The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

February 23, 2012February 29, 2012

BRECKENRIDGE BREWERY AND STRANAHAN’S COLORADO WHISKEY LAUNCH COLLABORATION BEER

Today, Breckenridge Brewery and Stranahan’s Colorado Whiskey announced the launch of “Stranahan’s Well Built™ E.S.B.,” an Extra Special Bitter beer aged for 3 months in Stranahan’s whiskey barrels. Breckenridge and Stranahan’s have been neighbors for several years.

Todd Usry, Brewmaster and Director of Brewery Operations, told a room of journalists he was flattered that Stranahan’s came up with the idea for a collaboration beer. “Collaboration is part of our culture,” he said. Pete Macca, General Manager of Stranahan’s Distillery, echoed this sentiment, saying Stranhan’s is proud to have its name associated with Breckenridge Brewery. He added they look forward to ongoing collaborations with Breckenridge.

Breckenridge Brewery was founded in 1990 in Breckenridge, Colorado and has grown from a 1,000-barrels-a-year brewpub to a producer of 41,000 barrels annually with five brewpubs/ales houses in the state. Stranahan’s Colorado Whiskey, founded in 2004, is a widely acclaimed small batch whiskey distilled in Colorado’s first ever craft distillery.

The small batch beer, packaged in 750ml cork and caged bottles, launches tomorrow, February 24 in liquor stores in Colorado but also will be found on draft in select tap rooms in the state. I found the beer to be a distinctive brew, enticing with a nose that reveals oak, vanilla, and of course whiskey. On the palate, it offers a noticeable maltiness with bread, biscuit and roasted qualities that Usry attributed of the use of traditional English malt. But the beer is quite hoppy, having been brewed with four varieties of hops. The hops cut a strong figure, balancing the voluptuous malt. That and the influence of whiskey make for the lingering finish of this well built beer.

For more info

www.breckbrew.com

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Twitter: BreckBrew

www.stranahans.com

Facebook: Stranahans Colorado Whiskey

February 13, 2012February 19, 2012

DISCOVER THE WIDE WORLD OF SYRAH (AND SHIRAZ)

Featured Image courtesy of Niner Wine Estates

Syrah is one of the world’s great red wine grapes but for some reason it has languished in the shadow of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and more recently Pinot Noir. I hope that changes soon; the grape deserves the attention.

At its best, wines made from syrah provide great concentration, complexity and elegance, with an array of aromas and flavors, including berries, cherries, plum, currants, black or white pepper, anise, meat, leather, herbs, chocolate and coffee, and an ability to develop for 10, even 20 years. Even a lower priced syrah will deliver forward fruit and a smooth texture that is just right for everyday drinking.

Syrah also is a good food wine. It matches well with any dish that calls for a full flavored red wine, especially if it’s grilled, roasted, smoked or barbecued. It also stands up well to spicy foods.

Syrah developed its noble reputation as the primary red grape of France‘s northern Rhone Valley, especially the great Hermitage but also Côte-Rôtie, Cornas, Gigondas, St. Joseph, and Crozes-Hermitage. Syrah also can be an important component of the wines of the southern Rhone, including Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Cotes-du-Rhone, as well as many other wines of southern France.

In Hermitage especially the special nature of syrah originates with geography and climate. Steep, terraced vineyards stretch up and down granite hillsides rising above the Rhone River. Over millennia the river has carried alluvial deposits from the Alps laced with calcareous (limestone) and dotted with flint and stones. Cooler Continental influences from the north merge with warmer Mediterranean influences up from the south. The resulting strong winds – known as Mistral – are an ever-present challenge to the vines.

Hermitage, which actually is just a few hilltops, is a tiny appellation – just 320 acres, not much more than many Bordeaux estates. This famous hill got its name from a legend about a knight returning from the Crusades who decided to live out his life in solitude in the chapel on the top of the hill. After his passing, the chapel continued as a home for hermits.

Many believe syrah achieves its noblest expression here, where all the red wines are 100% syrah. M. Chapoutier’s is one of the top producers, along with great names like Chave, Jaboulet and Delas. The Chapoutier family’s history in the Rhône stretches back two centuries. Today they make some of the region’s most prestigious wines and are one of the world’s most highly regarded producers. The 2007 “Monier de la Sizeranne” ($125) is in many ways typical of great Hermitage: deep color, intense aromatics (red and black fruits – raspberry, blackcurrant, blackberry – hints of violets, black pepper and licorice). There also are suggestions of the signature meaty character that should become more pronounced with age. But it is so balanced it actually could be described as elegant. Strong but soft tannins and a lingering finish suggest a long life.

Although France is the benchmark for syrah, Australia deserves a lot of the credit for increasing the grape’s popularity. Australia has over the last 150 years or so developed a special relationship with syrah. Australian Shiraz has become one of the largest selling wines in the U.S. in recent years, popularizing the use of that name on the label. The Aussies produce a lot of good, inexpensive wine but also some of the world’s best wines from the grape.

And not that it necessarily needs it but what better validation of Australia’s success with the grape than for Michel Chapoutier to commit his family to a partnership with the wine importer Anthony Terlato to produce wine here. Their 2007 Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier “lieu dit Malakoff” ($30) single vineyard wine shows its mountain-grown origins in the Pyrenees of Central Victoria. Aromas of black fruits, with touches of chocolate and pepper preview a juicy intensity and solid but silky structure.

The Barossa Valley, just north of Adelaide in South Australia has emerged as arguably the country’s premier Shiraz producer. If you like big, unabashed wines, the 2010 Two Hands “Gnarly Dudes” ($40) is for you. Within little more than a decade, Two Hands has become one of Australia’s most highly praised producers. While they source grapes from various vineyards throughout South Australia, the grapes for Gnarly Dudes come from a number of Barossa parcels, notable for their gnarly old vines. Cocoa, anise and a floral note accent this wine’s dark berries, all delivered with vibrant acidity, with a finish balanced by firm but fine tannins.

I also have identified two good Aussie choices that will take half the bite out of your pocketbook.

