California Cabernet Sauvignon New Releases

Cabernet Sauvignon has been the most popular red wine among U.S. consumers for decades and California Cabs are the biggest sellers. A style that has emphasized richness and concentration, pronounced ripe fruit and lavish oak, has been dialed back somewhat recently in favor of more balance. The most successful wines still offer solid fruit, supple texture, and refined tannins resulting in wines enticing to drink now but able to improve with age.

 

Top Values – expect fine quality at an attractive price:

 

2013 Rodney Strong Alexander Valley ($28). This is a perennial value with admirable complexity and refined tannins, enabling it to entice the drinker into early consumption but also tempt to wait a few years to see how it develops.

2012 Murphy Goode Alexander Valley ($26). This 100% Cab wine shows lush, soft fruit and texture wit a balancing touch of oak.

2012 Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley ($25). From Hillside and Benchland vineyards, with dollops of petit verdot, malbec, merlot and cabernet franc, it’s inviting right now but will improve for several years.

2012 Pedroncelli “Block 007” ($25). Estate grown 100% Dry Creek Valley Cab delivers pleasant, tart red fruits offset with light herb and the oak notes.

2013 Educated Guess Napa Valley ($20). Delightfully flavorful and approachable, has lots of character and appeal for the money.

2012 Old Soul Lodi ($14). Surprisingly bold, spicy and assertive with just enough character for the grill.

 

Sweet Spot of Quality/Value – more money is rewarded with high quality:

 

2012 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($50). This is a fabulous tribute to the craft of blending. It’s only 75 percent cabernet with 17 percent merlot and drips of cabernet franc, petite verdot and malbec from five vineyards. Quintessentially Napa.

2012 Murphy-Goode “Terra a Lago” ($40). From a vineyard in the foothills of the Mayacamas Range, this 100 % Cab offers good complexity and structure with admirable ripeness.

2012 Clos du Val Napa Valley ($38). Known for exhibiting a French touch with Napa fruit, this meets expectations balancing solid structure with a bright core of fruit.

2013 Jackson Estate Alexander Valley ($36). A really fine example of Sonoma Cab (with small percentages of merlot, malbec, cabernet franc and petit verdot), its higher elevation fruit yields an intense yet balanced wine with enticing complexity.

2013 J. Lohr “Hilltop” ($35). A perennial favorite from Paso Robles, its lush red fruit melds nicely with savory notes.

 

Splurges – for those special times when a special bottle is desired:

 

2012 Miner Stagecoach Vineyard ($75). From a highly regarded vineyard in the eastern hills of Atlas Peak in southern Napa Valley, this high elevation fruit impresses with earthy character, ripeness and firm structure.

2012 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($72). This company that made its name with Merlot also produces top quality Cabernet Sauvignon (and Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Blends). This one is typically highly structured and expected to be long lived.

2012 Cakebread Napa Valley ($65). Exemplary Napa Cab with loads of fruit buttressed with solid structure; it will reward years of patience.

2013 Chappellet “Signature” ($60). Classic mountain-grown Cab, including fruit from Chappellet’s renowned Pritchard Hill, delivers on its reputation for power amid grace.

2012 Jackson Estate Hawkeye ($55). Another fine Kendall-Jackson high elevation Alexander Valley wine that is deeply fruited, highly structured and lusciously textured.

2012 Jordan Alexander Valley ($55). Bordeaux is the model for this perennial restaurant favorite. The new vintage reveals more intensity than usual but is still expectedly seductive.

 

NOTE: Featured image courtesy of Miner Family Vineyards

WINERIES THAT CELEBRATE EARTH DAY EVERY DAY

With the approach of Earth Day, many people and businesses turn their attention to issues concerning the environment, sustainability and the connections between generations. It is no different in the wine world. Actually, for many wineries every day is Earth Day. More and more wineries are committing to sustainable practices as their fundamental business model.

One of the leaders in this movement is the Benziger Family Winery. At this Sonoma Mountain winery established in 1980, sustainability is a family affair with around 24 members involved. Convinced that natural techniques yield more flavorful, aromatic grapes with more site-specific character, while improving the health of the estate, they converted the property into a biodynamic farm. Today, the family owns four certified biodynamic vineyard estates and every wine carries a green certification – sustainable, organic or biodynamic – from a third party. Try the 2012 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($20), Merlot ($20), 2013 Chardonnay ($16), and 2013 North Coast Sauvignon Blanc ($15) and see what I mean.

In Mendocino County, Parducci Wine Cellars has a long commitment to business social responsibility, reclaiming 100% of the water used in the cellars, using 100% green power and earth-friendly packaging, and becoming the nation’s first carbon neutral winery. They also are a reliable producer of value priced wine. But I suggest you check out the “True Grit Reserve” portfolio – 2014 Chardonnay, and 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Blend and Petite Sirah (each $30) – representing special selections of the best quality grapes.

