The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

Whether you realize it or not most wines you drink are blends of multiple grapes (even those varietally labeled) from different vineyards. And industry sales data reveal more wineries these days are featuring wines specifically as blends.

Yes, certain grapes are popular for a reason and make fine wine flying solo, usually something to do with distinctive aromas, flavors or overall character. But just as cultural diversity is a societal strength, so winemakers of all stripes have found varietal diversity to have unique benefits. Try any of the wines below (reviewed in order of preference within each category) and you will taste the synergy in a product that embodies the classic sentiment of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts.

For many, the Bordeaux formula blending various percentages of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, and petit verdot is the template.  For a winery that produces over 1.6 million cases of wine a year, J. Lohr maintains impressive quality at all price points. For our purposes here, a case in point is the Cuvée Series, which takes the exploration of Bordeaux blends so seriously theiy explore three of the main regions of Bordeaux. I’ve recommended these before and the current vintage (2014, $50) continues to impress.

Cuvée POM (Pomerol) 82% merlot + 18% malbec; my favorite of the trio; rich, succulent black cherry and plum, savory chocolate and spices, aroma of fresh soil, full-bodied; drinks supple and juicy, with refined tannins, seamlessly balanced

Cuvée PAU (Pauillac) 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Malbec; 11% petit verdot + 7% merlot; rich, luscious dark berries; intriguing interplay of savory, sweet and oak elements;  quite full with a velvety texture

Cuvée ST. E (Saint-Émilion) 59% cabernet franc, 33% cabernet sauvignon, 7% malbec + 1% petit verdot; juicy plum and blackberry; with roasted notes and hints of oak; fleshy mouthfeel

The wines below are variations on the classic Bordeaux-style blend. Listed in order of preference, each should improve and drink well for the next ten years.

2014 Charles Krug “Generations” Family Reserve  ($60) 84% cabernet sauvignon, 9% petit verdot, 4% merlot + 3% malbec; herbal, earthy notes frame lively fruit, wrapped in rustic tannins

2014 50 Harvests “Meritage” Napa Valley Oak Knoll District ($50) 75% cabernet sauvignon + 25% petit verdot; deep, forward fruit, herbal, fresh textured; a fine collaboration of Napa winemaker Mitch Cosentino and Lodi winemaker Paul Scotto

2014 Acumen “Mountainside” Napa Valley ($45) 42% cabernet sauvignon, 19% malbec, 19% merlot, 14% cabernet franc + 6% petit verdot; minty, herbaceous, earthy, intense, spicy finish, needs time to come together

2016 Chappellet “Mountain Cuvee” Napa Valley ($34) 51 cabernet sauvignon, 13 malbec, 24 merlot, 3 cabernet franc + 9 petit verdot; lively, concentrated, sweet fruit, savory, herbal

2013 Dry Creek Meritage Dry Creek Valley ($26) all five Bordeaux varieties but mostly 40% Merlot and 33% Cabernet Sauvignon; restrained but  juicy berries, touch of  dried herb and spice, drying tannins needs time to resolve

For others, the “Super Tuscans” of Italy are the benchmark, showcasing sangiovese, though often substituting zinfandel and sometimes syrah.

2015 Ferrari-Carano “Siena” Sonoma County Red Wine ($21) sangiovese, malbec, cabernet sauvignon + petite sirah; zesty, fruit-forward red berries, lush, anise and cocoa tinged

2014 Treana “Red” ($45) 75% cabernet sauvignon + 25% syrah; from one of Paso Robles pioneer wineries; intense fruit, tobacco, mocha and woodsy notes add complexity, lush, powerful

Duckhorn Winery’s Paraduxx winery is exemplary here. It is a winery devoted to making only blends. Each of these will benefit from a few years development.

2014 Atlas Peak ($80) 55% cabernet sauvignon + 45% sangiovese; firm, full, oaky, earthy, smooth structure, spicy finish

2014 Howell Mountain ($80) 65% cabernet sauvignon + 35% syrah; dense dark fruit, herbal, leathery, tannic finish

2015 Napa Valley Proprietary Red Wine ($50) 54% cabernet sauvignon, 19% merlot, 16% zinfandel + 11% petit verdot; intense, bright fruit, forest and tobacco notes, smooth

Still others take southern France as inspiration, blending grapes like syrah, grenache, mourvedre, and petite sirah. The ones in this report, though, also mix in Bordeaux and Italian grapes. This is California, after all.

