The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

A SPARKLING NEW YEAR?

If there ever was a reason to celebrate one year ending and a new year beginning, this is it. Several bottles over. From Argentina, California, France, Italy and Oregon, here’s good riddance to 2020 and a hopeful welcome to 2021. 

Argentina. Domaine Bousquet Brut Pinot Noir/Chardonnay ($13). A pioneer in Tupungato, the highest district in the Uco Valley sub-region of Mendoza, Bousquet also is notable for its commitment to sustainable farming and organic production. All wines are 100 percent certified organic. This one is full of fresh apple, pear and cherry.

California. Frank Family Vineyards in Napa Valley has produced sparkling wine since its founding in 1993, continuing the tradition of the previous owner Hanns Kornell Champagne Cellars, which occupied the historic winery building (the original Larkmead Winery) from 1958 to 1992. The 2015 Brut Rosé ($55), with 90 percent pinot noir and 10 percent chardonnay, reveals pretty strawberry and cherry flavors gliding on a creamy palate. The 2016 Rouge ($55) despite more chardonnay (27 percent) and less pinot noir (73 percent), is ruby red as it experiences greater skin contact. It is vibrant, rich and creamy, with fresh acidity. 

Sosie Wines is located in the Bennett Valley of Sonoma County, a geography that funnels cooling Pacific air inland. Sosie emphasizes a French winemaking style to achieve precision and finesse in their wines. The winery has produced two unique, intriguing sparklers featuring Rhone varieties. The 2018 “First Things First” ($30) is made from roussanne. Very dry, it displays crisp stone fruits wrapped in brioche. It is barrel fermented with native yeast and full malolactic fermentation to achieve a delightful creaminess. The 2018 “A Moment of Weakness” Sparkling Red ($35) is 100 percent syrah and reveals dark berries and plums, with baking spice. 

Not surprisingly, the sparkling wine from Sea Smoke, a highly regarded Pinot Noir specialist is 100 percent pinot noir. From sustainable and biodynamic estate vineyards in Santa Barbara’s Santa Rita Hills, the 2015 “Sea Spray” Blanc de Noirs is another crisp, dry succulent wine. Fresh strawberries mix with brown butter in this energetic, complex bubbly. 

France. Billecart-Salmon, founded in 1818, has produced a unique cuvée, which is entirely vinified in oak and composed of the three Champagne varieties – pinot nor, chardonnay, and pinot meunier – in equal proportions. The Brut Sous Bois ($80) shows a dramatic bouquet of citrus, cherry and butter and a harmonious expression of citrus and pear coupled with a creamy mouthfeel. As the name suggests, there also is a complimentary earthy component.

Italy. Foamy, fruity Prosecco from northeastern Italy has emerged in recent years as Italy’s go-to valuebollicine (bubbles). Adami, one of the best producers, is known for pioneering single vineyard Prosecco. Its distinctive production methods of giving the wines extended lees contact after initial fermentation and conducting the second fermentation in small batches throughout the year, instead of in one large batch shortly after harvest. Four recent releases illustrate the results: 

• “Garbèl” Treviso Brut ($17) dry, crisp and tart with lemon and pear;
• “Bosco di Gica” Valdobbiadene Superiore Brut ($20) bottled with a touch of residual sugar, which lends body rather than sweetness to the palate, offers uplifting foam, brisk citrus with round texture, and tangy finish;
• 2019 “Col Credas” Valdobbiadene Rive di Farra di Soligo Extra Brut ($23) over nine years in development, it is very dry clean, refreshing and elegant with exotic fruit;
• 2018 “Vigneto Giardino” Valdobbiadene Rive di Colbertaldo Asciutto ($23) is from the family’s first vineyard (purchased in 1920) and in 1933 the first single-vineyard Prosecco ever made; it is fruity, focused and intense with a hint of anise. “Asciutto” means dry.

Although Piemonte in Italy’s northwest is most famous for its red wines – Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, etc. – the region also excels with spumante. Enrico Serafino, established in the Roero district 140 years ago, produces fine reds but is best known as a specialist in the production of high quality Metodo Classico (referring to the Champagne Method). One the winery’s best is the 2016 “Oudeis” Alta Langa Brut DOCG ($28), made with chardonnay and pinot nero. It is a fantastic value with dramatic apple, yeasty notes, and impressive structure. 

Oregon. Since 1987, Argyle has been one Oregon’s top Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producers and arguably, the state’s best sparkling wine maker. Among its impressive portfolio, the 2016 Blanc de Noirs ($35), mostly pinot noir and a touch of pinot meunier from the Willamette Valley’s Eola-Amity Hills district. Its delightfully fresh and precise red berry fruit, savory notes and creamy texture a just the ticket. 

It’s always a good idea to support local businesses. And “buy local” has become a popular outcry in recent years. While it is most common in arts and crafts and especially in food, it also is relevant for beer, wine and spirits. And especially with the economic challenges caused by the pandemic, it is even more important to support these small businesses. Since this is a wine column and I am based in Colorado, I am suggesting Colorado wine for the holidays this year.

Colorado has a burgeoning wine industry (over 130 businesses) that is growing in national recognition. “Colorado wine is a fine choice for holiday meals, particularly the crisp, dry Rieslings or Tempranillo and some Italian varieties that would be a great red option for the bird. And of course, Cabernet Franc for roast beef or lamb,” said Doug Caskey, executive director of the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board. 

And, of course, think Colorado when looking for a holiday wine gift. Many wine shops in the state carry Colorado wine and many of the wineries have holiday gift offerings, whether individual bottles or special packages. A few of my favorites include Bookcliff Vineyards, Creekside Cellars and  Bonacquisti. Most wineries have online sales available on their own websites which you can link to from www.coloradowine.com. 

A special choice is The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey in Canyon City about two hours south of Denver, has many options worth perusing. You can purchase individual bottles but the winery offers a 15 percent case discount on most of their wines (assortments permitted) and 10 percent off six bottles. A special offering for the season is 20 percent off bottles of Riesling. You can choose from their full line of wines, including special releases like Divinity and Vineyard Sunset and exclusive bottlings, such as – Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and the flagship Revelation red wine blend – also are offered, although discounts are not available for these. They also are offering $15 shipping on orders over $125. You can choose by the bottle or cradled in a branded wooden gift box for an extra charge. Check out them out at https://abbeywinery.com.

The website also has numerous non-wine items available. A favorite is the set of 100% Extra Virgin Arbequina Olive Oil and Balsamic vinegar. Aged in Juniper and cypress barrels for up to eighteen years, the corrugated gift set ($47.50) contains olive oil, balsamic vinegar, seasoning mix, and a Portuguese hand-painted dipping dish. 

I also have for you two good options from California wineries with a Colorado connection. 