 

Even in the famous Napa Valley most producers recognize the value of sustainable practices. Under the direction of famed winemaker Miljenko “Mike” Grgich (and now his daughter Violet) Grgich Hills Estate was one of the earliest adopters. Today, most of its vineyards are certified organic and biodynamic and the winery converted its electricity to solar power. See what skilled artisans can do with great grapes with these current releases: 2013 “Fume Blanc” ($30) and Chardonnay ($43) and 2012 Zinfandel ($35), Merlot ($43) and Cabernet Sauvignon ($65).

Oregon’s wine industry also has been in the forefront of sustainable practices and Stoller Vineyards has been one of its leaders. The Stoller family has farmed the property since in 1943. Now, its vineyards have attained organic and Biodynamic certification and the winery is certified organic for operations and processing. Add Salmon Safe and LIVE certified. The winery also is solar-powered and the first in the world to receive LEED Gold certification. From the 2013 vintage enjoy the Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($35) and Chardonnay ($30), and especially the Reserve Chardonnay ($35) and Pinot Noir ($45).

Packaging is another way producers enhance their environmental and economic bottom line. Newly released value brand Vin Vault offers its portfolio in a convenient box package that protects freshness (up to four weeks!) and offers energy savings in production, transportation and storage. Easy to open and reseal, portable, lightweight, and resistant to breakage, these are perfect for picnics and parties. Each 3-liter box holds the equivalent of four 750ml-sized bottles. Vin Vault is available in six varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Red Blend.

So, this Earth Day (and beyond) raise a glass of sustainable wine knowing you can drink well while doing good.

 

NOTE: Featured Image Courtesy of Wikipedia

VALUE WINES FOR EVERDAY DRINKING

Sometimes, I think I don’t write enough about affordable wines. Of course, what’s “affordable” is relative. Usually described in wine magazines as “good values” or “everyday wines,” these generally are defined as wines that deliver good quality –correct varietal character, clean fruit and a sense of character for a reasonable price – nowadays usually for $20 or less. Don’t expect fancy single vineyard expressions. Do expect tasty, inviting wines that you’ll swear are worth more than you paid.

Kendall-Jackson. From the original brand Jess Jackson (who passed away in 2011) started in 1983, Kendall-Jackson has grown into one of the world’s largest family-owned wine companies. The “Vintner’s Reserve” line is still the company’s backbone and these new red releases are as exemplary as the white wines the brand is best known for.

  • 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon ($24)
  • 2013 Merlot ($19)
  • 2013 Summation Blend ($17)
  • 2014 Syrah ($17)

Rodney Strong. Founded in 1959 by Rodney Strong and owned by Tom Klein since 1989, they have had the same winemaker in Rick Sayre since 1979. The winery has built its reputation on delivering quality from Sonoma’s best appellations. This includes its Sonoma County designated wines.

  • 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon ($20)
  • 2012 Merlot ($20)
  • 2013 Chardonay ($17)

Murphy-Goode. Located in the Alexander Valley region of Sonoma County, Murphy-Goode is a family-owned winery – twice. Founded 30 years ago by three friends, the winery now is part of Jackson Family Wines, while the original families are still involved. The fresh white wines below carry a California designation.

  • 2014 Chardonnay ($14)
  • 2014 Sauvignon Blanc “The Fume” ($14)
  • 2014 Pinot Grigio ($14)

Silver Palm. This relatively new label is focused on sourcing grapes from California’s coastal regions. Grapes for the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay, which are labeled North Coast, come mostly from Mendocino but also Napa and Sonoma. The Pinot Noir is sourced from the Central Coast vineyards, mostly Monterey with some Santa Barbara.

  • 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon ($19)
  • 2014 Merlot ($18)
  • 2014 Pinot Noir Central Coast ($18)
  • 2014 Chardonnay ($15)

 

Wild Horse. Located in San Louis Obispo County, this thirty-year-old winery was one of the pioneers of contemporary grape growing in the Central Coast. Originally focused on grapes from Paso Robles, they now produce a wide range of wines from vineyards throughout the Central Coast. The basic Central Coast line presents good introductions to the bounty of this area stretching roughly from Monterey to Santa Barbara.

  • 2012 “GSM” ($15)
  • 2014 Pinot Gris ($15)

The Federalist. The Federalist pays homage to our country’s Founding Fathers and their love of wine. The wines are crafted from grapes grown in Sonoma County and Lodi. The labels feature tributes to Alexander Hamilton, George Washington, John Adams and Ben Franklin. They even reference the Aaron Burr/Alexander Hamilton duel but curiously none reference Thomas Jefferson, the Founding Father most associated with wine. Notice the price on these Lodi wines.

  • 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon ($17.76)
  • 2014 Zinfandel ($17.76)

 

Josh Cellars. Founder Joseph Carr created this value line as a tribute to his father. Supplementing his namesake flagship wines, these are blended from North Coast grapes, especially Mendocino and Lake counties.

