The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

THINK PINK FOR SUMMER’S WINE DRINK

DRY pink wines finally seem to be gaining appreciation in this country. Of course, sweet “blush” wines have been popular for years. Europeans, on the other hand, have known for a long time the joy of drinking a good dry pink wine. The most common term is Rosé (French) but you may also see Rosato (Italian) and Rosado (Spanish).

Expect bright, fresh fruit aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry, raspberry, or cranberry. Some even exhibit a red wine level of intensity, body and complexity. But the best always display fresh fruit aromas and flavors that approximate the profile of their red siblings but drink more like white wines. Because of their vibrant freshness and lively fruit, pinks are almost always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available.

There are essentially three ways to make a pink wine. The most common method is to crush red grapes and leave the juice in contact with the grape skins (the source of a wine’s color) only briefly. The second technique is a process called “saignée” in which a certain amount of juice is “bled off” shortly after red grapes are crushed. The third approach involves blending white and red wines to the desired effect.

Most wine producing countries now have gotten into the act with a wide variety of grapes.

Among Rosé devotees, France is the prime source. There is a dizzying array of French Rosés from all over the country but most notably the south – places like Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, Bandol, Cotes-du-Rhone, and Tavel. Rosé from Provence in particular offers consistent quality at reasonable prices.

Rosé from Provence in particular offers consistent quality at reasonable prices. Generally blends dominated by grenache supplemented with syrah and cinsault, my favorite in the tasting was the organically grown 2015 Chateau Sainte Marguerite “Symphony” (40% grenache, 40% cinsault, 20% syrah, $29), followed closely by the 2015 Domaine Saint Aix “AIX” (60% grenache, 20% syrah 15% cinsault, 5% carignan, $19) and 2015 Maison Belle Claire (55% grenache, 25% syrah, 20% cinsault, $15).

Other good choices from France included the 2015 Chateau d’Oupia Minervois (syrah, grenache and cinsault, $17) and the 2014 Saget La Perrière “La Petite Perrière” Loire Valley (100% pinot noir, $14). The best of the bunch, though, was the 2013 Domaine de la Mordoree “la Dame Rousse” (50% grenache, 30% syrah, 20% cinsault, $20). This Cotes-du-Rhone offered focused fruit, balanced with unique richness and complexity.

France’s neighbors also are reliable sources. Here’s a line up of my favorites:

Spain:

2015 Hacienda de Arinzano Rosé de Tempranillo ($20): fresh cherry and raspberry

2015 Vina Real Rioja (85% viura [white grape] and 15% tempranillo, $14): citrus and peach

2015 Cune (CVNE) (100% tempranillo, $14): fresh and tasty strawberry and raspberry

Italy:

2015 Falesco “Vitano” Umbria (30% sangiovese, 30% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 10% aleatico, $12): juicy strawberries, vibrant cranberry

Portugal:

2015 La Defesa (70% aragonez [Portuguese version of tempranillo] and 30% syrah, $13): raspberries, cherry, watermelon, spice and earth

Other good choices (from places you might not have expected!):

2014 Galil Mountain Galilee (a unique combination of 74% sangiovese, 23% pinot noir, 3% grenache, $12): tangy cherry and raspberry, creamy texture

2015 Villa Wolf Pinot Noir Rosé (from Germany’s Pfalz, $12): spicy cherry and raspberry

2015 Los Vascos Chile (90% cabernet sauvignon, 10% syrah, $14): lovely, creamy cherry, nicely tart

I also have been pleased to find improved quality from California and Oregon:

More good Grenache Rosé:

2015 J. Lohr “Gesture” Paso Robles ($18): juicy, hint of sweetness

2015 Halter Ranch Paso Robles (67% Grenache, 22% Picpoul Blanc, 8% Mourvèdre and 3% Syrah, $21): zesty, tangy raspberry

For you Pinot Noir lovers, these are really satisfying :

2015 Ponzi Willamette Valley ($22): pure, lightly tart cherry and spice

2015 Stoller Dundee Hills ($25): crisp pomegranate and light spice

2015 Willamette Valley Vineyards ($24): earthy, intense spicy cherry

2015 Martin Ray Russian River Valley ($20) savory, creamy plum

2015 Cuvaison “Vin Gris” Napa Valley ($20): firm strawberry and citrus

2014 Balletto Russian River Valley ($18): delightfully fresh citrus and strwberry

And the zinfandel-based 2015 Head High (49% zinfandel, 44% syrah, 4% grenache, 3% tempranillo, $18) offers spicy red berries with a surprisingly creamy texture.