How about an opening to a new world of winemaking and wine photography with a gift from Aperture Cellars? Founded in 2009 in Sonoma County by winemaker and Boulder native Jesse Katz with his father, world famous photographer Andy Katz, each wine label features an original Andy Katz photograph. Andy is one of the most sought-after wine country photographers in the world, though his portfolio ranges beyond wine. 

Jesse has said he prefers Sonoma County, especially its cool sites, because it offers the best of both worlds: new world fruit and old world elegance. I would describe his winemaking approach as allowing the energy the soil has translated into the grapes to shine through his wines just as a camera’s aperture allows light to shine through. 

For someone not even forty years old yet, Jesse has an impressive list of accomplishments. His father brought him on visits to the most famous vineyards around the world. He got to experience wine as part of the food and cultural experience. Since graduating Fresno State, he traveled California and the world getting experience, including work at Chateau Petrus, Fess Parker, Screaming Eagle, Lancaster Estate and more. He also has made wine for Von Miller, and Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel.

Cabernet Sauvignon is Aperture’s signature wine but what he calls the “Soil Series” also includes a Bordeaux Red Blend, and a Barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc, and Chenin Blanc. The “Site Series” offers single vineyard wines. 

Aperture wines are available at select locations in Colorado, including retailers: and restaurants. The wines and special gift options also are available at the website (https://aperture-cellars.com).

And how about wine from Denver Broncos iconic quarterback John Elway? 7Cellars  was founded by Elway and his business partner, along with Napa winemaker Rob Mondavi, Jr. about seven years ago. Now, 7Cellars has expanded with a new portfolio – The Farm Collection – created in collaboration with ONEHOPE Winery. The line of three varietal wines (2018 vintage retails for $19) celebrates Elway’s college days (“The Farm’ is the knickname for Stanford University) and is intended to be more approachable (in price and drinkability) than Elway’s Reserve wines. 

The 2018 Chardonnay is sourced from Arroyo Seco, the 2018 Pinot Noir from Monterey, and the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles. If you cannot find the wines in local shops, they can be purchased online at www.7cellars.com. There also is a three-bottle magnetic gift box for $110. And for each bottle purchased, 7Cellars makes a donation to Team Rubicon, a nonprofit organization that supports, trains and deploys U.S. veterans on disaster relief missions around the world. To date, more than 5,870 veterans have been supported through sales of 7Cellars wines. 

Finally, if you are looking ahead to getting back out on the road in the coming months and have wine country in mind, again I suggest you keep it local. A nice guide is the recently released The Wines of Southwest U.S.A.($40).

In the book, author Jessica Dupuy  presents a useful hand book to the wines and wineries of Colorado, Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas. In each chapter, she covers the history, climate, wine producing regions, and the challenges each state wine industry face the future. Of course, there are highlights of key wineries that shouldn’t be missed. Each chapter also concludes with welcome recommendations for where to eat and stay. This book would make a fine gift for any wine country traveler. 

Despite a period early this century when its reputation took a hit, merlot is one of the most widely planted grape varieties in the world. It is the second most planted variety in the United States and the fourth most planted red variety in California. And Merlot is third in U.S. sales of California red wines after Cabernet Sauvignon and Red Blends. 

Merlot wine can be mistaken for its sibling Cabernet Sauvignon. The major difference is that it tends to present a softer texture and rounder mouthfeel. Expect cherry and blueberry fruit and herbal, sometimes chocolatey notes. 

It can produce Cabernet-like quality usually at more reasonable prices. And I did find several good values for this report. I also found the world-class quality one would expect at higher prices. Like Cabernet, the best wines are full, rich, featuring dark fruits and solid structure, often with savory or baking spice elements, balancing power, elegance, and complexity. All wines are listed in order of my preference, regardless of price.

2017 Duckhorn Three Palms Vineyard ($110) Considered by many California’s premier Merlot producer for the last 40 years. From the storied vineyard on the Napa Valley floor, this wine offers layers of succulent black cherry with toast, herbs and spice balanced with sweet oak. It is focused and rich but structured to develop well over the next several years. 

2017 Chappellet Napa Valley ($45) This maker of some of Napa’s most prized Cabs, also excels with Merlot. Expect plump cherry, blackberry, vanilla, cocoa, and herbaceous accents, in a rich, seamless frame, with firming tannins. 

2017 Duckhorn Rector Creek Vineyard ($100) This vineyard along Napa’s Silverado Trail, shows blueberry, baking spice, and a vanilla core. Structured but elegant. Should age well.

2016 Northstar Columbia Valley ($41) Washington state’s Merlot specialist; plump black cherry, cocoa notes, baking spice, herbs; presents as elegant and refined. 

2017 Duckhorn Atlas Peak ($78) High-elevation vineyards yield concentrated dark fruits, with vanilla, spice and rich, silky tannins. 

2016 St. Supéry Napa Valley Estate Vineyard ($50) Opens with a sense of sweet blueberry and blackberry; cocoa, oak and spice accent a lush but firm texture.

2017 Duckhorn Carneros ($78) With fruit from the famousnHyde and Hudson vineyards, this shows bright cherry and raspberry, wrapped in vanilla, with a hint of spice.

2017 Ehlers Napa Valley Estate ($55) Dark berries, lightly spicy and minty, shows admirable depth and richness, with fine-grained tannins. 

2017 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($56) Fresh dark cherry and plum, touch of toasty oak and spice, sense of firmness but supple and elegant.  

2017 Rutherford Hill Atlas Peak ($60) From a California Merlot pioneer; deep cherry, pretty vanilla, and herbal notes open lean but fill out and close as a deeply fruity wine.

2018 Barnett Vineyards Spring Mountain ($70) Juicy cherry and blueberry, followed by woody, earthy notes; fresh but soft, stewed fruit and anise flavors close. 

Finally, four solid values for every day:

• The Napa Valley fruit of 2017 Markham ($29) is juicy and supple, with a sense of concentration. 
• Alexander Valley fruit gives the 2018 Chelsea Goldschmidt “Guidestone Rise” ($22) juicy blue and black fruit, hints of creamy and minty oak, and accessible, refreshing texture. 
• Sonoma County grapes supply the flavorful red fruit of the softly fresh 2018 Decoy ($25). 
• The bright red berries of the lush 2018 Selby ($24) are accented with savory notes. 

Originally published in the Colorado Spring Gazette on November 18, 2020.

While cabernet sauvignon, merlot and pinot noir dominate red wine sales in the U.S. and most other markets, what are referred to as Rhône varieties – especially grenache, syrah and mourvèdre – can produce quality that rivals and often surpasses the big three. 

Grenache is the preferred variety in Southern Rhône, as it adapts well to the range of soils and growing conditions in the area and is the prime grape in the fine blends of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is chock full of currant and red fruit flavors and contributes body and finesse.

