The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

As the calendar marches us into holiday season, most of us will begin soon to plan for our Thanksgiving Day meal. Choosing the wine can be challenging, though. There are so many different types of food, flavors and textures.

First, rule: relax. It’s easy to go down a rabbit hole trying to come up with the perfect match. Turkey actually is versatile, though I don’t suggest heavy, complex reds. In my experience, light- to medium-bodied reds better compliment the meat. And they work with the accompaniments, too.

Pinot Noir comes to mind first. Specifically Pinot Noir D’Alsace for its supple, balanced palate and bright red fruit (cherry, strawberry, cranberry) with savory spice flavors. The 2019 Jean-Baptiste Adam “Les Natures” ($30) made with organically grown grapes, balances vitality with silky tannins. With its solid acidity, it also would be a good complement to ham, creamy potatoes or green beans. Its earthiness harmonizes root vegetables and gravy. And its red fruit stands up to cranberry sauce. 

If you prefer white wine, I recommend dry Alsatian Riesling. It is distinguished by pure aromas, plentiful, focused green apple and citrus fruit, and a bracing grip on the palate. A wine like the 2020 Domaine Emile Beyer “Tradition” ($24) will carve through the fat in the meat and gravy, the stuffing, potatoes, yams and balance the cranberry sauce. 

A Riesling Grand Cru would be even more interesting with its intensely aromatic, fresh, elegant and crystal clear fruit and sharp mineral notes. The 2020 Meyer-Fonne “Wineck-Schlossberg” ($50) is quite energetic, with ripe fruit, finesse and racy precision. 

Alsatian Gewürztraminer is another favorite of mine and can make a good pairing. I love the grapefruit and lychee fruit and warm spice, presented with an unctuous texture, as in the 2019 Trimbach Gewurztraminer d”Alsace ($34). These qualities enable it to deftly hold up to the variety of flavors and textures, sweet and savory. And it carries its higher alcohol (14.5%) with balance. Even more so, the 2017 Lucien Albrecht “Spiegel Grand Cru” ($35) delivers intense aromas and flavors with a luscious, lavish texture.

Now that we have dinner covered, what about an aperitif or something for dessert? Namely bubbly, known as Crémant d’Alsace, for both. Made using the Champagne Method with pinot noir or chardonnay (occasionally with pinot blanc, pinot gris or riesling). 

A good example is the Lucien Albrecht Brut Rose ($23). This 100 percent pinot noir offers crisp strawberry and raspberry with finesse and a creamy palate. The 2019 Domaine Christophe Mittnacht “Terres d’Etoiles” Extra Brut ($29) made with certified biodynamic pinot auxerrois, pinot blanc, riesling, pinot gris, and pinot noir, is elegant, and fresh with intriguing sherry notes. Each has a flavor profile and acidity structure that actually also would work well the meal. 

Zinfandel is a special grape. But it is underappreciated. It has the second largest production in California next to Cabernet Sauvignon. But is the fourth in sales. It’s time we do our part to move Zinfandel up on the list.

Characteristics include exuberance, bold, succulent red berries, peppery spice, anise, a wild quality, and moderate tannin, but almost always with significant alcohol. The wines in my tastings ranged from 14.5% to 15.9% alcohol. Most of the best wines are under $50 and there are countless excellent wines under $30. It can improve with age, is food friendly, and usually a fine value.

With numerous appellations featuring superior vineyard sources, Sonoma County arguably is the premier zinfandel producer. I have two fine examples from the Dry Creek Valley. Quivira’s 2019 Anderson Ranch ($50), from an organic vineyard located in the venerated Lytton Springs corridor, bursts with briar, blackberry, licorice, black pepper; its 2019 Black Boar ($55), an organic blend of Anderson Ranch and Wine Creek Ranch fruit, is impressively rich, zesty, concentrated, with luscious dark berries. Dutcher Crossing’s 2019 Maple Vineyard ($51) from dry farmed, head pruned vines in the Lytton Springs corridor, shows abundant red berries, caramel and richness. 

