The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

In the 1990’s, the popularity of California Merlot wines grew exponentially among American consumers. According to The Wine Institute, just over 15,000 tons were crushed in 1990, while over 292,000 were crushed in 2004! American consumers were drawn to the easy drinking approachable style producers were peddling.

Then, “Sideways” (the movie) happened. With this Pinot Noir-centric movie’s seeming disparaging of Merlot, suddenly the wines became suspect, even though some of the great wines of the world are made predominately of merlot. But reports of Merlot’s death were exaggerated. While production actually is down a bit, Merlot remains popular.

Luckily, there are plenty of quality minded producers that showcase Merlot’s best attributes. One of those is Chris Carpenter, longtime winemaker at the highly regarded, Kendall-Jackson owned wineries Cardinale and Lokoya.

“If farmed right, and treated similar to cabernet sauvignon, merlot can be great, just as it is in other countries [like France and Italy].” Carpenter proves this by making two amazing wines in my tasting: the 2013 Mt. Brave ($75) and 2013 La Jota ($85).

These are serious, complex, full-bodied wines that show how great Merlot can be. Mt. Brave is from vineyards on Mt. Veeder on the western side of the valley. LaJota is from Howell Mountain on the eastern side. Importantly, both mountain vineyards are located above the fog line, meaning moderate temperatures and more sunshine. The Mt. Brave is deep black cherry fruit, chocolate, cocoa, spice, a plump, fleshy. The La Jota dense, loads of mocha, lead-pencil, black cherry and plum spices, full-bodied, opulent, mouth-coating

Of course, there have always been quality minded Merlot producers that persisted even during that period when many wineries treated Merlot like the new White Zinfandel, as Carpenter described it.

Matanzas Creek has been a standard bearer for the grape since its first vintage in 1977. The exquisite 2012 Jackson Park Vineyard ($60), from estate vineyards near the winery in Bennett Valley, is the premier offering from their Merlot portfolio. It shows abundant red fruit, complex mineral, cedar and savory qualities, and power.

Duckhorn also has been a Merlot pioneer, having released its first Merlot in 1978 and since establishing a reputation as one of California’s best Merlot producers. They now make several single vineyard wines but the Napa Valley is a fine introduction to the collection. The 2013 ($54) is solid, focused, softer, lush, but some crispness, dark cherry and blueberry, spice, sleek, cherry, licorice

The next tier of wines I found worth recommending, include several less expensive but still fine samples from the Napa Valley. The 2012 Swanson Napa Valley ($38), from a winery that dedicated itself to Merlot from its first vintage in 1987, shows skillful blending of red and black fruits, cedar and herbal notes, and power with a lush texture. Others worth seeking out:

• 2013 Freemark Abbey ($34) enticing with abundant, lush fruit
• 2012 Grgich Hills ($43) well structured with concentrated, ripe fruit
• 2013 Peju ($38) sweet fruit with defined tannins

If you are looking for even more affordable Merlots, you won’t sacrifice much quality with these reliable producers. Markham, for instance, has been a leader in producing user-friendly, fruit-forward Merlots. The 2014 Markham Napa Valley ($25) is silky and inviting with soft mouthfeel and toasty, mocha, herbal back notes. Other satisfying choices:

• 2012 Clos du Val Napa Valley ($28) full-bodied, velvety
• 2012 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($28) crisp, savory
• 2013 Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve ($26) fruitful, dense
• 2014 Decoy Sonoma Valley ($25) creamy, sleek
• 2014 Kunde Sonoma Valley ($22) fresh, lively

Finally, a handful of good, easy on your pocketbook wines ideal for everyday and holiday parties. At $15, the 2014 Liberty School Central Coast, 2014 J. Lohr “Los Osos” ($15), and 2013 Murphy Goode California are easy drinking, yet flavorful.

Culinary cinema is somewhat of a niche genre, especially documentaries. Everybody has to eat and drink to survive; many of us love to eat and drink regardless. But these are usually taken for granted in films. Still, there has been a growing appreciation in recent years of chefs, sommeliers, and the importance of food quality and how it is produced. And that has been reflected in a growing number food and wine related documentaries.

