wonder syrah is the most famous grape of the Rhône. But the south is mostly about grenache and this is a grape you need to get to know. The big difference in the south is that the wines are much more focused on blends.

Neighboring Provence, the south has attracted popes, artists and literary figures. Seven popes resided in Avignon during the 1300s. The wines benefit from proximity to the Mediterranean and typically reflect the freshness emblematic of grenache. 

While the southern Rhône has several appellations of interest, the most famous is Châteauneuf du Pape (“New Castle of the Pope”). Although thirteen grapes are specifically permitted, these are always grenache-dominated blends (with syrah and mourvèdre the most common additions). A fine example is the impressive 2016 Château de Nalys ($105), one of the appellation’s oldest properties, with lively aromatics, intense dark fruits, and complex leather, licorice, and spice notes. 

Arguably the best after Châteauneuf is Gigondas about 10 miles northeast. It’s also less expensive. Its vineyards often produce heady, spicy, maybe somewhat rustic wines of strong but well-balanced character. These wines are even more dominated by grenache than is Châteauneuf. 

One such wine is the 2015 Domaine Saint-Damien ($35). This small, family-owned estate has produced a full-bodied wine of delightful character. Another nice option is the 2015 Famille Perrin “La Gille” ($39). Aromatic and lush but with determination and force, this comes from the Perrin family of the renowned Château Beaucastel. 

There are also wonderful everyday values to be found in this region. The most notable are labeled Côtes du Rhône (orCôtes-du-Rhône-Villages), the most common appellation. Côte du Rhône is often considered a catchall designation for wines from vineyards within the Rhône Valley but not included in the more delimited appellations. The appellation’s vineyards extend from Vienne to Avignon. Solid and flavorful, they represent some of the best red wine values in the world. 

Again, the vast majority of the wines are red. While 21 grape varieties are officially included in the appellation, in the red wines, grenache is predominate, usually buttressed with significant additions of syrah and mourvèdre. The best are noted for generous fruit, solid and sometimes rustic body, and spicy qualities.

E. Guigal produces one of the consistently best Côtes du Rhône. The 2015 ($19) with 50% syrah, 45% grenache and 5% mourvedre is a much more intense wine than what one would expect with tons of ripe dark fruit a lush texture, and savory and earthy notes. Another reliable producer is Les Dauphins whose 2016 Reserve ($13), with 70% grenache, 25% syrah and 5% mourvedre, offers up front fruit, with herbal and forest notes and an easygoing texture.

Southern Rhône white wines also are blends, generally are combinations of roussanne, marsanne, grenache blanc and small amounts of other grapes, also are worth attention. From Châteauneuf du Pape, the 2017 Château de Nalys ($105) isa melange of roussanne, grenache blanc, clairette, bourboulenc and picpoul, is impressive in its own right. Succulent and exotic with apple and peach fruit, notes of brioche, cream and a light, floral spice. 

Of course, Côtes du Rhône Blanc is a more affordable everyday alternative. Again, E. Guigal (2016, $19) and Les Dauphins Blanc (2016, $13) – marrying enticing aromas and freshness – are good places to start. 

Just north of the village of Arles (of course, famous for its association with the artist Vincent Van Gogh) across the Rhone River, the Costières de Nîmes appellation is the southernmost of the Rhone Valley winegrowing areas. It is also located between well-known villages of Marseille and Avignon. While predominantly red wines are produced, the whites, like the 2015 Chateau Mas Neuf “Paradox Blanc” ($17), are fruity and substantial. This one is also smooth with 65 percent grenache blanc and 35 percent roussane. 

Finally, the Luberon, nestled east of Avignon, is one of the most southerly areas of the Rhone Valley. Unusual for the Rhône, rosé is predominant here. Still, light fresh, stylish whites also are available. The region also produces some delightfully elegant white wines, to which the Vermentino grape contributes its special citrus flavours. Typical of the area, the 2014 Pierre Henri Morel Luberon Blanc ($17) is mostly three-fifths grenache blanc, in this case complimented with rolle, viognier, and clairette grapes. It is typically light and fresh, with delightful peach and honey.

Within sight of the Alps, Piemonte (the Italian spelling, it’s Piedmont in English) in northwestern Italy arguably is Italy’s most famous wine producing region (unless you want to argue for Tuscany). Of course, that’s like saying George Washington is more famous than Abraham Lincoln.

