The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

Photo Credit: Wikipedia

America is a nation of immigrants. Not surprisingly, we have a long history of enjoying wines imported from other countries, especially Europe. For instance, some of us remember Thomas Jefferson as much for his love of French wine as for his founding father role. Of course, America’s best wines are made from vines that “immigrated” from other places, again primarily Europe.

So, this Thanksgiving I plan to share with my family several wines imported from European countries well known for their great wines.

From my own country of origin – Italy – I am looking forward to four Tuscan wines. From Castello di Nipozzano, a property that dates to the 11^th century and now is owned by Frescobaldi, one of the great families of Italian wine, the 2010 Riserva Chianti Rufina ($25) is a really good value. With its pure black fruit and herbal spice notes, it is full yet balanced enough to be easy drinking as it finishes with a refreshing palate.

The 2011 “Vecchie Viti” Chianti Rufina ($30) is another excellent value. Made with grapes from old vines, it ironically is a tradition in the Frescobaldi family to dedicate the wine to new borns in the family. It is aromatic and drinks with elegance offering bright red fruits, licorice and spice.

The other two wines I’m interested in give a nod to Italy’s neighbor France by blending the native sangiovese with small amounts of French varieties. The 2011 Brancaia Tre Rosso ($23) (as its name indicates) melds three grape varieties – sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon – from Brancaia’s three Tuscan estates into a sleek whole with cherry fruit and touches of spice and chocolate with roasted notes.

From Castello Banfi’s estate vineyards in the southern hills of Montalcino, comes another modernistic assemblage – its name means “dark beauty” signifying a cuvee of red grape varieties primarily sangiovese with small amounts of French varieties. The 2011 “BelnerO” ($29) delivers tasty black cherry and plum accented with vanilla, coffee and light mineral notes, reflecting the area’s stony, calcareous terroir.

Bordeaux in France is one of the most celebrated wine regions in the world. Beyond the expensive wines of the famous chateau, though, is a lot of sound, affordable wine. I’m especially intrigued with the 2012 Les Hauts de Lagarde ($13), which is made from organically grown grapes and is non-GMO verified by the Non-GMO Project. Its 65% merlot, 25% cabernet sauvignon, and 10% cabernet franc yield a soft drink with a touch of oak, a smoky, earth character and pretty plum and cherry fruit.

On to Spain and the value theme of this column continues. The 2010 Bodegas Iranzo “Vertus” ($12) is another wine made from organically grown grapes and verified non-GMO. Iranzo, with vineyards in the hills just west of the Mediterranean coast near Valencia, claims to be Spain’s oldest estate bottled winery dating back to 1335. The wine is 100% tempranillo and a Crianza (meaning aged six months). The result is fresh red berries, raisin and savory notes with a soft but tight texture.

Although the 2009 CUNE Rioja Reserva ($28) is twice the price of the Vertus, it is well worth the extra investment. It comes from a winery founded in 1879 and still family-owned and -operated. It is 85% tempranillo (with the rest equal parts mazuelo, graciano and garnacha) and the extra time in barrel and bottle (minimum total of three years for Reserva) produces a nicely balanced wine. While it still exhibits fresh, bright black and red berries, it is offset with a touch of earth and drinks elegant, yet lively.

Finally, I really like these outstanding “einwanderers” from Germany. For my money, German Riesling is the ideal white wine for Thanksgiving (or anytime of year!). As luscious and delicious as are the riper and sweeter Spätlese and Auslese, it is the off-dry Kabinett that is most suited to drinking with the widest variety of foods.

Making wine in the Mosel Valley since 1561, the wines of Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium have been a favorite choice of mine for many years. The 2012 Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett ($22) is delightful with its crisp lemon, peach, apricot, green apple and pear; and I even think I can taste the blue slate minerality that is the hallmark of this vineyard.

From the Mittelrhein, an area sandwiched between the more famous Mosel and Rheingau, the Weingart estate has produced a 2012 Bopparder Hamm Engelstein Kabinett that is a particular treat. With the exceedingly steep slopes of the area, it is not surprising relatively few attempt viticulture here. But I’m sure glad Florian Weingart has accepted the challenge. This wine, marked “feinherb +” to indicate it is a little sweet, is quite racy with juicy pear, apple, and lemon, followed by intriguing spiciness.

The 2011 Von Winning Riesling “in Deidesheim” ($20) comes from a winery founded in 1849 in the Pfalz region (stretching south of the Rheingau). This one is bracing with citrus, green apple and pear and an underlying hint of minerality.

Happy Thanksgiving to all, whatever you are drinking!

Beginning in the early 1990’s, the popularity of Merlot wines from California grew almost exponentially among American consumers. According to The Wine Institute, just over 15,000 tons were crushed in 1990 and over 292,000 tons were crushed in 2004! American consumers were drawn to the wine’s easy drinking, approachable profile.