  • 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 2013 Legacy Blend
  • 2013 Sauvignon Blanc

WINES FROM MACEDONIA AND TURKEY

Is it coincidence that the “cradle of civilization” also is the likely origin of winemaking on the planet?

Although there isn’t absolute proof of those origins, the lands south of the Black Sea and east of the Mediterranean Sea have yielded the earliest known discoveries of winemaking dating at least 8000 years ago.

This includes the area known as Anatolia, comprising most of today’s Republic of Turkey, one of the oldest permanently settled regions in the world. The area also has a history of empire including those of Alexander the Great, Greek, Roman, and Byzantine, not to mention invasions from Mongols, Persians and Arabs. From 1300 to the early 1900s, Turkey was the base for the Ottoman Empire.

Throughout, there was grape growing and winemaking. Given this, I find it curious Turkish wines are seldom found on the shelves of U.S. wine stores. I hope that changes soon. I recently tasted two representative wines from indigenous grape varieties and, though an extremely small sample, I was quite impressed with the quality.

The wines are from Vinkara Winery in Kalecik, a small village in mountainous Anatolia. The red, a 2012 Kalecik Karasi Reserve (pronounced Kah-le-djic Car-ah-ser, $27) is medium bodied with bright red and black fruits, hints of spice and vanilla, with fresh acidity and a sleek texture. The white, a 2013 Narince (pronounced Nah-rin-djeh, $15) presents searing citrus and mineral notes followed by tight acid structure.

Although wines from the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia also are just beginning to emerge in international markets, like Turkey, they still haven’t entered the psyche of American wine drinkers. Yet, here too, there is a rich history of wine culture, dating at least back to 800 B.C.

This is the part of the Balkans that made up Yugoslavia whose break up in the early 1990s led to tragic ethnic conflict. The Republic of Macedonia is a landlocked country bordered by Kosovo, Serbia, Bulgaria, Greece, and Albania.

A brief review of the history of the area, again like Turkey, reveals millennia of conquests and empires. Most notably, Macedonia was the home of Alexander the Great who established one of the largest empires of the ancient period. The area has been under the influence of ancient Greece and later the Persian, Roman and Ottoman empires, the latter of which controlled Macedonia for over 500 years until its dissolution in the early 1900s.

Macedonia escaped much of the violence of the early 1990s but not the late 1990s, delaying improvements in trade and investment, including wine production, which only began to recover in the 2000s. In the last 15 years, though, the Macedonian wine industry has modernized dramatically but with a commitment to preserving indigenous varieties. Interestingly, my tasting revealed international grape varieties also do well here.

A vestige of this history, Macedonia has over 61,000 acres of vineyards, which are managed by 15,000 winemaking families and producers. I enjoyed wines from only two producers in the Tikves region, considered Macedonia’s vineyard heartland. But it was enough to convince me.

  • 2014 Stobi Zilavka (pronounced zhi-luv-ka, $11): fresh, nutty cashew and almond, lime and apricot
  • 2014 Stobi R’Katsiteli (pronounced Rkah-tsee-tely, $15): hay and stone, green apple and gooseberry, brisk with good body, tangy finish
  • 2013 Stobi Macedon Pinot Noir ($15): nice plum with a touch of earth and polished tannins
  • 2014 Bovin Chardonnay ($15): initially smells like Sauvignon Blanc, then develops intense aromatics and flavors of herbs and chalk with deep citrus and tropical fruit
  • 2013 Bovin Dissan ($30): made with the highly regarded vranec red grape there is plum and notes of fresh soil; medium body and quite flavorful with a sleek texture

So, if you are looking for something different or just feeling a bit adventurous, go to the source and try these ancient, yet modern wines. And if you can’t find them, urge your local retailer to stock them.

 

IPAs, ALES AND NITROS: REVIEWS OF BOSTON BEER CO’s NEW SEASONALS

One of the things I admire most about the Boston Beer Company is even as they have grown into the premier craft brewery and (last I checked) the tenth largest of any kind of brewery in the U.S., they have not relinquished the urge to innovate and experiment. The culture of innovation at Samuel Adams is evident in extreme beers like Utopias and in the Rebel IPA series and the new Nitro Project beers reviewed here.

 

 “Rebel” IPA Series

 

The Boston Beer Company introduced Samuel Adams “Rebel” IPA (the company’s first IPA brewed with only American hops and made in the brash “West Coast style”) in 2014 and it was an immediate hit. In the two years since, the company has released several iterations of Rebel IPA.

 

Building on Rebel’s success, which the brewer has marketed as a celebration of founder Jim Koch’s and Samuel Adams’ revolutionary (beer) spirit, they soon released Rebel Rouser Double IPA and Rebel Rider Session IPA. And now there are two more new Rebels for us to enjoy.