And that fame is mostly centered on two wines from theLanghe subregion: Barolo and Barbaresco. These wines are always made 100 percent of the indigenous nebbiolo grape. Curiously, nebbiolo appears capable of reaching such great heights only in Piemonte, as there are very few examples of similar quality produced anywhere else. There’s just something about this grape grown in this place as expressed in the resulting wines that testify to the synergy of grape and terroir.

Named after towns in the area, among serious wine lovers, Barolo and Barbaresco are considered among the world’s great red wines. Presenting different expressions of nebbiolo, Barolo is most often characterized as more muscular and tannic, larger scaled, and somewhat austere but with dramatically intense fruit. In Barbaresco, the soil is more fertile, thus the wines tend to be slightly less tannic but better balanced. Still both exhibit substantial tannins and typically display enticing cherry fruit and notes of roses and what has been described as tar. 

Of course, there are many fine producers but good values often seem hard to find, as most of the wines approach $100 a bottle, and some exceed that price handily. But I found two excellent values that also should be fairly widely available in the U.S. 

First, the 2014 Vietti Barolo “Castiglione” ($52). Vietti owners, the Currado family has made wine for over two centuries. They were among the first wineries to produce a single vineyard Barolo in the early 1960s. Today, the Fifth generation offers several single vineyard Barolos and a Riserva but also this one made in what can be described as a classic style. Very aromatic, it is somewhat angular, with firm, yet elegant tannins that unfold across the palate. And it happens to be vegan, meaning no animal by-products were use in its production.

The 2014 Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco “Martinenga” ($60) also is a fine choice. The di Grésy family has roots in Piemonte dating to the 1600s. This vineyard has been dedicated to grape growing since ancient Roman times and owned by the family since 1797. Its bright red fruit is accented with rich earth and suggestions of mint, presented with supple tannins, and finishes with piercing vibrancy.

If you want a sense of what all the fuss is about at a more affordable price, wines labeled “Nebbiolo Langhe”, usually featuring grapes from younger vines and sourced from multiple vineyards. But wines such as the 2015 Vietti “Perbacco” ($26) give a reasonable preview. This one, essentially a second wine to their Barolo Castiglione is typically friendly and flavorful with notes of licorice and spice and the structure of a Barolo. 

Importantly, Piemonte
 is
 much more than nebbiolo. Beyond these icon wines is a quite diverse panoply of native grapes that produce fascinating, affordable wines. 

Probably the next most significant is barbera, the
 most
 widely planted grape 
in the region. Its many benefits include a generally juicy, easy drinking character and reasonable cost, resulting in an ideal everyday wine. It typically produces rich, concentrated dark berry flavors, often with hints of 
licorice, and occasionally earthy notes with good acidity but softer tannins. 
Barbera

 from Asti
 and
 Alba (towns in the Langhe) are what you want to look for.

I recently tasted three fine Barbera d’Asti: 

• 2016 Vietti “Tre Vigne” ($26) fresh and sleek, rich and concentrated, this glides across the palate effortlessly 

• 2017 Renato Ratti Battaglione ($20) notable for deep, lively fruit and lavish mouthfeel 

• 2017 Marchesi di Gresy “Monte Aribaldo” ($18) floral notes and has fine structure 

Dolcetto is Piemonte’s other important variety. The grape is appealing for its exuberant fruitiness, tangy bitterness, and affordability. The 2016 Marchesi di Gresy Dolcetto d’Alba “Monte Aribaldo” ($18) is typically supple, fresh. 

There are also several commendable whites wines, which I will review in a future column. 

Over the last few years, Bourbon barrel-aged wines have become one of the fastest growing wine categories. That’s right, the wine is aged in barrels once used to age whiskey. I guess if brewers can do it (check out Avery Brewing’s “Sandy Claws” and Oskar Blues Brewery’s Ten FIDY Imperial Stout to name just two) and if whiskey makers can use wine barrels…

While I am somewhat of a traditionalist when it comes to winemaking, and some critics think these wines are a stunt for the U.S. millennial market, there is no doubting they have found a market. And I did find the wines below appealing.

