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WINE IS INTEGRAL TO CHANUKAH/HANUKKAH CELEBRATIONS

This time of year, it seems customary for wine writers to publish their recommendations for the upcoming holidays. I’m usually not much for following the pack but, in this case, I think it’s a public service to continue the practice.

Usually this means the Christmas holidays but this column focuses on Chanukah (or Hanukkah). The eight-day holiday, also called the Festival of Lights, runs this year from December 12-20. It celebrates a victory of the Maccabean Revolt against the Seleucid Empire of the 2nd century BCE over their Greek/Syrian enemies and commemorates the rededication of the Holy Temple in Jerusalem after a group of Jewish warriors defeated the occupying armies.

And my focus is even more specific to kosher wines from Israel. Many people choose to serve wines that are kosher-certified on Jewish holidays like Passover, Rosh Hashana (the Jewish New Year), and Chanukah. Though historically relegated to a kosher aisle in liquor stores, the country’s wines have improved significantly in recent years and increasingly can stand on their own as fine wines.

With a winemaking heritage for more than 5,000 years, Israel had only about 20 table-wine producers ten years ago. Today, there are more than 200 wineries and the largest 17 are all kosher. Mostly European grape varieties – such as cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, merlot, syrah, and grenache – are used.

Kosher wine is made in the same way as other wine. The distinction is that there are strict purity guidelines requiring rabbinical oversight during the whole process from the moment the grapes enter the winery to when the wine is bottled and Sabbath-observant Jews must handle the wine. Any ingredients used, including yeasts and fining agents, must be kosher.

Technically, as I understand it, to retain its kosher status (usually labeled on bottles as Kosher for Passover), a wine must be opened, served and drunk by Sabbath-observant Jew. So, there is a second type of kosher wine labeled “meshuval” that allows non-observant Jews and non-Jews to handle the bottle and share with observant Jews. The one difference with this type of kosher wine is that it is “flash pasteurized.” When applied properly, this gentle form of heating the wine sterilizes it without harming quality.

In the past, the wines actually were boiled (mevushal translates as cooked) and that process did negatively affect the wine. Thanks to flash pasteurization producers can make mevushal wines without tasting as if they’ve been boiled.

So, what to drink with the classic Chanukah dishes? It took me some research but these are sample pairings I recommend. (For more suggestions, Golan Heights and Galil Mountain wineries offer a Middle Eastern food and wine-pairing guide at http://bit.ly/2mkmjVE.)

First, recognize the most traditional Chanukah foods are fried in oil. This commemorates the Biblical story in which a one day supply of olive oil lasted the Maccabees eight days and nights, long enough for more oil to be pressed, when they reclaimed the Holy Temple.

 

Potato Latkes, with their sour cream and applesauce are earthy, tangy, creamy, and sweet. Pair with crisp white wines like the off-dry 2015 Nik Weis Gefen Hashalom German Riesling ($19). An unoaked Chardonnay or Prosecco are good alternatives.

Potato Kugel is more savory and eggy; so a lighter red like the 2014 Teperberg Impression Merlot ($18) for its graceful palate, solid plum and foresty berry fruit, works nicley. Pinot Noir or a dry white wine also are good choices.

 

For the main course, brisket appears to be the most popular, while pot roast and short ribs also make appearances. A rich, full-bodied red like the 2014 Carmel Cabernet Sauvignon Appellation Series ($20), with its vibrant red fruits buttressed with firm tannins is sure to satisfy. Other good options are wines based on zinfandel, syrah, grenache, or malbec. If you prefer a softer, sweeter red, the 2016 Carmel Mediterranean Blend Selected Series should do it. Planning a roast chicken? Try Beaujolais or a Cabernet Franc.

Sufganiyot (jelly donut) is the most common dessert choice. For this and other desserts, I’d suggest sparkling wine, especially off-dry styles like Demi-Sec, Prosecco, or artisan Lambrusco. If you must have sweet wine even with sweet foods, the luscious and sweet apple of the($20) from Clarksburg in California is ideal, and only 8.5 percent alcohol.

Other reliable Israeli wineries you are likely to find represented on your local store shelves include Golan Heights, Yarden, Gamla, and Galil Mountain. This column has focused on Israeli wines but there are fine kosher wines made in many places around the world. Just a few prominent examples include Hagafen, Covenant and Baron Herzog in California; Kedem in New York: Château Malarctic LaGraviere, Cuvee Centenaire, Louis Blanc, and Pascal Bouchard in France; Clos Mesorah and Capçanes in Spain; Bartenura in Italy; and Goose Bay in New Zealand.

 

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SAMUEL ADAMS AUTUMN SEASONALS

We’re well into fall and quickly approaching the holiday season. And the brewers at Samuel Adams have brewed up a six-pack of seasonals I am confident you will enjoy. Herewith reviews and recommendations:

 

Samuel Adams Octoberfest (5.3% ABV 16 IBU)

Octoberfest celebrations may be in your rear window but this fine Märzen style beer should still be in your front seat (that’s a metaphor; I don’t mean of your actual car). It is a pleasant, easy drinking, deep red amber brew with malt and wheat tones. It’s Tettnang Tettnanger, Hallertau Mittelfrueh hops tread lightly, while and its malts – Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend, Munich-10, Samuel Adams Octoberfest malt, and Caramel 60 – dominate providing a smooth palate and finish.