There are also fine Sonoma County values: 2021 Seghesio ($26) bright, bold, raspberry, savory, anise, cinnamon; 2021 Quivira Dry Creek Valley ($28); 2021 Head High ($28) lively, ripe, rich, cherry, spice.

Though Napa Valley is best known for world class Cabernet, surprisingly there is also fine Zinfandel. Like the 2021 Frank Family ($45) succulent red and black fruit, lightly spicy.

The Sierra Foothills is one of the oldest wine growing regions in California, with the first zinfandel grapes planted in California in the mid-1800s. A fine example is the 2019 Renwood Estate Grown Renwood Ranch ($25) rich blackberry, plum, tobacco, cinnamon, licorice, vanilla. And the Napa-based Rombauer 2020 California ($38), a blend of 77% Sierra Foothills with some Napa and Lake County fruit; full-bodied, fruit-forward, super ripe, vanilla, rich. 

East of Oakland, Contra Costa County is known for growing fine old vine zinfandel and Rhône varieties. The 2020 Cline Ancient Vines ($16) is a longtime favorite; bright, black and red berries, nutmeg, herbal, smooth. 

Lodi is synonymous with Zinfandel and accessibly priced wine. Two wines from Oak Ridge signify: 2020 OZV Old Vine ($15) OZV is a portfolio dedicated to old vine varieties sourced from Lodi growers; earthy, fresh, blueberry, licorice, smooth texture. And 2020 Moss Roxx Estate Grown Old Vine Reserve ($24) offers dense black raspberry, toast and spice.

In the heart of California’s Central Coast, Paso Robles sources high quality cabernet sauvignon, Rhône varieties and, yes, zinfandel. The 2020 Ancient Peaks Santa Margarita Ranch ($22) shows enticing, zesty, mixed berries, and savory pepper.

America has become serious about rosé. It’s now the third ranking producer and consumer. And its popularity is mostly for higher quality dry rosés. These wines are great with food as well as an aperitif. They are crisp and refreshing with flavors similar to red wine but drinking more like white wine. This column focuses on Italy and California with side trips to Austria, Spain and Chile.

Rosato, as it is known in Italy, is found up and down the peninsula and is produced from numerous native grape varieties. 

Veneto: 2022 Scaia ($15) rondinella, a traditional Valpolicella variety; raspberries, peach, tangy

Tuscany: 2022 Capezzana “Vin Ruspo” ($19) organic sangiovese, small amounts of cabernet sauvignon and canaiolo from Carmignano; tart, cherry pie

Marche: 2022 Garofoli “Kómaros” ($14) montepulciano; intense watermelon

Puglia: 2022 Li Veli “Torrerose” ($15) negroamaro, juicy cherry

2022 Li Veli Susumaniello “Askos” ($25) ancient grape; raspberry, spicy, herbal

Sicily: 2021 Sallier de La Tour “Madamarosè” ($21): syrah; fresh, lively rhubarb, savory 

California seems to have latched on to pinot noir as the grape of choice. Its rosés tend to the brisk acidity of sharper red fruits. Some also are labeled “Vin Gris”. The wines below are 100% pinot noir unless otherwise noted. 

Sonoma: 2022 Ram’s Gate ($40) Sonoma County; 51% pinot noir, 49% mourvèdre; fuller body, intense, spicy red berries

2021 Naidu ($30) Sonoma Coast; mostly estate fruit; crips strawberry, cherr

2022 Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County ($22) Russian River Valley and Carneros fruit; crisp, savory, strawberry, rhubarb, cranberry

2022 Sonoma-Cutrer ($25) Russian River Valley; tangy red berries, rhubarb, spice

2021 Sebastiani ($28) from the Sonoma side of Carneros; exuberant, strawberry, watermelon, touch of mint 

Napa: 2022 Frank Family “Leslie” ($50) from Napa side of Carneros; fresh, vibrant, cherry, peach, citrus

