Will canned wine ever replace wine in bottles? I doubt that but it sure is a market segment that is growing fast. Forbes recently reported sales of canned wine in the U.S. increased 43 percent from June 2017 to June 2018.
And with still some summer left, there is plenty of time for picnics, concerts, festivals, cookouts, camping, parks, and beaches, where wine in cans are most convenient. And they are inexpensive. Yes, many are also cheap wine but there are some that are quite good, like those featured in this column.
One of the first and one of the best wineries to champion canned wine in the U.S. is the Denver urban winery The Infinite Monkey Theorem. It sells a red, rosé, and white for $15 for a four-pack of 250 ml (8.45 oz) cans.
Now big names in the California value wine category, like Barefoot (250 ml, $2) and Dark Horse (375 ml, $3) are getting into the act. Sofia, a label referencing Sofia Coppola, the daughter of Francis Ford Coppola, offers four packs of Blanc de Blancs and Brut Rosé (375 ml, $20). Bonny Doon Vineyard, the Santa Cruz winery best known as a pioneer of Rhone varieties in California, has just released La Bulle-Moose de Cigare, a dry, fizzy pink wine from a blend of red grapes similar to the winery’s celebrated Vin Gris de Cigare (2017, 375 ml, $8).
I have enjoyed a Rosé and Pinot Grigio from AVA Grace (both 375 ml, $5). The California wines in these cans are the same as what they put in their bottles. The Rosé had notes of red berries and watermelon and the Pinot Grigio showed vibrant citrus and pear.
And Oregon is getting into the act with Canned Oregon, a new brand from the trustworthy Stoller Family Estate. You should try the White and Rosé bubbles and the Pinot Gris (375 ml, $8).
Spain also has found canned wine success in the U.S. with brands like Tinto Amorio, a low-calorie sparkling red wine cocktail with lemon and Ah-So, Spain’s first estate grown, organic canned rosé. I was pleasantly surprised to find out it is produced by Juan Carlos Lopez de LaCalle of the celebrated Artadi winery in Rioja in partnership with Dustin and Carrie Chiappetta, owners of Denver’s Pearl Wine Company.
Can or no can, Ah-So is serious rosé. It is 100 percent old-vine garnacha, estate grown in an organically farmed, rosé-specific, high-altitude vineyard in the Navarra region. This crisp, refreshing, wine is packaged as four 250 ml cans ($19) and is notable for its bright cherry and raspberry and clean finish.
So, don’t shy away from canned wine. It has its place. Good wine is good wine regardless of its packaging, whether bottled, boxed, on tap or canned. Actually, sales of alternatively packaged wine are increasing, while retail wine sales in the U.S. between June 2017-June 2018 were flat (again according to Forbes).
Just keep in mind, those 375 ml cans hold half a bottle of wine. That’s more alcohol than two bottles (or cans) of that craft beer we all love, too.
What do you look for in a white wine? Richness? Fruitiness? Or maybe freshness, aromatics, expressiveness, and character? If your preference is more to the latter, I suggest looking to Alsace, where white wine – Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, and Pinot Blanc – is 90 percent of wine production.
In Alsace, wine also is a family affair, with the vast majority of domaines family-owned and operated, and most tracing their heritage in the region back for centuries. Just think of the history some of these families encapsulate since their establishment: Lucien Albrecht (1425), Emile Beyer (1580), Paul Blanck (1610), Weinbach (1612), Jean-Baptiste Adam (1614), Trimbach (1626), Pierre Sparr (1630), Hugel (1639), Charles Frey (1709), Saint-Rémy (1725), and Keuntz-Bas (1795).
Alsace also has joined other French regions in pursuing sustainable viticulture, with (according to one source) at least 15 percent of the vineyards certified organic or biodynamic, and increasing by double digits annually. In this report Barmès-Buecher, Saint-Rémy, Emile Beyer, Weinbach, Jean-Baptiste Adam, Kuentz-Bas, Albert Boxler, and Charles Frey all produce significant amounts of their wine organically or biodynamically.