Credit goes to two Colorado film festivals that have recognized the importance of food in our culture and reflected that in their lineups. The Flatirons Food Film Fest, as its name suggests, is focused solely on food and drink.

The feature film of the festival (this was its fourth year) was the documentary City of Gold about Los Angeles Times restaurant critic and Pulitzer Prize–winning food writer Jonathan Gold. Being a wine writer, though, I was there to screen SOMM: Into the Bottle. The film is a follow-up to SOMM, the 2012 documentary that followed four sommeliers attempting to pass the prestigious Master Sommelier exam.

As Bobby Stuckey, co-owner of Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder and himself a Master Sommelier put it me, “Both films are great as they demystify this craft [serving wine] especially for people who may have little idea what sommeliers do.” Somm: Into The Bottle travels around the world to answer the question, as the promo material puts it: “What is wine and why does it matter?” Or, as Stuckey told me, “It is a natural progression from SOMM showing how wine is served to giving the back story.”

The film features several well-known winemakers and sommeliers to narrate ten segments exploring a different aspect of wine. Each segment uses the opening of a rare, celebrated bottle as device to delve into the history and appeal of each wine and its origins – as if to illustrate Professor Steven Shapin’s insight that every wine has a story to tell and sommeliers are storytellers.

Especially for those of us who pay close attention to the wine world, it was fascinating to get an inside look through the words of respected winemakers and master sommeliers. With historic wineries and famous vineyards as backdrops, the film moves through topics such as winemaking, vintage differences, how wine ages, differences between what are called “New World” and “Old World” wines, what affects the cost of wine and the influence of wine critics and point scores.

Even though one could nit pick certain aspects of the film, ultimately the excellent cinematography and the stories that are as engaging as they are educational making the film a very worthwhile experience.

With 25 years as a wine professional in the restaurant industry, Mr. Stuckey emphasized to me the importance of service and hospitality (in addition to great food and wine). In a way, this was also a message of Jeremiah Tower: The Last Magnificent, presented at the 39^th Denver Film Festival organized by The Denver Film Society

This year, the festival initiated a “Culinary Cinema” series, which I hope will be a long-running program and expanded. Jeremiah Tower: The Last Magnificent probes the life of the celebrated and often mysterious chef, one of America’s first celebrity chefs.

The film suggests Tower’s earlier years raised by wealthy but neglectful parents caused him to turn to cooking and eating for emotional comfort. It traces his nevertheless unlikely culinary career after he graduated from Harvard. Instead of pursuing a career in architecture, he got hired in 1972 at Alice Waters’ then-unknown Chez Panisse in Berkeley. Within a year he was in charge of the kitchen and soon became a co-owner. Tower left Chez Panisse in 1978 but had established himself as a culinary pacemaker.

In 1984, he displayed his visionary nature opening Stars restaurant in a neighborhood that although near San Francisco’s Civic Center was not considered a desirable destination. Under Tower’s tutelage Stars became a highly sought after destination as it popularized “California Cuisine” or what is often called “New American” cooking.

The film makes the case that much of Stars’ popularity was owing to Tower’s personality and abilities as a host. His reputation grew with the success of the restaurant. And the success of the restaurant grew with his reputation.

But it wasn’t to last. By the late 1990’s, he had built (along with investors) a booming restaurant empire. But that empire crumbled and Tower effectively disappeared from the culinary world. He eventually turned up in Mexico but had largely been forgotten, even though he had hosted a PBS series and written well-received cookbooks.

Ultimately, Jeremiah Tower: The Last Magnificent seems to be saying – through interviews from well-known chef personalities including Martha Stewart, Mario Batali, Jonathan Waxman and Anthony Bourdain and charting Tower’s legacy – that the long-term success of Stars is largely beside the point. Tower’s innovations – emphasis on fresh, local food, an open kitchen, and creating a welcoming atmosphere and with an infectious energy – are what have had lasting influence in the culinary world.