Finally, you can’t beat some fine bubbly during the hot weather:

Ferrari Rosé Trento (pinot nero and chardonnay, $36) vibrant, rich cherry, strawberry

Lucien Albrecht Cremant d’Alsace Brut Rosé (100% pinot noir, $22) strawberry and raspberry with a saline note

Bisol Desiderio “Jeio” Cuvee Rosé (merlot and pinot nero, $17) light, fresh and crisp

And two 100% pinot noir sparkling splurges worth their high cost:

2012 Sea Smoke “Sea Spray” L.D. Blanc de Noirs Santa Lucia Highlands ($80): complex and full, yet elegant

Laurent-Perrier Champagne “Cuvee Rosé” Brut ($99): intense, luxurious and structured, yet drinks with finesse

[Featured Image courtesy of Provence Wine Council]

Whether you realize it or not most wines you drink are blends of multiple grapes from different vineyards, even the ones varietally labeled. And more and more, wineries are featuring wines specifically as blends.

Last November, the consumer survey company, Nielsen identified a growing trend toward more red wine blends, even calling red blends “currently the craft beer of the wine category.” The report also stated “more than 40% of the new entries in 2014 were blends, with more than three quarters of these being reds. No other wine type has even come close to the same amount of new offerings to market.”

For many, the Bordeaux formula of blending various percentages of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, and petit verdot is the template. For others, the “Super Tuscans” of Italy are the benchmark, though usually substituting zinfandel for sangiovese. Still others take southern France as their inspiration, blending grapes like syrah, grenache, mourvedre, and petite sirah. Finally, some mix and match various grapes to achieve a desired style.

Try any of the wines below (reviewed roughly in order of preference within each category) and you will taste the synergy winemakers can achieve in creating a product that embodies the classic sentiment of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts.

One of the best wines of my tasting, the Bordeaux-style 2012 Franciscan “Magnificat” ($55), is 73% cabernet sauvignon, 19% merlot, 3% petit verdot, 3% malbec and 2% cabernet franc. Solid structure and luscious currant and plum are accented with spice, licorice and firm tannins. Nearly as good, the 2012 Dry Creek Vineyard “The Mariner” ($45) – 56% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 8% petit verdot, 8% malbec and 3% cabernet franc – impresses for its framing of lush dark fruits, dried herbs and spice.

Two other worthy choices: 2012 Leviathan ($48) – 45% cabernet sauvignon, 25% cabernet franc, 16% merlot and 14% syrah – dense, sweet berries, creamy, cedary notes, smooth texture but tannic backbone; 2013 Taken Napa Valley Red Wine ($30) – 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot – easy drinking with dark fruits, roasted notes and a refreshing finish

And then there is J. Lohr, which takes the exploration of Bordeaux blends so seriously their “Cuvée Series” (2012, $50) explores three of the main regions of Bordeaux.

• Cuvée POM. Imitating Pomerol – 78% merlot, 14% malbec, 5% cabernet franc, and 3% cabernet sauvignon present powerful tannin and woodsy elements, accented with strong dark fruits
• Cuvée PAU. fashioned after Pauillac – 76% cabernet sauvignon, 10% malbec, 8% merlot, 5% petit verdot, and 1% cabernet franc result in jammy plum and currant, wrapped in forest notes with a touch of tobacco and smooth tannins
• Cuvée ST. E. taking Saint-Émilion as its model – 55% cabernet franc, 34% merlot, 8% malbec, and 3% cabernet sauvignon – rich black fruits and smoky, dusty oak with earthy notes and a suggestion of pencil lead; finishes with strong but disciplined tannins

While J. Lohr’s Cuvee series uses Bordeaux as its reference, Duckhorn Winery’s Paraduxx project for the most part emulates Super Tuscans, with zinfandel standing in for sangiovese.

• 2013 Paraduxx Napa Valley ($48) – 73% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot, 10% zinfandel, 4% petit verdot – strong tobacco and mint notes and solid tannins
• 2012 Atlas Peak ($80) – 65% cabernet sauvignon, 35% zinfandel – firm structure from cab complimented with bright zin berry fruit finishing with a touch of spice
• 2012 Paraduxx Howell Mountain ($80) – 60% zinfandel, 40% cabernet sauvignon – dense red fruits with strong mouthfeel and strong tannic finish
• 2012 Rector Creek Vineyard ($80) – 70% zinfandel, 30% cabernet sauvignon – really shows lively, brambly zin fruit with a complex, focused structure
• 2012 “X²”  ($95) – 90% cabernet sauvignon, 10% zinfandel – pronounced “X squared,” its intense, complex, barrel selection

Two other worthy choices: 2012 Cuttings ($50) – mostly cabernet sauvignon with the rest petite sirah and zinfandel – very ripe fruit with peppery spice and round texture; 2013 Field Stone “Convivio” ($16) – 74% merlot, 19% sangiovese, 5% malbec, 2% cabernet sauvignon – noticeable wood, fresh fruit, firm tannins.