The 2010 The Lucky Country McLaren Vale ($19) is from the coastal area south of Adelaide that was first planted in 1838 and still boasts many old vines. The wine is typical Mc Laren Vale with vibrant dark fruits, in this case especially blackberry, hints of mocha, herbal, soil characteristics, and a touch of meat and spice.

Or try another Barossa Shiraz, like the 2009 Peter Lehman ($17). This well regarded winery has been producing for 31 years using mostly fruit purchased from dozens of growers with long-term relationships. The result here is an immediately approachable wine of plum, meat and chocolate aromas followed by a juicy, fresh palate.

Australia’s southern hemisphere neighbor South Africa has emerged in recent years as a fine wine producer well worth attention. And Shiraz definitely is one of the country’s top red wines. The 2006 Rust en Vrede Stellenbosch ($28) would be a great place to start sampling what the country has to offer. The Rust en Vrede estate dates to 1694! And Stellenbosch is the country’s premier winegrowing region. This wine is quite intense, loaded with black fruits, and accented with notes of chocolate, cinnamon, meat and smoke. Round tannins increase its appeal.

Which brings us to California. It seems over the last twenty years or so, Syrah has alternated between being “The Next Big Thing” to being an “also ran.” I say it deserves to be the next big thing. I certainly have had good to excellent Syrah from just about every California growing region.

Terlato shows up again with an impressive Dry Creek Valley Syrah, the 2007 Terlato Block 9 ($48). Block 9 is a section of the Terlato Dry Creek Valley estate vineyard near the confluence of the Dry Creek and Russian Rivers where gravelly soils are particularly hospitable to syrah. They also seem to make for a particularly spicy, full-bodied wine with deep black fruits that linger in the finish.

One development of particular interest that emerged from my tastings is that the grape is doing particularly well in California’s Central Coast.

Paso Robles in particular has emerged as a prime source of syrah and other Rhone varietals. While many of the region’s best wines are blends, there are many fine varietal Syrah wines. For a good introduction, try the 2009 J. Lohr South Ridge Estate ($15). The South Ridge Estate, which sits on a south-facing hillside, hosts sandy and gravelly soils that combine to form conditions conducive to intense fruit. Spiced with touches of petite sirah and zinfandel, this wine shows nice blueberry and chocolate, with good acidity.

Another fine example of Paso Robles Syrah is the 2007 Niner Bootjack Ranch ($20). Niner Wine Estates began in 1999 when entrepreneur Dick Niner recognized Paso’s potential and purchased what is now called Bootjack Ranch. This wine shows black and red fruits, minerals and a smoky character. There are both floral and meaty notes, with good acidity and a finish lifted by noticeable tannins.

Even more impressive is what Zaca Mesa is doing with syrah (not to mention several other Rhône varietals) in Santa Barbara. Located in the heart of what most people know as prime pinot noir country, Zaca Mesa’s wines have introduced whole new possibilities for the region. Located in the Santa Ynez Valley, Zaca Mesa is dedicated to estate grown and bottled wines. All the wines are made from grapes grown on 244 acres of vineyards. Zaca Mesa was the first to plant syrah in Santa Barbara in 1978 and now farms 90 acres of the grape. These three Syrah definitely will grab your attention.

2008 Santa Ynez Valley ($25). This wine is the most typical of Zaca Mesa’s style. It bursts with red and black berries, smoke, mocha and spice. The smooth texture is enlivened by ripe tannins in the finish.

2007 Mesa Reserve ($44). This reserve is crafted from the best barrels of Zaca Mesa’s “Mesa B” block. It is incredibly concentrated with tons of fruit. All the dark berries and smoked meat one would expect, accented with suggestions of mocha, smoke and spice. It will continue to evolve for several years.

2006 Black Bear Block Estate Bottled Santa Ynez Valley ($60). The Black Bear Block is a single 3½-acre block planted with cuttings from (wouldn’t you know it) Chapoutier. This wine is serious stuff. Dense and rich, powerful yet elegant, it bursts with berries, cherries, and currants, all black. Mocha, pepper, oak, meat, and smoke all join the chorus. It finishes with elegant tannins and a touch of chocolate. And will drink well for at least a decade.

Hopefully, if consumers like you try wines like these, Syrah/Shiraz will soon regain its rightful place among the royalty of wines.