Syrah is the star of Northern Rhône, producing the great wines of Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie. It is characterized by complex notes of dark fruits, herbs and spice. Low in acidity and high in tannins, it acts as a balancing force for the blend.

Mourvèdre makes a fine companion to grenache and syrah in the blended wines of the region. It usually contributes smaller percentages, except for the wines of Bandol. It provides deep color, structure and an array of flavors including blueberry, blackberries and herbs, black pepper and smoke.

These wines are often quite expensive. So, I suggest you try “Côtes du Rhône” for an affordable introduction. The red blends must be comprised of a minimum of 30% grenache, and grenache, syrah and mourvèdre are required to make up at least 70% of the blend. This allows winemakers to express their diverse terroir while showcasing their expertise and creating a consistent style. 

2017 J.L. Chave Sélection “Mon Coeur” ($22). Wine growers in the northern Rhône since 1481, Chave Hermitage, both rouge (syrah) and blanc (marsanne), are considered by many to be the epitome of such wines. Jean-Louis Chave Selections, the négociant line that sources grapes from various areas in the northern Rhône, represents a more accessible way for the consumer to experience the wines of the Chave family. “Mon Coeur” is a blend of half estate and half purchased organically grown grapes, with 60 percent grenache. As with all things Chave, quality – cherry compote, savory notes, touches of anise and earth – is eminent even at the entry level.

2017 Ferraton “Samorëns” ($16). A producer-négociant founded in 1946 that has pioneered estate-bottled wines in the Rhône; with 85 percent grenache, this blend shows nice red fruits, with hints of leather, earth cinnamon, and tea notes, and silky tannins. 

2016 Domaine St. Gayan ($16) based in the Southern Rhone appellation of Gigondas and notable for wines from very old vines (some up to 100 years in age); with 75 percent grenache it reveals a depth, richness and complexity not often found at this level.

2017 Jean-Luc Colombo Les Abeilles ($14). From one of the premier producers in the northern appellation of Cornas, this is open and round in mouthfeel with cherry and plum preserves, vanilla and anise. 

2016 Celliers des Dauphins Reserve ($15). Essentially a grower’s cooperative created in 1967 as the Union of Côtes du Rhône winegrowers bringing together 2,300 winemaking families in the southern Rhône Valley; with 60 percent grenache, it reveals bright berries, dark forest and pepper.

And I had a bit of a ringer in my Côtes du Rhône tasting, a 2017 Ferraton “La Matinière” Crozes-Hermitage ($26). A 100 percent syrah wine from the northern Rhône, this wine is a fine value and can be thought of as a more approachable (in terms of early drinking and price) alternative to the more complex and expensive Hermitage. Its crisp, generous dark fruits are offset with earthy accents, including pepper, smoke, leather, and mineral delivered in a velvety mouthfeel. 

The California Rhône style wines in my tasting, though all in a significantly higher price range, provide a useful comparison. In general, they can be characterized as displaying deeper, riper fruit, while staying true to varietal character.

2015 Ramey Syrah Rodgers Creek Vineyard ($65). Best known for great Chardonnays, Ramey also produces fine red wines, including this impressive single vineyard Syrah from a vineyard in the sought after Petaluma Gap area of Sonoma Coast. Made with 8 percent viognier following a common practice in Hermitage, it deftly balances ripe, fresh and generous berries and dark plum with savory elements of chocolate, pepper, licorice and earth. It’s focused but has soft tannins and a rich texture.  

2016 Mi Sueno Syrah Napa Valley ($55). From a husband and wife team with a resume that includes making wine for and supplying grapes to some of California’s most prestigious wineries; expect a full, rich, wine of intense black fruits, with peppery, meaty accents and firm tannins. 

Bootleg, a brand that emphasizes crafting wines without constraint from a specific varietal, appellation, or winemaking tradition, produces two red wine blends: “Red Blend”, which combines Napa Valley sources, and “Prequel”, which focuses on Sonoma County fruit. The varieties in each blend change from year to year but both contain significant amounts of syrah and petite sirah. These are exuberant, bold wines for those who prefer an opulent style. 

The 2016 Red Blend ($38) adds merlot to the blend and deftly balances structure, and finesse, with bright red fruit, oaky and earthy notes, with a fresh, full texture. The 2016 Prequel ($35) – 85 percent syrah and 15 percent petite sirah – is a luscious wine of refreshing dark berries, complimented with black pepper, woodsy and toasty oak, drinking with velvety tannins. 

For some reason, it seems California Sauvignon Blanc has often been an afterthought with consumers. Not only does it consistently play second fiddle in popularity to Chardonnay, it seems there is always a new fave that steals consumer’s attention – Pinot Grigio, even New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc – even if only for a limited time. 

But that may be changing. Growers and winemakers are taking the grape more seriously and quality has improved even as more offerings are available. And people who watch these kinds of things say consumer interest is ticking up. This is good news as there arguably is more good California Sauvignon Blanc on the market than ever.

The grape has a noble heritage as a parent (with cabernet franc) of cabernet sauvignon. It is responsible for the Loire Valley wines of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé and, with semillon, the white Bordeaux of Graves and Sauternes. The grape also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile. 

Its flavor profile comes in several styles, though it’s usually assertively aromatic, with refreshing acidity. Generally, expect brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) but also other citrus, especially grapefruit, and a distinctive (sometimes spicy) herbaceousness. Some also are evocative of fresh cut hay or grass. Wines made from riper fruit often display melon, nectarine or peach, or even tropical fruits. 

While growers are paying more attention to where and how the grape is planted, winemakers are employing creative approaches in the cellar. Usually most of a wine is fermented and aged in stainless steel to emphasize fresh, varietal characteristics but occasionally some of the wine is conditioned with time in other containers, like oak. 

I found a number of “good values” around $20 and under. These tend to be lighter with the focus on varietal fruit but all display the grape’s trademark refreshing character. Think of them as everyday go-tos. 

• 2019 Priest Ranch Napa Valley ($22) native yeasts, stainless steel drums; zesty, intense, citrusy 

• 2019 Bonterra California ($14) made with organic grapes; vibrant citrus and stone fruit, subtle hint of grass 

• 2019 Rodney Strong Charlotte’s Home Sonoma County ($17) apple and tropical fruit, lean and spicy  

• 2019 Imagery California ($20) a value driven brand from the Benziger family; tropical and grapefruit, herbal 

As consumer friendly as these wines are, I found more complexity and flavor interest as prices escalated. 

