The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

Italy’s distinctive geography (and culture and history) produces arguably the widest diversity of wines anywhere on the planet. There also is a cornucopia of native varieties producing mostly region-focused, small production wines well worth seeking out. If there is a common thread along the peninsula, they all offer intense aromatics and refreshing character. Recommended wines from my recent tasting are listed by region from North to south.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia

2020 Russiz Superiore Sauvignon ($31) from Collio near the border with Slovenia in view of the Alps and Adriatic Sea; juicy grapefruit, herbs, nuts 

Trentino-Alto Adige

2020 Alois Lageder “Versalto” Pinot Bianco ($28) from select vineyards in the Alpine valleys (Dolomites) north of Verona; biodynamic, mountain air, lively apricot, lush

Veneto 

2020 Inama Soave Classico “Carbonare” ($30) garganega grapes from single vineyard; pear, nectarine, apricot, with almond, lush texture

Pasqua “Hey French: You Could Have Made This But You Didn’t” ($40) multivintage blend of garganega with pinot bianco and sauvignon, from vineyards on the Verona side of Monte Calvarina; surprisingly complex with richness and freshness

Marche

2021 Garofoli “Supèra” Verdicchio di Matelica ($16) from vineyards at the base of the Apennines; juicy pear, plum, solid structure 

Sardinia (Sardegna) 

2021 Surrau “Branu” Vermentino di Gallura ($20) from estate vineyards; crisp citrus, some weight, chalky hints 

Tuscany (Toscana)

2018 Frescobaldi “Massovivio” Vermentino ($22) from the Frescobaldi’s Ammiraglia estate; floral, succulent, minerally

Abruzzo

2021 La Valentina Pecorino ($18) organic, biodynamic, (old variety once thought extinct but resurrected by La Valentina); intense, brisk apple, cashew 

Sicily 

Catarratto. Ancient grape, historically used in Marsala wine and blends, full-bodied dry, deep citrus, floral elements 

2020 Feudo Disisa “Lu Bancu” ($22) tart, herbal nuttiness

2020 Gorghi Tondi “Midor” ($18) organic, lime, tight, lively

2020 Cottanera “Barbazzale” ($19) fresh, citrusy, herbal

Zibibbo (Moscato di Alessandria). Very ancient grape originated in Egypt; often used for dessert wines; intensely aromatic dry wines of orange, stone fruits, almond. 

2020 Donnafugata “Lighea” ($24) persistent freshness, mineral

2020 Mandrarossa “Costadune Secco” ($18) tropical fruit, mint, lip-smacking 

Grillo. Another ancient variety historically a component of Marsala and blends but also a fine dry wine of citrus, apple, and refreshing acidity.

2020 Planeta “La Segreta” ($20) sauvignon-like herbal citrus

2020 Donnafugata “Sur Sur” ($22) crisp apple, lemon, light spice 

2019 Cantine Ermes “Quattro Quarti” ($19) juicy tropical fruit, hint of black tea

Insolia (Inzolia). Again, historically a component of Marsala and many blends but it is delightfully nutty, citrusy, herbal as a dry varietal wine. 

2019 Principi di Butera “Carizza” ($17) tangy stone fruits

2020 Baglio di Pianetto ($15) organic, citrus, nitty

2021 Sallier de la Tour Inzolia ($15) citrus, stone fruits, mineral 

Etna Bianco. Mount Etna, the tallest, most active volcano in Europe also happens to overlook suddenly prized volcanic soils, old vines, and multiple microclimates vineyards. Wines are mostly carricante.

2019 Terra Costantino ($27) organic, tight, pear, savory 

2021 Duca di Salaparuta “Lavico” ($26) lively tropical, savory, mineral

During summer’s warm months, white wines provide welcome tonic. Add the refreshing bubbles of sparkling wine and you have the ideal summer drink. And Americans are bubbling over with demand for sparkling wine. Americans are sipping more of the frothy drink than ever before. 

It may be surprising to some but Italy is a leading bubbly producer. Most known to consumers likely is Prosecco, the fresh, fruity, delicate, lower alcohol sparkler made with Charmat, or tank, method. 