January 5, 2012February 29, 2012

WINE BOOKS FOR WINTER READING AND SIPPING

The coming winter months are a good time to curl up with a book and (of course) a glass of wine. And what better time to fortify your wine knowledge? How about a resolution to better appreciate the diversity of wine? Here are three recommendations for good reference books you will enjoy reading and will help you enjoy wine more. I’m often skeptical of wine and food pairing advice. But “The Food Lover’s Guide To Wine” by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg (Little, Brown, $35), the culinary authors’ eighth book, is a notable exception. Page and Dornenburg begin with the recognition that wine is food, quoting Michael Pollan’s healthful advice: “Drink wine. With food. Not too much.” Noting they love food first and wine second, the authors declare their greatest interest in wine is “its ability to make food taste better.” Their focus on flavor, both of the wine and the food, is a key to enhancing the food/wine experience. The book is distinctive for its approach of asking sommeliers their thoughts and advice about such things as their favorite grapes, regions and pairings, along with wine service instructions. These insights mostly avoid geek-speak and really bring the topic to life. Providing context, Page and Dornenburg begin the book with an informative timeline of wine in America. Throughout the book, helpful sidebars, lists, and tips provide additional detail and perspective. Given that wine is a beverage meant to be enjoyed daily, I especially appreciated the list of wine best buys – 150 wines under $15. The book covers more than 250 types of wine with information on pronunciation, grapes used, origins, top producers flavor profiles, and food pairing ideas. It is so packed with information I expect to be referring back to it many times. It seems wine educator Mark Oldman’s mission is to make wine fun, interesting and accessible for novices, while turning more experience wine drinkers on to new taste experiences. Oldman has pursued this in gigs with Rachel Ray and PBS and in his first book, “Oldman’s Guide to Outsmarting Wine.” In his newest book, “Oldman’s Brave New World of Wine” (W. W. Norton, $20), he enlists chefs, winemakers, sommeliers and celebrities in the effort. With these contributors and a lively writing style, Oldman’s book mirrors his goal for wine: it’s fun, interesting and accessible. It is a good introduction to the world of fine wine with forty chapters covering white, red, rose and sparkling wines from all over the world. The book’s strength is Oldman’s insistence on introducing readers to wines that are not “the usual suspects.” He takes us on a journey through “brave new pours,” grape varieties and wines that may be obscure to most Americans but are well known in other countries, with distinctive flavors and usually of moderate cost. I especially like the informative boxes that accompany each chapter. They provide quick reference for wine characteristics (flavor profile, cost, pronunciation, and food affinities), and purchasing advice. And fun graphs charting the “adventure factor” of the wine. As Oldman writes, “Why should insiders have all the fun?” “The Finest Wines of California,” by Stephen Brook (University of California Press, $35) is a different kind of reference book. Brook recognizes trying to write a comprehensive survey of California wine is a futile exercise. So, he presents precisely what the book’s title promises: his opinion of California’s finest wineries and wines. Still, he manages to cover nearly 100 producers. These were chosen, Brook explains, first for quality but also availability and consistency over time. The guts of the book, then, is the profiles of the selected producers, with each generally including a history, wine production methods, and wine tasting notes. The author deserves credit for sticking his neck out in the last chapter where he lists what he considers to be California’s 100 finest wines from among those profiled in the book. Though British, Brook certainly is qualified for this task, having written 15 books (including a previous one about California) and writing about California wine for Decanter and The World of Fine Wine. Maybe that’s why the book begins with informative and sometimes provocative essays on California wine history, wine culture, grape varieties, evolution of wine styles, business and more. I found these as intriguing as the profiles. Brook provides not just interesting information about producers he believes deserve the attention. He also offers the reader a distinctive perspective on California wine. For that alone, this book deserves your attention.

December 6, 2011January 4, 2012

WINES FOR HOLIDAY MEALS AND GIFTS

All American Wines For Your Holiday Meal

Every year I spend almost as much time deciding which wines to serve with our holiday dinner, whether it’s Thanksgiving or Christmas, as the rest of my family does preparing the meal. Part of the reason for this is the simple fact that I know good wine dramatically enhances enjoyment of the meal.

The other more practical reason is that most holiday dinners, whether the traditional “turkey with all the fixins” or something more creative, present such a wide variety of flavors that it truly is challenging to pick a wine to drink throughout the dinner. And there usually are a lot of people at the table, so we need multiple bottles anyway.

So, the question is how to match all that variety. My solution? Quite simply, use different wines with each course. Incidentally, I generally prefer all American wines for these holiday meals.

For instance, a Riesling or a Gewürztraminer are great to start, whether as aperitifs or to pair with appetizers and soup, especially one with a vegetable or chicken base. But both wines provide good acidity and lively fruit to accommodate a wide variety of foods.

A good Riesling is enticingly aromatic with bracing acidity and typically green apple, citrus and stone fruit flavors. Most intriguing, there often is a distinctive mineral component. I especially have been enjoying Washington State Riesling these days. All are slightly sweet unless otherwise indicated.

2010 Chateau St. Michelle Dry ($9), Riesling ($9), Harvest Select (sweet, $10)
2010 Snoqualmie Winemaker’s Select (sweet, $10)
2010 Pacific Rim Dry ($10), Riesling ($10), Sweet ($10)
2009 Hogue Cellars Columbia Valley Riesling ($10)
2010 Columbia Crest Grand Estates ($11)

I especially like Gewürztraminer because the grape’s typical spiciness adds complexity that helps the wine match with earthy, autumn flavors. Also look for lychee, grapefruit, apricot, and peach aromas and flavors. The wines below are just slightly sweet and each is an exceptional value.

2009 Hogue Columbia Valley ($10)
2010 Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley ($9)
2010 Snoqualmie “Naked” ($12) organic grapes
2010 Columbia Crest “Two Vines” ($8)

The zesty green fruits and distinctive herbaceousness of Sauvignon Blanc enable this wine to pair with multiple courses. These two are perennial favorites.

2010 Grgich Hills “Fumé Blanc” Napa Valley ($30)
2010 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($20)

For the reds, I like Pinot noir for its versatility. Its most common flavors – cherry, plum, cranberry, blueberry, brown spices, and earthy/mushroom notes – are much like the various flavors on the typical Thanksgiving table. Also, many tend to be on the light side, making them more food friendly. Pinot Noir definitely is pricey but each of these wines delivers fine quality within its price range.

2009 Carmel Road Monterey ($20) smooth texture, firm palate
2009 Alta Maria Santa Maria Valley ($28) elegant, complex
2009 Saintsbury Carneros ($28) bright fruit, nice acidity
2009 La Crema Russian River Valley ($40) dark fruit, structured
2009 Cherry Pie “Stanly Ranch” Carneros ($50) intense fruit, full body

If you prefer more outgoing, strongly flavored reds, I suggest Zinfandel, the so-called All-American wine. It is a European immigrant that has fully adapted to California’s hospitable wine growing regions. The grape’s bright raspberry blackberry, and black cherry fruit, peppery spice and brash, generous character should hold up well to the challenge presented by all those different flavors on the plate.

2009 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($16) excellent quality for the price
2009 Edmeades Mendocino County ($20) a lot of power
2008 Montelena Estate Napa Valley ($30) elegant, Bordeaux-style
2008 Dashe Florence Vineyard ($32) spicy, structured and full flavored
2009 Frank Family Napa Valley ($37) lots of fruit with fine spice
2008 Dutcher Crossing Bernier-Sibary Vineyard ($39) intense and powerful

Holiday Wine Gift Ideas

It is also time to start looking for a special wine to give that wine lover in your life. With ongoing economic uncertainty, it is more important than ever to be extra careful in our purchases, to find those little gems that can make an extra special gift. Well, I’m here to help, suggesting some exciting wines to make your decision easier.