• 2019 Ehler’s Estate St. Helena ($32) certified organic vineyard, aged sur lie (lees stirring) in stainless drums; succulent, citrus, full-bodied, savory, crisp 

• 2018 Robert Mondavi “Fumé” Napa Valley ($24) the wine that first drew consumer attention to sauvignon blanc about 55 years ago; barrel fermented and aged sur lie with 13 percent Semillon; succulent lemon-lime, fresh, juicy, herbal notes 

• 2018 The Paring Santa Ynez Valley ($25) a project of the owners of Jonata and The Hilt wines (same as the owners of the Denver Nuggets and Colorado Avalanche); aged in 1/3 new French oak, 1/3 neutral French, 1/3 stainless steel; vibrant, tropical fruit, fruity, anise 

• 2019 Clockwise Russian River Valley ($30) from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist MacRostie and vineyards farmed by the respected Dutton family; sauvignon musqué clone; mix of oak and stainless; tangy citrus and stone fruits, plush 

• 2019 Acumen Mountainside ($30) winery focused on Napa Valley hillside vineyards makes this wine from Dry Creek Valley hillside vineyards; 67 percent in neutral oak, 33 percent in stainless steel; piercing citrus, herbs and fresh hay, spicy

• 2019 Ram’s Gate Carneros Estate ($38) 10 percent new French oak, 70 percent neutral barrels, 20 percent stainless steel; juicy tropical fruit, hint of pepper 

In recent years, an elite of wines of exceptional character has emerged to the point where well-known wine author Karen MacNeill has coined the term “Super Sauvignons”. These wines may benefit from the use of several types of fermenting and aging vessels –concrete tanks, new and used oak, stainless steel barrels, and amphorae – for fermentation, along with practices such as lees stirring to build complexity and texture. 

The wines below share a complex profile of bright, ripe fruit, mineral savory notes, and sophisticated, rich textures. And they are cellar worthy. Notably, each winery below is from the Napa Valley. 

• 2019 Spottswoode ($42) combines 2/3 Napa fruit and 1/3 Sonoma fruit, elevated with a combination of French oak, small stainless steel barrels, a clay amphora, and one ceramic and two concrete tanks; balances textural vibrancy and richness, with structure and complexity 

• 2018 Acumen PEAK Atlas Peak Estate ($75) from high altitude Attelas Vineyard, lees stirring; intense citrus and stone fruit, minerals and spicy herbs, oaky richness, supple yet stimulating 

• 2019 Turnbull “Josephine” Oakville ($50) aged in French oak barrels, concrete and amphorae; tropical fruit, lush textyre, stony notes, perky structure

• 2018 Cuvaison Méthode Béton Carneros Estate Grown ($40) the “method” is aging on the lees in concrete eggs (bétons); crisp, persistent, intense, juicy lemon/lime, graceful, yet structured, grassy 

NOTE: Wines are listed in order of preference within each category but all are recommended. 

In this column I introduce you to a few of the wines from two regions less known to American consumers. Both produce (mostly dry) Riesling wines that can equal the quality from Germany. Both also produce remarkable wine wines from other, even lessen known white varieties.

Bordering Switzerland and Germany, Alsace is known primarily for its fresh, aromatic white wines. Riesling, gewurztraminer, and pinot gris comprise over half of all production. They display finesse with a solid structure in a range of styles: dry, off-dry and occasionally dessert. 

Alsatian Rieslings are distinguished with attractive, pure aromas, fresh green apple and citrus fruit, steely or mineral notes. Typically, the wines carry more weight than their German cousins but the aromatics and acidity are just as bracing. 

Get an introduction with the 2016 Mittnacht “Les Fossiles” ($20) – from a family-run estate founded in 1958 and an early pioneer of the biodynamic winemaking movement – for its distinctive paraffin aroma and tangy tangerine fruit; and the fresh, easy drinking, stony edged 2016 Paul Blanck ($16), a producer that traces its history to the 17th century and also focuses on sustainability.

I have to say, though, I am especially attracted to Alsatian Gewürztraminer. While the variety (which translates to “spicy traminer”) originated in the foothills of the Italian Alps near the city of Tramin in the Alto Adige, the most and most prized Gewürztraminer is produced in Alsace. Quite special and unique, it is a great value and pairs nicely with foods such as Thai, Indian, Middle Eastern North African, Asian and Latin American.

I love the unique heady aromas, flavors and textures. The most prominent aroma is lychee, while others have noted tropical, honeydew and grapefruit, rose, ginger, honey, and especially a piquancy often associated with spices like cinnamon. In the mouth it presents with a creamy, unctuous texture along with more body than the typical white wine, even Chardonnay or Viognier. Even though mostly dry, there usually is a sense of mild sweetness but it will be balanced with good acidity.

Get acquainted with the precise, medium-sweet intensity and subtle spiciness of the 2015 Agathe Bursin “Dirstelberg” ($19), a rich, well-structured wine from a winemaker who was born into a family of vintners and established her own small winery in 2000. Or try the exceptional, medium bodied, off-dry, wonderfully rich 2015 Albert Boxler ($32). The Boxler family has been involved in wine since 1673 and have bottled estate wines since 1946. All the vineyards are farmed organically. 

Austrian wines arguably are even less familiar to American consumers, though wine has been made there for two millennia. But that is starting to change. Conveniently, most of the best wines come from regions that straddle the Danube River, particularly Lower Austria (Niederösterreich).  With dramatic improvements over the last few decades, the wines are distinguished for zesty, fruity, elegant qualities. 

Riesling has been grown in Austria at least since the 1700s but only recently has begun to establish a reputation with today’s consumers for quality wines. Almost always dry, they are notable as taut and exuberant, with fresh, fruity citrus, peach and apricot accented with stony traces. 

The 2017 Cobenzl “Ried Preussen” 1ÖTW ($24), from a premier single vineyard in Nussberg just outside of Vienna and from a winery owned by the city of Vienna, is precise, refreshing and juicy. The 2017 Schauer Kitzeck-Sausal ($30), from a vineyard near Austria’s southern mountains, is aromatic, brilliant, and lively with an herbal tinge. Kitzeck is the central settlement in the Sausal mountain range in Southern Styria (Südsteiermark) on Austria’s southern border and one of the highest altitude winegrowing areas in central Europe. 

But Austria’s signature and most widely planted grape is grüner veltliner. It produces an assertive, steely, rich, dry white with a unique piquant aroma and flavor, usually associated with lime (though other citrus and stone fruits can make an appearance), white pepper, and herbs.  

There were four good examples in my tasting:

• 2018 Proidl “Freiheit” ($19). Making wine in Senftenberg in the Kremstal since 1738, Freiheit means freedom and signals this wine comes from some of the first privately owned vineyard land in the region not controlled by the Church or a feudal estate. It offers a touch of white pepper and pleasant juiciness, while remaining light on its feet. 

• 2018 Pollerhof “Phelling” ($24). From a single vineyard near Roschitz in the Weinviertel in the north-east corner of the country about five miles from the Czech border; it is elegant, fresh, fruity and focused, with a touch of minerality and a slight spritz. 