Other good examples that don’t necessarily follow any pattern:

2013 Edmeades “Edmeades’ Folly” ($26) – 47% zinfandel, 23% syrah, 15% merlot, 15% petit sirah – from Mendocino, nice sleek sensation burst with juicy berries and good grip

2013 Beast “Wildebeest” ($25) – 59% syrah, 14% cabernet sauvignon, 11% cabernet franc, 8% malbec 7% Grenache, 1% merlot – bright fruit, lively texture, easy drinking

2013 Conundrum ($25) – mostly zinfandel, with petite sirah, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot – sweet red fruits, mint, light tannins

2013 Decoy Red Wine Sonoma County ($25) – 25% merlot, 20% cabernet sauvignon, 15% zinfandel, 15% cabernet franc, 11% petit sirah, 9% petit verdot, and 5% malbec – dark fruits, forest notes, firm impact, clean finish

2013 Taken “Complicated” ($20) – mostly grenache and syrah and a bit of carignan – ripe, juicy berries, touch of pepper, black licorice, smooth texture

2013 Hess Select “Treo” Winemaker’s Red Blend ($19) – 33% petit sirah, 26% syrah, 22% zinfandel, 25% cabernet franc, 16% merlot – nice plum, savory notes, good body, fresh finish

Nonvintage Q & A Red Wine ($15) – merlot and cabernet sauvignon, with ruby cabernet, and petit sirah – opens with pepper and anise, nice spicy zin fruit

2014 Oak Grove “Winemaker’s Red” Family Reserve ($9) – 50% zinfandel, 35% cabernet sauvignon, 15% petite sirah – pie-like plum fruit, soft and juicy, lightly spicy finish

WINEMAKER VISITS OFFER BENEFITS OF FIRST HAND ACCESS

For a wine devotee, Colorado is a blessed place. We have particularly savvy wine consumers and good distribution of a wide variety of wines. Thus, we are graced with countless visits from wineries eager to tap into our sophisticated market.

One of the more enjoyable aspects of being a wine writer is the opportunity to meet and taste with winery personnel and winemakers. Though, I usually don’t write about these visits because of the loss of objectivity given the circumstances.

Occasionally, this is balanced by the knowledge and perspective gained meeting these creative, dedicated individuals. At three recent visits, I tasted wines that I would have recommended under any circumstances.

One such visit was with Theresa Heredia, winemaker at Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery. Founded in 1982, the winery has grown in acclaim for its artisan Russian River Valley Chardonnay’s and Pinot Noirs.

Now Theresa, who joined the winery in 2012 from Joseph Phelps’ Freestone Vineyards, carries on the tradition. She told me she prefers wines with fresh fruit, natural acidity, structure, and earthiness that reflect site specificity.

She feels her emphasis on picking at lower sugar levels, whole cluster fermentation, extended maceration, and judicious use of oak, including fermentation in large puncheons, yield wines that emphasize primary fruit characteristics but develop more interesting and complex, savory qualities.

And it showed in the wines I tasted: impressive single vineyard Pinots from Bacigalupi and Hallberg vineyards and a Chardonnay from Rochioli, as well as eminently drinkable Russian River Valley designated wines.

My other visits of note were from Italians. Talking with Alfredo Falvo it became clear Masseria LiVeli in Puglia is a labor of love for the Falvo family. Alfredo’s father, Alberto built Avignonesi Winery in Montepulciano, Tuscany into a worldwide force while the family owned it from 1974 to 2009. Now, the family is solely focused on LiVeli.

Alfredo shared the interesting history of this property as a “masseria.” The Salento area of Puglia is fascinating for the concentration of these ancient land estates having their roots in the period of the Norman conquest of the South.

And I find it really cool (that’s a technical wine term) that Li Veli focuses its production on traditional varieties. I enjoyed white wines from fiano and verdeca and red wines from negroamoro (Salice Salentino) and primitivo.

Finally, I visited with Giorgia Casadio of Villa Trasqua, named for the high plateau in the Castellina sub-region of Chianti Classico, just north of Siena. Giorgia explained that Villa Trasqua is new to the U.S. and based on my experience these sangiovese-based, mostly organic wines are well worth you seeking out.

Of course, Villa Trasqua produces estate Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva, including a remarkable single vineyard Riserva, “Nerento.” As Giorgia pointed out, I found Villa Trasqua’s wines to balance deftly the traditional savory, high acid Tuscan style with more modern upfront fruit.