As much as I am an advocate for lesser-known wines, you can’t go wrong with California Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. These are still the most popular red and white wines in America, making them reliable choices for a gift. And they also carry a certain cache; that something that says you cared enough to select a special wine.

For Cabernet Lovers:

2007 Stonestreet Monument Ridge ($45) demonstrates why many swear by the quality possible from mountain vineyards; really impressive character and complexity throughout; strong tannins and highly structured; intense blackberry, currant, licorice, and dried herb aromas and flavors; this is one to cellar for at least a decade

2007 Hess Collection Mount Veeder ($48) another impressive mountain vineyard; beautiful blackberry, currant and earthy flavors; dry, yet balanced and complex with cedar, and tobacco notes

2007 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($40) classic Napa Cab; noticeable oak, concentrated dark berries, black currant, chocolate, and spices; somewhat tough tannins right now but lots of potential for development

2007 Jordan Alexander Valley ($52) elegant and dry, with seductive blackberry and black currant fruit offset with herbal, and tobacco notes; dare I say “Bordeaux-like?”

2008 Treana Red Paso Robles ($35) from Paso Robles pioneer Austin Hope; blended with 30% syrah; ripe, juicy dark fruits and black licorice; hints of tobacco and spice; luscious and graceful

2007 J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard ($40) St. Helena vineyard; admirable depth and complexity; toasty oak, elegant but concentrated blackberry and cherry; firm tannins; immediately enjoyable

2008 Justin Isosceles Paso Robles ($62) all five Bordeaux varietals in this intriguing blend; dried berries with earthy tones; scents of iron and herbs; well structured

For Chardonnay Devotees:

2009 Stonestreet Bear Point ($55) smoky oak and buttery notes overlay complex citrus, peach and tropical fruit with stony notes; creamy texture but very brisk, so much so it is the rare Chardonnay that needs a few years to open up but will reward patience

2009 Alta Maria Santa Maria Valley ($25) just a really delightful wine; juicy tangerine and citrus with a ribbon of lively acidity; honey and cinnamon add complexity

2009 Landmark Overlook Sonoma County ($28) another delightful, great value; fairly full-bodied with a complex of aromas and flavors including honey, citrus, nectarine, and peach

2009 Patz & Hall Chardonnays: This Pinot Noir and Chardonnay specialist produces a wide array of wines from many of the best vineyards in California. Three new releases, though pricey, really deliver the goods:

2009 Sonoma Coast ($35) focused tropical fruit, creamy texture with a mineral edge and a refreshing finish
2009 Russian River Valley Dutton Ranch ($39) rich, oaky style bursting with pineapple, citrus, and pear
2009 Carneros Hudson Vineyard ($55) oaky, buttery, with a lush palate; vibrant pear and tangerine

A final thought. Whichever wines you ultimately choose, and any of these would make a wonderful choice, be sure to take time this holiday season to raise a glass with friends or family and appreciate the goodness in your glass, on the table, and in each other.

November 7, 2011January 4, 2012

DRINK BEAUJOLAIS TO CELEBRATE CHANGING OF THE SEASON

If it’s been a while since you had a glass of Beaujolais, now is the time to rediscover this refreshing red. Beaujolais is what we wine writers call “accessible;” it’s food friendly; and one of the best values around. It’s also an ideal wine to celebrate the harvest and coming of fall, which also signals its candidacy for your Thanksgiving dinner.

Beaujolais comes from the so-named French region north of the city of Lyon. The only legally approved red grape is gamay and the traditional vinification technique is the whole bunch fermentation process called carbonic maceration. The characteristic feature of this uncommon type of vinification is what is called intra-cellular fermentation, where fermentation occurs within the berries in an anaerobic – oxygen free – atmosphere.

This combination yields wines known for a distinctive flavor profile of fresh, mostly bright red fruits, with floral, herbal and mineral notes, and lively acidity. As a bonus, most are moderate alcohol (12.5% to 13%). The wines are best served slightly chilled and, as I suggested, they are great with food, especially bistro-style cooking and the earthy dishes of the season.

Beaujolais Nouveau, the fresh, quaffable celebration red released every year on the third Thursday of November, is probably the best known wine from the region and I did enjoy the 2011 Georges Duboeuf ($11). But it is the “regular’ Beaujolais that interests me most. I’ve recently enjoyed several good ones from the highly touted 2009 vintage and a few from the nearly as good 2010 vintage.

One of the best vintages in memory, the 2009 vintage grapes achieved ripeness but also higher alcohol, though still lower than the typical California wine. The best still achieve balance, with generous fruit and notable richness and complexity but more structure. 2010 generally was picked later than usual and yielded more typically refreshing wines – quite crisp, ripe and forward fruity.

Wines labeled simply “Beaujolais” come from vineyards in the southern half of the region and typically are light and fruity. They emulate the simple, exuberant style most often associated with Beaujolais. Next in the quality hierarchy is “Beaujolais-Villages” indicating wines blended from vineyards near specifically authorized villages in the central area of the region. These wines generally show more character.

A reliable option here is the 2009 Beaujolais-Villages ($13) from the great Burgundy négociant Louis Jadot. This wine shows a typically lighter but fleshy character with touches of licorice and lively red fruits. Also look for the 2009 Domaine de la Madone ($14) produced by the Bererd family from vineyards with steep slopes, old vines, and low yields that provide fresh and nicely concentrated juice, with good acidity.

Next try a wine from one of the ten most important villages (or “cru” located in the hilly northern half of the region): Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Régnié, and Saint-Amour. Here, a great place to start is with the “Flower Label” wines of négociant Georges Dubeouf, probably the most respected and certainly the most widely available purveyor. I recently enjoyed Duboeuf’s 2010 well-packed Brouilly ($15) and juicy, welcoming Fleurie ($16).

There also are single estate Beaujolais that are a special treat for their distinctiveness. A good example from Duboeuf is the 2010 Morgon “Jean Descombes” ($17) – quite full and rich, yet balanced and velvety. Another excellent choice is the 2009 “Domaine de la Voûte des Crozes” ($19). Nicole Chanrion produces this Côte de Brouilly by blending several old vine lots. Its intense red berry fruit is offset with spicy herbs and modest tannin.