 

Samuel Adams Harvest Hefe (5.4% ABV 14 IBU)

This deep golden beer uses Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend and White Wheat with Hallertau Mittelfrueh and Spalt Spalter Noble hops to achieve a malty profile with a touch of caramel followed by spicy citrusy and lightly earthy qualities that finish fairly dry with some bitterness. It puts a seasonal twist on a traditional hefeweizen with the addition of warming fall flavors. Aromatic notes of cinnamon and nutmeg complement the slightly sweet and clove flavors characteristic of the style, making for a bright, spiced beer.

 

Samuel Adams 20 Pounds Of Pumpkin (5.7% ABV 14 IBU)

Dark reddish amber in color, this one begins with Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend, Caramel 60, Special B, and smoked malt, which presumably is responsible for the malty flavors that compliment a mildly fruity beer. I don’t pick up the East Kent Goldings and Fuggles hops but they likely are what lift this nice drink to excellence, ending with a very spicy finish. Critically, it is brewed with real pumpkin – about 20 lbs. of it per barrel – and a blend of classic pumpkin pie spices – clove, cinnamon, ginger, allspice, and nutmeg. It yields a rich pumpkin pie taste (not sweet, though) accented with those brown spices.

 

Samuel Adams Dunkelweizen (5.1% ABV 13 IBU)

This amber wheat beer (pretty dark amber brown color) combines the spicy, fruity flavors of a traditional Hefeweizen with the sweet, toffee-like notes of roasted malt. Chinook hops compliment Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend, Wheat, Dehusked Carafa malt varieties. Aromas of creamy caramel and cardamon anticipate similarly spicy flavors with a creamy texture and a crisp finish.

 

Samuel Adams Honey Rye Pale Ale (5.8% ABV 33 IBU)

With a base of Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend, Rye Malt, Honey Malt and Simcoe, Cascade, Ella hop varieties, this deep amber drink satisfies with peppery, creamy, malty aromas and a light, crisp, citrusy palate finishing with a slightly bitter herb (maybe from the rye?) finish.

 

Samuel Adams Maple Red Ale (6.3% ABV 18 IBU)

A smooth, rich maple character (Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend, Special B, Naked Oats malt varieties) rounds out this deep red beverage’s hints of malt, pine and vanilla. With a fresh impact, more mapley malt and pine, leading into a spicy, crisp ending. Chinook hop varieties add a note of complexity.

 

So, pick up a mixed six pack including each beer or maybe six six packs, one of each beer. They’re a fine way to ease into the colder weather of the season.

NOTE: Featured image is courtesy of Samuel Adams.

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SLOW FOOD NATIONS – DAY THREE

On the third and final day of Slow Food Nations, I attended a panel on “Food and Freedom” with Carlo Petrini, Corby Kummer and Barry Lynn of the New America Foundation Open Markets Program (see NOTE below). With Slow Food USA Executive Director Richard McCarthy and Alice Waters in attendance, Petrini and Lynn focused on the questions “how, in an age of globalization and transnational capital flows, people all over the world are taking ownership over their local food systems? How are we balancing food with freedom?”

Carlo Pertini opened the conversation stating that concentration of power, how it affects wealth, opportunity, and quality of life actually kills people, and it’s worse today and growing, with food choices in the hands of a few. He illustrated the point noting that companies realized they could affect the price of products by manipulating supply and availability. Treating food as a commodity, they withhold grain and stockpile it until the price rises, and actually the smaller the group doing the withholding, the larger their power. He pointed out this practice of investor speculation in food beginning in the 2007/2008 period was one of the causes of the Arab Spring, more so than political or philosophical causes – people were hungry and desparate.

But in a situation of concentration, keeping food prices low still favors this small group of large firms because it devalues food produced by small suppliers. When food stops being food and becomes a commodity, with speculation at each step on the way to market, we have lost track of where food comes from. Petrini said this is an international problem – production and distribution costs are no longer as important as the gross accumulation of the product. He gave examples of tomatoes and tuna (saying we will not have a sustainable supply of tuna in ten years).

Barry Lynn continued with a little history lesson about the original Tea Party. Despite the stories we have been told, it was not because of high taxes but a protest against an international monopoly called the East India Tea Company as a threat to the colonists’ liberty by interfering with the ability of farmers and consumers to interact freely. It was a foundational ethic in this country that fighting monopoly protects democracy from monopolists and allows communities to decide how to interact with each other, thus also protecting families by enabling them to have enough to live.

What happened to that ethic? According to Lynn, the Chicago School of “free market” capitalists and “command and control” socialists actually came together in the 1970’s to get rid of anti-monopoly law and reinterpreted it to apply to consumers instead of citizens. This change to the anti-monopoly law has led us to today – looming autocracy.

His example of a chicken farm: labor laws protect workers but not in farming because farming is supposed to be controlled by open and free markets. That  used to work when there were many small buyers; now there usually is only one large buyer and the “tournament system” allows the buyer to pit the farmers against each other (instead of relying on collective action) by paying each different prices – none of this is audited or tracked; the company has all the information and power. For an entertaining but ultimately depressing explanation, he referred us to this John Oliver Last Week Tonight Episode.

Mr. Petrini added that the European Union built a barrier against GMOs, even creating a DO (denomination of origin) for food products (in an effort to guarantee authenticity) but has been getting pushback from the U.S. and others to allow GMOs in. He repeated the problem began when we became consumers rather than citizens. Then we became complicit.