• Adami Bosco di Gica Brut ($22) round, lightly sweet 
• 2021 Adami Col Credas Extra Brut ($26) very dry, refreshing 
• 2019 Valdo “Numero 10” Brut ($30) uniquely uses Champagne, or bottle fermentation, method; intense citrus, tight frame, touch anise

You may expect Lambrusco (name of the red grape and the wine; made with tank method) from Emilia-Romagna to be cloyingly sweet but artisan producer Cleto Chiarli makes it mostly dry from estate-grown grapes. They are a uniquely delicious and versatile drink. 

• 2022 Vigneto Cialdini ($18) fresh, luscious, firm, savory 
• 2022 Vecchia Modena Premium Brut ($18) fresh, lively, deeply fruitful
• 2021 Fondatore Secco ($21) bottle fermented, very dry, deep fruit
• Brut di Noir Rosé Vino Spumante di Qualità ($16) tart, juicy, easy drinking 
• Centenario “Amabile” ($14) succulent, delightfully semi-sweet, crisp 

Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti from the southern Piemonte, made with moscato bianco grapes using the tank method, are delightfully sweet, balanced with refreshing acidity, and very low alcohol (7% and 5% respectively). 

• Capetta Asti Dolce ($15) crisp apple, pear and peach
• Acquesi Asti ($15) brisk fruity peach, orange, lemon
• 2021 Vietti Moscato d’Asti ($16) luscious, lemony, honeyed, lower pressure

Italy also excels in Champagne method bubbly (known as Metodo Classico) made with the Champagne grapes chardonnay and pinot noir that can achieve equal quality to French Champagne. 

Many consider “Franciacorta” from Lombardia to be Italy’s finest Metodo Classico. The Majolini Rosé “Altéra” ($55) certified organic, 100% pinot noir, shows minerality and structure.

“Alta Langa” from southern Piemonte reportedly was Italy’s first sparkling wine, dating to the mid-1800s. The 2018 Enrico Serafino “Oudeis” Brut Rosé ($31), 100% pinot noir, offers sophisticated red fruits and light toast. 

California and Oregon also make fine sparkling wines. The best use the Champagne method and the Champagne grapes pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot meunier. And the growth in this sector for both states is a testament to the quality. 

2019 Cuvaison Brut Rosé ($60): estate grown, vibrant raspberry, pink grapefruit, rich, luscious  

Gran Moraine Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Brut Rosé ($60) estate grown, intense citrus, apple, peach 

Naidu Brut North Coast ($34) first Indian immigrant, female-operated winery in the U.S.; succulent pear, grapefruit 

2021 Robert Hall Cavern Select Brut Paso Robles ($40) 100% grenache blanc, concentrated lemon, light cream

NOTE: wines are nonvintage unless otherwise stated.

Chardonnay and its parent pinot noir have long been closely related. No surprise we often find them growing successfully in the same regions, like Burgundy and Oregon. And the cooler coastal climates of California. 

Pinot Noir produces light- to medium-bodied wines notable for aromas and flavors of cherry, plum, earth and brown spice with a silky, ethereal palate. Chardonnay produces rather full wines for a white and aromas and flavors of fresh citrus, apple or tropical fruit, occasionally with nuttiness and creaminess. 

These wineries, listed alphabetically, are fine examples of how these grapes and wines go together.

Alma Rosa (El Jabalí Estate Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills) 

Just ten miles from the cooling effects of the Pacific Ocean; certified organic: 2020 Chardonnay ($50), 2020 Pinot Noir ($85) 

Bouchaine (Estate Vineyard, Carneros)

Shallow clay loam soils and cooling breezes from San Pablo Bay, sustainable: 2020 Chardonnay ($35), 2020 Pinot Noir ($40) 

Calera (Central Coast)

Blended from well-regarded vineyards from Livermore to the Santa Ynez Valley: 2021 Chardonnay ($28), 2021 Pinot Noir ($32) 

Cuvaison (Estate Grown, Carneros)

Gently rolling hills of certified-sustainable estate cooled by fog off San Pablo Bay: 2021 Chardonnay ($35), 2021 Pinot Noir ($42) 