2022 Bouchaine “Vin Gris” ($29) from the Napa Valley side of Carneros; labeled Vin Gris of Pinot Noir; lively, strawberry, watermelon, nectarine

Santa Barbara: 2022 Fiddlehead Cellars “Pink Fiddle” ($32) from a small single vineyard in the western end of the Sta. Rita Hills; deep, succulent cherry, light spice 

2022 Alma Rosa “Vin Gris” ($38) from the El Jabali estate vineyard in Sta. Rita Hills; complex, elegant, mouthwatering, saline 

Austria: 2022 Triebaumer Reserve ($14) blaufränkisch – known as Lemberger in Germany; juicy, vibrant, peach, raspberry, strawberries, pear 

2022 Weingut Bründlmayer ($18) Zweigelt – most widely planted red grape in Austria – a crossing of blaufränkisch and St-Laurent; organic, strawberry, cherry, floral, yeasty, lively

Spain: 2022 Conde Valdemar ($18) 85% garnacha,15% viura from family-owned vineyards in Rioja; cherry, roses, red berries, smooth, fresh 

Argentina: 2020 Otronia “45 Rugientes” ($30) organic pinot noirfrom Patagonia, fermented with native yeasts; red fruit, pink pepper, flowers, persistent 

In recent years, I have observed more of my family and friends telling me that Sauvignon Blanc is one of their favorite wine. Although it originated in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley, it also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, Chile, South Africa, and Australia. This column focuses on California.

The grape’s flavor profile comes in several styles, though it’s usually assertively aromatic, with refreshing acidity. Generally, expect brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) but also other citrus (grapefruit) and occasionally stone fruit and a distinctive (sometimes spicy) herbaceousness. Some also are evocative of fresh cut hay or grass. Wines made from riper fruit (usually the more expensive ones) often display melon, nectarine, peach, or even tropical fruits. 

NOTE: Wines are listed in order of preference within each category but all are recommended. 

I found a number of good values: they generally are ebullient, spry with a focus on varietal fruit but all display the grape’s trademark refreshing character. 

• 2022 Dry Creek Vineyard Sonoma County Fumé ($20) juicy, citrus, gooseberry
• 2022 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($25) tropical fruit, melon, spicy herb 
• 2022 Ancient Peaks Paso Robles ($18) juicy lemon-lime, sea salt, apple, ginger 
• 2021 The Paring California ($25) fresh, lively, lemon, melon, grassy, peach 
• 2022 Ferrari-Carano Fumé North Coast ($21) crisp citrus, tropical and stone fruit
• 2022 Markham Napa Valley ($24) fresh grapefruit, citrus zest, spice

For a few extra dollars, I found more complexity and intensity in the following wines. 

• 2022 Cliff Lede Napa Valley ($35) pear, peach, brisk citrus, oaky weighty
• 2021 Quivira Dry Creek Valley Fig Tree Vineyard ($30) fresh citrus, apricot, herbs 
• 2021 Chalk Hill “Chalk Hill Estate” ($38) vibrant citrus, caramel, lush
• 2022 Fiddlehead “La Pressa Vineyard” Santa Ynez Valley ($36) from old vines on a historic site in the Los Olivos District, racy grapefruit, gooseberry, ginger 
• 2022 Rombauer Sonoma /Napa ($28) bright grapefruit, melon, smooth
• 2022 Silverado Miller Ranch Yountville Estate ($30) lively citrus, oats, herbal

At higher prices, the wines tend to feature more use of different fermenting and aging vessels, along with practices such as lees stirring to build complexity and texture. These wines share a complex profile of bright, ripe fruit, and sophisticated, rich textures. As good as the above wines are, these are really special.

