The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

Burgundy. It’s a word that for many came to be synonymous with red wine – as in, “May I have a glass of Burgundy?” – like “Champagne” came to refer to any sparkling wine. As with Champagne, though, Burgundy (Bourgogne in French) is a specific geographic reference and in the wine world, it is a term that is legally regulated.

Also, with a few small exceptions (notably the gamay-based wines of Beaujolais), it is only two grapes – chardonnay for the whites and pinot noir for the reds. Geographically, the province stretches from Chablis in the north south to Dijon and on to Lyon. The most celebrated growing region is the Côte d’Or (slopes of gold), referring the color of the vines in the fall just south of Dijon.

It is this small area that has made Burgundy the benchmark for the concept of terroir. Over centuries, growers (initially Benedictine and Cistercian monks) came to delineate ever smaller demarcations of vineyards. In recognition of differences in soils, weather, climate and vegetation, these two grapes are seen as the best vehicles of expression for each site. The winemaker, of course, is important but in this view secondary.

For the purposes of this column, my recent tasting of the wines of Maison Roche de Bellene is a good illustration. Maison Roche de Bellene is the négociant business (makes wine with fruit purchased from other growers) of Nicolas Potel, a highly regarded winemaker in Burgundy, who also owns Domaine de Bellene (all estate-owned vineyards). The emphasis is on old vines – usually 40-80 years old and the wines are labeled Vieilles Vignes – that are farmed sustainably, in some cases organically and some even biodynamically.

Three of the four wines in my tasting are what is known as “village wines,” meaning they were sourced from vineyards surrounding the designated village. Village wines are considered to be of higher quality and cost more that a regional wine (simply labeled “Bourgogne”). While not cheap by any definition, they represent relative good values compared to the next levels in quality – Premier Cru and Grand Cru – as those wines can reach a cost of several hundred dollars a bottle (which also explains why there were none of these in my tasting).

The first thing I noticed with all these wines was the relatively light, translucent color, especially when compared to California and Oregon Pinot Noir. The second was penetrating aromatics of mostly red fruits (mainly cherry, also strawberry) with brown spice and an earthy quality. Third, in tasting the wines, higher acidity gave a sense of fresher but drier fruit, while that earthy quality also was present, often with an enticing note of black licorice.

The first two wines came from prestigious communes in the Côte de Nuits, the name for the northern half of the Côte d’Or that many say produces the epitome of pinot noir. I found the 2011 Chambolle-Musigny ($86) typical of the area, balancing elegance and finesse with power and depth. The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin ($64), from a nearby commune, had a more intense aroma with tea and tobacco notes. Surrounded by possibly the greatest collection of vineyards in all of Burgundy, its intensity and firm structure complimented a purity of fruit and loamy shadings.

But it was the 2011 Volnay ($64), from a highly regarded village in the Côte de Beaune, the southern part of the Côte d’Or that many prize more for its whites, that impressed me the most. It started out with dark fruit and spice notes, even cayenne followed by a round, lush palate with a solid structure finishing fresh. While the Volnay is immediately enjoyable, the Chambolle and Gevrey are more likely to improve over time.

If even these are too rich for you, seek out the 2012 Bourgogne ($21). It is the most affordable and accessible and delivered a lot for a wine for the money. It’s worth the search for a taste of real Burgundy.

I began this series on Pinot Noir with the Burgundy region of France, the historical benchmark for the grape; followed with Oregon Pinot Noir, considered by many to be the Burgundy of the New World. Now it’s California, which knowledgeable consumers know rivals and sometimes exceeds Burgundy and Oregon.

With numerous appellations along a 500-mile stretch from Mendocino to Santa Barbara sourcing fine Pinot Noir, I have had to pare down my report to a shopping list of the best from my recent tastings.

While it remains a challenge to find California Pinot Noir with a consumer friendly price/quality relationship, my tastings did turn up several values. I was especially impressed with the 2012 Alta Maria Santa Maria Valley ($28) and 2013 Jackson Estate Anderson Valley ($30). Each is a spectacular value. The following are solid everyday wines that deliver good quality at a reasonable price:

• 2013 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($20)
• From Russian River Valley

2012 Frei Brothers Reserve ($27)

2013 Rodney Strong ($25)

2013 Ron Rubin ($25)

• From Monterey

2013 Chloe ($17)

2013 Liberated ($20)

2013 J. Lohr “Falcon’s Perch” ($17)

2012 Wente “Riva Ranch” ($25)

2013 Talbott “Logan” ($25)

Mendocino County: especially the Anderson Valley, and Goldeneye is one of the best. Each of these wines is excellent.