Gary Farrell (Russian River Selection, Russian River Valley)

From some of the winery’s top vineyard sources with ocean and river influences: 2021 Chardonnay ($40), 2021 Pinot Noir ($50) 

FEL (Anderson Valley, Mendocino)

From multiple vineyards in Anderson Valley about a dozen miles from the ocean: 2021 FEL Anderson Valley ($34), 2021 FEL Anderson Valley ($42) 

Frank Family (Carneros)

Grapes from the winery’s Lewis Vineyard, Beckstoffer Vineyards in Napa-Carneros and Sangiacomo Vineyards in Sonoma-Carneros: 2021 Chardonnay ($40), 2021 Pinot Noir ($40) 

The Hilt (Estate Grown, Sta. Rita Hills)

From three distinct vineyards in the southwestern corner of the Sta. Rita Hills: 

2020 The Hilt Estate ($50), 2020 The Hilt Estate ($50) 

Ladera (Pillow Road Vineyard, Russian River Valley) 

Sebastopol Hills in Goldridge sandy loam soils just 10 miles from the ocean: 2020 Chardonnay ($60), 2020 Ladera Pinot Noir ($75) 

Lynmar Estate (Quail Hill Vineyard, Russian River Valley)

Lynmar’s original vineyard in the heart of the Russian River Valley: 2018 Chardonnay ($68), 2018 Pinot Noir ($76) 

MacRostie (Nightwing Vineyard, Sonoma Coast)

New vineyard in the mountainous eastern edge of the Petaluma Gap: 2021 Chardonnay ($52), 2021 Pinot Noir ($62) 

Migration (Sonoma Coast)

Blends of vineyards just a few miles from the cooling effects of the ocean: 2021 Chardonnay ($44), 2021 Pinot Noir ($46) 

Presqu’ile (Presqu’ile Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley) 

In the southwestern hills of the valley with a view of the ocean: 2020 Chardonnay ($48), 2020 Pinot Noir ($62) 

Ram’s Gate (Estate Vineyard, Carneros) 

Organically farmed, straddles Sonoma Valley, Sonoma Coast, and Carneros: 2020 Chardonnay ($76), 2020 Pinot Noir ($85) 

Sea Slopes (Fort Ross Vineyards & Winery, Sonoma Coast) 

Coastal terrain, cool marine influences produce an approachable, elegant style: 2021Chardonnay ($30), 2021 Pinot Noir ($35) 

The Santa Cruz Mountains AVA (American Viticultural Area) is one of the lesser-known wine regions of California among consumers. I’m here to change that. In addition to breathtaking ocean and mountain vistas, the world-class wines are becoming a major draw.

The AVA was established in 1981 using the “ European model” of climatological and geophysical aspects (primarily elevation) instead of political boundaries. From just south of San Francisco it stretches down the peninsula almost to Monterey Bay with the Pacific Ocean to the west and the San Francisco Bay and Santa Clara Valley to the east. Even with significant growth since the 1960s that has accelerated in the 21st century, the region is mostly characterized by smaller, family-owned vineyards and wineries. 

Winegrape production is divided roughly evenly among Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and “Other Varieties”. This column makes recommendations for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. My next column covers exciting developments with Pinot Noir. 

Cabernet Sauvignon

2019 RIDGE Monte Bello Vineyard ($245) Winegrowing along and up Monte Bello Ridge began in the 1870s. Since 1962, Ridge has championed what it describes as a “pre-industrial approach” to single-vineyard winemaking. Monte Bello Cabernets from Ridge are iconic, long considered a “grand cru” of California wine. Notably they present an elegant European style as much as a full fruited American style. This one has layers of complexity, vanilla, minerals, cocoa, currant; balanced, yet revealing the structure to enable evolution, possibly for decades.

2018 Mount Eden Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains ($110) Small historic wine estate founded in 1945 by Martin Ray; located on a mountain peak, it is one of the original “boutique” California wineries; earth, herb, graphite accent plum and blue fruits, dryly tannic, tightly wound structure yet supple texture, will develop even more complexity with lengthy cellaring.