Dry Alsace Rieslings also are distinctive. They tend to be distinguished with attractive, pure aromas, plentiful, focused and fresh green apple and citrus fruit, and a firm grip on the palate. Typically the wines carry more weight than their German cousins but the aromatics and acidity are just as bracing.
As warmer weather emerges, many of us begin to pay more attention to white wines, rosés, and lighter red wines. Among the whites, Chardonnay is the undisputed favorite of American consumers.
Remote, rugged and sparsely populated, the Anderson Valley of Mendocino County is an unexpected source of fine Pinot Noir. The wines typically are concentrated, with noticeable tannin structure but deftly balance power and elegance. The 2015 Goldeneye ($55), with its smoky oak, dense fruit, and grace epitomizes this style. The delightful 2015 FEL ($38) also reveals enticing plum and forest notes.
The Sonoma Coast is California’s newest “hot” region for Pinot Noir. But ironically that’s mainly because of its cool climate, similar to the Russian Valley heavily influenced by fog, rain and wind from the Pacific Ocean. I was particularly impressed with three wines from MacRostie, especially the 2014 Wildcat Mountain ($56) for its pure fruit, floral hints and aromatic herbs; and the 2014 Goldrock Ridge ($56) with its supple, savory nature; while the 2014 Sonoma Coast ($38) with its vibrant fruit and earth-tinged character was not far behind. For a good value, try the 2015 La Crema ($25) with its plum fruit, woodsy character and fine tannins.
Straddling the southern end of Sonoma and Napa counties, Carneros has transformed from sheep and dairy ranches to prime vineyard land over the last fifty years. Cooled by fog and winds from the bordering San Pablo Bay, the resulting wines typically display admirable delicacy, balance and freshness. The three wines from Carneros in my tasting all were outstanding. The 2015 Frank Family ($35) is quite earthy and spicy, while richly textured. The 2015 Clos du Val “Gran Val Vineyard” ($60) shows abundant juicy fruit, in a complex mix of floral, spice and earth qualities. The 2014 Bouchaine Estate ($35) is nearly as good with sweet but focused berries accented with baking spices.
The south facing slopes of the Santa Lucia Highlands inland from Carmel personify Monterey’s interplay between cooling ocean and inland heat. And the wines, known for deep berry fruit and enticing floral character, have rocketed to acclaim in the last few decades. Unfortunately, many are small production but these two are more available. The 2014 J. Lohr “Highlands Bench” ($35) is a fine example with its full, rich body and silky texture. Talbott Vineyards makes several fine wines from its Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, including the 2015 Kali Hart ($26), which I found to be a good value for its approachable, bright character.
The Arroyo Seco region to the south of the Santa Lucia Highlands also has emerged as a good source. From the Scheid family, one of Monterey’s largest growers, the 2015 Metz Road Riverview Vineyard ($35), nestled on a bench overlooking the Salinas River not far from Soledad, nicely balances bright red fruit with ample herbal notes. Carmel Road winery, part of the Kendall-Jackson stable, has fashioned three beautiful wines in the 2014 vintage from the Panorama Vineyard: “North Crest” ($55) – dark and full with intense spice, “South Crest” ($55) – tangy red fruit and firm but silky mouthfeel, and “First Row” ($55) – delightful floral and spice notes wrapped around deep red fruits.
Further south in San Louis Obispo County, the Edna Valley and Arroyo Grande Valley are relatively small in size but a handful of small, artisan producers have shown their promise in a big way. The 2015 Tolosa “1772” ($65) is a fine representative of Edna Valley, marked by textural lushness and beautiful balance. From Arroyo Grande, the 2014 Talley Estate Bottled ($36), which is just one of a long line of Talley bottlings, offers vibrant red fruit, with attractive mineral and spice.
Finally, a few miles farther south in Santa Barbara County (an hour and a half north of Los Angeles) two regions rival Sonoma as California’s best source of Pinot Noir. Typically, Santa Maria Valley wines tend toward elegance, bright fruit and precise structure. Though I had only one such wine in my tasting, I found the 2014 Cambria “Benchbreak” ($25), a selection from the estate’s Julia’s Vineyard to be a fine value. Not surprising, as it is estate grown, family-owned, and sustainably farmed.