So what can we do? he asked. How do we construct an opposition to this? “What we need is fellowship among Italian and American farmers.” I think Mr. Petrini would agree with me asserting that he also means farmers from all over the world should find ways to collaborate to decrease reliance on central governments and multinational corporations. He added that the vision is simultaneously local (focused on the farmers and the community) and international (to share knowledge and resources).

An illustration: Mr. Petrini said we (the developed countries) consume too much, especially meat, while others don’t have enough. We must favor both “contraction” (for those who have too much) and “convergence” (for those who have too little). [I thought: sharing resources-what a concept?] He pointed out the World Health Organization in October 2015 said too much meat increases the risk of cancer (especially processed meat).


Then, he asserted, “we all make policy by eating” and revisited this famous wisdom from Wendell Berry in the essay “The Pleasures of Eating” where he says “eating is an agricultural act.” And, Petrini continued, therefore “eating is a political act,” an insight also offered by Michael Pollan in this interview in The Atlantic. I believe he even made the statement, at least that’s what my notes show: “eat local, the rest is slavery.” He urged further study of this policy but emphasized beginning at the grassroots, pointing out we are political subjects and must take action to cultivate our own food system.

Barry Lynn jumped in pointing out what Louis Brandeis wrote in 1913 that this is especially important as we have seen throughout our history: “Far-seeing organized capital secures by this means [price cutting] the co-operation of the short-sighted unorganized consumer to his own undoing. Thoughtless or weak, he yields to the temptation of trifling immediate gain, and, selling his birthright for a mess of pottage, becomes himself an instrument of monopoly.”

He argued again this nation’s first revolution was against monopoly and a second revolution also was against monopoly control – the Progressive era, when farmers and others rose up, and in the election of 1912 when Woodrow Wilson (who wanted to break up the monopolies) defeated Howard Taft (who wanted to let monopolies have control), and Theodore Roosevelt (who believed monopolies were inevitable but government should oversee them).

And Lynn then said we are now called upon to create a third revolution against monopolies – and he said it is beginning to happen – in the way people responded in the last election to Donald Trump and Bernie Sanders (and Elizabeth Warren) because both political parties have been offenders. Responding to Brandeis’ critique, he said we are going to have to save ourselves by spending our money more self consciously and socially consciously.

Mr. Petrini praised efforts to reduce food waste and also reiterated his earlier statement that we must be willing to pay more for food (he said his food costs in 1975 were about 30% and today are about 12%, so he actually could afford to spend more on food). He said we will need to change our thinking about food calling it an anthropological challenge to move away from the fear of hunger, which leads to hoarding food and then throwing much of it away. He concluded praising “marginalized communities” that have been subjected to power but are beginning to respond by strengthening community and working together to help each other in open markets [without a corporate middle man]. Ultimately, “liberty will come from our individual behavior and our relations.” No corporation (even Wal-Mart, Amazon or Whole Foods) will solve the food desert problem – it will be communities acting with mutual aid. Of course, he acknowledged, this is hard work and it takes strength to be a co-producer. But this is the work that must be done.

And, as Richard McCarthy put it in this post-festival snapshot: “Change is not easy. It can be clumsy, but there is no alternative. We do not have all the answers or all of the people. Not yet.”

 

NOTE: Mr. Lynn and his team at Open Markets “were let go [by New America Foundation effective September 1] because the leaders of my think tank chose not to stand up to Google’s threats.” This is a charge Google and the New America Foundation disputes. For his part, Lynn and the Open Markets team have established a new organization, Citizens Against Monopoly to continue the fight.

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COOL AND FRESH AND LIGHT: WILD STANDARD HAS WINE AND SEAFOOD PAIRING IDEAS FOR SUMMERTIME

Wine and food pairing is a regular topic among consumers and wine professionals alike. This stands to reason, as wine is best consumed with food.

 

Although some wine professionals get carried away with elaborate recommendations – and sometimes I drift in the opposite direction following the adage “drink what you like with what you like” – I have been doing this (drinking wine, eating food and writing about it) long enough to realize that most of the time at least some care in choosing food/wine combinations pays dividends.

 

In the warm weather of summertime, our focus tends to be on colder and lighter foods and wines, though there are some notable exceptions (barbecue and pizza to name two). One of the first foods that comes to my mind is seafood and fish. So, I was delighted recently when I had a chance to sample several pairings with Simon Vazquez General Manager of the Boulder seafood restaurant Wild Standard.

 

Wild Standard has become a sustainable seafood and farm-to-table dining destination and Simon was anxious to demonstrate “the variety of whites, rosés and even reds that can elevate and add more distinction to the selection of seafood [particularly chilled seafood] flavors on your plate.” I met with him one afternoon to sample several wine combinations he had arranged with the food prepared by Wild Standard’s expert kitchen.

We began with a Kumamoto oyster (from Washington) paired with a glass of Naveran Cava, a blend of macabeo, xarello, chardonnay and paralleda, this Spanish sparkler’s high-toned fruit and brisk acidity nicely cut through the creamy, mild flavor of the Kumamotos. Simon suggested a full flavored Rosé also would go well.

 

A Seaside Virginia oyster was briny and sweet, which proved a nice match for an off-dry Schmitt Sohne “Relax” Riesling. He added that Champagne also is excellent with these oysters (I added that Champagne is excellent with everything.)