Rebel Grapefruit IPA (6.3% ABV, 52 IBUs)

 

Rebel Grapefruit IPA relishes the grapefruit character so often imparted especially by West Coast hop varieties by actually adding grapefruit juice and peel to augment the Mosaic, Cascade, Centennial, and Citra hops. Tropical and citrus notes compliment that classic grapefruit character.

 

Rebel Cascade IPA (7.3% ABV, 76 IBUs)

 

Rebel Cascade IPA of course, is a tribute to the Cascade hop (thought the brew is accented with Zeus, Simcoe and Summer hops). It presents as more to the piney, resinous end of the citrusy hop spectrum. But is enticingly rounded out with hints of sweetness from Caramalt and Honey Malt.

 

And on to other new releases:

 

Escape Route (5.0% ABV and 30 IBUs)

 

First brewed in 2014, Escape Route is a limited release, Kölsch style brew (Kölsch is an ale/lager hybrid originating in Cologne, Germany). It is delightful and easy drinking (or what is typically called “sessionable”) beer. This unfiltered drink uses Aramis (French) and Strisselspalt (German) hops, with Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend, acidulated malt, smoked barley, and carafoam malts.

 

Crystal Pale Ale (5.3% ABV, 35 IBUs)

 

No surprise, this pale ale features Crystal hops grown in Oregon, which give the beer its distinctive citrusy, floral American hop character, while the British varieties East Kent Goldings, and Fuggles supplement with earthiness.  Balance is provided by Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend, Maris Otter, and Honey Malt, which lend a deep yet subtle malt sweetness with notes of toffee.

 

Scotch Ale (5.5% ABV, 35 IBUs)

 

Rich and full-bodied as anticipated, with roasted and smokey notes, this one is lower alcohol than expected for this “strong ale” style. Its Munich 10, Caramel 60, Peat Malt (Scotland), and Chocolate Malt provide complexity, while the East Kent Goldings and Fuggles hops keep the whole thing fresh. It is a good introduction to the style.

 

Samuel Adams Session Ale (5.0% ABV, 30 IBUs)

 

Typical of the session style, this new release is light – light on hoppy character, light on malty notes – but pleasantly so. And being made in an Extra Special Bitter style, it also has a nice impact on entry, probably from its earthy English hops. Definitely one to sip and dream of warmer weather.

 

Samuel Adams Nitro Project

 

And finally, Samuel Adams has made its first foray into the world of nitro beers with the release of its first three brews from the Nitro Project – Nitro White Ale, Nitro IPA, and Nitro Coffee Stout. Nitro beers, of course, use nitrogen in place of carbon dioxide (although upwards of 30% CO2 often is still used) and are most commonly associated with porters and stouts.

 

While Guinness pioneered the nitrogenation process, and countless other craft breweries offer nitro beers on tap, the beers of Samuel Adams Nitro Project are a welcome addition to the small community of canned nitros. Each can is equipped with a nitrogen-filled “widget” that releases the gas into the beer once the top is popped.

 

[As an aside for Colorado readers, Longmont’s Left Hand Brewing Company has brewed Nitro Milk Stout for about 15 years and that has been joined by Sawtooth and Wake Up Dead. These nitros are bottled with the gas already dissolved. ]

 

Not surprisingly, when Samuel Adams decided to get into nitros, they weren’t content to just follow the crowd. In a press release, company founder Jim Koch said they brewed more than 50 beer styles on nitro and experimented with more than 200 recipes ranging from porters to Belgian sours before settling on these three.

 

Nitrogenation doesn’t necessarily make a beer better, just different. And these Samuel Adams brews should introduce a lot of beer drinkers to the process. With nitrogen compared to CO2, the resulting bubbles are smaller and create the rich, creamy texture familiar to nitro beers. These beers also show more malt character.

Nitro Coffee Stout (5.8% ABV, 32 IBUs)

 

As I mentioned earlier, the nitro process is ideal for stouts, so it’s not a surprise a stout is among the first releases of the nitro series. It is rich and robust as dark roasted Caramel 60, Special B and barley malts added to the basic Samuel Adams malt blend create toasty, chocolatey notes. These are accented with Sumatran Mandheling (Indonesia) and Indian Monsoon Malabar coffee, which definitely shine through the bouquet and palate while the East Kent Goldings hops are barely noticeable.

 

Nitro White Ale (5.5% ABV, 15 IBUs)

 

Reflecting its Belgian influences, orange peel, coriander and Grains of Paradise are added to the brew, along with white wheat, lending hints of citrus and peppery spice in the nose and mouth as a light wheat character peeks through. An extremely light hand with the (Citra) hops leave it smooth all the way through.

 

Nitro IPA (7.5% ABV, 100 IBUs)

 

So, of course IPAs are all about the hops and this one sports six varieties – Amarillo, Centennial, Galaxy, Polaris, Simcoe, and Zeus. Under any other circumstances, this brew would be considered a “hop monster” but the nitrogenation process reduces the acidic bite and perceived bitterness typical of carbonated IPAs. The aroma tends more toward the spicy/ piney/resinous end of the spectrum, yet some citrus emerges. Full and rich, it is plenty smooth and has a nice, long finish.