2019 Vöcal Vineyards “Bates Ranch” ($95) Focused on single vineyard wines, Vöcal produced this from an allocation of hillside vines of the original dry farmed, own-rooted 1969 planting; quite rich, a bit of spice with ripe, fresh red berries touched with herbal notes. 

Chardonnay

2019 Thomas Fogarty Winery Langley Hill Vineyard ($68) Established in 1976, employs organic, sustainable, and biodynamic practices; delightful brisk citrus and nectarine with hints of stone and juicy palate

2021 Sandar & Hem Wines Mountain Winery Vineyard ($52) Winery is barely five years old but the dedication to capturing the essence of the terroirs of the AVA, this one is from a Paul Masson planted vineyard; tightly impactful citrus balanced with round nut and spicy lemongrass

2021 Beauregard Vineyards Ben Lomond Mountain “Bald Mountain” ($65) Originally planted around 1880, the Beauregard family has farmed this property since 1945; intense and brash with zesty citrus and chalky notes

Over the last two decades, Argentina has established itself as one of the most important wine producing countries on the planet. While malbec has emerged as its signature grape and among the U.S.’s most popular wines, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, chardonnay and torrontes also are making world class wines. 

Most of the wines come from the high-altitude Mendoza region near the Andes Mountains. As evidenced in this column, most deliver serious flavor and immediate drinkability at reasonable prices. But, as my tastings showed there also are super fine, top quality, ageable wines being produced.

Trapiche. One of Argentina’s largest and oldest producers, offers a variety of tiers to showcase the abundance of Mendoza. It is Argentina’s largest exported brand. My tasting included fresh, bold, structured samples from the top tier Medalla line: 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon ($25); 2020 Malbec ($25).

Trivento. This large production winery is owned by Chile’s Concha y Toro and is a certified B Corporation focusing on sustainable winemaking, business, social and environmental standards within its operations, supply chain and community. The Reserve line presents velvety, balanced, values: 2021 Malbec (vegan, $11) 

Graffigna. Founded in 1870 in San Juan just north of Mendoza, it is the third oldest producer in in Argentina. The winery sources its grapes from both regions: plump, fresh 2021 Graffigna “Genuine Collection” Malbec ($12); bright, sleek, woodsy 2020 “Glorious Selection” Malbec ($19)

Argento. Also a leader in sustainability efforts, its vineyards are organic and Fair Trade certified. And this care is extended to their employees and surrounding communities. From estate grown grapes: fruit-forward 2020 “Estate Collection” Malbec ($20) pleasant; pure, fresh 2020 “Estate Collection” Malbec-Cabernet Franc ($20) 

Otronia. Innovative winery and vineyards in the Patagonia Extrema, the southernmost wine region of Argentina. The cold climate weather is often challenging, with extremely low rainfall and high speed winds reaching staggering levels. But it is also conducive to natural acidity, purity, intensity in the organically grown grapes: intense, flavorful 2019 Block III & VI Chardonnay ($90); brisk, delightful 2020 45 Rugientes Rosé ($45)

Susana Balbo. Family-owned winery founded by Susana Balbo, Argentina’s first female winemaker, in Mendoza in 1999. She is credited with creating the first world-class Torrontés. My tasting included several impressive samples: 2021 “Crios” Malbec ($15); 2022 Signature Torrontés ($25); 2020 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon ($25); and a special project of Susana Balbo, the deep, earthy, juicy 2020 BenMarco “Sin Limites” Organic Malbec ($29) 

Viña Cobos. Established in 1998 in Mendoza by renowned California winemaker Paul Hobbs to produce luxury-class Malbec-based wines. Hobbes has consulted with many wineries in Argentina. But this is the one he owns. Bright, firm, spicy 2021 Felino Malbec ($22); concentrated plush 2020 Cocodrilo Corte ($30) malbec/cabernet sauvignon; enticing, concentrated, plush 2018 “Vinculum” Malbec ($70) 

Argentina’s Red Wines: More than Malbec (But Mostly Malbec)

Over the last two decades, Argentina has established itself as one of the most important wine producing countries on the planet. While malbec has emerged as its signature grape and among the U.S.’s most popular wines, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, chardonnay and torrontes also are making world class wines. 