On to a Tuna poke and a rare Vinho Verde Rose from Nordico. It’s delicate flavors and minerality nicely accented the flavorful tuna. This tuna also would be good with a chilled light red wine like a Beaujolais-Villages, a Grenache from southern France (same as Garnacha from Spain) or a Nero d’Avola from Sicily.

 

Next Simon pulled off a nifty comparison of ceviche and escabeche with blended wines from Colorado’s own Jack Rabbit Hill. The ceviche (basically citrus marinated fish) tasted especially clean with the “Wild White” but that Riesling or a Gruner Veltliner from Austria would be nice here, too. The escabeche (essentially pickled vegetables or fish) needed the assertive flavors of the “Wild Red.” But I sensed it also would be quite fine with a slightly sweet Riesling.

 

We finished with house cold-smoked wild Alaskan King Salmon and an A to Z Pinot Noir from Oregon. While the pairing is rather obvious, it’s also obviously delicious. A light smokiness and inviting cherry flavor in the wine played well with the salmon. Still, I’d like to try an Alsatian Gewurztraminer or a Sauvignon Blanc with it sometime.

Needless to say, this tasting was just an illustration of the infinite possibilities for fish/seafood and wine pairing. And you will delight in experimenting for yourself. If you can get to Boulder, Wild Standard boasts a raw bar with shrimp, lobster tails, snow crab legs and king crab legs, in addition to oysters and a variety of sampler platters, all sourced from purveyors who support sustainable practices.

 

And by the way, Chef Heap also operates SALT Bistro next door to Wild Standard on Pearl Street and Colterra in Niwot.

 

NOTE: Photos are courtesy of Wild Standard.

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SLOW FOOD NATIONS – DAY TWO

With the Delegate Summit completed on Friday, Saturday inaugurated the Slow Food Nations Festival. Larimer Street between 14th and 15th streets and 14th Street between Market and Lawrence were dotted with booths of the taste marketplace, a kids area with gardens & cooking, and international pavilions. And it all was free and open to the public, although, of course, there was plenty of small, artisan made products for sale.

The festival kicked off with a panel titled “Love the Earth, Defend the Future: Taking Action to Protect Our Food.” The panel included Carlo Petrini-founder and president of Slow Food International; Alice Waters-chef (and author) founder of Chez Panisse(what some have called (the original farm-to-table restaurant) and vice president of Slow Food International; Ron Finley-an advocate for urban transformation through urban gardening and fresh, healthy produce for kids; Michel Nischan-chef, author, and advocate, focused on sustainable food systems and social equity through food; and musician Jack Johnson who is a proponent for sustainable local food systems and plastic free initiatives.

Kim Severs, a journalist with The New York Times who moderated the panel, began by saying she likes that Slow Food has been political but not partisan and described it is “a delicious revolution.”

Some of the panel highlights I noted:

Alice Waters compared our current times to the Vietnam War era-It’s a lot worse than we know, so we have to do something dramatic together.

  • But isn’t food frivolous in these times? Quoting Ron Finley-not at all, we can’t survive without it. More people are killed in East LA by drive-ins than drive-bys.
  • It’s not a bad thing that the Administration is not doing much on food because that leaves it up to us. Farmers markets, food hubs, etc. are disruptive initiatives, with or without government involvement.
  • Still, we need to ask our politicians really tough questions about food and educate them

Ron Finley noted he is not working with the government because “they have enslaved us, it is a WMD.” He stressed the importance of starting early educating young people about real food.

Jack Johnson added you make them fall in love with good food “because you protect what you love.”

One of the panelists – I didn’t catch which – added this startling statistic: For the cost of one dialysis treatment, 250 people can eat three meals a day.

And Carlo Petrini spent a significant amount of time singing the praises of (writer and Kentucky farmer) Wendell Berry : It seems odd that you are looking for a political solution when you have the answer right here: Wendell Berry, he is insightful and knows the rot in the system. More:

  • Eating as an agricultural act is the most important thing. I don’t want to eat things I don’t know. Is it just a matter of how cheap it is?
  • Wendell also talks about how we need to pay more for our food. As long as we pay so little for our food, put such a low value on it, there won’t be change. There are negative externalities that destroy nature, community, the economy.
  • The revolution starts with each of us and the food we eat. Understand the difference between price and value.
  • Biodiversity, sustainability, soil fertility all are important.
  • If we want to bring about this change, politicians will follow us. We have to regenerate the economy buy paying value, paying more, then we can change politics. Be generous; we can’t change politics by being stingy.

 

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SLOW FOOD NATIONS – DAY ONE

The world came to Denver today, Friday July 14, 2017. Well, the world of Slow Food anyway. But it is an important world, one of small farmers, artisan food producers, chefs, conscientious consumers and food justice activists. For three days they come together to take stock of the progress of the about 30 year-old movement—and the challenges facing the growing international food movement. The event appropriately is called Slow Food Nations, reflecting the international nature of the movement.

The food festival, which will be held Saturday and Sunday, was preceded today with the Delegate Summit of leaders in the movement who gathered to meet, share stories, discuss a wide variety of food issues, and help shape the future of Slow Food. Richard McCarthy, Executive Director, Slow Food USA, kicked off Slow Food Nations with an address to an estimated 500 delegates. The slide below condenses the message while focusing the on the values being practiced.

Richard Salvador (Director, Food & Environment, Union of Concerned Scientists) followed bringing an international perspective. His talk emphasized the the rights of workers in food production and each persons role in creating a good food system for all. I was particularly struck by a slide he showed demonstrating the relative cost of a McDonalds hamburger in different locales around the world. It helps to put the importance of local food production into perspective.