SIRAH, SYRAH

 

With winter’s cold settling in, I find myself craving heartier foods and heartier wines to accompany them. If you are looking for full flavored wines, too, especially ones that provide a lot of wine for the money, consider Petite Sirah and Syrah.

 

Until the last decade or so petite sirah was a largely unknown grape, used mostly for blending. Now, DNA testing has proven that the vast majority of what has been known by that name in California is actually durif, a variety that was propagated in the south of France in the 1880s by crossing the noble Rhone variety syrah and the obscure grape peloursin.

 

But the grape thrives in California. It often has been commented that there is nothing petite about Petite Sirah wines. While they often display a flavor profile similar to their parent syrah – dark berries, tobacco, leather, earth, mineral and pepper, with an ability to age well, they typically are wines of deep color, dense structure, rustic body and agibility.

 

A good introduction to the style is the 2013 Chronic Cellars “Suite Petite” ($15) with its big, brash fruit. Josh and Jake Beckett, whose parents own Peachy Canyon in Paso Robles, created this wine company focused on casual wines in 2008. And this wine delivers.

 

More serious is the 2013 Parducci “True Grit” Reserve ($30). In Mendocino County since 1932, Parducci was an early adopter of petite sirah and True Grit is their flagship wine. This vintage is meaty and woodsy with plenty of rustic tannins suggesting it’s best to let it evolve for a few years before enjoying.

 

Another pioneer of modern winemaking in Mendocino, Edmeades is best known for its Zinfandels. But their admirable 2012 Mendocino County Petite Sirah ($35) shows smoky, concentrated aromas and bright, spicy fruit, while a lush texture balances the initially tough tannins.

 

Since its establishment in 2005, Fulcrum Wines has distinguished itself as a Pinot Noir specialist. As the name Fulcrum indicates, the stated goal for the wines is balance, a quality that is a challenge to achieve with Petite Sirah. But, even while petite sirah is unusual for the pinot noir and chardonnay dominated Russian River Valley, Fulcrum has pulled it off with the 2012 “Landy Vineyard” ($45). Its ripe fruit is balanced with firm acidity, while its lush texture reveals ample tannins. It should gain complexity with time.

 

Syrah is widely recognized as one of the world’s great red wine grapes. At its best, its wines provide great concentration, complexity and elegance, with characteristic pepper, meat, and leather accents and an ability to develop for many years. Even a lower priced syrah will deliver forward fruit and a smooth texture that is just right for everyday drinking.

 

The 2013 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” Santa Barbara County ($17) is a good example of a value drive syrah. It has notes of resin, smoke and earth balanced with solid fruit, while its solid structure is presented seamlessly.

 

Bob Lindquist founded Qupé Winery in 1982 with a name to honor the Chumash, the indigenous people of the California’s Central Coast and Channel Islands. His 2012 Qupé Santa Barbara County Syrah ($30) is admirably suggestive of a French Rhone’s bold textural qualities. It is deep and spicy but also savory and elegant with a solid structure.

 

Finally, here’s a fantastic syrah-dominated blend from Washington: the 2012 Buty Walla Walla Valley “Rediviva of the Stones” Rockgarden Estate ($60). Buty Winery is the fifteen-year-old project of Nina Buty that has quickly taken a place among the state’s best. A blend of 78% syrah, 13% cabernet sauvignon and 9% mourvedre, this wine entices with its intense aromatics and flavors that deftly blend fruit and savory elements into a wine of lively elegance, yet enough structure to improve over the next ten years.

 

So, whether it is “sirah” or “syrah,” these substantial reds are ideal candidates for you’re your winter meals.

 

SPARKLING WINES FOR EVERYDAY MEALS

 

 

One of my favorite things about the holiday season is it provides prime opportunities to open special bottles of wine. And what makes a special occasion even more special? For many people, it’s a bottle of sparkling wine. Whether for parties, toasts, or even better a holiday meal, the holidays are prime time for indulging a bit if bubbly.

 

Of course, Champagne gets most of the buzz but effervescent wine is so popular, there are versions made in virtually every wine region. This column focuses on these other effervescent wines.

 

There is a lot of good French sparkling wine beyond Champagne (designated Crémant) and most are made using the “Methode Champenoise” (the Champagne Method where the second fermentation occurs in the bottle) but still much more affordable.

Crémant d’Alsace is one of the best of these. It typically is light and fruity but offers a nice measure of complexity. I found two Brut Rosés from two of the most important Crémant producers in Alsace, both 100% pinot noir. The Lucien Albrecht ($22) offers a crisp taste of strawberry and has finesse. The Pierre Sparr ($19) has fresh aromas of soft red berries and delicate, fruity flavors and lively acidity.