2013 Ancient Peaks “Oyster Ridge” Paso Robles Maragarita Ranch ($60) 75% cabernet sauvignon, 15% syrah, 5% petite sirah + 5% malbec; my favorite of the whole tasting; massive, complex, packed with intense dark fruits, herbs, licorice, mocha, spice, and rich polished texture; will age well

2015 Rodney Strong “Upshot” Sonoma County ($28) 44% zinfandel, 29% merlot, 15% malbec, 7% petit verdot + 5% Riesling (?!); don’t ask me about the resiling because I don’t know how or why that got in there; I just know this offers user friendly, zesty fruit, with hints of tobacco and toast ; it has a lush, slightly dusty texture

2016 Lucas & Lewellen “Hidden Asset” Santa Barbara County ($29) 32% malbec, 30% merlot, 26% syrah, 9% petite sirah + 3% cabernet franc; oaky, menthol, fruity dark berries, light spice, smooth

2016 Pedroncelli “Sonoma Classico” Barrel Select Dry Creek Valley ($19) merlot, zinfandel, petite sirah, syrah; bright fruit, baking spices, dried herbs, smoky notes, rustic texture; good value

California Zinfandel has long been my favorite red wine. There are many reasons it should be yours, too. It can be made in different styles: from bold and jammy with high alcohol to balanced, elegantand nuanced. Expect fresh, succulentfruit, a brash, wild character, moderate tannin, and spicy accents.

It is grown successfully all over the California. And some zinfandel vineyards are among the oldest in the U.S. Thus, the term “Old Vine” has become a badge of honor for producers and a clue to a more concentrated, intense wine.

Zinfandel is the quintessentially American grape, an immigrant that came to California in the early 1800s from Eastern Europe and has succeeded there better than anywhere else. It offers excellent value, considering the overall quality, which can rival the finest wines. Almost all the best are under $50 and there are countless good ones under $30.

Sonoma County (with beauties from the Dry Creek, Russian River, Sonoma and Alexander valleys) is arguably the premier source of superior Zinfandel in the state. Not all the valleys were represented in my tasting but here is ample evidence.

From Dry Creek Valley, the Pedroncelli family offers the zesty, minty, sleek 2015 Mother Clone ($19) from some vines over 100 and the woodsy, spicy, rustic 2016 Bushnell Vineyard ($26).The Dry Creek Vineyard produces its intense, lively, firm 2016 Old Vine ($35) from average 95+ year-old vines.

The cool-climate of the Russian River Valley is better known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But the valley’s Zins similarly are notable for good acidity and elegance. The comparison holds for Dutton Goldfield, who’s zesty, refined, seamless, complex 2015 Dutton Ranch Morelli Lane Vineyard ($50) originates from a 100+ vineyard. And Sidebar offers a rich, heady 2016 Old Vine ($28), a field blend from the pre-1900 Alegria Vineyard.

I also had three good ones carrying a Sonoma County designation. The tight, concentrated 2016 Dry Creek Vineyard “Heritage Vines” ($24), from young vines grafted to pre-Prohibition budwood; rich, juicy 2015 Decoy ($25), the entry-level brand in the Duckhorn portfolio; and one of my favorites from the tasting, the seamless, fruit-filed 2016 Bear Flag ($30).

Though the Napa Valley is best known for Cabernet Sauvignon, it is surprisingly reliable for Zinfandel. Good examples include: luscious, peppery 2016 Frank Family Napa Valley ($37) and juicy, focused, sleek 2013 Grgich Hills ($36).

For many, Lodi is synonymous with Zinfandel, as it grows an estimated 40 percent of California’s Zinfandel grapes. Its hallmark is good value, like these: jammy, smooth 2015 Seven Deadly Zins Old Vine ($16) and the berry compote of 2017 Cline Old Vine ($12).

A couple of other hidden gems: a bright, juicy 2014 Edmeades Mendocino County ($20); and the surprisingly rich and flavorful for the price 2016 Cline Ancient Vines ($15).

Finally a special feature: Ravenswood was established 1976 by Joel Peterson and both have reached icon status in California wine for an array of single-vineyard Zinfandels. Here are three (2015, $39), each from old vines: the concentrated, minty, luscious Dickerson Vineyard (Napa Valley) is one of the few 100 percent Zinfandel; dense, structured, licorice of Teldeschi Vineyard (Dry Creek Valley); and full-bodied, deep, energetic Belloni Vineyard (Russian River Valley).

Although cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, zinfandel, and merlot remain the most popular red wine grapes in California, if you’re like me, you crave something different now and then. Here are a few of the most interesting alternatives – mostly Bordeaux and Rhône varieties – I’ve tasted the past several months.

One of the traditional Bordeaux blending varieties, petit verdot contributes color, tannin and intensity, bold dark fruit and a floral note to the flavor profile. It is made as a single varietal wine in the U.S. but you’re still more likely to find it in a blend like the spicy, herbal, soft 2016 French Bar “Gold Dust Red” ($19).

Another Bordeaux blender, malbec’s appeal as a varietal wine is based largely on a profile of forward dark fruit, mocha, admirable depth, and user-friendly texture. The 2014 Rodney Strong Reserve ($40) elevates this profile with structure, density, and seamlessness.