Whether crafted with the whiskey drinker in mind or the adventurous drinker looking for a novel experience, the winemakers say that the Bourbon characteristics and charred barrels add layers to the flavor profile, enhancing complexity. Certainly, I would characterize the wines overall as bold, ripe tasting, and smoky, reflecting the char of the whiskey barrels.

Bob Blue, a pioneer in organic winemaking as founding winemaker for Bonterra Vineyards, has fashioned my favorite of the group. He started experimenting with Bourbon barrels in the 1980s and may have created the original California Bourbon barrel-aged wine. Today, Blue makes three Bourbon barrel-aged wines under the “1000 Stories” label – a Carignan (which I have favorably reviewed, the 2016 “Batch Blue” $19), a Red Blend and 2016 Zinfandel “Batch 41” ($19). With 15.7 percent alcohol, this hearty Zin delivers dark fruit, licorice, spice and black pepper with soft tannins.

The 2016 Cooper & Thief “Cellarmaster Select” Red Wine Blend ($30) – syrah, merlot, zinfandel, petite sirah, and malbec, the rest other red blenders – offers up a deep jammy wine that, at 17 percent alcohol, is assertive, big and bold but still drinks with a velvety texture, though with noticeable heat. By the way, if you like this, Cooper & Thief also makes a Tequila Barrel Aged Sauvignon Blanc (2016, $30) and a Rye Aged   Cabernet (2015, $49).

The large, Family-owned O’Neill Vintners & Distillers with vineyards throughout central California, offers the 2016 Exitus Red Wine ($26) – zinfandel, petit verdot, cabernet sauvignon, petite sirah and merlot – at 15.9 percent, has very fresh fruit that borders on sweetness concentrated blackberry and blueberry, with noticeable smoky aromas.

Stave & Steel, one of the many brands of The Wine Group (one of the world’s largest wine companies) offers a 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon ($20). With 13.5 percent alcohol, the Paso Robles fruit achieves better balance but still adds bold, fresh black raspberry, a lively structure, and hints of spice.

Finally, the trend has spread beyond California. I recently tasted two wines from the Australian winery Jacob’s Creek Double Barrel line of wines. These wines (2015, $15) are first aged in wine barrels and then finished in Irish whiskey barrels – hence the “double barrel”. The Shiraz is full and substantial with red fruits and chocolate bordering on sweet, plus toasty and licorice notes. The Cabernet Sauvignon presents currant, tobacco, menthol and caramel notes finishing with noticeable tannins.

Finally, the trend has spread beyond California. I recently tasted two wines from the Australian winery Jacob’s Creek Double Barrel line of wines. Both of these wines (each $15) are first aged in wine barrels and then finished in Irish whiskey barrels – hence the “double barrel” moniker. The Shiraz (14.8 percent alcohol) is full but fresh, with juicy red fruits and licorice notes. The Cabernet Sauvignon (14.3 percent alcohol) seems more intense with plum and currant, tobacco, and more licorice finishing with noticeable tannins.

One final note: the packaging of these bottles also is notable. It seems they are designed to appeal to those same spirit-drinking, adventurous consumers, as they often mimic the look of Bourbon bottles.

It is time to start looking for a special wine to give the wine lover in your life. With the extra investment involved, it is important to be extra careful in our purchases, to find that extra special gift. Or, if you are reading this after the holidays, you may be looking for ideas on how to spend a wine gift card. Well, I’m here to help, suggesting some exciting California Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (and a special portfolio of Australian wines) to help you decide.

Cabernet Sauvignon

Chappellet Vineyard has been producing highly prized wines since 1967 and its flagship Pritchard Hill (2014, $235) has become one of Napa’s iconic Cabernets. The most expensive wine here, there is no questioning it is amazing. From and estate vineyard situated at 1,800 feet, it is made of 81 percent cabernet sauvignon, with the rest petit verdot and malbec. Everything about this mountain grown wine is large scaled, with richness and complexity throughout. It opens with loads of blackberry and plum with touches of chocolate, cinnamon, and clove. It also exhibits intriguing elements of soil, earth and stone. It has the structure composition to evolve and drink well for at least 20 years.

If this one is beyond your budget, a fine alternative is the 2015 Chappellet “Signature” ($65). This is still is an impressive wine and any Cab lover would be happy to have it. With 79 percent cabernet sauvignon, 12 percent petit verdot, and 9 percent malbec, it is laden with red berries plum and currants, earth, cedar and herb notes provide accents. It all comes together nicely in a densely packed palate characterized by assertive tannins.