But then Sideways (the movie) happened. With this Pinot Noir-centric movie’s disparaging of Merlot, suddenly the associated wines became suspect, even though some of the great wines of the world are made of predominately of merlot. But reports of Merlot’s death were exaggerated. While production has fluctuated over the ensuing decade, Merlot remains the second most popular California red wine.

Much of that is soft, admittedly bland swill. But here I’m concerned with introducing discerning consumers to quality choices. At an everyday price, the 2012 William Hill Central Coast ($17) is a solid value, with tasty bright red berry fruit, an earthy note and satiny texture.

Interestingly, my recent tastings did not include any wines in the $20-$30 range. But I did find two just over $30 a bottle that should entice you. The 2010 Clos du Val Napa Valley ($35) is balanced and elegant, focused on cherry fruit. It is buttressed with a significant amount of cabernet sauvignon and dollops of petite verdot and cabernet franc. If you prefer super ripeness, you’ll think this lean and shy. I appreciate its firmness and freshness.

In contrast, the 2011 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($34) is more luscious and supple. It is blended with small amounts of cabernet sauvignon, petite verdot and cabernet franc, making it rich in dark cherries and brown spices.

For a few dollars more, the 2009 Grgich Hills Napa Valley ($42) is attractive for its complex mix of sweet red and black fruit, with coffee, herbal and cedar notes. It’s quite tasty and rich, though somewhat lean in style, with a touch of heat in the finish.

But I was really impressed with these excellent wines from the fifteen-year-old Buty winery in Washington State. The 2010 “Merlot-Cabernet Franc” ($40), using fruit from the Conner Lee Vineyard and Champoux Vineyard and blended with 42% cabernet franc, offers a mix of well focused dark berry fruit accented with herbs, brown spices and bittersweet chocolate delivered in a silky, elegant frame.

The 2011 “Merlot Cabernet-Franc” Conner Lee Vineyard ($45), blended with 33% cabernet franc, shows nice balance of red and black fruits steadied with crisp but lush acidity and accented with earthy, savory and spice notes. Both beckon you to drink them now but will develop for the next five to ten years.

These are all very good wines. Still, if you want to experience the heights of what West Coast Merlot can achieve, your journey should begin with Duckhorn Vineyards. Duckhorn produced its first wines in 1978 and quickly established a reputation as one of California’s best Merlot producers. Over the years, they have developed a style both for their Cabernets and Merlots that generally has been described as hard or tough when young, certainly rich and full-bodied, with generous fruit and ample tannins calling for aging 5-10+ years. Doesn’t sound like the stereotype of the soft, quaffable Merlot, does it? The only downside is this level of quality comes at a price. Duckhorn wines occupy the upper stratosphere of wine pricing. But the following new releases will reward the investment.

• 2010 Napa Valley ($54) represents the craft of blending – in this case several prized vineyards to express the essence of Napa Valley – yielding a structured wine with powerful black fruits, prominent oak and strong tannins.

• 2010 Carneros ($70) from vineyards in the southern end of the valley that benefit from the cooling influence of the San Pablo Bay, is tighter and more tannic, a bit earthy, but with sweeter, brighter cherry and plum.

• 2010 Atlas Peak ($70) shows the elements of mountain grown fruit – wild berry, currant and cola, firm tannins yet velvety palate, substantial weight and rich finish.

• 2010 Three Palms Vineyard ($90) on the northeast side of the valley floor, is Duckhorn’s flagship wine made since 1978. Its signature is to begin life hard, tight and tough, gradually yielding succulent currant and cherry fruit and developing herb and mocha notes rewarding patience with richness and complexity.

• 2010 Rector Creek Vineyard ($90), located near Yountville, was the most immediately satisfying for its more approachable tannins, softer texture, luscious berry and cherry fruit, and creamy oak.

• 2009 Stout Vineyard ($85), from a vineyard on Howell Mountain, is another one with hard tannins and a tough facade. Yet, it is really rich in black and red fruits, toasty oak and a polished palate.

NOTE: Featured Image photo courtesy of Close du Val Winery

As my favorite wine, I naturally drink a lot of Zinfandel. One reason is it’s quite versatile with food. It is great with spicy foods like Italian and Indian. But it really shines with the barbecue and grilled foods especially enjoyable this time of year.

I mostly love Zinfandel because it captures the essence of exuberance and zest in a glass. Although it can be made in different styles, it typically is big and bold, with a brash texture and lively raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit accented with spice (black pepper, sage) and a brash, even a little wild character often described as briar or bramble. It also represents great value, as most of even the best wines are under $50.

Some things to keep in mind, though: Zinfandel tends toward high alcohol. The wines in my tastings ranged from 14% to 15.5%. Interestingly, nearly every wine contained some amount of petite sirah, usually to add backbone. Most will drink well for up to five years. Finally, I enjoyed the wines more when they were slightly chilled to 55 or 60 degrees. Here are my recommendations listed roughly in order of preference:

OUTSTANDING

2010 Bella “Rocky Ridge Vineyard” Rockpile ($45) – From one of the best Zinfandel producers, this high elevation (1300 feet) vineyard has produced a fine Zin that also will age well. It is dramatic and intense with brambly raspberry, cherry and blackberry, also spice and anise; it manages to be full-bodied yet elegant.