And then there is cabernet franc, which also plays a supporting role in Bordeaux blends. It is noted for bold red fruits, discreet acidity, and savory bell pepper. The 2016 Ironstone ($14) nicely balances bright fruit, and pepper. Although pricey, the supple, luscious 2015 Chappellet ($85), from one of Napa Valley’s best wineries, bursts with deep fruit, vanilla, mocha, and brown spice.

Syrah is most famous for its prominent role in the great wines of the Rhône Valley. It produces aromatic, fairly full-bodied wines, with dark berries, black pepper, meatiness, and ample but polite tannins. Like in the impressive 2013 Pomar Junction Paso Robles ($38).

These days, I especially appreciate the Rhône blends from Paso Robles. The 2014 ONX “Reckoning” ($59), whose two-thirds syrah is supplemented with grenache, malbec, and petite sirah, is an impressive offering. Complex, structured, and rich, it delivers ripe fruit, with savory, earthy and peppery notes. Also fantastic is the 2014 Tablas Creek “Esprit de Tablas” ($55). Modeled after Châteauneuf-du-Pape, it combines mourvèdre, grenache, syrah, and counoise. Another complex wine, it offers pungent forest notes, smoky anise and a solid frame integrate with a silky texture.

A delightful exception to my Paso rule, the 2014 Paraduxx Napa Valley “Candlestick Blend” ($58), two-thirds syrah/one-third grenache, is vigorous and concentrated, with tobacco, dried herbs and smoky oak.

One of my favorite “alternative reds” is the Rhône origin grape petite sirah. It makes a robust, dense wine of dark berries, tobacco, leather, earth, and pepper. The following wines are excellent examples.

• 2016 Michael David “Petite Petit” ($18) with 15 percent petit verdot, rich, sweet, concentrated, lush, spicy
• 2015 Scheid Hames Valley ($36) peppery, rustic but lush
• 2015 Two Angels “Red Hills” ($27) full, firm, spicy, gripping
• 2015 French Bar ($19) dried flowers, sweet fruit,

Grown extensively in southern France and Spain, carignan often is blended for color, acidity and tannin. As a varietal wine, like the 2016 1000 Stories “Batch Blue” ($19), which happens to be Bourbon Barrel-Aged, it can show red fruits with spicy and savory notes.

Finally, an exception to the French theme: dolcetto, an important grape in Piemonte, offers juicy plum, earthy, and light with friendly tannins, good acidity, combining bitter and sweet flavors. The 2016 Scheid “Riverview” ($34) is notable for its flowery nose, powdery texture, and tight acidity.

I have tasted and reviewed quite a large number of wines in the first eight months of this year. But looking over my notes recently, I realized there still were a number of wines that just hadn’t made their way into one of my columns.

I noted many of these were value priced wines that would make nice everyday-type drinking through the rest of summer and into the cooler seasons. Don’t look for depth or complexity in these wines, just an easy drinking, consumer friendly experience that delivers solid quality for a reasonable price.

First up, I was surprised to find eight recommendable Pinot Noirs. Not long ago, it was almost impossible to find sound, affordable Pinot Noir. Start with the organic Mendocino grapes of the soft, spicy 2016 Bonterra ($16) or the Willamette Valley fruit of the forward, supple 2016 Oregon Trails ($20).

The rest, as it turns out, all benefit from California Central Coast fruit. The juicy 2016 Hess Select ($20) from the Santa Lucia Highlands of Monterey County; and the herbal, minty 2016 District 7 ($20), from Scheid Family Wines and cool-climate, certified sustainable, estate vineyards in Monterey County. Also from Scheid, the bright, savory 2016 Ranch 32 ($17) uses sustainably farmed, estate vineyards from Arroyo Seco area of Monterey.

Farther south, the bright, spicy, herbal 2015 Lucas & Lewellen ($20) also benefits from estate vineyards located in Santa Barbara County and the flavorful 2016 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($17) combines Monterey and Santa Barbara County fruit to fine effect.

I also found seven solid Cabernet Sauvignons. From Sonoma County, the 2016 Rodney Strong ($17), 2016 Chateau Souverain ($14), and 2015 Louis M. Martini ($20), are perennial good values with fine character, as is the substantial 2016 J. Lohr Seven Oaks ($17)from Paso Robles.

The fairly intense 2016 District 7 ($20) from Monterey County; the oaky, slightly sweet 2016 Ravage ($13) from Lodi; and the aromatic, structured 2015 Pacific Crest McNary Vineyard ($20) from the Horse Heaven Hills region in Washington all are good options.