Located on an esteemed vineyard in the highly sought after Adelaida District in Paso Robles, the Daou family is producing some of the California’s most impressive wines. Their 2014 DAOU Reserve ($56) features high elevation fruit (75 percent cabernet sauvignon, 14 percent petit verdot, 5 percent cabernet franc, and 6 percent merlot). And at this price, its robust but balanced character, achieved with a wonderful grace, elevates its status to that of the more expensive wines here.

Ehlers Estate is a winery and organic vineyard in Napa’s St. Helena sub-appellation that dates to 1886. All of the proceeds from the sale of its wines are returned to the LeDucq Foundation to support cardiovascular research. It’s flagship wine – the 1886 Cabernet Sauvignon (2015, $125) – is also worthy for its wonderfully concentrated, complex, fresh, firm character delivered with grace and finesse. With 92 percent cabernet sauvignon, supplemented with cabernet franc, merlot and petit verdot, it is a keeper that should drink well for at least 15 years.

Anyone who follows the Napa Cult Cab world will know the iconic status of the Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. That wine runs around $200. The estate’s second wine – Lyndenhurst Napa Valley (2015, $85) – with about half of its fruit from the Spottswoode estate and the rest from trusted growers, is impressive in its own right.

It is 80 percent cabernet sauvignon with 12 percent merlot, and the rest cabernet franc and petit verdot. It’s bold fruit, herbal complexities and lush texture will impress any Cabernet fan.

Located in Stags Leap District, a celebrated Napa sub-appellation adjacent to the Silverado Trail, Chimney Rock is one of the area’s premier wineries. Its 2015 Estate Cab ($100) is an exemplary expression of the power and intensity balanced with finesse typical of the appellation. With 81 percent cabernet sauvignon, 13 percent merlot, 5 percent cabernet franc and 1 percent petit verdot, it opens somewhat tough but with time becomes quite expressive.

Further up from Stags Leap, the Atlas Peak sub-appellation is notable for even higher elevations and steep slopes. One of its newest estates, Acumen has set high aspirations to achieve Grand Cru status. On the evidence of its confidently structured, richly integrated 2014 PEAK “Attelas Vineyard” ($150), one of a trio of small-production wines from its finest vineyard blocks, it is well on its way. From an estate-grown site and comprised of 96 percent cabernet sauvignon and 4 percent malbec, it should develop and drink well for another 15 years.

Merlot

And now two wines that will make any red wine drinker fall in love with Merlot again, thanks to Jackson Family Wines and winemaker Christopher Carpenter. Carpenter established a premier reputation as the longtime winemaker at the highly regarded Jackson Family owned wineries Cardinale and Lokoya.

“If farmed right in the proper locations and treated similar to cabernet sauvignon, merlot can be great, just as it is in other countries, he told me.” In this case Carpenter is talking about the high elevation vineyards that source the 2015 Mt. Brave ($80) and 2015 La Jota ($85). These are serious, complex, full-bodied wines.

The Mt. Brave, from Mt. Brave Vineyard in the northern portion of the Mt. Veeder AVA, is a tribute to the previous inhabitants of the area. At 100 percent Merlot, it is full, structured and classy, with impressive, deep berry and plum fruit, cocoa, spice and mint.

The LaJota is made from fruit from two historic, neighboring Howell Mountain vineyards: W.S. Keyes, the first vineyard planted (1888) on Howell Mountain, and La Jota, planted 10 years later by Keyes’s neighbor, Frederick Hess. Including 10 percent petit verdot, it is densely packed with lovely cherry, blueberry and earth, mocha, spice and freshtannins.

Pinot Noir

The Dutton family has grown grapes in the Russian River Valley since 1964. Today, sons Joe and Steve also co-own their own wineries. Joe and Tracy Dutton established Dutton Estate in 1994. Steve and Theresa Dutton founded Dutton-Goldfield winery in 1998 with winemaker Dan Goldfield. I find their wines are distinguished by lively fruit and luscious textures. From an extreme cool climate vineyard near the Pacific Ocean, the 2015Dutton-Goldfield Redwood Ridge($62) presentslively, confident cherry with complimented with dried herbs, earth and a touch of anise. A firm, yet luscious texture is balanced with fresh tannins.