• 2012 Anderson Valley ($55) intense but focused
• 2012 Gowan Creek Vineyard ($82) inviting fruit, enticing herbs
• 2012 Confluence Vineyard ($82) complex, layered
• 2012 The Narrows Vineyard ($82) rich, full and tannic
• 2012 Split Rail Vineyard ($82) wild berry and dried herb
• 2012 Ten Degrees ($115) complete and balanced

Russian River Valley: one of two top Sonoma County sources of world class Pinot

• 2012 MacRostie ($42) like cherry pie with baking spices
• 2012 Patz & Hall “Chenoweth Ranch” ($60) structured opulence from one of the best of the tasting

Sonoma Coast: California’s newest “hot” region for Pinot Noir but Cobb Wines was one of the first there 26 years ago.

• 2012 Diane Cobb: Coastlands Vineyard ($85) a spectacular wine of vivid fruit, enticing texture and dramatic earthbound complexity

Two other Cobb wines were remarkable for their abundant flavor despite low alcohol:

• 2012 Emmaline Ann Vineyard ($75) subtle but extremely well defined
• 2012 Rice-Spivak Vineyard ($75) deep with a bright beam of red fruit

Other top notch Sonoma Coast:

• 2012 MacRostie Goldrock Ridge ($54) dominant earth and spice nearly equaled by concentrated fruit
• 2013 Patz & Hall “Jenkins Ranch” ($60) top tier for its impressive complexity, packed with layers of fruit and savory qualities
• 2013 Patz & Hall Sonoma Coast ($46) lush, lively fruit
• 2013 Patz & Hall “Gap’s Crown Vineyard” ($70) powerful sweet oak and fruit with the right touch of earth

Carneros: Straddling the southern end of Sonoma and Napa

• 2012 Patz & Hall “Hyde Vineyard” ($70) an amazing rich, complex, harmonious, and pure wine, one of the most remarkable wines of my tastings
• 2012 Frank Family Carneros ($35) deep, ripe black cherry accented with light oak and sleek texture

Monterey County: From one of the region’s Pinot Noir pioneers, several of Talbott Vineyards wines starred in my tastings.

Two wines from their first vineyard reflect different selections of Dijon clones:

• 2012 Diamond T ($52) distinguished by deep, dark fruit, strong spice and heady alcohol
• 2012 Diamond T “RFT” ($75) red berries and sharp acidity, less herbal but plenty of richness

Santa Lucia Highlands: a highly regarded Monterey sub-appellation

• 2013 Talbott “Sarah Case” Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ($75) dramatic savory mushroom and bracing acidity
• 2012 Patz & Hall Pisoni Vineyard ($90) a complete portfolio of fantastic fruit, oak, earth and texture, highly recommended

Santa Barbara County: rivalling with Sonoma as California’s best Pinot Noir region

• 2012 Alta Maria “Bien Nacido Vineyard” Santa Maria Valley ($48) rich, layered, full flavored and extremely spicy
• 2012 Sea Smoke Santa Ynez Valley “Southing” ($60) elegant and seductive, rich and full bodied with beautifully concentrated fruit, a stunning wine

Wine has been made in Argentina at least as long and probably longer than in the U.S. but it really is in just the last ten years or so that Argentinian wine – most notably Malbec, Argentina’s “signature grape” – has emerged in the U.S. market. More and more people who used to order a Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon now are enticed to request a Malbec.

Of course, it helps that the wines are user friendly and eminently drinkable. But this growing popularity is mostly due to the welcoming prices (many at $20 or less). These wines hit the value sweet spot. Below are several new releases (only one will set you back serious money) that would be fine choices for everyday drinking.