• 2021 Spottswoode ($45) Sonoma/Napa County blend, amazingly flavorful, refreshing, complex, hints of oak, herbaceous, citrus, peach, minerality 
• 2022 Chalk Hill “Windy Ridge” ($52) special clone, single block, very aromatic, grapefruit, tropical fruit, green apple, rich texture
• 2022 Gamble “Gamble Vineyard” Yountville ($45) crisp, complex, stone fruits, minerals
• 2021 Brandlin Estate Mt. Veeder ($45) citrus, stone fruits, oak, succulent
• 2022 Priest Ranch “Block 71” Napa Valley ($48) special selection, grapefruit, guava, licorice 

Italy’s distinctive geography (and culture and history) produces arguably the widest diversity of wines anywhere on the planet. There also is a cornucopia of native varieties producing mostly region-focused, small production wines well worth seeking out. If there is a common thread along the peninsula, they all offer intense aromatics and refreshing character. Recommended wines from my recent tasting are listed by region from North to south.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia

2020 Russiz Superiore Sauvignon ($31) from Collio near the border with Slovenia in view of the Alps and Adriatic Sea; juicy grapefruit, herbs, nuts 

Trentino-Alto Adige

2020 Alois Lageder “Versalto” Pinot Bianco ($28) from select vineyards in the Alpine valleys (Dolomites) north of Verona; biodynamic, mountain air, lively apricot, lush

Veneto 

2020 Inama Soave Classico “Carbonare” ($30) garganega grapes from single vineyard; pear, nectarine, apricot, with almond, lush texture

Pasqua “Hey French: You Could Have Made This But You Didn’t” ($40) multivintage blend of garganega with pinot bianco and sauvignon, from vineyards on the Verona side of Monte Calvarina; surprisingly complex with richness and freshness

Marche

2021 Garofoli “Supèra” Verdicchio di Matelica ($16) from vineyards at the base of the Apennines; juicy pear, plum, solid structure 

Sardinia (Sardegna) 

2021 Surrau “Branu” Vermentino di Gallura ($20) from estate vineyards; crisp citrus, some weight, chalky hints 

Tuscany (Toscana)

2018 Frescobaldi “Massovivio” Vermentino ($22) from the Frescobaldi’s Ammiraglia estate; floral, succulent, minerally

Abruzzo

2021 La Valentina Pecorino ($18) organic, biodynamic, (old variety once thought extinct but resurrected by La Valentina); intense, brisk apple, cashew 

Sicily 

Catarratto. Ancient grape, historically used in Marsala wine and blends, full-bodied dry, deep citrus, floral elements 

2020 Feudo Disisa “Lu Bancu” ($22) tart, herbal nuttiness

2020 Gorghi Tondi “Midor” ($18) organic, lime, tight, lively

2020 Cottanera “Barbazzale” ($19) fresh, citrusy, herbal

Zibibbo (Moscato di Alessandria). Very ancient grape originated in Egypt; often used for dessert wines; intensely aromatic dry wines of orange, stone fruits, almond. 

2020 Donnafugata “Lighea” ($24) persistent freshness, mineral

2020 Mandrarossa “Costadune Secco” ($18) tropical fruit, mint, lip-smacking 

Grillo. Another ancient variety historically a component of Marsala and blends but also a fine dry wine of citrus, apple, and refreshing acidity.

2020 Planeta “La Segreta” ($20) sauvignon-like herbal citrus

2020 Donnafugata “Sur Sur” ($22) crisp apple, lemon, light spice 

2019 Cantine Ermes “Quattro Quarti” ($19) juicy tropical fruit, hint of black tea

Insolia (Inzolia). Again, historically a component of Marsala and many blends but it is delightfully nutty, citrusy, herbal as a dry varietal wine. 

2019 Principi di Butera “Carizza” ($17) tangy stone fruits

2020 Baglio di Pianetto ($15) organic, citrus, nitty

2021 Sallier de la Tour Inzolia ($15) citrus, stone fruits, mineral 

Etna Bianco. Mount Etna, the tallest, most active volcano in Europe also happens to overlook suddenly prized volcanic soils, old vines, and multiple microclimates vineyards. Wines are mostly carricante.