In some ways, an even more impressive example is the 2009 Cuvee Traditionelle Vielles Vignes ($18) byPierre-Marie Chermette, proprietor of “Domaine du Vissoux.” As suggested in the name, a traditional winemaking approach using grapes from old vines yielded a wine with character well beyond what is expected from its simple Beaujolais designation.

From another estate worth seeking out, this one in Fleurie, is the 2009 “Clos de la Roilette” ($20). The Coudert family owns a small parcel on an eastern facing slope that yields wine with more aging ability than most Beaujolais. It’s admirably complex, with mixed herbs and spices complementing dark fruits and a sleek texture.

Finally, a rarity I must recommend: a white Beaujolais, the 2010 Domaine des Terres Dorées Beaujolais Blanc ($16). From his estate in the south just north of Lyon, owner and winemaker Jean-Paul Brun produces a number of top reds but it is this unique Chardonnay that demands attention. Wonderful citrus, melon and tropical fruit are enhanced with delicate minerality and good structure. It will stand up to any other French or California Chardonnay at twice (maybe even three times) the price.

So, the basic theme here is incredible value. Also, with a couple of notable exceptions, the best usually come from small, artisan, family-owned estates. But most of all, it’s Joie de vivre – the joy of living that this region exemplifies.

October 8, 2011October 11, 2011

CELEBRATE COLORADO WINES!

It’s been a good year for Colorado Wine.

For the first time since the repeal of Prohibition, Colorado wineries reported more than one million liters of wine to the Colorado Department of Revenue, an increase of 10 percent over the previous year. Over the past five years, production has increased 70 percent and Colorado wines’ market share, though still comparatively small, has grown 30 percent.

Mt. Garfield & the Bookcliffs Overlook the Grand Valley

Doug Caskey, executive director of the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board noted, “In the face of a small, difficult harvest in 2010 [production down one-third from 2009] and ongoing economic uncertainty, our wineries continue to expand.”

There are now 100 licensed wineries (compared to six in 1990 and 64 in 2006) in Colorado. Front Range wineries contributed 41 percent of the wine volume reported to the Department of Revenue, while the wineries in the Grand Valley American Viticultural Area (along the Colorado River between Palisade and Grand Junction) accounted for 47 percent. Eighty percent of the grapes grown in Colorado come from the Grand Valley AVA, though grapes also are grown in Delta, Montrose, Montezuma, Fremont, Pueblo, Boulder, Larimer, Weld and Kit Carson counties.

"Divinity" by The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey

And you can find wineries located pretty much all over the state. At last count, the Grand Valley on the Western Slope is home to 24 wineries surrounding the cities of Palisade and Grand Junction, while Delta and Montrose counties to the south, including the West Elks AVA, hosts 19 more. Surprisingly, there also are five producers further south in the state’s Four Corners area. And there are even 12 more wineries and tasting rooms scattered throughout our Rocky Mountains. On the Front Range, there are nine more wineries and tasting rooms dotted around Colorado Springs and Cañon City. Finally, in the Denver/Boulder/Ft. Collins region, wine hunters can choose from 38 wineries and tasting rooms.

Around the state there are now several well worth the trip wine festivals that offer fun opportunities to experience Colorado wines throughout the year. In the Grand Valley, the 20^th Annual Colorado Mountain Winefest, the state’s premier wine festival, was just completed. And the Mountain Winefest organizers successfully hosted the first annual Colorado Winefest held last June at The Shops at Northfield Stapleton in Denver.

A Celebration of Premier Colorado Wines was an elegant tasting event held two days earlier at the Governor’s Residence. The event featured wines given the awards from the Colorado-only wine competition judged by national and local wine experts under the auspices of the American Wine Society.

There also are two great Colorado wine festivals off the I-25 Corridor south of Denver. The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey in Cañon City just celebrated the 10th Annual Harvest Fest and Winemaker’s Dinner. The Ninth Annual Manitou Springs Colorado Wine Festival was held in June. In addition to excellent wine and food, these are special community events anxiously anticipated each year.

As the Colorado industry has grown into a fine adolescence, as I have heard Caskey describe it, it seems the challenge for its journey to adulthood is to find an identity. One of the most interesting things to me about the Colorado wine

IMG_1603a — Ag Commissioner John Salazar and Gov. John Hickenlooper Survey the Bounty

industry is that most growers and wineries for a long time focused on the “Big Three” French varietals – cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and chardonnay. Merlot is the most widely planted red grape in the state, with cabernet sauvignon close behind, but plantings of syrah, cabernet franc and pinot noir are increasing, as wines from these varieties show real promise. As for the whites, riesling is now the most widely grown, which makes sense to me, since I’ve long thought it made the state’s best wine. After chardonnay, there are small but significant amounts of gewürztraminer, viognier and pinot gris.

As for the future, with the diversity of soils and climate in Colorado, I expect to see further experimentation. And as vintners learn more about which grapes grow best where and about what has made other wine-producing region successful (maybe a topic for another column), I expect the already improving quality will advance even further. Finally, let’s hope more restaurants will find room on their wine lists for Colorado wines

And you can help promote Colorado wine during the fourth annual Regional Wine Week. The blog DrinkLocalWine is hosting the event from October 9 through October 15. Wine writers, bloggers and consumers are encouraged to share information about wine from what organizers call “The Other 47” states (no California, Washington or Oregon). Share a story or personal anecdote about a Colorado wine, winery, wine region, or wine event. The only catch is you have to do it in 47 words. For more information about Regional Wine Week and the contest, check out www.drinklocalwine.com.

October 8, 2011January 4, 2012

GREAT AMERICAN BEER FESTIVAL CELEBRATES THIRTY YEARS OF GREAT AMERICAN CRAFT BEER

The 30^th Great American Beer Festival (GABF), held a few weeks ago at the Colorado Convention Center, stands as a testament to the intrinsic appeal of craft brewed beer … and to the vision and hard work of the people at the Brewers Association (which organizes it) and to the craft brewers that have proliferated across the country over these years.