And there were six worthy Chardonnays: the lively, lemony 2016 Rodney Strong Sonoma County ($17), focused 2016 Chehalem “Inox” Unoaked Oregon ($20), spicy, creamy 2016 La Crema Monterey ($20), buttery 2016 Edna Valley Vineyards Central Coast ($15), caramel apple 2016 Chateau Souverain North Coast ($14), and tropical 2016 EmBRAZEN ($16) – the label is a tribute to women’s empowerment and advancement, featuring heralded Latin singer Celia Cruz on the label.

I also was impressed with four blends. From Cline family vineyards in Contra Costa County and Carneros farmed according to the Green String Method, a type of sustainable farming, enjoy the pleasant red fruits and spiceof the 2016 farmhouse Red ($13)and the lively, citrus and pear of the 2017 farmhouse White ($13). Sonoma County’s Pedroncelli offers the exuberant floral, steely 2017 friends.white  ($13) and the fruitful, savory 2016 friends.red ($13).

Finally, two Rosés: the pinot gris-based 2017 Band of Roses ($13), from the highly regarded Washington State producer Charles Smith Wines and one of my all-time favorites, the lively, flavorful Pedroncelli Dry Rosé of Zinfandel (2017, $17).

I once was at a seminar on Italian at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen and Victor Hazan began by declaring, “The color of [Italian] wine is red.” Well, as much as I tend to agree, I am here to say the color also is white and green, completing the colors of the Italian flag.

Italy is a cornucopia of vinous diversity, a boot overflowing with, by some estimates, over 2000 indigenous varieties. There are really good white wines from familiar grapes like chardonnay, sauvignon, gewürztraminer, sylvaner, and pinot grigio. There also is a cornucopia of varieties mostly regional-focused, small production wines well worth seeking out, most of which arebudget friendly. Here I highlight just a few.

The large northeastern regions of Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige and Friuli-Venezia Giulia arguably have led the revolution in Italian white wine production. Most of these wines are unoaked to retain natural freshness. In general, the wines are notable for dramatic aromas, precise structure, and refreshing acidity.

Probably most recognizable to American consumers, Pinot Grigio can be produced in a variety of styles but is generally pleasingly light, brisk melon and citrus notes have been a winning combination. There are boatloads of insipid plonk produced but also quite a bit of distinctive, consumer friendly wines. Like these:

• 2017 Ecco Domani Limited Edition Venezia($12), bright, fresh easy drinking
• 2017 MezzaCorona Trentino ($14) estate bottled, crisp, lean, herbal and mineral
• 2017 Attems Friuli ($20) founded in 1106 and now owned by the Frescobaldi family, it’s crisp citrus, apple, apricot and supple palate reveal vibrant fruitiness
• 2016 Jermann FVG ($30) really satisfying with bracing, flavorful citrus, honey melon, peach and mineral

The pinot grigio grape also features prominently as half of a blend pinot bianco, ribolla gialla, and sauvignon by Villa Russiz, a winery in Friuli very near the border with Slovenia. The 2016  “Les Enfants” ($22) is flavorful and creamy with lively fresh lime flavors, with hints of peach and minerality, pera almond. Villa Russiz also offers a fine 2016 Pinot Bianco ($26) from Collio, a subregion revered for its white wines. It’s lively, with apricot, pear, herb and mineral notes.

Most consumers probably know Soave but don’t recognize garganega, its dominant grape.  Specific to the Veneto, Soave also went through a period of mediocrity. But in the hands of attentive wineries, Soave’s (especially from the original Classico zone) reputation has been restored. Typically, its apple, citrus, and stone fruit are nicely balanced with almond notes. The 2016 Pieropan ($20), from a family whose winemaking heritage dates to 1880, is delightfully aromatic, bracing and mouthfilling with apple and peach,orchard fruit, lemon, stone. I remember tasting it in the 1980’s and for the first realizing just how good Soave can be. While the Inama family has been making Soave Classico for “only” forty-plus years, though they have a long history in the region between Verona and Vicenza. Their 2017 “Vin Soave” ($15) delightfully light with touches of apple, nectarine, lemon, pear,stone and almond. The 2016 “Vigneti di Foscarino” ($25) is a special selection of old vines on the east side of the Monte Foscarino that is vinified (such as barrel fermentation) to recall traditional styles; yielding a wine with a lush texture and notes of apricot, pear and melon balanced with almond.

For a contemporary interpretation of gargenega, try the 2017 Scaia Garganega – Chardonnay ($13). A second label of Tenuta Sant’Antonio, Scaia is a project with a mission to craft a style of wines that respect the traditions of Veneto but tilt to modern tastes. One way they do that is to blend local grapes with international varieties, like this blend of 55 percent garganega and 45 percent chardonnay that is the most aromatic of the wines in my tasting, with a brisk tropical fruit but a lush texture and herbal notes.