A highlight of the day, of course, was the lunch under a big, open tent in Civic Center park. Alice Waters welcomed everyone by talking about connecting agriculture and food (farms and gardens) with education and learning (schools and curriculum). She said, “I don’t want to talk about it. I want you to taste it and smell it and connect with (others).” She also stressed the importance of food for learning, how many children don’t even have one meal a day with their family. Then she talked about haw it would be revolutionary to connect school with farming and how she has an idea of the school lunch as an academic subject. While students from the Each One, Teach One program of Denver Public Schools helped with the food preparation, I was struck by how participatory the service was as people at all the tables we asked to volunteer to help bring food to their table.

The afternoon included a variety of workshops and break out sessions. I was struck by the workshop on Breaking the Corporate Stranglehold, when attendees took a break to call their members of Congress to ask them to cosponsor the Opportunities for Fairness in Farming Act and the Voluntary Check off Act, which would reform the commodity checkogf programs. At a workshop on Aligning the Good Food and Food Justice Movements presenters stressed the relationships between producers an consumers and discussed the pros and cons of exploring different business models, such as Community Supported Agriculture and cooperatives.

Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini appropriately gave the closing keynote address to the delegate summit (translated by The Atlantic Senior Editor Corby Kummer). His address touched on the Slow Food values of self-sufficiency, small and local, organic production. Mr. Petrini also emphatically criticized so-called free trade treaties saying these international treaties made in the name of Free trade demolish small scale production. They reduce food to the level of commodity. “Free trade is the freedom for the foxes to eat chickens. And we know who the foxes are and who the chickens are.”

The speech continued touching on the surveillance state and privacy but how the new methods of communication can enable faster change. This technology is the means. the question is how do we use use it for our own community?

He added the international community hasn’t acted the way it should on Climate Change, even with the Paris agreement. And declared it’s the poor countries that suffer the most – many Slow Food members in Africa already have lost much of their crops, according to him.

Quantity vs. Quality? Mr. Petrini expressed concern about the increase in meat consumption notably in China. Noting the next Slow Food International Congress will be held in China he said there isn’t enough land, so they increasingly buy meat from the USA or Brazil without knowing the impact on the environment, their culture. “We want food with an identity.” He gave an example of the Slow Food vision noting prosciutto: it’s important to know what kind of pig, where it is from, how it was raised, etc. He acknowledged this means we need to make changes in our lifestyle: eat less meat but better meat, pay attention to where it is from, use fewer chemicals, and reduce waste.

“Participatory democracy begins with participatory food production.”

Mr. Petrini, approaching the close of his address, stressed the urgency of the food movement’s work. And pointed to the central role of the farmer: Now is the time to share – the common knowledge, folk knowledge of farmers is scientific knowledge. Farmers are themselves a university, an extended university. Farmers deserve respect, for their work, experience, knowledge, their scientific knowledge. Local farmers and food producers are scholars, scientists, a university of agricultural knowledge diffused. Traditional knowledge needs to work on an equally respected footing with academic knowledge

And Mr. Petrini noted the food movement can build bridges to other movements: We all depend on each other. We must be inclusive, with less structure, more ideas. When a movement becomes too structured, it starts to die. Focus on ideas, not structure. Let young people pursue their ideas. Focus on human relations instead of spreadsheets. Finally: a different kind of democracy will emerge. The new metaphor for our new dimension is the vegetable. Vegetables don’t have a brain but they work without a leader. The biggest leader is the group. So, the more people there are to think, the fewer errors they make. We need less bureaucracy, more empathy.

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ITALIAN SANGIOVESE: AN IDEAL SUMMER RED

European countries generally are distinguished by their predominate use of indigenous varieties in their wines. And Italy especially is known for its abundance of indigenous grape varieties (nearly 400) cultivated for the production of wine.  Of all those, sangiovese (translated as the blood of Jupiter)  rises above in quantity – it’s Italy’s most planted variety – and quality (with the exception of nebbiolo) – it’s most responsible for the great wines of Tuscany.

 

And it is in Tuscany, where it is believed to have originated thousands of years ago, that sangiovese reaches its epitome.The Tuscan hills (particularly between Firenze and Siena) just seem to have been created to nurture the sangiovese grape to its essence. Generally, quality wines made with sangiovese exhibit deep, bright cherry aromas and flavors with firm, dry structure and earthy qualities. But, even within Tuscany, different clones, grown in different microclimates yield distinct expressions.

 

Generally, quality wines made with sangiovese exhibit deep, bright cherry aromas and flavors with firm, noticeably dry structure and earthy qualities. Sometimes supplemented with other grapes to fill out the wine. These qualities make sangiovese wines great with food. They pair well with hearty red meat and poultry, pasta, dishes such as Bolognese or chicken cacciatore as well as burgers and pizza.

 

Chianti is the most famous rendition, at least in the U.S. The cooler, wetter climate leads to higher acid wines, complex, firm and savory. Current laws allow up to 20% other grapes, usually the native grapes canaiolo and colorino, but also sometimes cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Still, many these days are 100% sangiovese. Ruffino is one of Chianti’s most recognizable names. Founded in 1877, Ruffino claims to be the first Chianti imported to the U.S. As an inexpensive, everyday wine, the sangiovese of the 2014 Ruffino Chianti ($10) is supplemented 30% with other grapes and released with minimal aging. It is a good everyday wine.