But their winemaker, Franco Bernabei, one of the most respected in Italy, also fashions fine “Super Tuscan wines. In addition to the Chiantis, I enjoyed the entry level Traluna but was really impressed with the 2008 Trasgaia, made of 50% sangiovese, 40% cabernet sauvignon and 10% cabernet franc.

I came away from each of these winery visits with a better understanding of the winemaking craft, as well as a better appreciation for the challenges and satisfactions of making world-class wine.

NEW CHARDONNAY NEW RELEASES SHOW BETTER BALANCE

Chardonnay has had something like a 35-year run as America’s favorite white wine. I suspect its main attraction is that good wine is available in many styles and at many price levels.

With French Burgundy (namely the wines of the Cote d’Or) as the benchmark, most quality minded California producers have employed traditional Burgundian practices of barrel fermentation, malolactic fermentation (“malo” converts sharper malic acid to richer lactic acid) and barrel aging.

In the 80’s and 90’s, exaggerated use of those techniques, especially excessive use of new oak, became fashionable among many of those wineries. The resulting wines did gain popularity but eventually there was a backlash as consumers sought better balanced wines.

Most producers now use oak judiciously, to provide seasoning not dominate the wine’s character. Many still employ full malo to for texture and richness but many use only partial malo. Increasing numbers emulate France’s other Burgundy region, Chablis by limiting new oak or even eschewing oak or malo altogether. The intent is to allow more of the pure, fresh fruit to shine through. At the risk of oversimplification, I find it useful to think of Chardonnay in the context of these two primary styles.

Wines in the Cote d’Or Style are rich, lush and creamy, with toast or vanilla. The grape’s natural citrus fruit gives way to tropical, pear, or peach and sometimes melon or fig. The wines below use significant amounts of oak but they do so to great effect, deftly walking the line between richness and freshness.

If there is one winery and one wine most responsible for Chardonnay’s popularity in this country, it is Kendall-Jackson and the Vintner’s Reserve, which was introduced in 1982. The 2014 ($17) continues the tradition, while KJ has expanded its portfolio to include wines at a variety of price points and from a variety of regions. The 2013 Grand Reserve ($22) shows more richness; the 2014 Jackson Estate Santa Maria Valley ($28) and 2013 Jackson Estate Camelot Highlands ($30) display nicely why Santa Barbara is an increasingly important source of Chardonnay.

The state’s best known region, the Napa Valley, shines with grapes sourced from cooler vineyards in the foothills and in the southern part of the county near the town of Napa and in Carneros. The rich 2014 Chappellet Napa ($35), bright 2013 Artesa Estate Reserve ($35), luscious 2013 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($35), and complex 2013 Franciscan “Cuvee Sauvage” ($40) all merit attention.

Even more than Napa, Sonoma County, especially the cool climate regions of the Russian River Valley and the Sonoma Coast, has emerged as California’s premier Chardonnay producer. And Patz & Hall, a Chardonnay specialist, is one of the county’s most highly regarded producers. Particularly successful with its single vineyard bottlings, the full-bodied 2014 Dutton Ranch ($44) and especially the complex 2013 Zio Tony RRV ($65) impressed, while the pure 2014 Sonoma Coast ($40) is distinctive.

MacRostie also produced a fine 2014 Dutton Ranch ($46), while Matanzas Creek scored with 2013 Sonoma County ($26).

I was particularly impressed with the structured 2014 Sonoma-Loeb Sangiacomo Vineyard ($27) and 2014 Sonoma-Loeb Envoy ($38), a special selection of their best lots mostly from the Sangiacomo Vineyard. Great values.

Patz & Hall also submitted two fine Carneros-Napa Valley wines: the rich, yet fresh 2013 Hyde Vineyard ($60) and the luscious, complex 2014 Hudson Vineyard ($55), arguably the best wine of the tasting.

Lastly, the lively, fruitful 2013 Talbott Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ($42) from the Santa Lucia Highlands is worth seeking out.

Now, what I call the “Chablis Style” is gaining popularity among increasing numbers of California producers. They emulate France’s other Burgundy region, Chablis by limiting new oak (in favor of used oak and stainless steel tanks) and malo, with some actually eschewing oak or malo altogether. The Chablis style emphasizes zesty, fresh, citrus fruits and crisp maybe green apple with a vigorous, lively texture. The intent is to allow more of the pure, fresh fruit to shine through.

The wines below use much less oak but still manage deftly walking the line between richness and. They are listed in my order of preference but all are recommended.

It’s definitely pricey but arguably the best wine of my tasting was the 2013 Sea Smoke Estate Vineyard ($60) from the prestigious Pinot Noir producer in Santa Barbara’s Santa Rita Hills. More than half of the barrels used were new but some of the wine was fermented in stainless steel to capture pure fruit flavors. I found it to have amazing depth with toasty richness and layers of fruit and texture.