From what I read in industry publications, Australian wine has been struggling in export markets recently, including the U.S., at least compared to the days when easy drinking volume brands dominated. Regardless, there has continued to be plenty of quality wines available for those who care to look for them. I sampled a few recently and found the wines below, especially the Yangarra, to be solid reds delivering fine value for the money. They emphasize quality over quantity.

• 2014 Insurrection Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon ($17). From cool climate regions of South Eastern Australia (Barossa Valley, Langhorne Creek and Padthaway), its 15% alcohol is consistent with its bold red fruits, mocha and powerful impact.
• 2013 Criterion Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva ($17). This negociant sources wines from select regions around the globe. This one comes from Coonawarra in South Australia, a region coveted for fine Cabs, and shows nice plum with a hint of eucalyptus.
• 2014 Robert Oatley Cabernet Sauvignon Signature Series ($23). Regarded as one of Australia’s top winemakers for forty years, Oatley’s team uses fruit from the Western Australian region of Margaret River. It offers classic cab notes of dark berries and tobacco.
• 2013 Yangarra Grenache Old Vine ($32). I’ve enjoyed several previous vintages of this wine and the 2013 does not disappoint. From a biodynamically farmed vineyard in McLaren Vale, South Australia, these old vines have yielded a full, rich wine with intense dark berry fruit and intriguing meaty qualities.

By comparison, New Zealand wine has gained in popularity in the U.S. in recent years. Industry data shows the U.S. is now New Zealand’s biggest export market by volume. Admittedly, this is mostly on the strength of its unique style of Sauvignon Blanc, which now ranks second in the U.S. market among imported varietals by origin. Here’s a couple of white’s worth seeking out.

• 2015 Giesen Sauvignon Blanc ($15). From Marlborough on the South Island this family owned winery has fashioned a wine that displays light touches of the characteristic green fruits (gooseberry and lime) with a crisp, tart finish.
• 2014 Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay ($17). Illustrating the popularity of New Zealand wine, Impact Databank lists Kim Crawford as the fourth largest wine brand priced above $14 in the U.S. This wine from the South Island’s East Coast expresses its tropical and citrus fruits unencumbered by oak, yet still drinks with enjoyable nutty tones and creamy texture.

New Zealand also has gained much attention rightly for Pinot Noir. Especially Pinot Noir from the South Island region of Central Otago, these wines tend to earthiness and harmonious purity of fruit.

• The 2012 Loveblock Pinot Noir ($34) is a good example of this. This winery is the labor of love of Erica and Kim Crawford (yes, that Kim Crawford). The wine’s estate grown grapes (their “Someone’s Darling Vineyard”) benefit from the location in a warmer area of Central Otago, typically a cooler growing region. It’s bright red fruit aromas are accented with a touch of baking spice and drink crisply with good concentration.
• The 2013 Trinity Hill Pinot Noir ($17) from the North Island region of Hawkes Bay, shows New Zealand can produce quality value priced Pinot, this time from Hawkes Bay this one shows New Zealand can produce quality value priced Pinot, this time from Hawkes Bay.

Trinity Hill’s 2013 ”The Trinity” ($17) also is evidence that other New Zealand reds can provide good value. A blend of 69% merlot, 15% tempranillo, 8% malbec, 4% touriga, and 4% cabernet franc, it has varietal notes of strawberry and cranberry with light spice and a slightly bitter finish. It is pleasantly earthy and fresh with a slightly bitter finish.

South Africa is the other Southern Hemisphere nation coming on strong in the wine world. Although grapes have been grown there for 366 years, it is really only within the last 25 that South African wine has emerged in international markets. Among the red wines, pinotage is South Africa’s most unique grape, while cabernet sauvignon is the most planted. But whites also are worth attention.  Here are just a few examples.