2019 Terra Costantino ($27) organic, tight, pear, savory 

2021 Duca di Salaparuta “Lavico” ($26) lively tropical, savory, mineral

During summer’s warm months, white wines provide welcome tonic. Add the refreshing bubbles of sparkling wine and you have the ideal summer drink. And Americans are bubbling over with demand for sparkling wine. Americans are sipping more of the frothy drink than ever before. 

It may be surprising to some but Italy is a leading bubbly producer. Most known to consumers likely is Prosecco, the fresh, fruity, delicate, lower alcohol sparkler made with Charmat, or tank, method. 

• Adami Bosco di Gica Brut ($22) round, lightly sweet 
• 2021 Adami Col Credas Extra Brut ($26) very dry, refreshing 
• 2019 Valdo “Numero 10” Brut ($30) uniquely uses Champagne, or bottle fermentation, method; intense citrus, tight frame, touch anise

You may expect Lambrusco (name of the red grape and the wine; made with tank method) from Emilia-Romagna to be cloyingly sweet but artisan producer Cleto Chiarli makes it mostly dry from estate-grown grapes. They are a uniquely delicious and versatile drink. 

• 2022 Vigneto Cialdini ($18) fresh, luscious, firm, savory 
• 2022 Vecchia Modena Premium Brut ($18) fresh, lively, deeply fruitful
• 2021 Fondatore Secco ($21) bottle fermented, very dry, deep fruit
• Brut di Noir Rosé Vino Spumante di Qualità ($16) tart, juicy, easy drinking 
• Centenario “Amabile” ($14) succulent, delightfully semi-sweet, crisp 

Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti from the southern Piemonte, made with moscato bianco grapes using the tank method, are delightfully sweet, balanced with refreshing acidity, and very low alcohol (7% and 5% respectively). 

• Capetta Asti Dolce ($15) crisp apple, pear and peach
• Acquesi Asti ($15) brisk fruity peach, orange, lemon
• 2021 Vietti Moscato d’Asti ($16) luscious, lemony, honeyed, lower pressure

Italy also excels in Champagne method bubbly (known as Metodo Classico) made with the Champagne grapes chardonnay and pinot noir that can achieve equal quality to French Champagne. 

Many consider “Franciacorta” from Lombardia to be Italy’s finest Metodo Classico. The Majolini Rosé “Altéra” ($55) certified organic, 100% pinot noir, shows minerality and structure.

“Alta Langa” from southern Piemonte reportedly was Italy’s first sparkling wine, dating to the mid-1800s. The 2018 Enrico Serafino “Oudeis” Brut Rosé ($31), 100% pinot noir, offers sophisticated red fruits and light toast. 

California and Oregon also make fine sparkling wines. The best use the Champagne method and the Champagne grapes pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot meunier. And the growth in this sector for both states is a testament to the quality. 

2019 Cuvaison Brut Rosé ($60): estate grown, vibrant raspberry, pink grapefruit, rich, luscious  

Gran Moraine Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Brut Rosé ($60) estate grown, intense citrus, apple, peach 

Naidu Brut North Coast ($34) first Indian immigrant, female-operated winery in the U.S.; succulent pear, grapefruit 

2021 Robert Hall Cavern Select Brut Paso Robles ($40) 100% grenache blanc, concentrated lemon, light cream

NOTE: wines are nonvintage unless otherwise stated.

Chardonnay and its parent pinot noir have long been closely related. No surprise we often find them growing successfully in the same regions, like Burgundy and Oregon. And the cooler coastal climates of California. 

Pinot Noir produces light- to medium-bodied wines notable for aromas and flavors of cherry, plum, earth and brown spice with a silky, ethereal palate. Chardonnay produces rather full wines for a white and aromas and flavors of fresh citrus, apple or tropical fruit, occasionally with nuttiness and creaminess. 

These wineries, listed alphabetically, are fine examples of how these grapes and wines go together.