While most everything else in the American economy is contracting, it seems the craft beer world just keeps expanding. Attendance, volunteers, and the number of breweries, beers on the floor, beers in the competition, categories judged (83), beer styles (134) and judges all increased! The GABF remains the largest commercial beer competition in the world, with 3,930 beers, an 11 percent increase over last year, submitted from 526 breweries for 248 medals.

Colorado brewers brought home 44 medals, second only to California. Salute the following breweries:

Amicas, Salida
Backcountry, Frisco
Blue Moon, Denver
Boulder Beer Co., Boulder
Bull & Bush, Denver
C.B. & Potts, Ft. Collins and Westminster
Colorado Boy, Ridgway, CO
Copper Kettle, Denver
Coors, Golden
Crabtree, Greeley
Del Norte, Denver
Denver Beer Co., Denver
Dostal Alley, Central City
Dry Dock, Aurora

Durango, Durango
Equinox, Ft. Collins
Funkwerks, Ft. Collins
Glenwood Canyon, Glenwood Springs
Grimm Brothers, Loveland
Mountain Sun, Boulder
New Belgium, Fort Collins
Odell”s, Ft. Collins
Oskar Blues, Longmont
Rock Bottom, Westminster
SandLot, Denver
Ska, Durango
Strange Brewing Co., Denver
Upslope, Boulder
Wynkoop, Denver

It was particularly fun beer to try a “new” beer style this year: pumpkin beer! Obviously tailored for fall, these earthy, deeply flavored beers were most interesting. And Colorado did extremely well in the category with Upslope won gold and Bull & Bush won bronze.

I was glad to see the festival continued its emphasis on matching beer with food. This was prominently on display in the more intimate Farm-to-Table Pavilion where chefs created dishes using Colorado products to pair with selected beers from around the country. Even some of the Colorado farmers and ranchers were there to talk about their products.

As a “wine guy,” I’m well versed in the affinity between wine and food. So, I have been pleased to see craft brewers in recent years put more effort into making beers that are best drunk with food. The Farm-to-Table Pavilion presented a fine opportunity to discover how much local foods rendered by skilled chefs have in common with craft beer from small and independent breweries. This innovative event is destined to become a perennial highlight of the GABF.

Also impressive was that the festival continued its efforts to remain on the cutting edge of sustainability initiatives. In partnership with ZeroHero (a Colorado company that works across the country reducing the impact of major events and festivals through zero-waste management, alternative energy and education), the Colorado Convention Center, Centerplate Catering, Governors Energy Office, Colorado Carbon Fund, A1 Organics, and Renewable Choice Energy, the GABF worked to reduce its carbon footprint and come as close to a zero-waste event as possible.

Here are some of the programs implemented at the festival:

At least 85% of the waste to be diverted away from the landfill
Most disposable items were recyclable or compostable
All glass and plastic bottles, cans, paper and cardboard to be recycled
Use of styrofoam at food outlets in the event was banned
Bulk condiments used at concession areas
All compost processed by local company
Carbon production offset by purchasing wind credits
House lights kept at 50% during the show

Great beer, good food, and helping the environment, what more could we ask?

Well, how about continued growth in the craft beer industry. According to the Brewers Association, the craft beer industry in 2010 achieved growth rates of 11% by volume and 12% by dollars. And by August 2011, there were 1829 breweries operating, the most in 100 years, with at least 760 more in planning.

Let’s all raise a glass … or two!

September 30, 2011October 3, 2011

AMERICAN BORDEAUX-STYLE RED BLENDS WORTH A TASTE

Napa vineyards peoples palate rich mauro

Given the international prestige of Bordeaux, it is not surprising that other winemakers would have an interest in imitating that region’s successful winemaking formula. The Bordeaux tradition of blending different grape varieties to create a complete, more multidimensional wine has long captivated the imagination of winemakers and the taste buds of wine drinkers.

This is also true in California, even though varietally labeled wines have dominated the market. Certainly, winemakers and wine drinkers have had and continue to have something of a love affair with Cabernet Sauvignon. And many still appreciate a good Merlot. But most of the wines labeled as such are likely to include at least a small percentage of the other, as well as the other traditional Bordeaux varieties: cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot.

In this column, I focus on wines that are intentionally Bordeaux-style blends, not varietal wines with dollops of the other varieties. Most of these wines carry a proprietary name, although some are labeled “Meritage” (a designation established for such California blends in the late 1980s and pronounced like “heritage”). While Cabernet Sauvignon usually is the dominant component, the other varieties will show up in larger quantities than for a varietally labeled wine.

And these wines may be growing in popularity. In my research, I found a market analysis of wine trends reprting that the “red blends/Meritage wines grew by 14% over all price categories. It was the fastest growing varietal category” over the year.

My favorite wine from my recent tasting came from Seven Hills Winery in the Walla Walla Valley. When Casey and Vicky McClellan founded the winery in 1988, it was only the fifth in the area that now boasts over 100 producers. And Seven Hills has become one of Washington state’s most highly regarded wineries crafting exceptional merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah, riesling and pinot gris.

The Bordeaux blend is labeled “Pentad.” The 2006 ($50) combines 65% cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, carmenère, cabernet franc and malbec from Walla Walla vineyards. It is a great example of the type, full-bodied, rich, andcomplex. Abundant fruit of dark berries and currants are accented with spicy herbal notes and balancing acidity.

The entry from the Dry Creek Vineyard was nearly as good. Founded by David Stare in 1972, this is one of the modern day pioneers of Dry Creek Valley wine. While a variety of wines are made, the winery built its reputation on Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel. But don’t ignore its Meritage wine “The Mariner.” The 2006 ($40) is 50% cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, petit verdot from Dry Creek Valley vineyards. Its ripe dark fruits (plum, black cherry, currant, berries) meld with layers of black licorice, mineral and spice. It has a somewhat dry and rustic feel, though, that is a nice counterpoint.