This Sonoma-Loeb winery dates to 1973 when former U.S. Ambassador to Denmark John Loeb began growing chardonnay and pinot noir grapes in Sonoma County. He eventually produced exceptional wines from his vineyards under the Sonoma-Loeb name. The winery is owned now by the Chappellet family of the renowned Napa winery and continues to release well-regarded expressions of the highly regarded Sangiacomo Vineyard in Sonoma’s Carneros region and the previously mentioned Dutton Ranch.

From a special section of the famed Sangiacomo Vineyard, the 2016 Sonoma-Loeb Federick Ranch ($60) is redolent of dark berries, earth, cinnamon and anise; it’s firm, dense and persistent.

Chardonnay

From one of California’s most respected winemakers and most revered vineyards, the 2015 Ramey Rochioli Vineyard ($65) is wonderfully complex and satisfying. It’s a wine that even people who don’t like Chardonnay will enjoy. Built on a core of juicy citrus and stone fruit accented with light spice and floral notes, its tightly wound frame is balanced with a broad palate.

Part of the Duckhorn Vineyards portfolio since 2001 as a Pinot Noir specialist, adding Chardonnay in 2008, Migration has built a reputation for sourcing from cool-climate vineyards throughout California that balance vitality, refinement and complexity. From a vineyard in the Green Valley subappellation of Sonoma Coast that sources several of Sonoma’s best wineries, the 2016 Migration Charles Heintz Vineyard ($55) offers enticing lemon, apple and stone fruit, balanced with honeyed notes delivered on an elegant, refined texture.

Biodynamic Wines

Organic and sustainably produced wines have been relatively common for serious wine producers for a while now. Even the more stringent biodynamic methods have gained advocates lately. Bonterra Organic Vineyards has been at the forefront of both movements. They produce several value priced organic wines worth your attention but any wine lover would appreciate the three single-vineyard wines from their certified biodynamic ranches in Mendocino County.

2014 The McNab ($50) McNab Ranch was once a sheep ranch and became one of the original biodynamic vineyards planted in the U.S.An example of biodiversity, sheep still are used for weed control.This blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and old vine petite sirah is intense with black fruits well integrated with oak and spices. Strong, yet polished tannins deliver a long finish.

2014 The Butler ($50) Butler Ranch is a mountain ranch near Ukiah that was once a cherry farm. Owing to its high elevation (overlooking the McNab Ranch), this is a Rhone-style blend (80 percent syrah,with mourvedre, grenache, zinfandel) of intensity and complexity with juicy black fruits, tobacco, anise, and mocha. It is firm with brawny, yet plush, tannins.

2016 The Roost Chardonnay ($40) Blue Heron Ranch is nestled between the Russian River and a blue heron nesting site and preserve in the coolest part of the Mendocino County valley floor. The vineyard presents an example of the biodynamic principle of integrating farming and wildlife. The wine is wonderfully complex bursting with lemon, pear,and apple; complimented with cream, butterscotch and fig; all carried on a creamy texture with brisk acidity.

Australia

Let me close with a recommendation for Hickinbotham Clarendon Vineyard located in the McLaren Vale district of South Australia about 22 miles south of Adelaide. It is one of Australia’s most highly regarded vineyards. Initially planted in 1971 on the ridgetops above the village of Clarendon and across the river from the prized 160 year-old Clarendon Vineyard, it has even supplied grapes for Penfolds’ iconic Grange wine. The property is now owned by California’s Jackson Family Wines and the winemaker is Chris Carpenter (see above). These are all wines that will improve over the next 10 years.

2015 “Trueman” Cabernet Sauvignon ($75) assertive currant and blackberry followed by toasty, savory elements, hints of wood spice and anise add enticing complexity to this finely tannic wine

2015 “The Revivalist” Merlot ($75) welcoming plum and blueberry, complemented with earthy, cedar, tobacco and spice notes; drinks satiny and finishes with nice grip

2015 “Brooks Road” Shiraz ($75) lovely juicy red fruits, notes of herbs, tea, anise, and black pepper; drinks elegantly but with power

2015 “The Peake” Cabernet Shiraz ($150) name-checking John Edward Peake, an outsized figure in 19^thcentury Australia, this is a blend of 56 percent cabernet sauvignon and 44 percent shiraz; impressive concentration of red and dark berries; picks up hints of mocha, herbs and pepper; lively, succulent and complex

Although sparkling wine is appropriate for any occasion, the holidays are its prime time. Lucky for us effervescent wine is so popular there are versions made in virtually every wine region. This column focuses on bubbles from France and Italy, ideal for any celebration, party, or even your nightly meal.