Malbec, a minor blending grape in Bordeaux (though important in Cahors) experiences some sort of alchemy in Argentina’s high desert soils. Mendoza in the northwestern part of the country is the primary source, though other regions have gotten into the act successfully. Much good quality Mendoza Malbec can be had for $15 or less and you will get up front, round fruit and lush textures for your money. Good options from my recent tastings:

• 2012 Septima ($11) – a new winery with Spanish ownership farming high altitude vineyards
• 2012 Rutini “Trumpeter” ($11) – dating from 1885 and now owned by the Argentinian icon Nicolas Catena, this is his value brand
• 2013 Arido ($12) – notable for its complete lack of oak influence emphasizing bright fruit
• 2013 Argento Reserva ($14) – producing solid wines from high altitude vineyards since 1998
• 2013 Gascon ($14) –vineyards dating to 1884 produce a flavorful, friendly wine

For a little more money expect more intense fruit and a bit more structure.

• 2012 Trapiche “Broquel” ($18) – Argentina’s largest exported brand and one of its oldest wineries (1883) still delivers quality with its “shield” label
• 2011 Rutini “Encuentro” ($19) – meaning “encounter” or  “meeting” of fine Argentinean fruit and an international style, this is very full flavored
• 2011 Kirkland “Signature Series” ($20) – the upper tier of the house brand of Costco provides impressive quality for a high production wine
• 2011 Tomero Reserva ($25) – from the winery’s well situated estate vineyard

Those who prefer Cabernet Sauvignon also will find something to love from the 2012 Trapiche “Broquel” ($18), which delivers fine varietal quality.

Many producers also have found success blending Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2013 Vistalba “Corte C” ($18) at 76% malbec and 14% cabernet sauvignon and 10% bonarda is elegant, yet structured and full of fruit.  The 2012 Layer Cake “Sea of Stones” Red Wine ($15) blends malbec, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and petit verdot but the signature taste is stone, wrapping sweet fruit with a touch of spice.

The most expensive wine in my tastings – the 2011 Vistalba “Corte B” ($30) – was also the best. At 51% malbec, 37% bonarda and 12% cabernet sauvignon, it’s firm structure, pure dark fruit with tobacco, and refined texture is worth the extra change. It is enjoyable now but will improve over time.

The most interesting white wine comes from torrontés, which is unique to Argentina but has been shown to be the offspring of Mediterranean varieties. While most of the celebrated bottlings come from the northern regions of La Rioja, especially Salta, the 2013 Tomero Mendoza ($17) was typically aromatic, with a mélange of melon, apple, lemon, tangerine and pear in a light, crisp frame.

All in all, a very impressive showing. These two varieties of European origin that have adapted so well to Argentina’s terroir deliver high quality and flavor interest at reasonable prices. Although Argentina’s economy is struggling (whose economy isn’t!) and the wine industry is not unaffected, we are lucky the wines just keep getting better. New growing areas, new varieties, new blends, they all are worth your attention.

This is the story of an immigrant who came to America from humble origins, how America welcomed that immigrant and today that immigrant has become an American original.

No one knows for sure how this dark skinned immigrant got into the country. Maybe it was Hungarian Count Agoston Haraszthy who is known to have brought many European grape vine cuttings here in the mid-1800s. The records, as with many immigrants of the time, are scarce and unclear.

And while the zinfandel grape, like so many others grown in California, actually has a European origin (Croatia and southern Italy!), it is the only one that makes indisputably better wine in California than anywhere else. California Zinfandel wine captures the essence of exuberance and zest in a glass. Although it can be made in different styles, it typically is big and bold, with lively raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit accented with spice and a brash, even a little wild character often described as “briar” or “bramble.” It also represents great value, as most of even the best wines are under $50.

One of the first places the grape arrived in the state was the Sierra Foothills where it was brought from northeastern states during the time of the California Gold Rush. Many of those descending upon the region were European immigrants and brought with them a taste for wine. Soon zinfandel was the most widely planted grape. Many of these settlers found more fortune growing grapes than mining gold.

Building on that heritage, Renwood has become known for its mountain grown Zinfandels since its founding in 1993. I have always enjoyed the brawny, rustic style of the Fiddletown bottling (2012, $25) balanced with deep fruit and pepper. A real treat is the 2012 Grandpère ($40), from Renwood’s estate vineyard. It is bold and full-bodied with tons of berry fruit, yet polished.