Most of the wines come from the high-altitude Mendoza region near the Andes Mountains. As evidenced in this column, most deliver serious flavor and immediate drinkability at reasonable prices. But, as my tastings showed there also are super fine, top quality, ageable wines being produced.

Trapiche. One of Argentina’s largest and oldest producers, offers a variety of tiers to showcase the abundance of Mendoza. It is Argentina’s largest exported brand. My tasting included fresh, bold, structured samples from the top tier Medalla line: 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon ($25); 2020 Malbec ($25).

Trivento. This large production winery is owned by Chile’s Concha y Toro and is a certified B Corporation focusing on sustainable winemaking, business, social and environmental standards within its operations, supply chain and community. The Reserve line presents velvety, balanced, values: 2021 Malbec (vegan, $11) 

Graffigna. Founded in 1870 in San Juan just north of Mendoza, it is the third oldest producer in in Argentina. The winery sources its grapes from both regions: plump, fresh 2021 Graffigna “Genuine Collection” Malbec ($12); bright, sleek, woodsy 2020 “Glorious Selection” Malbec ($19)

Argento. Also a leader in sustainability efforts, its vineyards are organic and Fair Trade certified. And this care is extended to their employees and surrounding communities. From estate grown grapes: fruit-forward 2020 “Estate Collection” Malbec ($20) pleasant; pure, fresh 2020 “Estate Collection” Malbec-Cabernet Franc ($20) 

Otronia. Innovative winery and vineyards in the Patagonia Extrema, the southernmost wine region of Argentina. The cold climate weather is often challenging, with extremely low rainfall and high speed winds reaching staggering levels. But it is also conducive to natural acidity, purity, intensity in the organically grown grapes: intense, flavorful 2019 Block III & VI Chardonnay ($90); brisk, delightful 2020 45 Rugientes Rosé ($45)

Susana Balbo. Family-owned winery founded by Susana Balbo, Argentina’s first female winemaker, in Mendoza in 1999. She is credited with creating the first world-class Torrontés. My tasting included several impressive samples: 2021 “Crios” Malbec ($15); 2022 Signature Torrontés ($25); 2020 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon ($25); and a special project of Susana Balbo, the deep, earthy, juicy 2020 BenMarco “Sin Limites” Organic Malbec ($29) 

Viña Cobos. Established in 1998 in Mendoza by renowned California winemaker Paul Hobbs to produce luxury-class Malbec-based wines. Hobbes has consulted with many wineries in Argentina. But this is the one he owns. Bright, firm, spicy 2021 Felino Malbec ($22); concentrated plush 2020 Cocodrilo Corte ($30) malbec/cabernet sauvignon; enticing, concentrated, plush 2018 “Vinculum” Malbec ($70) 

Over the last couple of decades, Argentina has established itself as one of the most important wine producing countries on the planet. Most of the available wines come from the Mendoza region. While malbec has emerged as its signature grape, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, chardonnay and torrontés also are making world class wines. The wines typically are highly accessible and eminently drinkable. 

Wineries throughout the country also have undertaken various initiatives associated with social, environmental and economic sustainability. Domaine Bousquet, one of Argentina’s largest wineries, and its largest exporter of organically grown wines is a good example. Bousquet’s high elevation vineyards were first planted in 1997 in the high-altitude Tupungato zone in Mendoza’s Uco Valley and have been certified organic since 2005. Just recently it has become a B Corp and Regenerative Organic Certified. 

Its extensive portfolio provides quality at all levels. The entry level “Varietal Series” ($13) deftly blends estate and purchased organic fruit: Unoaked Chardonnay, Chardonnay-Torrontés, Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot. The Reserve wines ($18) translate older vines into fine body, concentration, deep flavor, and in the reds structured tannin and increased aging capacity: Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Pinot Noir. The “Gran Series” ($25) features the best grapes from the original vineyard planted by the Bousquet family: Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec.