Nearly as good at half the price, the 2014 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($30) is remarkable for its abundant stone and tropical fruits and lively structure. With 55% fermented in stainless and no malolactic fermentation, the quality fruit really shines through, even though 32% of the barrels used for aging were new.

Other very good wines at reasonable prices that split fermentation roughly equally between oak barrels and stainless steel tanks:

• 2014 Davis Bynum River West Vineyard ($25). Refreshing citrus, mineral notes, lush

• 2014 Rodney Strong Sonoma Coast ($25). Brisk citrus, caramel apple, sleek

• 2013 Miner Napa Valley ($30). Taut core of lime, tonic-like hints of mineral

• 2013 Clos du Val Napa ($28). Pear, quince, creamy elegance

• 2014 Jordan Russian River Valley ($32). Delicate, yet juicy pear and citrus 

• 2013 Cherry Tart ($25). Bright citrus, sumptuous texture

Lucky for consumers, you can still find good quality at even lower prices. See are some good choices:

• 2013 Educated Guess ($17). Creamy lemon merengue, 60% stainless fermented

• 2013 Talbott “Kali Hart” Monterey ($20). Vibrant, pure apple and melon, 85% stainless fermented

• 2014 Complicated Sonoma Coast ($18). crisp, succulent citrus and tropical fruit

• 2014 Rodney Strong Chalk Hill ($22). energetic citrus but creamy, lush texture

• 2014 Kendall-Jackson “Avant” ($17). Zesty apple and lemon; 60% stainless fermented
• 2014 La Crema Monterey ($20) pineapple and spice, nicely fruity
• 2014 Chloe Sonoma County ($17) nice pear and tropical fruit, soft and round

Finally, since no construct applies 100% of the time, the following wines from Sonoma’s MacRostie Vineyards to my palate fall somewhere between the Cote d’Or Style and the Chablis Style. These wines are all barrel fermented and aged but with little new oak. The 2014 Russian River Valley ($32) uses the most at 21%, the 2014 Sangaicomo ($44) the least at 16%. My favorite of the group, the 2013 Wildcat Mountain ($40) from MacRostie’s estate vineyard on the Sonoma Coast, is in the middle with 18% new oak. It’s plenty rich, full-bodied and plush, while exhibiting a purity of orange, apple and peach fruit, finishing with a touch of spice.

Over the last fifteen years, Malbec, Argentina’s “signature grape” has established a position among the world’s most popular wines. And it has helped Argentina to rise to the a position as the planet’s fifth largest wine producer.

Of course, it helps that the wines are user friendly and eminently drinkable – and affordable. Many of the wines can be had at $20 or less. On the one hand, it seems Argentina’s Malbec producers have settled into a comfort zone of affordable, easy drinking reds that increasingly are crowd pleasers. These wines hit the value sweet spot.

Below are several new Malbecs that would be fine choices for everyday drinking. You will get up front, round fruit and lush textures for your money.

Argento produces a range of varietal wines intended to offer a pure expression of the grapes. The 2014 ($14) is characterized by bright fruit and good energy; the 2013 Reserva ($18) excels with purity, vibrancy and elegance.

Bodegas Caro is a collaboration between Nicolas Catena (arguably the most famous Argentinian producer) and the owners of Chateau Lafite. The 2013 “Aruma” ($18), an impressive entry level bottling, has meaty and herbal aromas followed by pure fruit and soft tannins.

Rutini Wines has been recognized as a leader in quality and character ever since its founding in 1885. The 2014 “Trumpeter” ($11), part of the winery’s value line delivers on that promise opening with deep plum and a slight herbal note with delightful freshness. The 2013 “Encuentro” ($20) is even better. Flashy with a sense of sweet fruit, it is elegant with a sense of freshness.

Tomero is a 30-year-old winery well known for value. The 2014 ($17) continues the tradition with juicy red fruits and a touch of pepper.

Trapiche is one of Argentina’s largest and oldest (129 years) producers and the “Oak Cask” series is its value line.  The 2014 ($10) is delightfully clean and fruit-driven.

I also found nice wines from two négociants, buyers of wine from a variety of sources. Criterion Cellars produces six wines on four continents. Their 2013 ($14) shows nice fruit and solid structure. Layer Cake makes wines on four continents and in five countries. Their 2013 ($16) impresses with smoky dark fruit intensity.

For a little more money you can find more intense fruit, structure and character.

Like the 2014 Gran Malbec ($30) from Flechas de los Andes. A partnership between a Rothschild family member and the owner of Bordeaux’s Chateau Dassault, is a fine rendering of the variety that has the added advantage of being certified kosher.