Vermentino is a rare variety, grown mostly on the island of Sardegna, Liguria, and the western coast of Toscana, where it produces crisp, medium-bodied wines with refreshing citrus, apple and suggestions of sea air and almond. I found two excellent values  from the Maremma hills of Toscana. The 2016 Aia Vecchia($12) from a small, family owned winery of respected grape growers offers really nice energetic fruit with a hint of minerality and 2016 Rocca di Montemassi “Calasole” ($15) nicely adds melon and vanilla to the profile.

Over on the eastern coast of Central Italy on the Adriatic Sea, verdicchio is the signature white grape of the Le Marche region. The grape mirrors the green in the Italian flag as its name comes from the word “verde” reflecting the wines naturally green shades. Typically refreshing, it features apple, citrus, and stony notes. One of the most respected producers and the oldest family-owned winery in the region (dating back to 1871), Garofoli specializes in the grape, especially from the prestigious Castelli di Jesi area. Its 2017 “Macrina” ($14) is fresh, elegant, and structured with hints of peaches, lemon and mineral. The 2015 “Podium” ($25), a special selection of grapes from a single-vineyard, is impressively fruited and more structured  with notes of apples, honey and toast with almond with minerality.

Finally, two other wines from either end of the peninsula.

In Piemonte in the northwest, Arneis is a prominent white grape that yields typically full flavored wines with lower acidity and softer, fuller texture than the other grapes in this report. Luca Bosio has produced a 2016 ($20) with notes of lime, tangerine, almonds, and flowers. While the grape is thought to have originated in the Roero subregion of Piemonte, this one comes from the nearby Langhe, also known for its prized Barolo and Barbaresco.

Sicily’s grillo is one of several distinctive indigenous varieties on the island worth trying. And coming from Tasca D’Almerita, one of the most prestigious Sicilian estates with over 200 years of winegrowing. A leader in Italy in environmental, social and economic sustainability, the winery’s 2017 Tenuta Whitaker ($22), actually located on the former Phoenician island of Mozia off the western tip of Sicilia, is impressively flavorful with potency and deep citrus fruit and spice in a rather viscous frame.

I have been touting the pleasures of dry rosé for two decades. So, I have been gratified over the last two years to see pink wines finally gaining appreciation in this country.

Of course, sweet “blush” wines have been popular for years but industry publications report wines like White Zinfandel have declined in sales, while drier versions modeled after European styles experience double-digit growth. Even rosé wine festivals are popping up, like the one in Denver this past summer.

Regardless of the grapes used and origins, the best rosé wines display aromas and flavors that approximate the profile of their red siblings but drink more like white wines. Expect bright, fresh fruit aromas and flavors ranging from strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon. Occasionally, you’ll find intriguing mineral or herbal shades. (Note, all wines below are 2017 vintage, unless otherwise stated.)

Thankfully, this growth has been accompanied by improved quality, as I found in my recent tastings. And I find it interesting that many wineries seem to have latched on to pinot noir as the grape of choice. This is likely because the grape typically produces lighter colored wines anyway and tends to reveal its primary aromas and flavors at earlier ripeness than, say, cabernet sauvignon.

From Oregon’s Willamette Valley, I especially enjoyed the tart intensity of the Left Coast ($24), the tangy, balanced Stoller ($25), and juicy WillaKenzie Estate ($23). I also was intrigued by the Left Coast White Pinot Noir ($24): my notes read, “Looks white; smells white; tastes white but somehow drinks definitely pink.”

From California, I found several (in order of my preference but all are recommended) from various appellations.

• Russian River Valley: Rodney Strong ($25) fresh, juicy
• Mendocino County: Copain Tous Ensemble ($25) intense, earthy
• Santa Maria Valley: Cambria Julia’s Vineyard ($25) spicy, tangy
• Santa Rita Hills: Sanford ($22) tart, mineral
• Monterey County: Scheid ($19) bright, floral
• Napa Valley: Educated Guess ($17) delicate, lingering
• Monterey County: District 7 ($16) full, juicy

Rhône varieties, especially syrah, also are popular. I was particularly impressed with the brisk, spicy Sidebar Russian River Valley Syrah ($21); the Klinker Brick “Bricks & Roses” Lodi ($15), an enticing blend of grenache, carignan, syrah, and mourvèdre; and the distinctive green apple and rose of the Rabble “Mossfire Ranch” Syrah ($25) from Paso Robles.

And there were two delightful rosé blends of mostly pinot noir and syrah: Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve (juicy, round, $17) and Decoy (herbal, intense, $20). I also enjoyed the tart, spicy Edna Valley ($16), blending tempranillo, syrah, grenache, and mourvedre and the slightly sweet 2016 Sterling Vintner’s Collection ($14), blending syrah, tempranillo, and zinfandel. Then there were unexpected varietals, like the full, robust Ladera ($30), 100 percent malbec from Napa Valley’s famed Stagecoach Vineyard and a firm, herbal Scotto ($18), 100 percent sangiovese from Mohr-Fry Vineyard in Lodi.