• 2017 Fritsch “Ried Mordthal” 1ÖTW ($29). Located in the community of Oberstockstall-Kirchberg in the Lower Austrian wine growing region of Wagram, Fritsch is a practitioner of biodynamic viticulture. This first class single vineyard wine shows intense, slightly sweet fruit, with stony, herbal notes fruity; it is invigorating yet luscious. 

• 2017 Tegernseerhof “Bergdistel” Smaragd ($33). Sourced from several vineyards around the winery’s base in Dürnstein in the Wachau (only an hour from Vienna), Smaragd indicates the highest classification of ripeness of the grapes typically yielding weightier more complex and richly textured wines. This one displays more tropical fruit with white pepper and herbal touches in an expansive yet nicely defined palate of juicy acidity. 

Since most of us still can’t travel to any of the destinations we would like. I’ve decided to craft a world tour wine values as a temporary replacement.  

Let’s start our tour with stops in South America’s two best known wine countries – a red wine from Argentina and a white wine from Chile.

Argentina’s Mendoza is its signature wine region. The dramatic high-altitude landscape at the foot of the Andes Mountains births many world class Malbecs and even more fine everyday Malbecs and some that combine both qualities into one bottle. Imagine this backdrop as you enjoy the half malbec with syrah and cabernet sauvignon 2018 Domaine Bousquet “Gaia” Red Blend ($20). A pioneer in Tupungato, the highest district in the Uco Valley sub-region of Mendoza, Bousquet also is notable for its commitment to organic production.  

Next, we pass over the Andes to Chile whose wine growing regions are surrounded by the Andes to the east, the Pacific Ocean to the west, the Atacama Desert to the north and ancient glaciers to the south. Visualize this as you sip the 2017 Cono Sur “Bicicleta” Viognier Reserva ($12), a surprisingly tasty wine from an unexpected grape grown in unexpected soil. 

Then, we fly over the Pacific Ocean to New Zealand and on to South Africa.

Geographically, New Zealand’s wine regions, like the country, are divided between the functionally named North Island and South Island. Our tour takes us to the South Island. Here, Sauvignon Blanc, especially from the Marlborough district at the north end of the island, has become New Zealand’s most popular wine. The distinctive heady profile of wines from here is dominated by things green – namely gooseberry, lime, herbs, even fresh grass – and sometimes a hint of pepper. Picture yourself cruising the Marlborough Sounds viewing winding coastline while quaffing the 2018 Spy Valley ($20) makes quite an impression with bracing acidity and bright fruit flavors lemongrass, intense or the 2019 White Cliff Winemakers Selection ($16) decent intensity and length.

Pinot Noir, especially from the Central Otago district at the south end of the South Island, has emerged as New Zealand’s signature red wine. Conjure the district’s mountains near Queenstown or the ocean from Dunedin as you savor the 2018 Loveblock Pinot Noir ($30). It’s bright red fruit, baking spice accents and good concentration, is a good example of why this area has become a benchmark. Industry veterans Kim and Erica Crawford established this artisan winery following the sale of their Kim Crawford brand. 

Now, it is on to South Africa where the wine industry is poised to take its place on the world stage. 

Most South African wine is produced in the Western Cape region, with Cape Town, South Africa’s oldest settlement as its main city. Bordered by the Atlantic and Indian oceans, the region features incredible views of water to the south and mountains to the north. First up is the organic 2019 Aslina Sauvignon Blanc ($19). Made by owner Ntsiki Biyela, the first black woman winemaker in South Africa, this is a wine – herbal, succulent, vibrant – that can rival the best from New Zealand. 

Right now, though, Chenin Blanc arguably is the country’s most successful white wine. South Africa has more plantings of Chenin Blanc than any other wine-producing region (including its home in France’s Loire Valley) – in fact, more than the rest of the world combined! It is my choice for most the distinctive South African white wine. From the Paarl district north of Cape Town, conjure the nearby slopes of the Simonsberg Mountains as you relish the fresh citrus, nectarine and stone fruit of the 2019 Bosman “Generation 8” ($25) or the melon and citrus of the 2019 Backsberg Estate ($14). 

Heading north, we journey to the Iberian Peninsula where we will enjoy wines from Portugal and Spain.

For our tour of Portugal we will enjoy wines from Symington Family Estates, one of the most prestigious wine companies in the country. Their home base is in the striking Douro River Valley, home to the famous Port wines. Evoke the winding river lined with steep terraced vineyards as you imbibe the 2015 Dow’s Late Bottled Vintage Port ($24). Think of it as Vintage Port in style, but not in price. Ready to drink upon release, it can give you a taste of Vintage Port character at a much more affordable price. I especially enjoyed its heady aromas and flavors of sweet berries, cassis, and oak, and a touch of licorice in a full-bodied, lush wine balanced with modest tannins. 

But Portugal has long been a premier source of fine table wine values. For instance, the 2017 Vale do Bomfim ($13) is a “go to” value wine for me. Made with fruit – touriga nacional and touriga franca – from vineyards that supply Dow’s Ports, it suggests dark plum followed by peppery and stony notes and drinks rather firm and full. Under the Prats + Symington label, the 2017 Post Scriptum de Chryseia ($27), also mostly touriga nacional and touriga franca, is more expensive but a lot more wine. It reveals structured but animated fruit matched with fine tannins. It is an earlier drinking version of the flagship Chryseia wine. 

The Alentejo in southern Portugal also is gaining popularity for improved quality and value and for the focus on local grape varieties. And the Symington’s new Quinta Fonte Souto estate in the Portalegre sub-region east of Lisbon has made a big splash with its inaugural releases. Since ‘souto’ refers to the large forested area including a chestnut grove on the property, consider that while you enjoy the aromatic, fruity, creamy yet crisp 2018 “Branco” ($25) – 75 percent arinto/25 percent Verdelho – and the 2017 “Tinto” ($25), mostly alicante bouschet and trincadeira, for its concentrated currants with a lush texture and savory notes.

Nearby Spain has one of the world’s most expansive wine cultures with notable vineyard areas and distinctive native grapes reflecting enormous wine diversity in every region of the country. Arguably the most famous region is Rioja located in the Ebro River Valley in north central Spain. In view of the Sierra de Cantabria Mountains, its vineyards are blanketed with tempranillo vines, Spain’s most planted red grape. The variety typically exhibits cherry fruit and savory notes of cherry, tobacco and spice. Rioja is a good value in all price categories. But the 2016 Vina Real “Crianza” ($17), part of the CVNE stable, is an even more fabulous value for its expressive fruit and fine tannins. Even less expensive, the 2018 Kirkland Reserva ($10) is supple, earthy and fresh. 

And for a nice comparison, the next best-known region is the Ribera del Duero just southwest of Rioja. Here, tempranillo is known as tinto fino or tinta del país and produces several of Spain’s greatest, most expensive wines. The 2017 Bela Crianza ($19) is a good introduction to the area. It has a nice balance of fruit and oak, fresh cherry and plum, with notes of licorice, smoke and dark chocolate, light tannins and lively acidity support the supple texture. 