 

Crémant de Limoux comes from vineyards surrounding the town of Limoux in the Languedoc-Rousillon region, which lays claim to producing sparkling wine by a second fermentation in the bottle long before Champagne. Domaines Paul Mas “Cote Mas” Brut ($16), a blend of 60% chardonnay, 20% chenin blanc, 10% pinot noir and 10% mauzac, has enticing flowery, citrus and toast on the nose and pleasant pear, apple and lemon flavors.

 

Spanish Cava, also is produced by the traditional method. Long an affordable alternative to Champagne, it uses indigenous grapes (macabeo, xarel-lo, parellada) grown in the Penedès Valley in Catalonia not far from Barcelona.

Two of the most reliable producers are Codorníu and Paul Cheneau. Anna de Codorníu Brut ($15) celebrates the life of Codorníu’s last heiress. It was the first Cava to use chardonnay in its cuvee, 70 percent in this release that reveals some richness with a solid structure and a creamy texture. The Paul Cheneau Brut ($14) suggests a French influence with a creamy elegance and structure.

 

One of the best California sparkling wine producers, Gloria Ferrer, actually has a Spanish connection:it was founded by owners of Freixenet, the world’s largest producer of Methode Champenoise. Its impressive line of sparklers includes the Sonoma Brut ($22) is dominated by pinot noir with a touch of chardonnay. It best reflects the house style of fresh white fruits and mildly toasty elements delivered with a delicate, sleek texture. As a contrast, the Blanc de Blancs ($22) is all chardonnay. It’s crisp with citrus, apple and creamy vanilla. The Blanc de Noirs ($22) tantalizes with sweet sensations of pretty red fruits. Then presents a luscious palate that finishes with zest. Finally, the 2007 Royal Cuvée Brut Late Disgorged ($37) composed of 2/3 pinot noir and 1/3 chardonnay is the peak of Gloria Ferrer production. Apple, citrus, cherry, and vanilla make delightful appearances with a rich, creamy texture and a crisp finish.

 

Prosecco, from the hills north of Venice around the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, is made predominantly using the native glera grape using the Charmat Method. The bubbles are produced in large stainless steel tanks to preserve glera’s fresh aromas and clean, delicate fruit. Prosecco. With its soft bubbles and low alcohol it makes a great aperitif, probably why it is the traditional base for the famous Venetian cocktail, the Bellini.

One of its premier producers boasting a tradition in the area to 1542, is Bisol whose Desidero JEIO Brut ($17) shows delightful fresh apple, apricot and citrus. A real treat, the 2014 Crede Brut ($25) is an impressive single vineyard selection with a delicate mousse but intense fruit.

 

Other fine Prosecco worth seeking out: Mionetto Brut Treviso ($15) is a bit floral, with intense, fresh fruit; Mionetto Gran Rose Extra Dry ($15) is a fun alternative with red currant and pomegranate; Villa Sandi ($) produces another fine Prosecco from Treviso with ripe apple; Valdo Brut “Oro Puro” ($20) offers a fresh, lively style with evidence of greater complexity and fuller flavors.

 

WALLET A LITTLE THIN AFTER THE HOLIDAYS: SOME VALUES FOR TIGHT BUDGETS

 

With all its holidays and the associated parties and family gatherings, December may be the biggest month of the year for adventurous wine drinking opportunities. This also presents challenges deciding what (and what you can afford) to drink. Not to worry; I’m here to help.

 

For white wines, I prefer crisp, fruity, fragrant and food friendly. For reasonable prices, these wines also provide a refreshing combination of acidity and moderate alcohol.

 

Riesling, with its enticing aromatics, bracing acidity and apple, citrus and stone fruit flavors, is one of my favorite choices this time of year. One of Germany’s best, Dr. Loosen offers entry-level Rieslings produced with grapes from contracted growers. The 2012 Dr. L Dry ($14) is crisp and refreshing; the 2012 Dr. L ($14) is off dry, light and pleasantly fruity.

 

Pinot Gris, with fresh citrus, melon and more weight, provides a different drinking experience. The fruit forward, brisk and easygoing 2014 Willamette Valley Vineyards ($16) and the impressively rich and complex 2014 Raptor Ridge ($20) prove why this grape has emerged as the premier white wine of Oregon.

 

Another fun choice would be crisp, dry Alsatian versions of these grapes, like these from Hugel, a family owned company since 1639! The 2013 Riesling ($12) is aromatic and refreshing; the 2012 Pinot Gris “Classic” ($24) is a special selection revealing impressive weight and enticing nutty qualities. Also, check out the spicy lychee of the 2012 Gewürztraminer ($24) and the 2014 “Gentil,” a delicate but aromatic blend.