Septima is a relatively new winery owned by Spain’s Cordoniu (large Cava producer). The 2014 “Obra” ($25) is delightful with myriad fruit and savory aromas and flavors buttressed with solid tannins.

And for a lot more money you can experience the 2010 Rutini “Apartado” Gran Malbec ($100). That’s right, a $100 Argentinean Malbec. A selection of Rutini’s best barrels, it achieves impressive intensity of fruit with balancing savory notes and a nervy spine.

All in all, an impressive showing. This variety of European origin that has adapted so well to Argentina’s terroir delivers high quality and flavor interest at reasonable (with one exception) prices. Although Argentina’s economy is struggling and the wine industry is not unaffected, we are lucky the country continues to churn out fine Malbecs.

Cabernet Sauvignon has been the most popular red wine among U.S. consumers for decades and California Cabs are the biggest sellers. A style that has emphasized richness and concentration, pronounced ripe fruit and lavish oak, has been dialed back somewhat recently in favor of more balance. The most successful wines still offer solid fruit, supple texture, and refined tannins resulting in wines enticing to drink now but able to improve with age.

Top Values – expect fine quality at an attractive price:

2013 Rodney Strong Alexander Valley ($28). This is a perennial value with admirable complexity and refined tannins, enabling it to entice the drinker into early consumption but also tempt to wait a few years to see how it develops.

2012 Murphy Goode Alexander Valley ($26). This 100% Cab wine shows lush, soft fruit and texture wit a balancing touch of oak.

2012 Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley ($25). From Hillside and Benchland vineyards, with dollops of petit verdot, malbec, merlot and cabernet franc, it’s inviting right now but will improve for several years.

2012 Pedroncelli “Block 007” ($25). Estate grown 100% Dry Creek Valley Cab delivers pleasant, tart red fruits offset with light herb and the oak notes.

2013 Educated Guess Napa Valley ($20). Delightfully flavorful and approachable, has lots of character and appeal for the money.

2012 Old Soul Lodi ($14). Surprisingly bold, spicy and assertive with just enough character for the grill.

Sweet Spot of Quality/Value – more money is rewarded with high quality:

2012 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($50). This is a fabulous tribute to the craft of blending. It’s only 75 percent cabernet with 17 percent merlot and drips of cabernet franc, petite verdot and malbec from five vineyards. Quintessentially Napa.

2012 Murphy-Goode “Terra a Lago” ($40). From a vineyard in the foothills of the Mayacamas Range, this 100 % Cab offers good complexity and structure with admirable ripeness.

2012 Clos du Val Napa Valley ($38). Known for exhibiting a French touch with Napa fruit, this meets expectations balancing solid structure with a bright core of fruit.

2013 Jackson Estate Alexander Valley ($36). A really fine example of Sonoma Cab (with small percentages of merlot, malbec, cabernet franc and petit verdot), its higher elevation fruit yields an intense yet balanced wine with enticing complexity.

2013 J. Lohr “Hilltop” ($35). A perennial favorite from Paso Robles, its lush red fruit melds nicely with savory notes.

Splurges – for those special times when a special bottle is desired:

2012 Miner Stagecoach Vineyard ($75). From a highly regarded vineyard in the eastern hills of Atlas Peak in southern Napa Valley, this high elevation fruit impresses with earthy character, ripeness and firm structure.

2012 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($72). This company that made its name with Merlot also produces top quality Cabernet Sauvignon (and Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Blends). This one is typically highly structured and expected to be long lived.

2012 Cakebread Napa Valley ($65). Exemplary Napa Cab with loads of fruit buttressed with solid structure; it will reward years of patience.

2013 Chappellet “Signature” ($60). Classic mountain-grown Cab, including fruit from Chappellet’s renowned Pritchard Hill, delivers on its reputation for power amid grace.

2012 Jackson Estate Hawkeye ($55). Another fine Kendall-Jackson high elevation Alexander Valley wine that is deeply fruited, highly structured and lusciously textured.

2012 Jordan Alexander Valley ($55). Bordeaux is the model for this perennial restaurant favorite. The new vintage reveals more intensity than usual but is still expectedly seductive.

NOTE: Featured image courtesy of Miner Family Vineyards

With the approach of Earth Day, many people and businesses turn their attention to issues concerning the environment, sustainability and the connections between generations. It is no different in the wine world. Actually, for many wineries every day is Earth Day. More and more wineries are committing to sustainable practices as their fundamental business model.