Many of those “49ers” eventually made their way about 150 miles west, to places like the Redwood Valley in Mendocino County and the Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma County where again they planted grapes, most of which was zinfandel. They were joined by many Italian immigrants in the later half of the century, a development that further increased interest in zinfandel.

While Edmeades Winery wasn’t established in Mendocino until 1972, the winery quickly built a reputation as a Zinfandel specialist. It produces several single vineyard wines that harken to the area’s Italian immigrant heritage – Perli and Gianoli from Mendocino Ridge, and Piffero from Redwood Valley. The current releases (all 2013 vintage and $31) come from high elevation vineyards and share a deep ripeness of fruit. The Perli is especially complex and enticing.

A few decades later, in 1927, the Pendroncelli family purchased a winery in the Dry Creek Valley, just in time for Prohibition. The Pedroncellis survived, though, and wine consumers are all the better for it. The family still produces trustworthy Zins and maintains a humble pricing philosophy. The 2012 Bushnell Vineyard ($20), which I think is the winery’s most expensive Zin, displays cinnamon and dusty soil notes. If you appreciate a more rustic style, it is a great value.

In 1972, ex-engineer David Stare helped start a revival in the valley when he established Dry Creek Vineyard as the first winery built there since Prohibition. The 2013 “Old Vine” ($32) takes the term seriously, not as a marketing ploy. The average 95+ year-old vines yield a firm and concentrated wine with suggestions of sweetness and spice. The 2013 “Heritage Vines” ($20) is the winery’s successful attempt to combine old vine character (rustic, concentrated) with young vine qualities (fresh, elegant). “Heritage” refers to young vines grafted from 100-year-old budwood.

Ironically, I found a wine that blends grapes from all three regions (plus fruit from Napa and Contra Costa). The 2013 Saldo ($30) – the name refers to that multiple sourcing – by the Prisoner Wine Company leans to the big and bold jammy style but also displays toasty oak and strong black pepper with savory notes.

No conversation about Zinfandel would be complete without mention of Ridge Vineyards. An Italian immigrant doctor made the original plantings on the site known as Monte Bello Ridge in the Santa Cruz Mountains in 1885. From this home estate near San Jose, Paul Draper (who has been at Ridge over fifty years and is recognized as one of the world’s great winemakers) oversees the production of one of the most impressive portfolios anywhere.

While the Monte Bello estate is world famous for it Bordeaux-style wine, for me and many wine aficionados, it is the vineyard designated Zinfandels from Sonoma, Napa and Paso Robles that are Ridge’s main attraction. Most notably the Lytton Springs Vineyard in Dry Creek Valley and Geyserville Vineyard in Alexander Valley are widely considered two of the best vineyards of any kind in California. Grapes have been grown on both sites for at least 140 years.

 The Lytton Springs and Geyservile wines (both 2013 and $38) are beacons of what zinfandel can achieve when grown in the right place and crafted by the right hands. Lytton Springs generally shows great structure and power with a seamless texture, while Geyserville is more elegant and focused. Both are great, just different. It is worth noting both vineyards have been planted all these years as a “field blend” including petite sirah, carignane, and mataro. So, the resulting wines are only about three-fourths zinfandel.

It’s also worth noting both wines, technically are not labeled “Zinfandel.” They are labeled with the vineyard name. From a winemaking perspective, this reflects Draper’s respect for tradition and the site. From my perspective, it also is a metaphor for how all these immigrant grapes (in the field blend) support each other to assimilate in their new homes and achieve success.

Founded 30 years ago, Murphy-Goode is another winery that has continued the Alexander Valley tradition with zinfandel. The winery is notable for its whimsical gaming related product names as well as consistent quality. The three Zins recommended from my tasting begin with the 2012 “Liar’s Dice” ($21), a welcoming blend of Dry Creek and Alexander valley fruit offering jammy raspberry and black cherry with just a touch of spice. The 2012 “Snake Eyes” ($35), actually a single vineyard wine from Trusendi Vineyard in Alexander Valley is plush and appealingly ripe, with dark berries and zesty and spicy cocoa.  The 2012 Reserve Alexander Valley ($40) combines the best lots from all their vineyard sources to achieve a jammy and intense wine with vanilla accents and silky tannins.