For a little more money (ok, twice the money) it’s worth stepping up to Chianti Classico. The grapes come from a more delimited zone, basically the center of the Chianti region, with a history of making the best wines.  Not long after Ruffino, the Cecchi (check-ee) family began making Chiant in 1893. The 2014 Cecchi Chianti Classico “Storia di Famiglia” ($22) might be described as a traditional style, in that its 90% sangiovese is supplemented with local varieties and aged in large casks. Intense dark cherries yield to earthy flavors as the wine reveals a richness that finishes with firm tannins.

And if you like that, venture on to Chianti Classico Riserva. Riserva’s require more aging before release and Ruffino’s Riserva “Ducale” (2012, $25) has been one of my favorites since I first started drinking wine. Made since 1927, this vintage luxuriates in its 20% merlot and cabernet sauvignon. A special selection of estate grapes, it was aged 24 months in a combination of oak, stainless steel, and concrete vats.

 

And there are other worthy manifestations of sangiovese deserving of your attention. Among wine intenditori (Italian for connoisseurs), Brunello di Montalcino is even more prized than Chianti. It also is more expensive, with some bottles costing several hundred dollars. Named after the town of Montalcino and the local clone of sangiovese, the area’s warm, dry summers, 30 miles from the sea, and rocky soils, combined with that specific clone produce some of the most concentrated, muscular, long-lived versions of sangiovese. Typically 100% sangiovese, Brunello almost mandates several years of development before drinking. As great as Brunello is, a better option for our purposes is Rosso di Montalcino. Basically made from younger vines or declassified grapes, these wines give you a taste of Brunello without the hit to the wallet. A good one is the 2010 Banfi ($25). Aged 12 months in French oak and six months in bottle, it is lighter and less concentrated  than Brunello but still lush and fruitful, earthy and fresh, with dusty tannins. 

Montepulciano, Montalcino’s neighbor to the east, is another classic Tuscan hill town whose environs produce fine sangiovese. Take a close look, though, the names can be confusing, as can be the tradition of locally assigned names for the local clones of sangiovese – here known as prugnolo gentile. More similar to Chianti, these wines, designated Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, are less likely to be 100% sangiovese. Up to 30% other grapes are allowed. The wines can age but are best enjoyed sooner than later. There are no better producers to introduce you to Vino Nobile than Avignonesi (established in 1974) and Poliziano (founded in 1961). They are leaders in a quality revolution restoring Vino Nobile to the level of Chianti and Brunello.

The 2013 Avignonesi ($29) is 100% estate grown sangiovese. With 12 months in barriques, six months in large Slovenian oak casks and six months in bottle, it is energetic, revealing smoky, earthy, notes with tobacco and leather and solid tannins. The 2013 Poliziano ($28) includes 15% colorino, canaiolo, and merlot. Fermented in stainless steel ranks, then aged 16 months in oak (2/3 in small barriques and 1/3 in large tonneaux), it is dense with bright acidity and plump fruit displaying oak, with hints of spice and tobacco finishing with smooth tannins – arguably a modern style. For an everyday drink, try the 2014 Poliziano Rosso di Montepulciano ($15). It’s from younger vines and with 20% merlot; is fermented in stainless steel; and aged 8 months in oak, mostly large vats, yielding softer, yet juicy cherry and fresh tannin.

 

At the other end of the price/quality scale, if you are willing to spend the money, is the amazing 2012 Poliziano Vino Nobiile di Montepulciano “Asinone” ($60). A limited production, 100% sangiovese wine from Poliziano’s best vineyard (with 50+ year-old vines), it is rich, deep, vibrant and concentrated; firmly structured with spice, leather, tobacco, and herbal notes. Stainless steel fermentation, 18 months in new French oak barriques and tonneaux, and one year in bottle have yielded a really impressive wine.

 

Finally, for good sangiovese value, try a Morellino di Scansano. From the Maremma region on the Tuscan coast. Named for the village of Scansano and the local name for sangiovese, it is not surprising that many Chianti producers have invested in the area. With vineyards located closer to the coast, near sea level and with a milder climate, the wines tend to be fleshier and suppler. See what I mean with the  inviting 2014 Poliziano “Lohsa” ($15). Enhanced with 15% of the local grape ciliegiolo, its ripe fruit is lightly smoky, firm yet lush.

 

NOTE: Featured Image and top photo are courtesy of the Chianti Classico Consortium.

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SPAIN’S LEADING RED GRAPES

Spain has one of the world’s most expansive wine cultures with notable vineyard areas and distinctive native grapes reflecting enormous wine diversity in every region of the country. Arguably the most famous region is Rioja located in the Ebro River Valley in north central Spain.

 

In view of the Sierra de Cantabria Mountains, its vineyards are blanketed with tempranillo vines, Spain’s most planted red grape. The variety typically exhibits cherry fruit and savory notes of cedar, tobacco and leather. With moderate acidity, it still ages amazingly well. Thanks to Tempranillo, Rioja is home to some of Spain’s most internationally known reds. Historically, long aging usually in American oak and blending with other native grapes has balanced its distinctive flavors. In recent years, the time in barrel has been reduced but still is longer than most other wines. As seen with the following wines, we consumers benefit from the wines being ready to drink upon release.