One of the leaders in this movement is the Benziger Family Winery. At this Sonoma Mountain winery established in 1980, sustainability is a family affair with around 24 members involved. Convinced that natural techniques yield more flavorful, aromatic grapes with more site-specific character, while improving the health of the estate, they converted the property into a biodynamic farm. Today, the family owns four certified biodynamic vineyard estates and every wine carries a green certification – sustainable, organic or biodynamic – from a third party. Try the 2012 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($20), Merlot ($20), 2013 Chardonnay ($16), and 2013 North Coast Sauvignon Blanc ($15) and see what I mean.

In Mendocino County, Parducci Wine Cellars has a long commitment to business social responsibility, reclaiming 100% of the water used in the cellars, using 100% green power and earth-friendly packaging, and becoming the nation’s first carbon neutral winery. They also are a reliable producer of value priced wine. But I suggest you check out the “True Grit Reserve” portfolio – 2014 Chardonnay, and 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Blend and Petite Sirah (each $30) – representing special selections of the best quality grapes.

Even in the famous Napa Valley most producers recognize the value of sustainable practices. Under the direction of famed winemaker Miljenko “Mike” Grgich (and now his daughter Violet) Grgich Hills Estate was one of the earliest adopters. Today, most of its vineyards are certified organic and biodynamic and the winery converted its electricity to solar power. See what skilled artisans can do with great grapes with these current releases: 2013 “Fume Blanc” ($30) and Chardonnay ($43) and 2012 Zinfandel ($35), Merlot ($43) and Cabernet Sauvignon ($65).

Oregon’s wine industry also has been in the forefront of sustainable practices and Stoller Vineyards has been one of its leaders. The Stoller family has farmed the property since in 1943. Now, its vineyards have attained organic and Biodynamic certification and the winery is certified organic for operations and processing. Add Salmon Safe and LIVE certified. The winery also is solar-powered and the first in the world to receive LEED Gold certification. From the 2013 vintage enjoy the Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($35) and Chardonnay ($30), and especially the Reserve Chardonnay ($35) and Pinot Noir ($45).

Packaging is another way producers enhance their environmental and economic bottom line. Newly released value brand Vin Vault offers its portfolio in a convenient box package that protects freshness (up to four weeks!) and offers energy savings in production, transportation and storage. Easy to open and reseal, portable, lightweight, and resistant to breakage, these are perfect for picnics and parties. Each 3-liter box holds the equivalent of four 750ml-sized bottles. Vin Vault is available in six varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Red Blend.

So, this Earth Day (and beyond) raise a glass of sustainable wine knowing you can drink well while doing good.

NOTE: Featured Image Courtesy of Wikipedia

Sometimes, I think I don’t write enough about affordable wines. Of course, what’s “affordable” is relative. Usually described in wine magazines as “good values” or “everyday wines,” these generally are defined as wines that deliver good quality –correct varietal character, clean fruit and a sense of character for a reasonable price – nowadays usually for $20 or less. Don’t expect fancy single vineyard expressions. Do expect tasty, inviting wines that you’ll swear are worth more than you paid.

Kendall-Jackson. From the original brand Jess Jackson (who passed away in 2011) started in 1983, Kendall-Jackson has grown into one of the world’s largest family-owned wine companies. The “Vintner’s Reserve” line is still the company’s backbone and these new red releases are as exemplary as the white wines the brand is best known for.

• 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon ($24)
• 2013 Merlot ($19)
• 2013 Summation Blend ($17)
• 2014 Syrah ($17)

Rodney Strong. Founded in 1959 by Rodney Strong and owned by Tom Klein since 1989, they have had the same winemaker in Rick Sayre since 1979. The winery has built its reputation on delivering quality from Sonoma’s best appellations. This includes its Sonoma County designated wines.

• 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon ($20)
• 2012 Merlot ($20)
• 2013 Chardonay ($17)

Murphy-Goode. Located in the Alexander Valley region of Sonoma County, Murphy-Goode is a family-owned winery – twice. Founded 30 years ago by three friends, the winery now is part of Jackson Family Wines, while the original families are still involved. The fresh white wines below carry a California designation.

• 2014 Chardonnay ($14)
• 2014 Sauvignon Blanc “The Fume” ($14)
• 2014 Pinot Grigio ($14)

Silver Palm. This relatively new label is focused on sourcing grapes from California’s coastal regions. Grapes for the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay, which are labeled North Coast, come mostly from Mendocino but also Napa and Sonoma. The Pinot Noir is sourced from the Central Coast vineyards, mostly Monterey with some Santa Barbara.

• 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon ($19)
• 2014 Merlot ($18)
• 2014 Pinot Noir Central Coast ($18)
• 2014 Chardonnay ($15)

Wild Horse. Located in San Louis Obispo County, this thirty-year-old winery was one of the pioneers of contemporary grape growing in the Central Coast. Originally focused on grapes from Paso Robles, they now produce a wide range of wines from vineyards throughout the Central Coast. The basic Central Coast line presents good introductions to the bounty of this area stretching roughly from Monterey to Santa Barbara.