The biggest surprise was Julia’s Dazzle ($20) from Long Shadows Washington State winery. It is 100 percent pinot gris is late harvested to generate more intense flavor and copper color. The result was a model rosé, juicy and vibrant, with hints of spice and green apple.

And now some of those imported rosés.

Europeans have known for a long time the joy of drinking a good dry pink wine and the French term – rosé – has become the most common name worldwide. The French especially, appreciate a good dry pink wine. There is a dizzying array of French rosés from all over the country, though, most notably the south – places like Provence, Rhône Valley, Tavel, and Languedoc-Roussillon.

Rosé from Provence in particular is having its moment. Imports have exploded in the last couple years. Characterized by extremely light salmon color, they are made predominantly using grenache with additions of cinsault and syrah and sometimes a touch of mourvèdre or carignan. I detected a characteristic flavor profile of delicate red berries and citrus fruits, juicy, fresh and a suggestion of creaminess. Here are my favorites from my tasting:

• Château de Berne “Inspiration” ($20) from a property in the hills of Provence where vines have grown since Roman times and that sports a five star hotel and Michelin starred restaurant
• Ultimate Provence “Urban” ($23) located in the countryside on the outskirts of St Tropez; also part of the Berne portfolio; mostly syrah
• Fleur de Mer ($20) a 50 year old cooperative near Saint Tropez
• M de Minuty ($19) an 18^thcentury estate using sustainable methods

Rhône Valley Rosés, similarly based primarily on grenache, syrah, and cinsault, tend to be a bit richer, offering more intensity. I enjoyed the Ferraton “Samorëns” Côtes de Rhône ($15), from organic and biodynamic vineyards, which adds a nice herbal note.

Tavel, a rosé-only appellation in the Southern Rhône, is notable for its darker, more concentrated Rosés. With family connections to this land originating in 1780 and now farmed mostly organically, the Domaine Lafond “Roc-Epire” ($19) as it turns out was my favorite of the tasting. It’s full-bodied with intriguing caramel and spice. From an even older property (1460) in the Costières de Nimes sub-appellation near Tavel, the Chateau de Campuget “Tradition” ($11) is a fine choice in a lighter style with syrah dominating.

Continuing southwest I found two good ones from Roussillon. In theCôtes du Roussillon subregion, the great Rhône Valley producer Michel Chapoutier crafts the fresh, lively Les Vignes de Bila-Haut ($15). Nearby, in an area designated Department 66 (an administrative division in the near the Pyrenees and France’s border with Spain), California winemaker Orin Swift own a winery with the same name and makes the firm, round, spicy, alcoholic “Fragile” Rosé ($18).

And I found a nice interloper from Burgundy to the north from respected producer Roche de Bellene: the Bellenos Rosé of Gamay Noir ($16) from Beaujolais offers crisp apple and watermelon flavors.

Italians also love Rosé, though it is often labeled Rosato. I had two nice ones from Tuscany in my tasting. From the coastal Maremma subregion, the 2016 Aia Vecchia “Solido” ($14) is a flavorful blend of sangiovese and merlot. The Frescobaldi family (who has produced fine wines in Tuscany for over 700 years) offers the delightful “Alie” ($25) is a unique, balanced blend of syrah and vermentino from grapes grown on their estate in also Maremma.

Another winery owned by the Frescobaldi family, the Attems estate (which dates to 1106) in the northeastern region of Friuli Venezia-Giulia produced the 2016 Pinot Grigio “Ramato” ($20). This is a rare, charming wine from this white grape. The wine’s copper hue results from prolonged skin contact during fermentation.

Also in the northeast, this time the Vento, theTenuta Sant’Antoniowinery (a well-known maker of traditional Valpolicella and Soave) also produces fresh, focused wines from local and international varieties under the Scaia label. The Rosato ($13), 100 percent the native rondinella, is lively and juicy.

If you crave pink bubbly, try Cleto Chiarli NV Brut di Noir Rosé Spumante ($15), a Lambrusco from the local grasparossa grape and pinot nero (pinot noir). Made in Emilia-Romagna, Lambrusco produces a range of styles, including this Rosé, with its touch of cinnamon and sea air. Cleto Chiarli has been a benchmark for traditional, honest and high-quality Lambrusco for nearly 160 years in Modena.

Although blush wines have now become something of a fad, these are all seriously good wines that will help you cool off during the heat of the summer but will refresh any time of year.

What do you look for in a white wine? Richness? Fruitiness? Or maybe freshness, aromatics, expressiveness, and character? If your preference is more to the latter, I suggest looking to Alsace, where white wine – Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, and Pinot Blanc – is 90 percent of wine production.