Bodegas El Coto Coto de Imaz Reserva 2010 ($24). Founded in 1970, El Coto is now the largest owner of vineyards in Rioja. Under Rioja’s aging classification Reserva wines require at least three years aging, with at least one of those years in barrel.  This wine is velvety with nice vanilla notes.

 

In sort of a Spanish version of a Bordeaux blend, tempranillo in the 2005 Bodegas Franco-Espanolas “Bordon” Gran Reserva ($24) is complimented with garnacha, mazuelo (carignan in France) and graciano. Not surprising as this historic winery was founded in 1890 by a Bordeaux winemaker fleeing the phylloxera plague in France and his Spanish partners (hence the winery’s name). Generally made only in exceptional vintages, Gran Reserva wines have been regarded as Rioja’s pinnacle. They must have at least two years in barrel and three years in bottle. This one was aged three years in American white oak and three years in bottle. Fully mature, it is gentle yet still full of fruit. It is complex and drinks with richness, as noticeable oak is balanced with dried red fruits and subtle leather and savory notes.

 

Various clones of tempranillo are grown throughout Spain and often given names in the local dialect. Just west of Rioja, the large province Castilla y León is home to the Ribera del Duero and some of Spain’s greatest wines and most expensive wines. Also mostly planted to tempranillo, which here is known as tinto fino or tinta del país,  its vineyards surround the Duero River, which bisects the region.

 

There also are many bottles priced for everyday drinking. One such is the 2015 Bodega Matarromera “Granza” ($15). It is made with organically grown grapes, by a family owned estate winery operating only since 1988 but has established itself as a leader in sustainability. Granza is an elegant and complex wine with ripe black fruit aromas of blackberry and blueberry with violet floral background. Good complexity and long finish, smooth and persistent.

 

Also in the Ebro Valley just to the east of Rioja, wines from Cariñena, particularly those made with garnacha, offer great value and deserve more attention from consumers. Within the mountainous province of Aragón in northeast Spain that shares a border with France, the vineyards of Cariñena date to the Roman occupation of the area possibly as early as the 3rd century BCE. In recent years, more producers have taken better advantage of its limestone-rich soils’ ability to yield juicy garnacha grapes and many producers boast of their old-vine vineyards.

 

Known as grenache (French spelling) in the rest of the world, garnacha, originated in Spain and traveled to southern France in the eighth and ninth centuries. The high altitude, stony soils and arid conditions of Cariñena favor garnacha with a lush, balanced and juicy flavor profile. High toned strawberry, raspberry, and black cherry characteristics make for crowd pleaser wines. Hints of spice and fleshy texture round out its appeal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Introduce yourself to these delightful wines with the 2015 Bodegas San Valero “Castillo Ducay” ($10), from a cooperative of 700 growers created in 1945. This wine is supplemented with 15% tempranillo and cabernet sauvignon. Young and fruit forward, it presents a husky palate but that is followed by sweet tasting fruit. Grandes Vinos y Viñedos (meaning “great wines and vineyards”) is a large joint venture of five cooperatives with vineyards throughout the region. Created in 1997, between them are responsible for one-third of the wine produced in the appellation. Their 2013 Corona de Aragon Special Selection ($15)  is a lush and earthy wine, emblematic of the fine values available from this region.

 

While tempranillo excels in Spain, it has been much less successful when tried in other countries. On the other hand, while garnacha is important but secondary in Spain, other fine examples are produced in southern France, Australia and certain places in California.

 

NOTE: Featured image courtesy us.rioja.com.

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AFFORDABLE WHITE BURGUNDY? YES THEY DO EXIST

I wrote in a recent column on affordable Bordeaux, “(A)s these wines [the top Bordeaux] have reached icon status, their prices have followed into the hundreds and even thousands of dollars – per bottle. Still, it is possible to find good, affordable Bordeaux.” Just change Bordeaux to Burgundy (red or white) and you have the premise of this column.

The most famous (and most expensive) Burgundies (those of the Côte d’Or) have become out of reach for most wine drinkers but it is still possible to find good wines at reasonable prices, if you know where to look. This column centers specifically on white Burgundy. Burgundy is the birthplace of Chardonnay and the wines are 100% chardonnay.

A long time favorite of mine for white Burgundy value is Mâcon-Villages. Located at the southern end of Burgundy, with clay and alluvial soils overlaying limestone, chardonnay flourishes here. Mâcon chardonnay tends to be refreshingly lively and delicate.The large, well-respected négociant Georges Duboeuf offers a typical Mâcon (2015, $20). This unoaked wine presents taut citrus, peach and honeysuckle. The family owned and farmed for five generations Domaine Les Chenevières (2015, $22), also unoaked, is fruitful with citrus, mineral, and a hint of spice.A little to the south, Pouilly-Fuissé likely benefits from more recognition among American consumers, a vestige of its popularity in the last century. Its wines tend to be fuller with deeper fruit than Mâcon-Villages.Duboeuf also produces a Pouilly-Fuissé (2015, $35). Citrus, apple, melon, and pineapple greet, while modest oak yields a light touch of vanilla, to a lush, lightly spicy finish. From another family owned vineyard (with a 200-year history in the region), Emile Berangér (2015, $40) offers a creamy, texture, bright citrus, pear and apricot. Chablis is a little different of a story. When was the last time you had a glass of Chablis? And I don’t mean the generic boxed or “jug” wine of unknown origin. In another century, some California wineries sold their inexpensive wines with flashy names like Burgundy, Rhine, Chianti, Sherry, Port, and yes, Chablis. These wines had nothing to do with the authentic article, simply capitalizing on the famous name.Located about 1½ hours from Paris, Chablis is the most northern of the Burgundy wine-producing regions. Divided into four different appellations (Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru, Chablis Grand Cru), Chablis vineyards spread east and west from the Serein River.