• 2012 “GSM” ($15)
• 2014 Pinot Gris ($15)

The Federalist. The Federalist pays homage to our country’s Founding Fathers and their love of wine. The wines are crafted from grapes grown in Sonoma County and Lodi. The labels feature tributes to Alexander Hamilton, George Washington, John Adams and Ben Franklin. They even reference the Aaron Burr/Alexander Hamilton duel but curiously none reference Thomas Jefferson, the Founding Father most associated with wine. Notice the price on these Lodi wines.

• 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon ($17.76)
• 2014 Zinfandel ($17.76)

Josh Cellars. Founder Joseph Carr created this value line as a tribute to his father. Supplementing his namesake flagship wines, these are blended from North Coast grapes, especially Mendocino and Lake counties.

• 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon
• 2013 Legacy Blend
• 2013 Sauvignon Blanc

Is it coincidence that the “cradle of civilization” also is the likely origin of winemaking on the planet?

Although there isn’t absolute proof of those origins, the lands south of the Black Sea and east of the Mediterranean Sea have yielded the earliest known discoveries of winemaking dating at least 8000 years ago.

This includes the area known as Anatolia, comprising most of today’s Republic of Turkey, one of the oldest permanently settled regions in the world. The area also has a history of empire including those of Alexander the Great, Greek, Roman, and Byzantine, not to mention invasions from Mongols, Persians and Arabs. From 1300 to the early 1900s, Turkey was the base for the Ottoman Empire.

Throughout, there was grape growing and winemaking. Given this, I find it curious Turkish wines are seldom found on the shelves of U.S. wine stores. I hope that changes soon. I recently tasted two representative wines from indigenous grape varieties and, though an extremely small sample, I was quite impressed with the quality.

The wines are from Vinkara Winery in Kalecik, a small village in mountainous Anatolia. The red, a 2012 Kalecik Karasi Reserve (pronounced Kah-le-djic Car-ah-ser, $27) is medium bodied with bright red and black fruits, hints of spice and vanilla, with fresh acidity and a sleek texture. The white, a 2013 Narince (pronounced Nah-rin-djeh, $15) presents searing citrus and mineral notes followed by tight acid structure.

Although wines from the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia also are just beginning to emerge in international markets, like Turkey, they still haven’t entered the psyche of American wine drinkers. Yet, here too, there is a rich history of wine culture, dating at least back to 800 B.C.

This is the part of the Balkans that made up Yugoslavia whose break up in the early 1990s led to tragic ethnic conflict. The Republic of Macedonia is a landlocked country bordered by Kosovo, Serbia, Bulgaria, Greece, and Albania.

A brief review of the history of the area, again like Turkey, reveals millennia of conquests and empires. Most notably, Macedonia was the home of Alexander the Great who established one of the largest empires of the ancient period. The area has been under the influence of ancient Greece and later the Persian, Roman and Ottoman empires, the latter of which controlled Macedonia for over 500 years until its dissolution in the early 1900s.

Macedonia escaped much of the violence of the early 1990s but not the late 1990s, delaying improvements in trade and investment, including wine production, which only began to recover in the 2000s. In the last 15 years, though, the Macedonian wine industry has modernized dramatically but with a commitment to preserving indigenous varieties. Interestingly, my tasting revealed international grape varieties also do well here.

A vestige of this history, Macedonia has over 61,000 acres of vineyards, which are managed by 15,000 winemaking families and producers. I enjoyed wines from only two producers in the Tikves region, considered Macedonia’s vineyard heartland. But it was enough to convince me.

• 2014 Stobi Zilavka (pronounced zhi-luv-ka, $11): fresh, nutty cashew and almond, lime and apricot
• 2014 Stobi R’Katsiteli (pronounced Rkah-tsee-tely, $15): hay and stone, green apple and gooseberry, brisk with good body, tangy finish
• 2013 Stobi Macedon Pinot Noir ($15): nice plum with a touch of earth and polished tannins
• 2014 Bovin Chardonnay ($15): initially smells like Sauvignon Blanc, then develops intense aromatics and flavors of herbs and chalk with deep citrus and tropical fruit
• 2013 Bovin Dissan ($30): made with the highly regarded vranec red grape there is plum and notes of fresh soil; medium body and quite flavorful with a sleek texture

So, if you are looking for something different or just feeling a bit adventurous, go to the source and try these ancient, yet modern wines. And if you can’t find them, urge your local retailer to stock them.