Champagne still is the world’s most prestigious bubbly. And Moët & Chandon, one of Champagne’s most historic (founded in 1743) and influential houses is an ideal place to start a stylistic exploration. Overall, these wines expertly balance richness and delicacy, just what I like in Champagne. These blends are dominated by pinot noir with significant but lesser amounts of pinot meunier and chardonnay.

Brut Impérial ($40) is Moët’s iconic cuvée. And with good reason. Currently available in a limited-edition embossed bottle, it would make a nice holiday gift. It is elegant and seamlessly juicy with apple and lemon with balance and complexity from toasty elements. The Brut Rosé Imperial ($40) is seductively lively, with intense, fresh red berries, delicate floral notes, and a luscious, expressive structure.

Moët’sGrand Vintage wines are special offerings. They will evolve for at least ten years. The 2009 Grand VintageExtra Brut($65) is delightfully rich, complex and concentrated with juicy, pitted and red fruits balanced with vanilla cream, almonds, toast and light spice. The 2009 Grand Vintage Rosé Extra Brut ($70) leads with ripe berries, then floral and lightly peppery notes. A sense of elegance compliments the firm texture. Toasty richness and complexity are its hallmarks. Given their age, both drink with refinement but will keep for severl years.

While Champagne is the benchmark for bottle fermented sparkling wine, there are good sparklers elsewhere in France, usually labeled Crémant, is an affordable alternative. I particularly like Crémant d’Alsace, made using the Champagne method. Lucien Albrecht, a winery that dates to 1698 is one of the best. has produced fine, citrusy Crémant Brut ($22) using chardonnay, pinot blanc, and pinot auxerrois or the 100 percent pinot noir Rosé Brut for its crisp, berry fruit, finesse and nice measure of complexity.

Prosecco, the fresh frizzantefrom the Veneto hills of northeastern Italy, has really gained in popularity in recent years. Made from the native glera grape, it is produced using the Charmat Method (bubbles from second fermentation in pressurized tanks, instead of in the bottle as with Champagne). Its fresh, delicate pear, citrus and peach fruit and frothy palate make for an easy drinking and modestly priced wine versatile for many occasions.

One of my all-time favorite producers (along with Bisol) is Adami, a family owned winery in the prized Valdobbiadene area. Established in 1920, they produce benchmark Prosecco bursting with varietal purity and white flowers. The “Garbel” Brut ($15) is quite full flavored for its price; the “Bosco di Gica” Brut ($18) is most lively and refreshing; and the 2017 “Vigneto Giardino” Brut ($22) is impressively focused and intense.

Lambrusco from Emilia-Romagna is enjoying a reintroduction to American consumers as artisan bubbly – exuberantly fruity berries and mostly dry, not the sickly sweet, mass-produced froth of the past. One of the best is Cleto Chiarli. The wines below are made from regional variations of the lambrusco grape.I suspect these still may be an acquired taste for some but I think they are delicious, versatile, and inexpensive.

The effusive, luscious, firm, savory, peppery Vigneto Cialdini ($15) is a good introduction to the style. The 2016 floral, fresh, crisp, lightly Premium Vecchia Modena ($15) shows a bit more depth. The succulent, spicy lightly Centenario Grasparossa di Castelvetro Amabile ($11) is a delightfully semi sweet exception to the rule.

Although Piemonte in Italy’s northwest is most famous for its red wines – Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, etc. – the region also excels with spumante. Enrico Serafino established the winery in the Roero district 140 years ago and is one of the area’s most respected producers. In addition the winery is a leader in the production of what Italians call “Metodo Classico” or the Classic (read Champagne) Method.