EXCELLENT

2012 Dry Creek Vineyard “Old Vine” Dry Creek Valley ($30) – The average 90+ year-old vines yield a firm but luscious wine of concentrated, briary black cherry and blackberry fruit, with suggestions of sweetness and spice.

2010 Bella “Lily Hill Estate” Dry Creek Valley ($40) – This vineyard, originally planted in 1915, has produced a big, juicy wine of concentrated wild berries and spicy herbs, with woodsy notes and a lush but firm texture that suggests improvement over time.

2011 Amapola Creek “Monte Rosso Vineyard” Sonoma Valley “Vinas Antiguas” ($42) –This unfiltered and unfined wine shows the pedigree of its mountain source and 118-year-old dry farmed vines. It is dense, with cherry and blueberry fruit, licorice, pepper and spice notes, sleek texture, and noticeable but soft tannins.

2012 Dry Creek Vineyard “Heritage Vines” Dry Creek Valley ($19) –This is rustic, though easy going, expressive with wild berry, pepper, chocolate and spice, all buttressed with bright acidity and fresh tannins.

VERY GOOD

2012 Artezin Mendocino ($17) – Also rustic, this delights with lively raspberry and boysenberry, spicy herb, a soft mouthfeel but solid tannic structure.

2011 Frank Family Napa Valley ($37) – As with most Napa wineries, Frank Family is best known for Cabernet but I’ve always enjoyed the Zin and this is another winner. Its ripe cherry and raspberry fruit compliment anise, spicy herb, sweet oak and a suggestion of minerality.

2012 Rancho Zabaco “Sonoma Heritage Vines” Sonoma County ($15) – Over half of the grapes for this Zinfandel specialist’s wine come from the Dry Creek Valley. It is plump, with juicy black and red fruits, brown spices, firm and spicy in the finish. Excellent value.

2010 Grgich Hills “Estate Grown” Napa Valley ($35) – From the winery’s organic and biodynamic Miljenko’s Vineyard, this is ripe and juicy as cherry and raspberry join chocolate, licorice and spicy herb in a dense wine finishing with firm tannins and some heat.

2011 The Federalist Dry Creek Valley ($29) – Honoring our founding fathers and zinfandel’s distinctly American character, this one offers tart cherry and spicy herb, balanced with brambly raspberry and blackberry and an intriguing char note.

2011 Artezin Dry Creek Valley ($25) – A solid Zin of juicy, ripe blackberries accented with earth and chocolate, weighty but balanced.

2010 Renwood “Premier Old Vine” Amador County ($20) –This one is loaded with jammy raspberry followed by spicy notes. Ample fruit nicely balances its firm structure.

2011 Four Vines ”Biker” Paso Robles ($18) – Another Zin specialist, zesty red fruits, spice and toasted herb flavors are its inviting calling cards.

2012 Pedroncelli “Mother Clone” Dry Creek Valley ($16) – After four generations in Sonoma, the Pedroncelli family still produces trustworthy Zins. This one’s peppery with black and tart red fruits, creamy and spicy notes, fresh acids and smooth tannins.

2011 Coup de Grâce Red Wine Lodi ($28) – intense old-vine character with spicy black and red berry fruit, licorice, earth, and full-bodied texture; not for the faint-hearted

OTHER GOOD ZINS WORTH YOUR ATTENTION

 
2012 Edmeades Mendocino ($20) – fermented with native yeast, briary red and black berries, hints of creamy oak, earth, and tobacco, lively acidity and ample tannins

2012 Zin-phomaniac Old Vines Lodi ($17) – The racy label beckons you but the wine delivers. Sourced from vineyards ranging from 20 to 75 years old, it’s very full-bodied, suggesting sweetness, with dark cherry, caramel and spice.

2012 Murphy-Goode Liar’s Dice Sonoma County ($21) – a welcoming blend of Dry Creek and Alexander Valley fruit offering jammy raspberry and black cherry with just a touch of spice

2012 Decoy Sonoma County ($25) – part of the Duckhorn portfolio, quite aromatic bright red berry tones, exuberant acidity finishing with a chalky note

2012 Rodney Strong Knotty Vines Sonoma County ($25) – a fine blend of old vine Russian River and Alexander Valley fruit, bright red cherry and cranberry with smoky and spicy notes, fairly tannic

2012 Caricature Old Vine Lodi ($17) – from the LangeTwins fifth generation Lodi farm, including some 100-year-old vines, spicy blackberry and boysenberry, with creamy, smoky notes

2011 Renwood Fiddletown Amador County ($25) – a rustic style, woodsy notes but quite ripe and peppery with a hint of anise, finishes tannic

2012 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” Mendocino ($17) – brambly raspberry, plump and juicy blueberry, finishing with some grip

2012 Four Vines “Truant” California ($12) – juicy blue fruits, plump, easy drinking with good depth