 

Sauvignon Blanc typically sports zesty white and green fruits (often grapefruit or gooseberry) and distinctive herbaceousness that pairs with multiple foods. The 2014 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($13) is notable for its lush texture. The 2104 Avant ($13) is lighter and fresher with more forward fruit.

 

Chardonnay continues to be the most popular wine among American consumers. So, expecting many of you will be looking for modestly priced but still flavorful Chardonnays, I suggest the juicy apple and light cream of 2013 Talbott “Kali Hart” ($20), the toasty, delicate apple of 2013 Old Soul ($14), and the brisk citrus of 2013 La Merika ($13).

 

Diversity is the message of the season for red wines, too. While I drink mostly full-bodied wines during cold weather months, I still find a place for light reds, especially when faced with a wide variety of foods to match. The 2014 Willamette Valley Vineyards “Whole Cluster” ($22) uses whole cluster fermentation of pinot noir to promote freshness and fruit. Light but still flavorful, the 2014 Balletto Rose of Pinot Noir ($18) shows delightfully crisp strawberry notes.

 

Zinfandel is always a good choice this time of year. Its brash red fruit and peppery accents compliment many foods. The 2013 Renwood Premier Old Vine ($20) reflects hefty, dense Amador fruit. The 2013 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($17) bursts with bright, fresh Mendocino berries. And two: 2013 OZV “Old Vine” ($11) and 2012 Concrete ($20) reveal jammy Lodi fruit.

 

Cabernet Sauvignon is the most popular red wine in America, second overall only to Chardonnay. These will satisfy your craving: 2013 Joel Gott “815” ($18) for its luscious red fruit, 2013 Decoy ($25) for its intense fruit and lush texture, and 2013 Our Daily Cab ($11) for its fresh tasting organic fruit (also vegan, gluten free and no added sulfites).

 

Finally, a multi-varietal red blend can be a fun alternative for any occasion. Different aromas and flavors from different grapes come together to make a whole that is better than the sum of its parts. I like these two from Chronic Cellars (by brothers Jake and Josh Beckett who worked for their family’s Peachy Canyon Winery). The 2014 Purple Paradise ($15) shows lots of nice juicy red fruits from zinfandel, syrah, petite sirah and grenache. The 2013 Dead Nuts ($24) bursts with berry flavors thanks to zinfandel, tempranillo and petite sirah. Also delightful is the 2013 Charles & Charles “Post No. 35” ($12), a voluptuous blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah.

 

WASHINGTON OFFERS FINES WINES FOR ANY BUDGET

When it comes to American wine, most of us tend to think of California. Certainly, California wine dominates production and store shelves. But we would be remiss if we did not seek out wines from other states. In this case, I’m thinking of Washington, the second largest wine producing state in the nation.

 

It’s amazing, in 1996 there were 80 wineries; today there are over 850. But more important has been the dramatic increase in quality. Here I have assembled just a few examples to hopefully encourage you to embark on your own exploration.

Buty Winery, the fifteen year old project of Nina Buty, has quickly taken a place among the state’s best. Notable for its commitment to a natural winemaking, Buty also focuses on crafting innovative blends. Such as the 2010 “Rediviva of the Stones” ($60) – syrah, cabernet sauvignon and mourvèdre, which entices with its intense aromatics and flavors of red and black fruits, pepper, baking spices, finesse, and lively mouthfeel.

 

Another signature of Buty wines is a lively, vibrant character as seen in the 2013 Semillon, Sauvignon and Muscadelle ($25), which entices with lively citrus and fig while also displaying creamy richness. Buty also produces a lower priced line called BEAST that sources a wider variety of grapes and  vineyards. The 2012 “Wildebeest” ($25) is a fine value combining syrah, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, malbec and mourvèdre to produce abundant plum and berry with leafy notes and a sleek texture.

 

The Middleton family has worked the land in Washington since 1898 but only established Cadaretta in Walla Walla in 2005.  Their dedication and experience shows in the 2011 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($40), fairly full-bodied with dense, ripe currant, hints of herbs and supple texture. Firm tannins should help it develop for 10 years.

Even more impressive is the 2011 “Springboard” ($50). Essentially Cadaretta’s reserve, it is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Petit Verdot. It exudes dark berries and plum accented with touches of earth, herbs and spice. While it is fairly full-bodied, with a welcoming mouth feel, strong tannins and abundant fruit suggest a long life.

 

Tom Hedges and Anne-Marie Liégeois established Hedges Family Estate in 1987 and are considered pioneers of Red Mountain appellation, which has become one of Washington’s most highly regarded regions. Today, their daughter, winemaker Sarah, and son, General Manager Christophe, carry on the family tradition. The 2012 Red Mountain ($27) – 60% cabernet sauvignon and 26% merlot with dabs of syrah, cabernet franc and malbec – shows bright cherry and red currant with herbs and tobacco balanced with fresh tannins that keep it all lingering on the finish.