• I was intrigued with the 2014 Bellingham “Pinopasso” ($19), pinotage made in the manner of appassimento (drying the grapes to concentrate the juice) to honor the Italian prisoners of war who had been taken to South Africa during World War II and worked at Bellingham. From the Insignia Series, this is delivers assertive cherry and wild berry fruit with hints of cocoa.
• 2012 Kanonkop “Kadette” ($15). This entry-level blend of 54% pinotage, 29% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, and 7% cabernet franc is a lot of wine for not a lot of money. From Stellenbosch, the center the South African wine industry, it is a bit rustic but has juicy dark fruits, hints of black olive and tea with a crisp finish
• Another blend from Stellenbosch, the 2013 Mulderbosch Faithful Hound ($25) is a Bordeaux-style mix of 39% cabernet sauvignon, 22% cabernet franc, 16% merlot, 14% malbec, and 9% petit verdot. It drinks full with solid structure and pleasing currant and blackberry offset by notes of tobacco
• Finally, a solid white wine choice is the 2013 Groot Constantia Sauvignon Blanc “Landgoed” ($20). From the first wine estate established at the Cape of Good Hope (1685), this is clean and fresh with green fruits and green herbs and is slightly spicy.

As a settler that came to America from humble origins in Europe (Croatia and southern Italy) and flourished, zinfandel is the quintessentially American grape.

Zinfandel is particularly successful in California. The exuberance and zesty raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit in these typically bold wines often is accented with spice and a little wild character. They also are great values. Even as prices have crept up in recent years, most of the best wines are under $40. Most of the wines in this column are under $25.

While there are several locations in California where the grape does well, Sonoma County offers particularly hospitable climes. For instance, thirty-year-old Murphy-Goode, which offers a fine lineup notable for whimsical gaming related names, produced the 2013 “Liar’s Dice” ($21), a welcoming blend of Dry Creek Valley and Alexander Valley fruit offering jammy raspberry and black cherry with just a touch of spice.

The Kunde family winemaking history in Sonoma Valley goes back to 1904. Their 2014 ($22) from estate grown, sustainably farmed fruit serves up plump blackberry and baking spice with a supple texture.

In the Dry Creek Valley, the Dry Creek Vineyard has pioneered the grape since its founding in 1972. The 2014 “Heritage Vines” ($22) is the winery’s successful attempt to combine old vine character (rustic, concentrated) with young vine qualities (fresh, elegant). “Heritage” refers to young vines grafted from 100-year-old budwood. This one is toasty, with intense fruit.

With the same winemaker since 1979, Rodney Strong has become a premier Sonoma winery. The 2013 “Knotty Vines” ($25) deftly blends of old vine Russian River Valley, Dry Creek Valley and Alexander Valley fruit. Its blue and black fruits come with anise and woodsy and spicy notes in a solid but inviting frame.

Decoy is the entry level brand in the Duckhorn portfolio of wines. Their 2014 ($25) blends fruit from various Sonoma County sources. It is well-balanced, elegant yet juicy with intense fruit, fresh anise and wood notes.

Although Ridge Vineyards actually is located in the Santa Cruz Mountains near San Jose, Paul Draper (who just retired from Ridge after over fifty years at the helm) has been a leading proponent of Sonoma County Zinfandel. During that time, Ridge has specialized in vineyard specific Zinfandels from all over the state but mostly Sonoma.

The 2014 Geyserville ($40) from Alexander Valley actually is what is called a “field blend” (including petite sirah, carignane, and mataro). So, the resulting wine is only 60% zinfandel. It is full flavored and focused but elegant, with a touch of white pepper. Ridge has been making a wine from this 130-year-old vineyard since 1966. The 2014 Ridge East Bench ($30) is quintessential Dry Creek Valley as it bursts with jammy, spicy cherry fruit accented with baking spices. Unusual for Ridge, it is 100% zinfandel. It is a worthy addition to the iconic Lytton Springs Vineyard wine, also from Dry Creek Valley.

Of course, I like Zinfandel all year long, especially with spicy foods. But it really shines with the barbecue and grilled foods particularly enjoyable this time of year.

NOTE: Featured Image Photo Courtesy of Dry  Creek Vineyard

For decades in California, pinot noir frustrated even the best winemakers. With Burgundy as the benchmark and Oregon making great strides, in California it became known as the “heartbreak grape.” In recent years, though, California has begun to figure out pinot noir. Producers are employing better clones and winemaking matched to more appropriate sites. Today, there are numerous appellations along a 500-mile stretch from Mendocino to Santa Barbara sourcing fine Pinot Noir.