Its 2013 Brut ($25), a chardonnay/pinot noir blend with enticing white flowers, stone fruit, orange oil, and a crisp but luscious texture, is a fine value. The 100 percent pinot noir 2014 Brut Rosé ($27) offers a sophisticated, lightly toasty experience. The 2010 Brut Zero ($52) is a very special wine, even at this price. A pinot noir/chardonnay blend, “Zero” means it is extremely dry. It also is “late disgorged”, meaning each bottle aged on its lees – a process that adds complexity – an extended period before being corked. Expect Creamy apple and pear with vibrant acidity and finesse.

(NOTE: All wines here are nonvintage unless otherwise noted.)

One of the hallmarks of Thanksgiving and other holiday dinners and other gatherings is the coming together of family and friends. As you consider what wines to serve with your holiday meals, why not continue the theme by pairing Chardonnay for the white and Pinot Noir for the red? Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the most common grape varieties in Burgundy and two of the most popular grapes worldwide. The two have long been thought to be related, what with growing in the same region for centuries and their vines having almost identical leaves.

But, though some have labeled the white grape “pinot chardonnay”, there never was conclusive evidence of familial connection. And chardonnay is not usually included in descriptions of the “pinot family of grapes” – pinot noir, pinot blanc, pinot gris, pinot meunier. These are the same variety but different clones expressing mutations that have occurred over centuries. Now, DNA fingerprinting suggests that chardonnay is the result of a cross between pinot noir and gouais blanc (a Croatian grape the Romans are thought to have brought to France). Turns out pinot noir is actually one of chardonnay’s parents.

Pinot Noir typically produces lighter-bodied red wines with low to moderate tannins, notable for aromas and flavors of cherries and brown spices. Chardonnay produces white wines known for their aromas of white and yellow fruit, flowers and minerals. Consider sharing the following wine families with your family this Thanksgiving.

Cambria. Based in the Santa Maria Valley in Santa Barbara County, Cambria is a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist owned by Jackson Family Estates (creators of Kendall-Jackson wines). These are sustainably farmed, estate grown wines named after the founding family’s daughters: 2015 Chardonnay Katherine’s Vineyard ($22) ripe, stone fruit, creamy, toasty and 2015 Pinot Noir Julia’s Vineyard ($25) full flavored red dark and fruits, spice.

Cuvaison. Established in the Napa Valley in 1969, Cuvaison was an early pioneer of the Carneros region. Benefitting from the cooling effects of San Pablo Bay and sustainable farming practices, these estate bottled wines are distinguished by vibrant, balanced character: 2016 Pinot Noir ($42) light-bodied wine of red fruits and black tea with velvety tannins and 2016 Chardonnay ($26) redolent of stone fruits, with nice vanilla, crips acidity, and a plush texture.

Davis Bynum. A pioneer of chardonnay and pinot noir in the Russian River Valley, which is now one of California’s most acclaimed regions for those varieties, Davis Bynum also has claim the first single vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir from a vineyard planted in 1973. Today, it is owned by the family that owns Rodney Strong Vineyards. The 2016 Pinot Noir Jane’s Vineyard ($35) reveals generous bright red berries in a fruity style with forest and brown spice notes, somewhat tough tannins leading to a firm finish; the 2015 Chardonnay River West Vineyard ($25) offers nice apple, pineapple, and creamy notes in a fresh, lush texture.

Dutton Ranch. This one’s actually a vineyard source, not a winery. Six generations of Duttons have farmed in Sonoma County. But this story begins when Warren and Gail Dutton founded Dutton Ranch in 1964. Today, sons Joe and Steve co-own Dutton Ranch with their mother Gail and farm 1200 acres of certified sustainable grapes and 200 acres of certified organic apples, all within the Green Valley-Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast appellations. Upwards of six dozen wineries produce wines from Dutton Ranch grapes. Joe and Steve also co-own their own wineries.

Dutton Estate. Joe and Tracy Dutton established their winery nearby in 1994 and produce wines from Dutton Ranch fruit. Their Sister’s Collection blends fruit from several Dutton Ranch vineyards. The brisk, fruitful, succulent 2015 Chardonnay Kyndall’s Reserve ($42) pleases with pretty lemon and a touch of mineral. The 2015 Pinot Noir “Karmen Isabella” ($46) charms with sweet red fruits and floral notes, complimented with a touch of forest elements. It is elegant, fresh, and earthy.