The “Gaia” collection ($20) does a splendid job of communicating the diversity of grapes grown in Bousquet’s vineyards in a fresh, juicy style: White Blend, Rosé, Red Blend, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec. 

And there is Virgen ($13), the first Argentine no-sulfites-added, vegan, USDA-organic-certified wines to launch in the U.S., named for the virgin land where the Bousquet family planted its first vineyards: Red Blend, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec, Chardonnay. These are ideal introductions for those interested in so-called “natural” wines. For readers who may associate the natural, no-sulfites-added movement with small-production, impossible-to-find, cloudy, funky and inconsistent wines, the Virgen wines are reassuringly balanced, fresh and approachable: vegan, no oak, and good value. 

And as if that wasn’t enough, there’s Alavida, Domaine Bousquet’s USDA-certified organic kosher Malbec ($19), one of few wines worldwide to attain this unusual dual status. Alavida Malbec is also vegan, gluten-free, and Ecocert-approved. Given the extensive care necessary to make kosher, additive-free wines –requiring the assistance and presence of Jewish winemaking staff, keeping the winery super-clean, storing it at a cooler temperature post-fermentation, tasting the wine constantly to ensure nothing untoward is taking place. The result is wine exhibiting purity of fruit and freshness.

Overall, it’s an impressive portfolio of diverse wines that show the quality and accessibility of wines from Argentina. 

While varietally labeled wines are the most popular among consumers, wine blends have increased significantly in interest in recent years. Instead of the character of just one variety, blends allow consumers to experience how different aromas and flavors from different grapes come together to create a unique assemblage. The result is a more complete, consistent, multidimensional wine.

Wines such as these demonstrate that just as cultural diversity is a societal strength, so diversity in winemaking has distinctive benefits. The Red Blends below (listed in order of my preference but all are recommended) display the synergy that embodies the classic sentiment of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts. They also will age nicely.

2019 Hamel Family “Isthmus” ($90) Bordeaux-style blend showcases the Hamel Family Ranch in Sonoma Valley and its Nuns Canyon Vineyard in the Moon Mountain District; mostly cabernet sauvignon, with merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot; complex yet friendly; intense cherries, blueberries, cassis, plum; meaty, savory herbs, earthy notes, powdery tannins 

2019 Paraduxx Rector Creek Vineyard ($88) Paraduxx focuses on Napa Valley red blends, in this case two limited-production wines offering different expressions of the rocky soils of this vineyard; the concentrated “Block 4” (petit verdot, zinfandel and cabernet sauvignon) features wild berry, raspberry, tobacco and spice notes; the complex “Block 5” (cabernet franc, zinfandel and cabernet sauvignon) demonstrates cherry, black plums, raspberry, herbs, spice 

2019 Girard “Artistry” ($60) mostly cabernet sauvignon, with merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, petit verdot from Girard’s best barrel lots throughout the Napa Valley; succulent raspberry, cherry, light spice, velvety richness

2019 Dry Creek Vineyard “The Mariner” ($50) cabernet sauvignon, merlot, malbec, petit verdot, cabernet franc from several of the most prized estate and hillside vineyards in the Dry Creek Valley; fresh, luscious dark berries, licorice, forest note, subtle oak, lovely texture

2018 Duckhorn “The Discussion” ($155) represents the pinnacle of Duckhorn’s portfolio; 56% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot, with cabernet franc, petit verdot from their diverse Napa Valley estate vineyards; vigorous cassis, cherry, cola, toast, forest notes, broad, generous palate delivers depth, complexity 

2018 Gamble “Paramount” ($90) cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and petit verdot from this large landowner’s vineyards throughout the Napa Valley; fruitful plum, blackberry, prominent vanilla, lush palate 

Finally, two good value priced blends:

2018 Markham “The Altruist” ($29) predominantly using estate-grown Napa Valley fruit, including 61% merlot, 24% cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, cabernet franc, malbec; black cherry, raspberry, creamy oak, lightly minty, intensity builds on finish

Mettler “Copacetic” ($20) multi-vintage, estate grown wine from a family that has farmed in Lodi over 100 years; bright cherry, warm spices, lively acidity balanced by richness, light tannins