The best sites are characterized by proximity to the Pacific Ocean and are impacted by the associated cooling breezes (and sometimes fog) leading to long growing seasons that encourage optimum ripeness with powerful, fresh acidity, yet notable elegance. I tasted over 60 wines for this report. Most were good but many did not, in my opinion, deliver a level of quality to justify the increasingly high prices. The ones in this report do.

Remote, rugged and sparsely populated, the Anderson Valley of Mendocino County is an unexpected source of fine Pinot Noir. The wines typically are concentrated, with noticeable tannin structure but deftly balance power and elegance as demonstrated by the 2013 FEL Savoy Vineyard ($70), which also reveals varietal notes of red fruits and forest notes. Nearly as good at half the price, the 2014 Jackson Estate ($32) delivers its abundance with grace and poise. Two other wines worth seeking out are the rich 2013 Goldeneye ($55) and the inviting 2013 La Crema Anderson Valley ($50).

Having supplied the most wines in my tasting, I found many good choices from Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley. My favorites were the robust and deep but bright 2013 Patz & Hall Chenoweth Ranch ($60), the pure, complex and expansive 2012 Donum Estate Grown ($72), and the fruitful, luscious 2014 Sonoma-Loeb Dutton Ranch ($39). Not far behind was the savory, luxurious 2013 Davis Bynum Dijon Clone 777 ($55) and the juicy, fresh 2013 Patz & Hall Burnside ($75).

The cool Sonoma Coast is California’s newest “hot” region for Pinot Noir. Disputes about the overly large boundaries aside, producers have found many ideal sites that have garnered high accolades. Patz & Hall dominated my tasting with three fine choices led by the 2014 Jenkins Ranch ($60) – with its concentrated fruit, full body and strong earty, savory notes – followed by the similarly intense 2014 Gap’s Crown Vineyard ($70) and the flavorful, well structured 2014 Sonoma Coast ($48). Not far behind were three wines from MacRostie: 2013 Wildcat Mountain ($50) for its pure fruit and spicy herbs, 2013 Goldrock Ridge ($56) with its supple, savory nature, and 2013 Sonoma Coast ($34) for vibrant fruit and anise tinged character.

Straddling the southern end of Sonoma and Napa counties, Carneros is cooled by winds from the San Pablo Bay. The two wines from Carneros in my tasting both were outstanding. The 2012 Donum Estate Grown ($72) delivered an enticing complex of focused fruit, layered earth, spice and herb notes all riding on a luxurious frame. The 2014 Patz & Hall Hyde Vineyard ($75) was deeply fruited, firmly textured, and attractively earthy.

In California’s Central Coast, notably Monterey, San Louis Obispo and Santa Barbara counties, as with the North Coast, most of the best sites are characterized by proximity to the Pacific Ocean and are impacted by the associated cooling breezes (and sometimes fog) leading to long growing seasons that encourage optimum ripeness with powerful, fresh acidity, yet notable elegance.

In the northern part of Monterey County, certain microclimates enjoy a balance between the cold winds coming off the Monterey Bay and the heat of the Salinas Valley inland. The south facing slopes of the Santa Lucia Highlands is such a place and the wines here have rocketed to acclaim in the last decade, though they are generally small production. The 2013 Patz & Hall Pisoni Vineyard ($90) was the one such wine in my tasting and it shined with jammy dark fruit, lavish texture and lasting impact.

Being closer to the ocean and those strong, cold winds, there are fewer such prime sites in Monterey’s Carmel Valley. Albatross Ridge has found a really good one with coveted limestone soils only seven miles from the ocean. The extreme conditions, including steep slopes, yield sophisticated expressions of Pinot Noir, such as the 2013 Estate Reserve ($55) with its bright fruit and mineral qualities.

Further south in San Louis Obispo County, cool, damp coastal breezes and heavy fog also benefit the small regions of Edna Valley and the adjacent Arroyo Grande Valley. A handful of small, artisan producers have shown the promise of these relatively small growing areas. The 2014 Talley Stone Corral Vineyard ($58) is a fine representative of Edna Valley, marked by textural lushness and beautiful balance. Talley also provided two outstanding wines from Arroyo Grande in my tasting: the amazingly intense, vibrant, deeply flavored 2014 Rincon Vineyard ($64) and the rich, beautifully pure, complexly layered 2014 Rosemary’s Vineyard ($75).