Dutton-Goldfield. Steve and Theresa Dutton founded Dutton-Goldfield winery in 1998 with winemaker Dan Goldfield. Their Dutton Ranch wines are distinguished by lively fruit and luscious textures: The 2016 Pinot Noir ($44) is supple with full plum and black and an impressive earthy character. The 2015 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch ($38) showed lovely pear and apple fruit in a luscious, elegant palate, with hints of mineral.

Frank Family. Hollywood executive Rich Frank founded this winery in 1992 near Calistoga after purchasing the historic Larkmead winery (established 1884) property. Frank Family has become highly awarded for its Cabernets and I’ve also enjoyed their Zinfandel and sparkling wine. But the winery also now produces fine Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs primarily from the family owned Lewis Vineyard in Carneros and other prime Carneros vineyards. The 2016 Pinot Noir ($38) opens with pretty cherry accented with earthy, woodsy elements. It drinks lushly textured and spicy. The 2016 Chardonnay ($35) is invigorating, with juicy citrus; it drinks lively and richly textured.

La Crema. Another Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist from the Jackson family, this time producing wines from multiple appellations and even Oregon. The Russian River Valley wines are stars. The Monterey and Sonoma Coast wines are especially good values.

Russian River Valley: 2015 Pinot Noir ($40) distinguished by strong earthy qualities, loaded with red berries proffered in an elegant but slightly chewy finish; 2016 Chardonnay ($30) fine citrus, pear and tropical fruits are enhanced with a sense richness

Sonoma Coast: 2016 Pinot Noir ($25) bright cherry, and lightly spicy notes compliment an oaky, velvety finish; 2016 Chardonnay ($23) light touches of apple, pear and cinnamon glide along a brisk frame

Monterey: 2016 Pinot Noir ($23) slight minty note leads into nice cherry and a silky, fresh texture; 2016 Chardonnay ($20) citrus and gingerbread, lush, creamy texture

Ladera. Ladera Estate is a twenty-year-old winery established by Midwesterners who traded in ranching for vineyards on Mount Veeder and Howell Mountain. Today, the owners continue to focus on fruit from high elevation vineyards. But they also added the Pillow Road Vineyard in the southwest Russian River Valley ten years ago for their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which are distinguished by vibrant and velvety textures. 2015 Ladera Pinot Noir RRV Pillow Road Vineyard ($50) herbs, smoked black cherry and blackberry black cherries, mulberries warm plums hints of underbrush and stewed tea full-bodied savory flavors firm, high-toned, chewy texture, velvety smooth and concentrated it finishes on an herbal note cardamom black tea; 2015 Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pillow Road Vineyard ($50) intense, exuberant, creamy up-front acidity freshness floral velvety and exotic nutmeg and cardamom, oak and acidity integrated well.

Scheid. From one of Monterey’s largest growers (having farmed the Salinas Valley since 1972) and their cool-climate, certified sustainable, estate vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands: 2016 Pinot Noir Doctor’s Vineyard ($75) red fruits with herbal and spice, and a zesty finish; and 2016 Chardonnay Escolle Vineyard ($45) nice lemon, orange and pineapple with a mineral note and a light but lively texture.

Sea Slopes. From Fort Ross Vineyards & Winery, these wines are are excellent values for the price intended as more approachable and elegant expressions of Sonoma Coast fruit than their Fort Ross flagship wines. The 2016 Pinot Noir ($35) lively, red berries and plum, hints of spice, smooth texture; the 2016 Chardonnay ($30) opens with brown butter, citrus and spice, and follows with a firm, lively palate.

Sea Smoke. This twenty-year-old winery’s vineyards in the Sta. Rita Hills, which benefit from cooling Pacific Ocean fog (the ‘sea smoke’), also are farmed organic and biodynamic. Sea Smoke is known for its rich, complex, full-bodied but elegant wines. The 2015 Pinot Noir “Southing” ($60) – Southing refers to the south-facing hillside bluffs on the Sea Smoke estate vineyard – presents copious amounts of dramatic cherry and red fruits, with savory, smoky,  licorice, a firm structure, and a powerful, seamless palate.  The 2015 Pinot Noir “Ten” ($82), a selection of ten clones from the estate vineyard, is complex, yet harmonious, with bright red fruits and black cherry, spicy clove, anise and earthy notes. The 2015  Chardonnay ($60) dramatic pear and peach fruit meld with citrus and vanilla oak all head together with a bracing structure.