Nowadays, Zinfandel produces distinctive wines in many regions of the state. I especially like Zins from Paso Robles and Lodi. Unfortunately, there were no Paso wines available for this report but I had a good Lodi Zin in the tasting. The Federalist “1776” (2013, $22) is the latest release for a label that honors our founding fathers (featuring a different one on the label each vintage) and zinfandel’s distinctly American character. This one features George Washington and offers fresh, sweet berries with rich oak balanced with firm tannins.

Zinfandel, the humble immigrant from Europe has overcome many obstacles over the last 160 years or so to establish its own tradition and identity and is now known to many as “America’s Heritage Wine,” truly an American success story.

NOTE: Featured image is courtesy of Historic Vineyard Society

I am willing to bet a survey of American wine drinkers would reveal that the vast majority have no idea Hungary is home to a world class wine region. That wine region is Tokaj (pronounced toe-keye).

I bet fewer still have heard of the furmint grape. Believed to be indigenous to this region in northern Hungary (roughly two hours northeast of Budapest) it is best known in the wine world as the foundation of the famous (and historically revered) Tokaji Aszú dessert wine.

According to the promotional group FurmintUSA, which provided the samples reviewed here, consumers should expect to hear more about furmint in the near future. It already is the leading Hungarian grape variety. And about 80 percent of the world’s furmint is grown in Hungary, though that and historical factors after World War II likely explain why the grape is so little known today.

Ironically, Tokaji Aszú enjoyed a high-class reputation at least from the 17^th Century to the early 20^th Century being favored by Europe’s royalty. Until recently, though, it was virtually unknown as a dry wine, especially in the U.S. Since the breakup of the Soviet Union, many mostly small, family-owned wineries have been established. And especially younger generations have focused grape growing on winemaking quality over quantity.

Now, dry furmints are creating quite a buzz in the wine world, with sommeliers, critics and others raving about an array of pungent aromatics, fruitfulness, structure, minerality and weight as all of these characteristics usually don’t all come together in the same wine.

As with many grape varieties, furmint can be vinified into various styles: from crisp, fruity everyday wines to full bodied and bracing to amazingly intense and complex single vineyard wines. Most of these wines see at least some time in oak, though some use less to emphasize fruit and acidity, while others use more oak to develop added richness and complexity.

2011 Gróf Degenfeld Tokaji Furmint ($20). The Count Degenfeld family, which came to the Tokaj region in the early 19^th Century and has been influential in the area, including winemaking, ever since, reestablished the winery in 1996. This is an estate wine made from organically grown grapes; undergoes barrel fermentation and aging; and sports snappy lemon, apple and stone fruit with cream and spice and unctuous texture.

2011 Erzsébet Estate Furmint ($24). Founded in 1992, though winemaking on the property dates to 1743, this wine is a blend of two top vineyards from this extremely small estate. Nutty, caramel notes mix with steely pear and juicy tangerine, with a gripping finish.

2012 Kvaszinger “Hatalos” ($30). This is another winery whose winemaking heritage dates to the early 1800s, though the new winery only dates to 2011. The grapes from the steep Hatalos slope are mostly fermented and aged in barrel. Lively orange, steely minerality join with apple and citrus.

2011 Majoros “Deák” ($40). Founded in 2009, this producer has been willing to experiment with methods not common to white wine making. For instance, this single vineyard wine is fermented four months with skin contact and has just been bottled. It shows admirable intensity and complexity with aromas of toasted cashew, pear and peppery spice combined with rich but refreshingly brisk green apple.

2012 Gizella “Szil-Völgy” ($55). Here, third generation winemakers have continued the family tradition opening this cellar in 1992. This single vineyard selection shows savory and mineral qualities along with intense, creamy apple and pear.

2012 Sauska Medve ($65). Established in 1998 by a Hungarian who gained success as an engineer in America, this “gravity fed” winery reflects that engineering background. The emphasis on gentle handling extends to the use of only ambient yeasts to ferment the wines. This barrel fermented and aged vineyard selection has penetrating aromas and flavors of forest, spice, pepper, mineral, smoke and fruit notes of apricot, orange, and apple.