Alma Rosa (El Jabalí Estate Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills) 

Just ten miles from the cooling effects of the Pacific Ocean; certified organic: 2020 Chardonnay ($50), 2020 Pinot Noir ($85) 

Bouchaine (Estate Vineyard, Carneros)

Shallow clay loam soils and cooling breezes from San Pablo Bay, sustainable: 2020 Chardonnay ($35), 2020 Pinot Noir ($40) 

Calera (Central Coast)

Blended from well-regarded vineyards from Livermore to the Santa Ynez Valley: 2021 Chardonnay ($28), 2021 Pinot Noir ($32) 

Cuvaison (Estate Grown, Carneros)

Gently rolling hills of certified-sustainable estate cooled by fog off San Pablo Bay: 2021 Chardonnay ($35), 2021 Pinot Noir ($42) 

Gary Farrell (Russian River Selection, Russian River Valley)

From some of the winery’s top vineyard sources with ocean and river influences: 2021 Chardonnay ($40), 2021 Pinot Noir ($50) 

FEL (Anderson Valley, Mendocino)

From multiple vineyards in Anderson Valley about a dozen miles from the ocean: 2021 FEL Anderson Valley ($34), 2021 FEL Anderson Valley ($42) 

Frank Family (Carneros)

Grapes from the winery’s Lewis Vineyard, Beckstoffer Vineyards in Napa-Carneros and Sangiacomo Vineyards in Sonoma-Carneros: 2021 Chardonnay ($40), 2021 Pinot Noir ($40) 

The Hilt (Estate Grown, Sta. Rita Hills)

From three distinct vineyards in the southwestern corner of the Sta. Rita Hills: 

2020 The Hilt Estate ($50), 2020 The Hilt Estate ($50) 

Ladera (Pillow Road Vineyard, Russian River Valley) 

Sebastopol Hills in Goldridge sandy loam soils just 10 miles from the ocean: 2020 Chardonnay ($60), 2020 Ladera Pinot Noir ($75) 

Lynmar Estate (Quail Hill Vineyard, Russian River Valley)

Lynmar’s original vineyard in the heart of the Russian River Valley: 2018 Chardonnay ($68), 2018 Pinot Noir ($76) 

MacRostie (Nightwing Vineyard, Sonoma Coast)

New vineyard in the mountainous eastern edge of the Petaluma Gap: 2021 Chardonnay ($52), 2021 Pinot Noir ($62) 

Migration (Sonoma Coast)

Blends of vineyards just a few miles from the cooling effects of the ocean: 2021 Chardonnay ($44), 2021 Pinot Noir ($46) 

Presqu’ile (Presqu’ile Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley) 

In the southwestern hills of the valley with a view of the ocean: 2020 Chardonnay ($48), 2020 Pinot Noir ($62) 

Ram’s Gate (Estate Vineyard, Carneros) 

Organically farmed, straddles Sonoma Valley, Sonoma Coast, and Carneros: 2020 Chardonnay ($76), 2020 Pinot Noir ($85) 

Sea Slopes (Fort Ross Vineyards & Winery, Sonoma Coast) 

Coastal terrain, cool marine influences produce an approachable, elegant style: 2021Chardonnay ($30), 2021 Pinot Noir ($35) 

The Santa Cruz Mountains AVA (American Viticultural Area) is one of the lesser-known wine regions of California among consumers. I’m here to change that. In addition to breathtaking ocean and mountain vistas, the world-class wines are becoming a major draw.

The AVA was established in 1981 using the “ European model” of climatological and geophysical aspects (primarily elevation) instead of political boundaries. From just south of San Francisco it stretches down the peninsula almost to Monterey Bay with the Pacific Ocean to the west and the San Francisco Bay and Santa Clara Valley to the east. Even with significant growth since the 1960s that has accelerated in the 21st century, the region is mostly characterized by smaller, family-owned vineyards and wineries. 