In Alsace, wine also is a family affair, with the vast majority of domaines family-owned and operated, and most tracing their heritage in the region back for centuries. Just think of the history some of these families encapsulate since their establishment: Lucien Albrecht (1425), Emile Beyer (1580), Paul Blanck (1610), Weinbach (1612), Jean-Baptiste Adam (1614), Trimbach (1626), Pierre Sparr (1630), Hugel (1639), Charles Frey (1709), Saint-Rémy (1725), and Keuntz-Bas (1795).

The sense of family and coming together for mutual support extends to a history of growers cooperatives, beginning with Cave de Ribeauvillé in 1895. Cave de Cleebourg in this report, founded in 1946, is one of more than a dozen cooperatives that (according to one source) account for about two out of every five bottles of Alsatian wine.

Alsace also has joined other French regions in pursuing sustainable viticulture, with (according to one source) at least 15 percent of the vineyards certified organic or biodynamic, and increasing by double digits annually. In this report Barmès-Buecher, Saint-Rémy, Emile Beyer, Weinbach, Jean-Baptiste Adam, Kuentz-Bas, Albert Boxler, and Charles Frey all produce significant amounts of their wine organically or biodynamically.

One other distinguishing factor is Alsatian wine labels feature the variety prominently rather than the appellation, as with other French regions. (NOTE: the wines below are listed highlighting distinctive qualities in my order of preference but all are recommended.)

Alsatian Gewürztraminer has long been my favorite white wine after German Riesling. I love the grapefruit and lychee fruit and especially the light spiciness, presented with an unctuous texture along with more body than the typical white. These are good introductions:

• 2014 Weinbach Réserve Personnelle ($32) luscious, slightly sweet
• 2014 Saint-Rémy “Rosenberg” ($28) slightly sweet, green fruits
• 2012 Hugel “Hugel” ($22) delightful anise, cinnamon
• 2015 Pierre Sparr ($20) anise, melon
2012 Barmès-Buecher Tradition ($26) plump melon
• 2015 Gustave Lorentz Réserve ($25) semisweet, anise

Dry Alsace Rieslings also are distinctive. They tend to be distinguished with attractive, pure aromas, plentiful, focused and fresh green apple and citrus fruit, and a firm grip on the palate. Typically the wines carry more weight than their German cousins but the aromatics and acidity are just as bracing.

• 2015 Jean-Baptiste Adam “les Naturs” ($18) vivid, pure fruit, organic
• 2016 Lucien Albrecht Reserve ($20) crisp, steely
• 2015 Kuentz-Bas “Tradition” ($17) taut, energetic
• 2016 Allimant-Laugner ($18) stony, fresh
• 2016 Charles Frey “Granit” ($16) herbal, soft

Alsace also excels with pinot gris and pinot blanc, known (along with pinot noir) as the Pinot Family, since they are mutations of the same variety. My tasting generated a new appreciation for these varieties.

Pinot Gris’ lively, pear, peach, citrus and melon qualities show nicely in these:

• 2013 Trimbach Réserve ($26) flowery, creamy, apricots, touch of bitter almond
• 2016 Emile Beyer “Tradition” ($20 flowery,) balanced apricot and pear, harmonious
• 2015 Cave de Cleebourg “Prestige” Pinot Gris ($15) licorice, estate bottled, juicy apple, rich texture

Pinot Blanc is weightier and shows more pear, lime, melon and apple:

• 2014 Albert Boxler Pinot Blanc Reserve ($31) cinnamon, brisk
• 2014 Hugel Pinot Blanc Cuvée “Les Amours” ($17) crisp green fruits
• 2015 Trimbach Pinot Blanc ($19) zesty stone, weighty, firm
• 2016 Paul Blanck Pinot Blanc ($16) mineral, chalky, tangy

Check out any of these white wines; they are delicious anytime of the year but especially ideal during these hot days of summer.

Americans are bubbling over with demand for sparkling wine. According to industry data, Americans are sipping more of the frothy drink than ever before, and not just during the holidays or special occasions. Consumers are realizing that there is a sparkling wine appropriate for any occasion any time of year.

And the surge is led by Prosecco, the fresh frizzante from the hills north of Venice. Prosecco – the name of the production zone, while the native glera is the dominant grape – unlike the other sparklers in this report is produced using the Charmat Method. With Charmat, bubbles are produced by inducing the second fermentation in pressurized stainless steel tanks, instead of the bottle (as in the Champagne Method). This preserves glera’s fresh aromas and clean meaning the bubbles are created using the Champagne method where the second fermentation occurs in the bottle, delicate pear and peach fruit.

One of the best producers is Bisol. I recently had an opportunity recently to sit down with Gianluca Bisol who now manages the company (his brother, Desiderio, heads up the winemaking). A family-owned winery with a grape growing history that dates back to 1542 near the town of Valdobbiadene, Bisol produces a range of organically farmed Proseccos. Gianluca was in the U.S. to promote Bisol’s new line of Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore.