Finally, a few miles farther south in Santa Barbara County (an hour and a half north of Los Angeles) two regions rival Sonoma as California’s best source of Pinot Noir. Typically, Santa Maria Valley wines, such as the 2013 Presqu’ile ($42) tend toward elegance, bright fruit and precise structure, while the 2013 Presqu’ile Vineyard ($60) is fuller bodied with more spice and earth and a silky texture. Also consider the 2013 Dierberg Vineyard ($44), it’s silky, persistent, mineral tinged and generous.

The Santa Rita Hills sub-appellation within the Santa Ynez Valley is distinctive as it runs in a west-to-east direction that efficiently funnels cooling fog and winds from the Pacific Ocean. From Sanford, the pioneering winery of the region, the 2012 Santa Rita Hills ($42) has nice red fruit with pleasant earthy and smoky notes. More recently, Sea Smoke has emerged as a benchmark winery of the area. Its 2013 Southing ($60) offers loads of fruit and lively structure, yet drinks approachable with intriguing savory notes.

LOOK TO GERMANY AND FRANCE FOR WHITE WINE ALTERNATIVES

For the last installment in my series of columns on white wines to cool off this hot summer, I am excited to be reviewing wine from Germany and Alsace. These regions source my favorite white grapes, specifically riesling and gewürztraminer, but also pinot gris and pinot blanc.

From my recent tasting, I present several good entry-level wines that are notable for their fresh fruit, mineral or spice character, and refreshing acidity, and for being mostly dry and low alcohol.

The Mosel River Valley is the most picturesque and romantic of all German wine regions and the Fritz Haag winery and vineyards is located in Brauneberg in the heart of the central Mosel, considered by many the prime source for great German Riesling.

These 2014 Rieslings are fantastic values at $22. The “Trocken” is dry as its name indicates, with bright green apple and peach and a sense of its reddish slate origins. The Mosel “Qualitatswein” reveals hints of sweetness with fresh peach, citrus and fine slate. Both are rather intense but drink with finesse.

Great wine also is made along the Ruwer River, a tributary of the Mosel, south of the city of Trier. Here, the von Schubert family has produced great wines under the name Maximin Grünhauser since the late nineteenth century.

The 2014 estate Rieslings also are fine values at $22 and are light and elegant but full flavored. The “Feinherb” is juicy and a smooth texture mineral grip spice honey and apple off dry savory and complex. The “Trocken” is bright and fresh, solidly structured with steely, crisp apple and pear savory notes.

In the nearby Rheingau, the Robert Weil estate’s Wilhelm Weil farms the family’s vineyards, which have been around since 1875, organically. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, the 2014 Rieslings are great values delivering aromatic, intense and bracing drinks at just $20.

The “Trocken” offers abundant pome, citrus, pear and stone fruits, with power and a sense of richness, accented with steely and stony impressions, finishing with a touch of spice. The “Tradition” is slightly sweet, with tangy, brisk lemon and peach, and a steely finish.

Robert Weil also supplied the two exceptions to this column’s mostly dry criteria. They are more expensive but their extra ripeness and intensity justify the splurge. The 2013 Tradition Kabinett ($30) wraps stony, mineral qualities around slightly sweet, luscious peach, lemon and apple. The 2013 Tradition Spätlese ($40) impresses with its aromatics and lively but creamy texture, while presenting deep, honeyed fruit.

The Pfalz is Germany’s second largest wine region and a leading proponent of dry Riesling. Villa Wolf, an estate dating to 1750s, has produced two fine 2014 wines for a modest $12. The Dry Riesling sports steely green citrus and the (surprise) Gewürztraminer offers a lovely peach and citrus with a gulpable freshness.