Not far behind and a particularly good value is Bennett Lane’s “Maximus Red Feasting Wine.” Bennett Lane is the project of Randy and Lisa Lynch, owners of a successful marketing company and a NASCAR West team, who purchased the property in 2002. The 2006 Maximus ($35) blends 64% cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, malbec, cabernet franc and petit verdot from vineyard sources up and down the Napa Valley. It is fairly full-bodied with firm tannins and shows deep fruit, including currant and blackberry but also hints of wood, licorice and cocoa.

Finally, a pleasant surprise came from Ironstone Vineyards. Owned by the Kautz family, who were long time farmers in the Sierra Foothills between Sacramento and Lake Tahoe, the family decided in 1988 to make their own wines. The 2006 Reserve Meritage ($45), which is 80% cabernet sauvignon plus equal parts merlot and petite verdot, opens with intense leafy notes (mint, forest, tobacco). This is followed by black cherry and blackberry flavors delivered in a dry, firm structure.

Try any of these wines and you will get a good sense of the balance and complexity that can be achieved through the craft of blending different varietals. And you will taste the synergy winemakers can achieve in creating a product that embodies the classic sentiment of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts.

August 25, 2011October 3, 2011

NOTHING PETITE ABOUT PETITE SIRAH

These days I find consumers are more interested in experiencing wines with unfamiliar flavor profiles and more reasonable prices. If you are looking for full flavored wines that provide a lot of wine for the money, consider Petite Sirah. I don’t think you will be disappointed.

The roots of the petite sirah vine can be traced back to the south of France in the 1880s, where Dr. Francois Durif propagated a crossing of syrah and the obscure variety peloursin. The resulting vine naturally was designated “durif.” Although the grape never caught on in France, it was brought to California and became valued as a blending grape to give wines structure, body and color. In fact, many of the generically labeled red wines produced during the following century contained large amounts of petite sirah. Now, DNA testing has proven that the vast majority of what has been known by that name in California is actually durif.

Concannon Vineyard is credited as the first California winery to bottle a varietal Petite Sirah in 1961. Foppiano Vineyards, another Petite Sirah proponent, followed soon after. Interestingly, these prescient families staked their reputations on a grape that had declined (from about 7500 acres in the 1930s to around 4500 during the 1960s). It paid off because acreage subsequently grew to a peak of about 14,000 acres by 1976, as the grape often was used to improve the quality of many generic red wine blends. Then the grape went into decline again during the 1980s and 1990s and acreage dropped to around 2400 in 1995. Since then, though, many vintners again have come to realize the quality possible from the grape and plantings almost tripled by 2005 and reached about 7500 acres in 2010.

Wineries up and down the state now are making varietal Petite Sirah wines. And a promotional organization, P. S. I Love You (www.psiloveyou.org), which was founded in 2002 with 39 charter members, has more than doubled to 81 winery members in 2011. I think it’s fair to say that organization and its founding director, Jo Diaz deserves much of the credit for the grape’s growing popularity.

Despite its name and origins, petite sirah grape is not a lesser version of syrah. It is a distinct variety that happens to have syrah as one of its parents. Thus, it can display a similar flavor profile to syrah – dark berries, tobacco, leather, earth, mineral and pepper, with an ability to age well. But there are differences – it often produces bigger, denser, more rustic wines that generally age quite well.

Petite Sirah also is a good companion for full flavored foods, including red meats, game, strong cheeses, mushroom dishes, stews and the like. It also would be a fine companion for grilled foods and barbeque. One serving note, though. These wines generally are so full flavored and tannic they will stay fresh for several hours and, in some cases, even a few days after opening a bottle.

I wrote my first review of Petite Sirah in 2003. Although most of the wines were quite good and showed nice dark berry fruit, they also revealed the rough edges and strong tannins of the grape’s rustic nature. I often appreciate rustic wines but many took it too far. With my second tasting report in 2007, I noticed more refinement in the wines but many were still big and tough, a bit exhausting to drink. This time, I was impressed that as a group (20 producers and 24 wines tasted blind), the wines showed more abundant fruit, more complexity, smoother textures, more manageable tannins, and overall better balance. My favorites most clearly reflected these qualities on my palate.

To the extent any of my tastings are representative of California Petite Sirah in general, I perceive this as a positive evolution in style and quality. My favorites most clearly reflected these qualities on my palate. One thing that hasn’t changed, though: Petite Sirah still delivers a lot of character for the money.

I have to say the biggest surprise of my tasting is that Miro Tcholakov made my two favorite wines. His 2008 Miro Cellars ($30) uses fruit from Rockpile, a northern Sonoma County appellation. And tons of fruit there is, along with subtle complexities like licorice and a concentrated, yet elegant impact. The only downside is there are just 50 cases. Miro also is responsible for the 2009 Trentadue Alexander Valley Estate ($18). I really loved this wine’s berry pie fruit, silky texture and powdery tannins. I should add I also liked the reserve style 2009 Trentadue “La Storia” ($28), which showed more woodsy, tobacco notes but also strong acids that suggest a long life.

And there were other good wines from Sonoma. The 2007 Field Stone “Staten Family Reserve” ($35) from and Alexander Valley vineyard planted in 1894 that is now farmed organically and sustainably, was rather brooding and tough at first but eventually yielded to time and revealed deep fruit to go along with the strong tannins. From one of the earliest Petite Sirah advocates, the Foppiano Russian River Valley ($20) had nice blueberry fruit accented with cinnamon and tobacco aromas and toasty, peppery flavors.

And then there was another surprise. Two of my other favorites came from Cabernet country, the Napa Valley: 2008 R & B Cellars “Pizzicato” ($28) and 2008 Ballentine “Fig Tree Vineyard” ($25). Both wines come from single vineyards and both are concentrated, tannic wines that would benefit from cellaring. The R & B adds black licorice, pine and tobacco notes, while the Ballentine goes more to ripe berries and spice.

Other northern California wine regions also were well represented. From El Dorado County in the Sierra Foothills, the 2007 Lava Cap “Granite Hill Vineyard Reserve” ($30) began big and brash with touches of mint and cinnamon but later opened up to reveal lovely sweet fruit. From nearby Lodi, the 2007 McCay ($24) seemed reticent to show its fruit at first. Burnt notes and tight tannins dominated the wine but that dissipated and later the wine showed good rasiny fruit and hints of cinnamon and mint. By contrast, the 2007 Shannon Ridge ($24) from Lake County, although finishing with tough tannins, immediately displayed its intense blueberry fruit. Despite considerable size and weight, it had an enticing texture.