Winegrape production is divided roughly evenly among Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and “Other Varieties”. This column makes recommendations for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. My next column covers exciting developments with Pinot Noir. 

Cabernet Sauvignon

2019 RIDGE Monte Bello Vineyard ($245) Winegrowing along and up Monte Bello Ridge began in the 1870s. Since 1962, Ridge has championed what it describes as a “pre-industrial approach” to single-vineyard winemaking. Monte Bello Cabernets from Ridge are iconic, long considered a “grand cru” of California wine. Notably they present an elegant European style as much as a full fruited American style. This one has layers of complexity, vanilla, minerals, cocoa, currant; balanced, yet revealing the structure to enable evolution, possibly for decades.

2018 Mount Eden Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains ($110) Small historic wine estate founded in 1945 by Martin Ray; located on a mountain peak, it is one of the original “boutique” California wineries; earth, herb, graphite accent plum and blue fruits, dryly tannic, tightly wound structure yet supple texture, will develop even more complexity with lengthy cellaring.

2019 Vöcal Vineyards “Bates Ranch” ($95) Focused on single vineyard wines, Vöcal produced this from an allocation of hillside vines of the original dry farmed, own-rooted 1969 planting; quite rich, a bit of spice with ripe, fresh red berries touched with herbal notes. 

Chardonnay

2019 Thomas Fogarty Winery Langley Hill Vineyard ($68) Established in 1976, employs organic, sustainable, and biodynamic practices; delightful brisk citrus and nectarine with hints of stone and juicy palate

2021 Sandar & Hem Wines Mountain Winery Vineyard ($52) Winery is barely five years old but the dedication to capturing the essence of the terroirs of the AVA, this one is from a Paul Masson planted vineyard; tightly impactful citrus balanced with round nut and spicy lemongrass

2021 Beauregard Vineyards Ben Lomond Mountain “Bald Mountain” ($65) Originally planted around 1880, the Beauregard family has farmed this property since 1945; intense and brash with zesty citrus and chalky notes

Over the last two decades, Argentina has established itself as one of the most important wine producing countries on the planet. While malbec has emerged as its signature grape and among the U.S.’s most popular wines, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, chardonnay and torrontes also are making world class wines. 

Most of the wines come from the high-altitude Mendoza region near the Andes Mountains. As evidenced in this column, most deliver serious flavor and immediate drinkability at reasonable prices. But, as my tastings showed there also are super fine, top quality, ageable wines being produced.

Trapiche. One of Argentina’s largest and oldest producers, offers a variety of tiers to showcase the abundance of Mendoza. It is Argentina’s largest exported brand. My tasting included fresh, bold, structured samples from the top tier Medalla line: 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon ($25); 2020 Malbec ($25).

Trivento. This large production winery is owned by Chile’s Concha y Toro and is a certified B Corporation focusing on sustainable winemaking, business, social and environmental standards within its operations, supply chain and community. The Reserve line presents velvety, balanced, values: 2021 Malbec (vegan, $11) 

Graffigna. Founded in 1870 in San Juan just north of Mendoza, it is the third oldest producer in in Argentina. The winery sources its grapes from both regions: plump, fresh 2021 Graffigna “Genuine Collection” Malbec ($12); bright, sleek, woodsy 2020 “Glorious Selection” Malbec ($19)

Argento. Also a leader in sustainability efforts, its vineyards are organic and Fair Trade certified. And this care is extended to their employees and surrounding communities. From estate grown grapes: fruit-forward 2020 “Estate Collection” Malbec ($20) pleasant; pure, fresh 2020 “Estate Collection” Malbec-Cabernet Franc ($20) 

Otronia. Innovative winery and vineyards in the Patagonia Extrema, the southernmost wine region of Argentina. The cold climate weather is often challenging, with extremely low rainfall and high speed winds reaching staggering levels. But it is also conducive to natural acidity, purity, intensity in the organically grown grapes: intense, flavorful 2019 Block III & VI Chardonnay ($90); brisk, delightful 2020 45 Rugientes Rosé ($45)