The Hedges family also is respectful of their history, as is seen with the 2012 Descendants Liegeois Dupont “Cuvée Marcel Dupont” Les Gosses Vineyard ($27). A tribute to Anne-Marie’s grandfather, this Syrah tilts to the earthy and spicy side of the grape with fennel and black pepper dominating the sweet/tart cherry flavors.

 

Speaking of pioneers, for 53 years Columbia Winery has been a leader in the development of Washington wine. Now owned by Gallo, new Winemaker Sean Hails has replaced the late, iconic winemaker David Lake. Working closely with several well-established growers, Hails crafts wines that are more than anything just good values.

Wines like the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay ($14) are varietally correct, with lively fruit and an easy drinking style ideal for everyday enjoyment. On the other hand, the “Composition” Red Blend ($14), a multivintage blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, plus syrah, malbec, and petit verdot, has juicy blackberry and cherry with hints of spice, soft tannins and a lingering finish.

 

Finally, more good values are available from the Middleton family’s Buried Cane label. Try the 2013 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($14) for its sweet dark berries with hints of chalk, mint and pepper delivered on a soft palate with good grip on finish. The

2011 Columbia Valley Red Wine ($25) is more complex with dark fruits and forest notes, black licorice and black pepper.

 

Oregon Pinot Noir: Burgundy’s Premier Red Grape Finds a New World Home

 

Wine grapes have been grown in Oregon since the mid-1800’s but it really wasn’t until the 1960’s when the seeds, actually the vines, were sown for the development of the internationally renowned wine industry we know today. With nearly 700 wineries, the state has become synonymous with world class Pinot Noir.

 

Oregon also has blazed the trail in the sustainable agriculture movement with increasing numbers of wineries participating in certification programs like LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology, Inc.), “Salmon Safe”, organic and sustainable farming practices, and Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building certification.

 

But it still comes down to what’s in the bottle. As a group, the wines in this report show pure fruit, admirable ripeness and solid acidity. They aren’t inexpensive but most have avoided the price inflation of comparable wines from Burgundy and California.


When it comes to American Pinot noir, few possess the rich history and experience of Ponzi Vineyards. Dick and Nancy Ponzi planted their estate in 1970 within view of the nearby Chehalem Mountains and quickly became leaders in growing the Willamette Valley and Oregon wine in general to international recognition. Daughters Luisa and Maria Ponzi, Winemaker and President respectively, now continue the family tradition. The family also has been in the forefront of the responsible stewardship/sustainable agriculture movement.

 

And their wines are a fail-safe introduction to the Willamette Valley. The entry-level Tavola (2014, $25), made from younger estate vines and fruit from nearby growers, is a great value. The signature 2013 Willamette Valley ($40) has good balance and length with juicy black cherry and hints of vanilla, anise and sassafras, delivered with a sleek texture. The flagship 2012 Reserve ($60) is complex with abundant aromas and flavors of red berries and oak-imparted vanilla and spice but harmonizes power and elegance.

In 1983, Jim Bernau began planting what became Willamette Valley Vineyards. Since then, he and his partners have displayed innovation and forward thinking – from an intriguing community based funding model (today we call it “crowd funding”) and leadership in the responsible stewardship movement to grow into one of Oregon’s premier wineries.

 

An example of that creativity is the 2014 Whole Cluster ($22), made using partial carbonic maceration like Beaujolais and stainless steel fermentation. It is bright and fruity with appealing fresh berries. The 2013 Estate ($30) is inviting with lively red cherry and plum and light herb and tobacco notes, finishing with a fine grip. The 2012 Bernau Block ($55) is a single vineyard expression showing admirable complexity with bright red fruits accented by light touches of spice and licorice in a nicely structured frame.

Raptor Ridge is a location in the Chehalem Mountains and the name of the winemaking project Scott Shull founded just 20 years ago. He oversees winemaking and his partner Annie directs marketing and sales. Their 2013 Barrel Select Willamette ($30) is a nice cuvée from multiple vineyard sites; very approachable red and dark fruit, with suggestions of mint and tannin. The 2012 Estate Vineyard ($45) is excellent with ripe and round plum and red cherry scents, noticeable oak, fine tannin, and savory mocha notes on the finish.

 

Left Coast Cellars is another young winery, in this case founded in 2003 by Suzanne and Robert Pfaff. And they are another Oregon winery dedicated to sustainability and community. Also, the wines are made from estate fruit, even the entry-level 2013 Cali’s Cuvee ($24). Intended for early enjoyment, it’s light flavors of plums and strawberries benefit with a bit of earth. The signature single vineyard wine, 2013 Latitude 45° ($36) displays dark cherry, baking spices and tea leaves delivered in a graceful palate.

Finally, enjoy the first foray into Oregon by California’s Jackson Family Wines, under the moniker of their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay specialist, La Crema. The 2013 Willamette Valley ($30) sports plum and cherry fruit compote in an easily enjoyable style with enticing oak and a lush texture.