With a typically light body, and frothy, fresh flavors, Bisol wines such as “Crede” ($24) are affordable and eminently drinkable. Bisol also produces a portfolio of second selection wines labeled “Jeio”, sourced from specific plots in the appellation and dedicated to the patriarch of the family. At under $20, these are fine values.

California sparkling wine consumption has also grown significantly, in fact the fastest of all categories in the past year.

Roederer Estate, which was founded in Mendocino County in 1981 by the Champagne Louis Roederer family, has long been a favorite of mine. These Champagne Method wines are sourced from organically farmed estate vineyards in the Anderson Valley. Importantly, they add oak-aged reserve wines to each year’s cuvée (blend), a practice common in Champagne, to achieve a characteristic richness and complexity. The Brut ($24) is 60 percent chardonnay and 40 percent pinot noir.

Another option comes from Napa Valley’s Sterling Vineyards. Sterling, which was established in 1964 and has become one of the valley’s most popular destinations, uses 100 percent Napa Valley chardonnay for its fresh, citrusy 2016 Blanc de Blancs ($24) and 70 percent Napa chardonnay plus 30 percent Monterey pinot noir for its berry-flecked Sparkling Rosé ($24).

And I was surprised by a Central Coast sparkler by Riverbench. Established in 1973 in the Santa Maria Valley in Santa Barbara County, it’s flagship wine, the 2014 Cork Jumper Rosé ($48), is 80 percent pinot noir and 20 percent chardonnay. I was intrigued by its distinctive sea breeze character.

Champagne, though, still is the world’s most prestigious sparkling wine. Typically blends of pinot noir and chardonnay with dollops of pinot meunier, the best Champagnes balance richness and delicacy.

A Champagne house’s Nonvintage Brut is always a good choice as it represents the signature style of a house and tends to be the most affordable. But sometimes you want something special and Vintage Champagne fits the bill. Such it is with the 2007 Laurent-Perrier Brut Millésimé ($75). Laurent-Perrier has chosen to make vintages very rarely, only selecting the very best years. This one’s luxurious fruit is a perfect example why.

If you like your Champagne very dry, you’ll want to try the Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut “Brut Nature” ($80), which is made with no added sugar (small sugar additions during the winemaking process is common in Champagne) Laurent-Perrier pioneered this category 35 years ago. The wine lives up to its billing with brisk, bracing impact.

Also, keep your eyes peeled for Champagne Collet, a fairly new Champagne to the US. Collet has an interesting history. It was created in 1921 after years of struggle when Champagne growers fought to have their grapes and viticultural integrity recognized and protected. A cooperative of growers that was formed at the time helped establish Appellation system in Champagne and the rst of France in 1936. This cooperative, the oldest in Champagne, still owns Collet.

I attended a product launch event recently and came away impressed with the overall quality and style of the wines. A smaller house, based in the village of Ay, Collet is known for its long aged cuvées, resulting in delicate, complex wines. Its Brut “Art Deco” Premier Cru ($45), Brut Rosé ($50), and Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru ($50) are fine introductions to the brand, which boast eleven cuvées.

Still in France, Crémant is the term used to denote sparkling wines not made in Champagne. Crémant d’Alsace is one of the best and an affordable alternative to Champagne. It is made using the “Methode Champenoise” (sometimes labeled, “methode traditionnelle”). The 100% pinot noir Lucien Albrecht Brut Rosé ($22) offers crisp strawberry fruit with finesse and a nice measure of earthy complexity.

And there is something about effervescent wine that makes it is popular just about everywhere on the planet. Here are three from the Southern Hemisphere.

Ever heard of “Methode Cap Classique”? It’s a designation of South African sparkling wine made by the Champagne Method. And Simonsig is one of its fist producers, having pioneered the style in 1971. Enjoy the 2015 Kaapse Vonkel Brut ($25) 48 percent chardonnay, 49 percent pinot noir, and 3 percent pinot meunier and the 2015 Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rosé ($25). This one is 63 percent pinot noir, 35 percent pinotage, and 2 percent pinot meunier; it is refreshingly crisp with light berry tones.

When you think of wine from Argentina, do you only think of Malbec? I bet you didn’t know there are some pretty good bubbles, too. Try the Pascal “Toso” Brut ($13). With 100 percent estate grown chardonnay, it is freshly citric and goes down easy.

And now for something completely different: How about Sparkling Shiraz from Australia? With characteristic lively red berries, the 2016 Paringa is one of the best I have had in awhile. It is produced by the Hickinbotham family, which has been involved in the Australian wine industry for nearly 80 years and makes of some of Australia’s finest Shiraz. The Hickinbotham family has been growing grapes since 1971 and in 1999 they established the Paringa wine brand. The wine is exuberantly fruity, dry and intense.

(NOTE: All wines in this article are non-vintage unless otherwise noted.)