Producers are still learning how well dry furmint ages but most seem to be at their best between three and six years, while the single vineyard wines can age and develop for a decade or more. The wines will partner well with an array of foods but especially spicy foods, creamy dishes Asian cuisine and roasts.

One caveat is that these wines for now are still relatively scarce with spotty distribution (hint, hint importers and distributors). And keep in mind, most of these are small estates with small production. But dry furmint can be absolutely delicious, with similar aromatic properties to, say, Grüner-Veltliner or dry Riesling. And in my opinion, almost as adept at translating the nuances of terroir.

A great alternative white wine option, don’t be surprised if dry furmints from Hungary gain in popularity and distribution in the next few years. They should get on your radar NOW!

How many of you out there think Riesling is always a sweet wine? Be honest. I hear all the time from people who think that. Certainly that is not true with German Riesling, my favorite white wine. Yes, the sweet styles are rich, luscious and for many of us captivating. But it is the dry and off-dry wines that are getting more attention these days, from winemakers and the trade … and they hope, consumers. Such wines are the subjects of this column.

The Rheinhessen, Germany’s largest wine region stretching south of the Rhein River, features gentle rolling hills where vines share farmland with many crops. The region’s wines have long rated behind those of other regions but with dedicated growers like the Wittmann family who have been growing grapes and producing wine since 1663; it has emerged in the forefront of the trocken (dry) movement.

Wittmann’s wines truly are outstanding. The only challenge is they are a bit pricey. The entry level 2013 “100 Hills” ($21) is all about tight and tangy lemon and orange. Its juicy acidity is matched by the 2013 Riesling Trocken ($32), which is equally tight, with steely green fruit. The 2013 Wittmann “Westhofener” ($51) is made with grapes grown around the village of Westhofen and presents more brisk green fruit along with juicy peach.

Just to the south of the Rheinhessen, the Pfalz is Germany’s second largest wine region. Growers here have been proclaiming the greatness of dry Riesling more than any other German region. In my tasting, the Pfalz was represented by Villa Wolf, an estate dating to 1753. The 2012 “Forster Pechstein” ($32), from one of the area’s finest vineyards, is representative of the area’s black basalt soils backing fruity aroma, flavors of apple, yellow plum and citrus, with herbal and spice notes.

Across the Rhein River north of Rheinhssen, the Rheingau, is one of the most distinguished wine regions of the world. And while that reputation has been built on the sweeter wines, today many fine trocken are being made – like these two from Robert Weil. The 2013 Riesling Trocken ($20) delivers a lot of wine for the money. Following pure, intense aromas of nectarine and gooseberry, an initial steely, minerally impression in the mouth is joined by juicy and a touch spicy flavors.

In the great Mosel River Valley, which begins west of the Rheingau and where winemaking dates to the Roman occupation 2000 years ago, dry wines also are getting more attention. The 200-year-old Dr. Loosen estate has, under the direction of Ernst Loosen since 1988, arguably become the most recognizable name in premium German Riesling in the U.S. The 2013 “Red Slate” ($18) is the winery’s entry-level dry wine and it is a really good value. Lively tangerine and lemon-lime aromas and flavors are delivered with a sense of creaminess and prominent spiciness likely from the red slate soils of its originating vineyards.

The 2012 Dr. Loosen “Erdener Treppchen” Alte Reben Grosses Gewächs ($42), except for its confusing name, is amazingly rich, elegant and quite intense, reflecting the vineyard’s 100-year-old vines. “Alte Reben” means “old vines” and “Grosses Gewächs” indicates this is considered a great vineyard. Drinking the wine I have to concur as zesty lemon, apple and tropical fruits burst from the glass, accented with minerally red slate notes.

For Fritz Haag in nearby Brauneberg in the heart of the central Mosel, the tradition goes back to 1605. Also an accomplished producer of sweet Rieslings, even the entry level 2013 Trocken ($22) transmits a sense of the reddish slate soil under pinning the bright green apple and honeydew.

German wineries are working hard these days to convince consumers that their dry Rieslings are worth more attention. They certainly have convinced me. As a bonus, these wines are most suited to drinking with myriad foods – from cheese to grilled vegetables to sausage to shellfish to Asian dishes.