Spain’s most respected white wine comes from the region of Rías Baixas in Galicia in northwestern Spain, known as “Green Spain”. The reason? Wines from albariño. If you like Sauvignon Blanc but not the herbaceousness so much, you’ll love the bracing citrus and savory qualities of albariño. Imagine the breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean as you savor the bracing, persistent 2019 Bodegas Muriel “Pazo Cilleiro” ($20). 

We finish our tour in France enjoying value “Flower Label” wines from Burgundy by famous négociant Georges Duboeuf. France’s Burgundy region (located in the valleys and slopes west of the Saône River) is famous for red wines made from pinot noir and white wines made from chardonnay.

Its Mâconnais district takes its name from the town of Mâcon and is best known as a source of good value white wines usually labeled Mâcon-Villages. The unoaked 2018 ($23) offers a typical Mâcon character of taut citrus, peach and honeysuckle. The wines from Pouilly-Fuissé traditionally have been popular in the U.S., even though a bit more expensive. The 2018 ($40) is fuller with deeper citrus, apple, and tropical fruit. 

Turn to Beaujolais, located just north of the city of Lyon, for red wine values. Though its main grape is gamay, not pinot noir. Famous for its fresh, fruity, amiable, it is generally best enjoyed slightly chilled. Made using a special whole bunch fermentation process (known as carbonic maceration), it is known for a flavor profile of mostly bright red fruits, floral, herbal and mineral notes, and lively acidity. There are generic Beaujolais wines that can be tasty and particularly affordable and there are Beaujolais-Villages wines like the 2018 ($14), which gives fruity, generous, medium-bodied wines. And then there are top-level wines from specific vineyards near 10 specially designated villages and that fall somewhere in between both in quality and price. The 2018 Morgon ($22) is more concentrated and rich, with fresh, silky tannins. 

Sparkling wine is so popular some version of it is made in almost every country that produces wine. Sadly, most of it is drunk only during holidays or special occasions. Whether it’s called Champagne, Cremant, Sekt, Prosecco, Cava, Spumante, or something else, sparkling wine is the prime choice for celebrations of all types. 

That certainly is understandable. Just as bubbles rise, sparkling wines seem by their very nature to elevate a wine and the wine drinking experience.

My mission here is to convince you to drink sparkling wine throughout the year. Luckily, there are many reasonably priced sparklers to make that an easy choice. And what better time than summer (or fall, winter or spring). That they are best chilled; are versatile with food – available as red, white or pink – and have palate cleansing bubbles, all give them an advantage over most other wines.

NOTE: All wines in this column are nonvintage unless otherwise identified.

While Champagne is the benchmark for sparkling wine, there are good sparklers elsewhere in France. Usually labeled Crémant, these also are made using the “Methode Champenoise” or “Methode Traditionnelle” (meaning the bubbles are created using the method where a second fermentation occurs in the bottle thus trapping the resultant carbonation). Notably, they an affordable alternative. 

I particularly like Crémant d’Alsace. Alsace is better known for amazing Rieslings and Gewürztraminers but its Crémant is produced from the classic Champagne varieties – pinot noir and chardonnay – though pinot blanc, pinot gris and riesling may make it into some blends. A good example is the Lucien Albrecht, Brut Rosé ($23). From a winery that dates to 1698 and was a pioneer in the establishment of the first Alsace Crémants about fifty years ago, this 100 percent pinot noir offers crisp strawberry fruit with finesse and a creamy palate.

One I don’t see very often but enjoyed in my tasting is Crémant de Loire. Gratien & Meyer, a producer of fine sparklers in Saumur for over 150 years has combined Champagne grapes (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) with Loire grapes (Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc for a fine Brut Rosé ($18). 

Italians take their bubbly every bit as seriously as do the French and have been making it nearly as long. Prosecco, the fresh, foamy, fruity frizzante from northeastern Veneto has vaulted in popularity in recent years. Made from the native glera grape in the hills north of Venice, Prosecco (the name of the production zone) unlike the other sparklers in this report is produced using the Charmat Method. In this case, the bubbles are produced by inducing the second fermentation in pressurized stainless steel tanks, instead of the bottle. This preserves glera’s fresh aromas and clean, delicate fruit (pear, citrus, apple and peach) at lower alcohol than most bubbly. 

Founded in 1887, Mionetto today is one of the widest distributed Prosecco brands. Its Prestige Brut ($14) offers a lively, delicate palate. Pasqua, maker of popular value wines for 95 years, name checks Veneto’s star-crossed lovers with an elegant, “Romeo & Juliet” Brut ($16). 

Lambrusco from Emilia-Romagna is enjoying a reintroduction to American consumers as artisan bubbly – exuberantly fruity berries and mostly dry, not the sickly sweet, mass-produced froth of the past. One of the best is Cleto Chiarli, which has been making Lambrusco near Modena in Emilia Romagna since 1860. Chiarli makes only Lambrusco (with the Charmat Method) and uses only estate grapes. I suspect these still may be an acquired taste for some but I think they are delicious, versatile, and flavorful. 

• 2019 Vigneto Cialdini ($17) effusive, luscious, firm, savory 
• 2019 Premium Vecchia Modena ($16) floral, fresh, lively, deeply fruitful
• 2019 Centenario Amabile ($13) succulent, delightfully semi sweet, crisp finish
• Nonvintage Brut di Noir Rosé ($16) tart, juicy, easy drinking 

Cava is Spain’s contribution that has long been a go-to for wallet-friendly fizz. It is typically produced by the traditional method with the indigenous grapes macabeo, xarel-lo, and parellada in the Penedès not far from Barcelona.

Having made wine since 1861, Freixenet produced its first sparkling sparkling wine in 1914 and has grown to be the world’s largest producer of Champagne Method wines. Two of its most popular wines ($15) are the delicate, fresh Cordon Negro Brut and berried, slightly sweet Brut Rosé. 

Codorníu, has been making Cava since 1872 when the family introduced the traditional method to Spain. Its Clasico Brut, made using native grapes, at ($11) is its most popular and accessible wine. It also produces an interesting line using the traditional Champagne grapes. The Anna de Codorníu line is a tribute to the last person in the family that bore the surname Codorníu. The NV Brut Rosé ($15), 70 percent pinot noir and 30 percent chardonnay, focuses on refreshing, lightly sweet cherry and strawberry but also a hint of green apple. 

Segura Viudas is situated on an estate that dates to the 11th century, which may be one reason the owners have such an appreciation on sustainability. Its crown jewel, the full, elegant Reserva Heredad ($30), is blended from just macabeo and parellada and is a fine example of what extra attention like aging on the lees can accomplish. 