Just across the border between Germany and France, the Alsace region also is revered for its Rieslings. Typically the wines carry more weight but the aromatics and acidity are just as bracing. The 2013 Hugel Riesling “Hugel” ($22) is a fine example. Founded in 1639, this still family owned company rich and ripe white fruits dry citrus fruit

But Alsace excels with other grapes, too. Like the very aromatic 2013 Trimbach Gewürztraminer ($24) and its bright fruit, full-body, concentrated orange and spicy finish. I also enjoyed the 2013 Gustave Lorentz Pinot Blanc Reserve ($20) for its citrusy freshness and the 2014 Cave de Cleebourg Pinot Gris “Prestige” ($15), a fairly full-bodied wine with nice pear and peach and a rich texture.

Look to Germany and France for White Wine Alternatives

For the last installment in my series of columns on white wines to cool off this hot summer, I am excited to be reviewing wine from Germany and Alsace. These regions source my favorite white grapes, specifically riesling and gewürztraminer, but also pinot gris and pinot blanc.

From my recent tasting, I present several good entry-level wines that are notable for their fresh fruit, mineral or spice character, and refreshing acidity.

2014 Maximin Grünhauser

Carl von Schubert produces beautifully light and clear, highly delicate Rieslings from the Ruwer. Riesling cannot taste finer than here. finesse and transparency

Riesling Feinherb, ($22)

[87] pure and elegant and balanced with juicy fruit and a smooth texture but also a nice mineral grip and salinity in the long finish.

(90) exotic spice here with honey and apple off dry and juicy but also savory and complex, finishing on a lingering, slightly bitter note.

Riesling Trocken ($22)

[87] bright and fresh light, round and dry elegance and finesse, and nicely structured finish with nutty flavors. The delicate acidity is stimulatingly fresh.

(85) Ripe apple and baked pear are matched to savory notes

(88) earthy and bitter minerals lend a savory tone to the apple and lime- dry crisp and sheer but finishes bold with a steely, cool resonance

2014 Fritz Haag

bright, clear, elegant and finesse stunning, refined and terroir-driven wines

For Fritz Haag in nearby Brauneberg in the heart of the central Mosel, the tradition goes back to 1605. Also an accomplished producer of sweet Rieslings, even the entry level 2013 Trocken ($22) transmits a sense of the reddish slate soil under pinning the bright green apple and honeydew.

Riesling Trocken ($22)

[88] clear and intense bouquet of ripe apples intermixed with lovely slate aromas Full-bodied, round and elegant, juicy Riesling with tropical fruit and ripe peach aromas; well balanced Bottled stunningly intense and aromatic

(87) Notes of honeysuckle and almond to the citrus and ripe apple and pineapple crisp acidity.

(91) Cool, mineral elegance and pristine tangerine and quince zesty, dry and light bodied with a lemony finish

Mosel Riesling QbA ($22)

[90] lovely, clear, bright, fresh and delicate with nice white stone fruit and fine slate, round, light and fruity, frisky and filigreed Riesling of great finesse.

(86) Peach and ripe apple, with firm acidity and notes of dried herb. Finishes with hints of pineapple and sage.

(91) a touch of honey-lemon sweetness zesty, citrus, lip smackingly fresh, green herb and lime notes

Robert Weil Rheingau

Wilhelm Weil, organic farming

Across the Rhein River north of Rheinhssen, the Rheingau, is one of the most distinguished wine regions of the world. And while that reputation has been built on the sweeter wines, today many fine trocken are being made – like these two from Robert Weil. The 2013 Riesling Trocken ($20) delivers a lot of wine for the money. Following pure, intense aromas of nectarine and gooseberry, an initial steely, minerally impression in the mouth is joined by juicy and a touch spicy flavors.