I also enjoyed two wines from Paso Robles. A 2007 Clayhouse Red Cedar Vineyard ($25) offered spice and coffee in the nose but lots of fruit and soft tannins on the palate. The 2007 Vina Robles “Jardine Estate” ($26) was dominated by dry forest and spicy herb notes but presented a nice core of red fruit with black licorice followed by a hint of bitterness.

Finally, there also were several notable values.

• 2009 The Crusher “Grower’s Selection” ($14). One of three wines in my tasting from Don Sebastiani & Sons, a company that offers an extensive portfolio of wines made with grapes from numerous regions in the state. This one benefits from Clarksburg fruit that yields tasty currant and raisin fruit balanced with soft tannins. Their 2008 Smoking Loon California ($9) is a bit too syrupy for me but that is offset with tobacco notes and fresh tannins. It should be a crowd pleaser.
• 2008 Bogle ($11). This winery, well known for its value priced wines, has been producing Petite Sirah since 1978. Juicy black fruits are offset with minty peppery notes.
• 2007 Parducci (Mendocino) ($11) is made with organically grown grapes from the oldest winery in Mendocino. Parducci is deeply committed to sustainability from the vineyard to the winery and has produced a juicy wine with fresh fruit and admirable intensity.
• 2008 Concannon “Conservancy” ($15). This winery, founded in the Livermore Valley 1883, has sourced the grapes for this wine only from growers who have placed their land in a legal trust that protects the vineyard from urban develop. That’s especially good for consumers because this wine is full flavored and large scaled.

Although Cabernet Sauvignon is by far still the most popular red wine, producers and consumers alike have become interested in alternatives both for more reasonable prices and to experience different flavor profiles. If you haven’t tried it lately, I suggest you consider Petite Sirah. If you are looking for full flavored wines that generally provide a lot of wine for the money, I don’t think you will be disappointed.

August 16, 2011October 3, 2011

TRY WASHINGTON RIESLING TO BEAT THE HEAT

I’m sitting here writing this column on the seventeenth straight 90°+ day glad that I have a glass of Riesling next to me to keep me refreshed.

I think the riesling grape makes the greatest white wines in the world. Especially in Germany and Alsace, it produces aromatic wines of bracing acidity and potentially long life. Typically, fragrant, floral aromas lead into fresh green apple and stone fruit – pear, peach, or apricot – and occasionally pineapple. Most intriguing, there often is a distinctive mineral component. Cooler climates in Australia, Canada, California and Oregon also produce good examples. But today I’m drinking and writing about Washington State Riesling.

You may be surprised to read that riesling was one of the first varieties grown in Washington and still is one of the state’s favorite wines. St. Michelle Wine Estates is the dominant player in the Washington wine industry. And the company has been in the forefront in establishing Riesling as the state’s premier white wine grape. And with Chateau St. Michelle, Columbia Crest, and Snoqualmie wineries it is the largest Riesling producer in the world.

Chateau St. Michelle, which was established in 1967 and pioneered contemporary fine wine making in Washington, is the state’s largest producer, yet consistently delivers quality at remarkable prices. And there is a style to fit your preference. The 2010 Dry ($9) sports refreshing peach notes. The 2010 Riesling ($9) is just slightly sweet, with juicy apple and pear. The 2010 Harvest Select, ($10) is quite sweet but balanced with crisp pear and apple.

Ever since its opening 35 years ago, it seems Columbia Crest perennially is recognized for providing outstanding value. This certainly true of the 2010 Grand Estates ($11) which impressed me with its juicy apple and pear fruit delivered with lively acidity that balances a slightly honeyed sweetness.

I also enjoyed the two Snoqualmie wines I tasted. The 2010 Winemaker’s Select ($10) is fairly sweet but crisp and refreshing and bursting with pear and apricot fruit. Snoqualmie has distinguished itself as a leader in sustainable farming and winemaking in Washington. The 2009 “Naked” Columbia Valley ($12) is made with certified organically grown grapes in a certified organic facility. It’s bright off-dry apricot fruit is off set with mineral and spice.

St. Michelle’s premier Riesling and arguably America’s best Riesling is Eroica, a collaboration with Germany’s renowned Dr. Loosen winery. The 2009 ($24), its tenth vintage, harmonizes succulent peach with crisp citrus, spice and mineral notes. As good as this outstanding wine is now, it will improve in the cellar.

Not far behind St. Michelle in production and influence is Pacific Rim. The brand was created by Randall Grahm of California’s Bonny Doon Vineyard in 1992 using Washington fruit and was sold to new owners who established it as its own winery in Washington in 2006. I believe these folks when they say they are passionate about Riesling, as 90% of their production comes from that grape. They make countless bottlings, including single vineyards, an organic Riesling and the three tasted for this report: a floral, citrus, 2010 Dry; a 2010 Riesling with slightly sweet pear and apple; and a luscious 2010 Sweet that revealed tropical and peach fruit. All are a wallet friendly $10.

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, Hogue Cellars is another large Washington winery that is known for great values. For 30 years, Hogue has made an extensive line of well-priced wines delivering good quality. Their 2009 Columbia Valley Riesling ($10) did not disappoint. Juicy green apple and a touch of orange come through with a nice balance of cleansing acidity and medium sweetness.

Finally, I must emphasize that numerous smaller wineries make excellent Riesling worth seeking out. Such as Seven Hills Winery, where Casey and Vicky McClellan have been making wine from their Walla Walla home since 1988. Casey crafts exceptional merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah, often considered at the top of the Washington quality ladder. He also makes excellent Riesling and Pinot Gris. I was extremely impressed with the 2009 Seven Hills Columbia Valley ($14). It was made in a refreshing low alcohol style that is slightly sweet but bursting with juicy apple, citrus and pear with an enticing mineral note.