California sparkling wine consumption also has grown significantly in recent years, in fact the fastest of all categories in the past year. California makes many truly fine sparkling wines. One of the best comes from the Ferrer family, owner of Spain’s Freixenet, who has been producing highly regarded sparkling wines under the Gloria Ferrer label since 1986 from estate vineyards in Carneros. The Blanc de Noirs ($22) was represented in my tasting. At 92 percent pinot noir and 8 percent chardonnay it showed vibrant cherry and apple, with a creamy palate. Also look for the Sonoma Brut ($22), Blanc de Blancs ($22) and Brut Rosé ($27). 

Roederer Estate, which was founded in Mendocino County in 1981 by the Champagne Louis Roederer family, has long been a favorite of mine. These wines are sourced from organically farmed estate vineyards in the Anderson Valley. Importantly, they add oak-aged reserve wines to each year’s cuvée, a practice common in Champagne, to achieve a characteristic richness and complexity. The Brut ($24) is 60 percent chardonnay and 40 percent pinot noir. 

Also notable in my tasting, the inaugural sparkling wine of a young Sonoma County winery, the 2018 Sosie “Bare Necessity” Sparkling Rosé ($30) benefits from native fermentation and no additives.

Farther north in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Argyle has produced sparkling wine since its founding in 1981. Its 2016 Brut ($28), its foundational wine, is comprised of the traditional Champagne grapes while aging three years on the lees in 30 percent neutral oak. This  adds up to richness with a juicy lemon custard character.

After all this, though, Champagne still is the world’s most prestigious sparkling wine and is considered the standard for other bubbly. Typically blends of pinot noir and chardonnay with dollops of pinot meunier, the best Champagnes expertly balance richness and delicacy. 

A nonvintage Brut is the most widely enjoyed style, partly because it is the most affordable. It also represents the signature style of a Champagne house, as it is blended to achieve a yearly consistency. A good example is the Alfred Gratien Classic Brut ($50). This winery has been making bubbly since 1864 and is one of the last remaining Champagne houses carrying out the entire vinification process using wood. This bottling (mostly chardonnay with pinot noir and pinot meunier) does not undergo malolactic fermentation but is aged five years on the lees and fermented and matured in barriques, giving it a rich texture, with crisp, apple and citrus.

A good nonvintage Rosé also is a special experience. Billecart-Salmon, founded in 1818, has been making Champagne Rosé since the 1840s. Its Brut Rosé ($90), vinified in stainless steel and aged on lees three years, offers crisp red fruits and fresh bread with a rich, slightly spicy palate. 

Finally, sometimes you want something special and Vintage Champagne fits the bill. Such it is with the 2008 Laurent-Perrier Brut Millésimé ($80). Laurent-Perrier has chosen to make vintages very rarely, only selecting the very best years. This one’s luxurious fruit is a perfect example why. Half chardonnay and half pinot noir, it is aged seven years on the lees, yielding enticing ripe citrus and apple, with toasty, creamy, and spicy notes that drink firmly yet elegantly.

As I have noted here, in recent years, Rosé has become quite popular with the American consumer after decades of suspicion. Certainly, there was and continues to be an attraction to sweet blush wines like “White Zinfandel”. 

These days, though, it is the dry (or mostly dry) wines that have enjoyed attention. It seems like every winery in most every wine-producing region produces a pink wine in their portfolio. Luckily, there is more than enough quality among these crimson colored wines to satisfy even serious wine drinkers. 

Europeans have known for a long time the joy of drinking a good dry pink wine. The most common term is Rosé (French) but you may also see Rosato (Italian) and Rosado (Spanish). These days you are more likely to see Rosé.

This popularity is focused on dry wines modeled after European styles, not the sweet “blush” wines that have been popular for years. A variety of red grapes are used and the best wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. They exhibit bright, fresh fruit ranging from strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon. Expect a flavor profile similar to their red siblings, while they drink more like white wines.  

Enjoy these wines as an apéritif or with a full range of light foods. Compare European and American counterparts. Buy a couple of each and compare. 

Because of their vibrant freshness and lively fruit, pink wines are almost always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available. Note, all wines here are 2019 vintage, unless otherwise stated.

There are essentially three ways to make a pink wine. The most common method is to crush red grapes and leave the juice in contact with the grape skins (the source of a wine’s color) only briefly. The second technique is a process called “saignée” in which a certain amount of juice is “bled off” shortly after red grapes are crushed. The third approach involves blending white and red wines to the desired effect.

Among Rosé devotees, France is the prime source. There is a dizzying array of French Rosés from all over the country (including Alsace, Loire, Champagne and Bordeaux) but most notably the south – places like Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, Bandol, Rhône Valley, and Tavel. 

Provence in particular, the area along the Côte d’Azur, has a long history with Rosé as a prominent drink. And the Côtes de Provence appellation, where the wines are mostly grenache (often with cinsault and syrah), is especially popular. Coincidentally, my recommended wines are from wineries located a short distance from Saint-Tropez. Since you can’t travel there right now, imagine looking over the Mediterranean while sipping one of these delicate, refreshing wines.

From Château Minuty, an 18^th century estate using sustainable methods, there is the fragrant and floral, lightly spicy and tart but smooth “M de Minuty” ($23) and the estate grown “Prestige” ($30) offering a suggestion of creaminess. Domaine Cala, owned by Los Angeles celebrity Chef Joachim Splichal, has produced the savory, estate grown “Classic” ($18). A historic property, Commanderie de Peyrassol offers the fresh, crisp, juicy Cuvée de la Commanderie ($20). 

The nearby Côtes du Rhône is a fine source of good values. The Cellier des Dauphins Reserve ($11) shows a surprising textural component at this price from aging a short time on the lees. And Domaine La Manarine ($14) from its perch near Avignon and Château Mourgues du Grès “Fleur d’ Eglantine” ($14) from the Costières de Nîmes subregion both feature organic viticulture. 

Rhône/Provençal style wines also are popular in among many California wineries. Try another organic from Mendocino County’s Bonterra ($16) for its. I also found two good value wines from Paso Robles. Smashberry ($13) from Miller Family Vineyards, a large vineyard owner in Paso Robles, and Pink Pedals ($15) an all grenache wine from Chronic Cellars owned by two brothers whose family owns the highly regarded Peachy Canyon winery.  

While Rosé is produced in Burgundy, particularly from the village of Marsannay it is a minor production. But many California wineries have latched on to pinot noir as the grape of choice for Rosé. This is likely because the grape typically produces lighter colored wines anyway and tends to reveal its primary aromas and flavors at earlier ripeness than, say, cabernet sauvignon. 