Susana Balbo. Family-owned winery founded by Susana Balbo, Argentina’s first female winemaker, in Mendoza in 1999. She is credited with creating the first world-class Torrontés. My tasting included several impressive samples: 2021 “Crios” Malbec ($15); 2022 Signature Torrontés ($25); 2020 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon ($25); and a special project of Susana Balbo, the deep, earthy, juicy 2020 BenMarco “Sin Limites” Organic Malbec ($29) 

Viña Cobos. Established in 1998 in Mendoza by renowned California winemaker Paul Hobbs to produce luxury-class Malbec-based wines. Hobbes has consulted with many wineries in Argentina. But this is the one he owns. Bright, firm, spicy 2021 Felino Malbec ($22); concentrated plush 2020 Cocodrilo Corte ($30) malbec/cabernet sauvignon; enticing, concentrated, plush 2018 “Vinculum” Malbec ($70) 

Argentina’s Red Wines: More than Malbec (But Mostly Malbec)

Over the last two decades, Argentina has established itself as one of the most important wine producing countries on the planet. While malbec has emerged as its signature grape and among the U.S.’s most popular wines, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, chardonnay and torrontes also are making world class wines. 

Most of the wines come from the high-altitude Mendoza region near the Andes Mountains. As evidenced in this column, most deliver serious flavor and immediate drinkability at reasonable prices. But, as my tastings showed there also are super fine, top quality, ageable wines being produced.

Trapiche. One of Argentina’s largest and oldest producers, offers a variety of tiers to showcase the abundance of Mendoza. It is Argentina’s largest exported brand. My tasting included fresh, bold, structured samples from the top tier Medalla line: 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon ($25); 2020 Malbec ($25).

Trivento. This large production winery is owned by Chile’s Concha y Toro and is a certified B Corporation focusing on sustainable winemaking, business, social and environmental standards within its operations, supply chain and community. The Reserve line presents velvety, balanced, values: 2021 Malbec (vegan, $11) 

Graffigna. Founded in 1870 in San Juan just north of Mendoza, it is the third oldest producer in in Argentina. The winery sources its grapes from both regions: plump, fresh 2021 Graffigna “Genuine Collection” Malbec ($12); bright, sleek, woodsy 2020 “Glorious Selection” Malbec ($19)

Argento. Also a leader in sustainability efforts, its vineyards are organic and Fair Trade certified. And this care is extended to their employees and surrounding communities. From estate grown grapes: fruit-forward 2020 “Estate Collection” Malbec ($20) pleasant; pure, fresh 2020 “Estate Collection” Malbec-Cabernet Franc ($20) 

Otronia. Innovative winery and vineyards in the Patagonia Extrema, the southernmost wine region of Argentina. The cold climate weather is often challenging, with extremely low rainfall and high speed winds reaching staggering levels. But it is also conducive to natural acidity, purity, intensity in the organically grown grapes: intense, flavorful 2019 Block III & VI Chardonnay ($90); brisk, delightful 2020 45 Rugientes Rosé ($45)

Susana Balbo. Family-owned winery founded by Susana Balbo, Argentina’s first female winemaker, in Mendoza in 1999. She is credited with creating the first world-class Torrontés. My tasting included several impressive samples: 2021 “Crios” Malbec ($15); 2022 Signature Torrontés ($25); 2020 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon ($25); and a special project of Susana Balbo, the deep, earthy, juicy 2020 BenMarco “Sin Limites” Organic Malbec ($29) 

Viña Cobos. Established in 1998 in Mendoza by renowned California winemaker Paul Hobbs to produce luxury-class Malbec-based wines. Hobbes has consulted with many wineries in Argentina. But this is the one he owns. Bright, firm, spicy 2021 Felino Malbec ($22); concentrated plush 2020 Cocodrilo Corte ($30) malbec/cabernet sauvignon; enticing, concentrated, plush 2018 “Vinculum” Malbec ($70)