2014 Trocken ($20)

[87] clear, precise and aromatic white peach, intense and racy, with power and juiciness, mineral

(88) Juicy and fresh, citrus, pear and apple, hints of pepper and dried sage show on the crisp, minerally finish

(90) Steel and stones, lemon and grapefruit, medium bodied but texturally quite rich,

2014 Tradition ($20)

[90] a lovely, clear, precise and aromatic, white fruits, piquant and racy, slightly sweet great finesse and elegance, low alcohol is below 11%

(89) a bit tight and closed off, brisk off-dry fresh, tart lemon and peach flavors, mineral with a honed, steely finish

2013 Tradition Kabinett ($30)

[89+] 2014 intense and stony, quite ripe and sweet, concentrated, almost Spätlese and quite rich

(89) Well-structured, lemon and apple, accented by hints of cream, crisp and pure, with a zesty finish

(92) Whispers of saffron and pollen lend mineral intensity to succulent yellow peach and cherry notes juicy revitalizing semisweet

2013 Tradition Spätlese ($40)

[87+] 2014 a selection from the three hillside crus and the Wasseros; intense fruit and slate, round and sweet, elegant, very accessible with a nice grip and salinity in the finish

(91) Direct and fresh, with delicate apple and lemon, hints of honey and allspice, lively and elegant, creamy texture.

(94) profoundly aromatic, sprightly-sweet, opulent floral perfume of rose petals and orange blossoms, remarkably elegant, crisp honeydew and peach flavors zesty

2014 Villa Wolf Pfalz

Just to the south of the Rheinhessen, the Pfalz is Germany’s second largest wine region. Growers here have been proclaiming the greatness of dry Riesling more than any other German region. In my tasting, the Pfalz was represented by Villa Wolf, an estate dating to 1753.

Riesling Dry ($12)

(86) relaxed, apple and pear, zesty spiciness, mint and citrus notes

(87) savory, nutty, slightly smoky fresh tangerine crisp, cutting acidity elegance

2014 Gewürztraminer ($12)

(88) invigorating freshness not complex or concentrated, floral exuberance and crisp peach and pear, quaffable

Alsace

Alsace wines have the weight, aromatics and acidity to accentuate the unique character of just about any fermented food.

Another fun choice would be crisp, dry Alsatian versions of these grapes, like these from Hugel, a family owned company since 1639! The 2013 Riesling ($12) is aromatic and refreshing; the 2012 Pinot Gris “Classic” ($24) is a special selection revealing impressive weight and enticing nutty qualities. Also, check out the spicy lychee of the 2012 Gewürztraminer ($24) and the 2014 “Gentil,” a delicate but aromatic blend.

2013 Hugel Riesling “Hugel” ($22)

pleasing sourness of bracing acidity but fairly rich and ripe

[86] white fruits some nutty lively, bright and clean Pure, racy, bone dry and slightly salty good structure, and grip and refreshing citris fruit

(90) fresh, harmonious, floral overtone mix of nectarine, chalky mineral, orange and pink grapefruit zesty

2013 Trimbach Gewürztraminer ($24)

very aromatic, full-bodied and slightly spicy

[89] bright fruit quite spicy, herbal and floral, lemon, elegant, piquant and mineral mouthwatering salinity and fruitiness, really ripe, fresh and dry well balanced

(90) Linear and finely knit, fresh acidity cantaloupe, nectarine and ginger, minerality in the finish, elegant.

(91) creamy notes of rose, orange and mandarin oil, concentrated, punchy, focuses on taste rather than aroma, rounded and rich, immensely concentrated, structured.

2013 Gustave Lorentz Pinot Blanc Reserve ($20) <NR>

fresh, citrusy unoaked

(84) 2011 Snappy acidity, smoke, melon, kumquat and slivered almond

2014 Cave de Cleebourg Pinot Gris Prestige ($15)

full-bodied, slightly smoky, richly-textured with heady honey and stone fruit aromas

(88) Fresh and creamy, snappy acidity floral, peach, ground spice and smoke notes Tangy citrus and salted almond accents

(84) 2013 soft, rounded and smooth, fresh acidity, ripe pear and quince

2015 Costieres de Pomerols Picpoul de Pinet HB ($10) co-op of 450 growers

[89] lots of salty minerality, bitter citrus and hints of rose petal, juicy, medium-bodied clean and refreshing

(87) 2014 supple texture, apple, citrus and peach almond, fig and savory, spicy finish

<88> fresh and lively, ruby-red grapefruit and zesty acidity

Domaine Collin Cremant de Limoux Brut Cuvee Tradition ($16) <NR>