Comprising about 18% of Chablis production, Petit Chablis grapes are grown primarily on younger soils, mostly on the plateaus. These wines are fine everyday values, inviting attention to their refreshing, pure fruit and generally light, lively palate.

Expect aromas and flavors of white flowers mixed with citrusy notes (lemon, grapefruit) and sometimes peach and apricot or pineapple. You might even detect some of the signature mineral and chalky character of Chablis.

 

 

 

 

 

From a family that has farmed the area since 1887 and made wine since 1957, the 2015 Domaine du Colombier ($15) offers brisk lime with a steely note.

The 2015 Sebastien Dampt “Terroir de Milly” ($17) is nicely prickly and a bit spicy. Although this family has been making wine in Chablis for over 150 years, this domaine was founded in 2007 by the newest generation.

The 2014 Jean Marc Brocard ($18) comes from a producer with extensive holdings, mostly farmed organic or biodynamic. This one shows some mineral, to its lively grapefruit, offset with a touch of honey.

Finally, a producer working with a cooperative of nearly 300 growers, the 2014 La Chablisienne “Pas si Petit” ($19) reflects its name (“not so little”) with intense gooseberry, a touch of grapefruit and honey.

 

As a bonus, these wines are versatile accompaniments to food, nicely complimenting egg dishes, a variety of fish, shellfish and raw seafood, picnic foods, even grilled and barbecue foods. And they are ideal as an aperitif.

 

 

 

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CARMÉNÈRE FROM CHILE: THE NEXT HOT RED GRAPE?

Not altogether unlike malbec in Argentina, carménère came to Chile from France (specifically Bordeaux) in the latter 1800s. An offspring of cabernet franc, it now is almost exclusively grown in Chile. Even there, it still lives in the shadow of cabernet sauvignon but is poised to become Chile’s signature grape, again as with malbec in Argentina.

Apparently from the beginning, largely due to poor recordkeeping, what many growers thought to be merlot was actually carménère. In the late 1980’s, Viña Carmen became the first to discover this and it proved true throughout Chile. Many producers ripped out their carménère to replant with real merlot but, luckily for us, many others decided to keep the carménère. By 1996, wineries began to release varietally labeled Carménère.

Benefitting from the long, warm growing seasons in such sites as the Colchagua, Maipo and Maule valleys, this late ripener can produce world-class wines. As with any wine grape, there are regional variations but Carménère wines have evolved over the ensuing 20 years from rustic (a bit rough with too much green character) to over extracted and tannic an more recently to fresh, lush and moderate alcohol.

Most Carménère now (when allowed to ripen properly) supplies intense, rich red and black fruit, some spice (even fresh tobacco, coffee, cocoa, leather), smooth texture, and solid but supple tannins. As with most grapes, some blending – usually with cabernet sauvignon, petite verdot or syrah – benefits the final wine. It helps that the wines are food friendly (particularly poultry, game and rich vegetable dishes).

Quality has reached the point where prices for the best wines can approach $100 a bottle. But, assuming most readers are unfamiliar with the grape, I suggest starting at the introductory level. With one exception, none of the wines below are more than $20 retail and they all deliver a lot of character for the money.

2013 Viña Maipo Gran Devoción ($25). Founded in 1948 in the Maipo Valley, Maipo has been owned by Concha y Toro, the largest Chilean wine company, since 1968. This Carménère/Syrah (15% syrah) offers red fruits, peppery spice and a lush texture.

2012 Viña Maquis ($20). This 100 year-old, family owned winery uses estate grown fruit, including 15% cabernet franc, to craft a wine with aromas of red plum and boysenberry and a light woody note, with good depth, a fresh mouthfeel, and hint of anise.

2013 Viña Ventisquero “Grey” ($20). Barely twenty years old, Ventisquero’s “Grey” portfolio features a single block of vines, in this case from the Trinidad Vineyard in Maipo Valley. You’ll find strong tobacco, dark berries, savory notes and fresh tannins.

2013 Casa Silva Cuvee Colchagua ($15). Another family owned winery, this one dates to 1892 with connections to the valley’s first European settlers. Expect straightforward, jammy black fruit, peppery and woody notes with cocoa and a soft texture.

 

2014 Viña Santa Carolina Cachapoal Estate Reserva ($11). Founded in 1875, basically in what now is the city of Santiago, this is Chile’s third largest wine producer. From the La Rinconada Estate in Rapel Valley, there is a lot of wine here – succulent blackberry and plum, oaky and spicy, with mild tannins – from not much money.

2011 Viña Carmen Gran Reserva Apalta Vineyard ($16). Founded in 1850, this is one of the oldest names in Chilean wine and now one of the country’s largest wineries. Enjoy aromas of toasty oak and spicy herbs with fresh berries and soft texture. Blended with 4% carignan and 2% tempranillo.

2013 Criterion Collection Reserva ($16). From a négociant who buys wines from several countries, this one has a nice balance of berries, hints of brown spices and a savory notes. A good introduction the grape.

Looking for a different wine experience? With its distinctive flavor profile, food friendliness and generally reasonable prices Carménère from Chile deserves more consumer attention. It certainly has mine.