And these were some of the favorites of my tasting, especially the Rodney Strong Russian River Valley ($25), which shows juicy fruit, good body and flavor interest worthy of serious food. The MacRostie Russian River Valley ($28) with fruit from a block of Thale’s Vineyard, the Jackson Estate Panorama Vineyard ($30) with fruit from a vineyard in Arroyo Seco, and Pisoni Vineyard’s “Lucy” ($19) from the Santa Lucia Highlands were not far behind in enjoyment. 

Similarly, Bordeaux produces a small amount of Rosé. But Napa’s Ehlers Estate Sylviane ($32), made with cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, turned out to be my favorite of the tasting. New winemaker Laura Díaz Muñoz has a winner with this one for its intense flavor, minerality creamy texture. 

From Italy’s Veneto region, the Pasqua “11 Minutes” ($20) reflects vineyards that line the shores of Lake Garda. This wine is half the native corvina and surprisingly one-fourth the white trebbiano. 11 minutes refers to the length of time the winemaker allows for contact between juice and skins. From California, the 2018 Oak Ridge OZV Primitivo ($15) is intriguing to this longtime Zinfandel afficionado, as primitivo (originating from Apulia) is zinfandel’s genetic sibling. 

In Spain, tempranillo is the major red grape and the Cune Rosado ($14) stands out for its darker color, a result of longer skin contact yielding a more full-flavored wine. For a California version, “Rose Against the Machine” ($24), by Napa Valley’s Anarchist Winery uses Clarksburg fruit to produce a wine with razor sharp acidity. 

Finally, for those of you who still prefer sweet, quaffable wines, Ron’s Chillable Pink ($13) from River Road Vineyards in Sonoma fits the bill with soft fine/foamy bubbles. And only 7.1% alcohol. 

Readers of this column, please tell me why you aren’t drinking more (or any) Riesling. Wine writers (including myself), sommeliers, and most other wine professionals have touted the virtues of this wine for decades. But sales data show Riesling is still at best an afterthought for wine consumers. 

Still, the wines are special, with the ability to combine luscious fruit with bracing acidity into a restorative elixir. Typically, they are light but full flavored and low (sometimes quite low) in alcohol. And top German Rieslings can be some of the longest lived wines anywhere. So, I am determined to persist in my advocacy. And yet I can think of some reasons why consumers are skeptical. 

Part of the problem is the misconception Riesling is always sweet. “It’s too sweet”, I often hear. For many years, sweet wines were big sellers in this country and there was plenty of simple, cheap Riesling. Now, many drinkers think all sweet wines are inferior quality to dry wines. That’s never been true and I’ll try again to convince you of that.

“What, you mean it can be dry, too?” With that one, I think many American consumers just have no idea what to expect. Ironically, dry (or at least off-dry) is the most common style of Riesling around the world. 

And when it comes to German Riesling, the subject of this column, there are additional challenges. And it begins with the labels. There is a lot of valuable but hard to decipher information. And it’s not always easy to discern which rieslings are dry and which have some degree of sweetness (though some have taken to including a scale on the back label showing where the wine lands from dry to sweet).

Let me give you some tips to increase the probability of picking a quality wine – designated on the label as Qualiätswein. This indicates a wine from an officially sanctioned grape; grown in one of the 13 designated wine regions; and has passed the official quality wine test. 

Another helpful indicator of quality is the classification model of the VDP, a national association of nearly 200 wineries committed to the highest quality. While not part of the official German wine law and admitting excellent wine is available from nonmembers, its eagle logo on a bottle does signal the wine is from a seriously quality minded estate. At the tip of the quality pyramid is the “Grosse Lage” (Great Site – equivalent of Grand Cru in France) designation of a highest quality vineyard. 

If you are interested in the traditional “fruity” style (this style is my favorite) look for Qualitätswein mit Prädikat or Prädikatswein on the label. This indicates a wine made with grapes harvested at legally determined ripeness levels producing special characteristics, namely a naturally occurring balance of sweetness and acidity. There are six levels; three are reviewed here. Each of the wines below is from a Grosse Lage (great vineyard). 

Kabinett. Fine, light wines from ripe grapes usually slightly sweet with low alcohol 

• 2018 Schloss Johannisberg Rotlack ($42) ripe, rich, expressive, graceful
• 2018 Maximin Grünhäus Bruderberg ($38) balanced, elegant, lush, intense
• 2018 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten ($28) spicy, earthy, juicy, intense, zesty, 
• 2018 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer ($26) fine, delicate, mineral, lush, bracing
• 2018 Dr. Loosen “Blue Slate” ($22) fresh, juicy, stony 

Spätlese. Very ripe, elegant with ripe fruit from later harvest; more intense in flavor and concentration andusually sweeter

• 2018 Schloss Johannisberg Grunlack ($60) bright, delicate, spicy, lush
• 2018 Maximin Grünhäus Herrenberg ($50) dense, piercing, mineral, opulent, tropical 
• 2018 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer ($34) concentrated, mineral, sleek, firm, herbal
• 2018 Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppchen ($34) red slate, well built, minerals 

Auslese. Exceptional sweet wines from fully ripe, botrytis-affected (also known as noble rot) grapes; best as dessert; all are 375ml bottles 

• 2018 Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg ($164) exuberant, mineral, layered, amazing intensity, piquant, lush, generous, precise, elegant, rich, 
• 2017 Dr. Loosen, Ürziger Würzgarten ($64) tropical, rich, spicy, intense, mineral, elegant, herbal, succulent
• 2018 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr ($56) luscious but structured, luxurious

The super sweet, super rare and super expensive “Beerenauslese”, “Trockenbeerenauslese” and “Eiswein” categories are not covered in this column.

I love the Prädikat wines, but it is the dry wines (“trocken” on the label) that are creating the most attention these days. However, there is a challenge for consumers as they can taste austere upon release compared to the soft, broad white wines we typically taste in the U.S. So, often, they require the patience of at least a few years to integrate, something that we consumers usually don’t have the patience for. Although they are worth the weight, luckily, the wines in my tasting present as more friendly for early consumption, which is consistent with reports about the 2018 vintage. 

At the peak of quality are the Grosses Gewächs, wines from Grosse Lage sites (often in special bottles embossed with the “GG” grape logo). An important feature of GGs is that naturally high acidity provides the foundation for remarkable aging potential. The wines below are bracing, fruitful, and firm with dramatic impact at first tasting. Interestingly, they were slightly different but even better the next day I tasted them. Mainly because the acidity had resolved a bit and allowed intense fruit to emerge. 

• 2018 Schloss Johannisberg Silberlack ($90) powerful yet balanced, pure, concentrated, refined  
• 2018 Maximin Grünhäus Abtsberg ($70) delicate frame yet a rich, complex fresh fruit with herb and mineral profile, generous 
• 2017 Dr. Loosen, Wehlener Sonnenuhr “Alte Reben” ($54) from old vines, focused, refined and fresh 

The following trocken wines are more friendly and approachable, displaying vibrant structure balanced with elegance. 

• 2018 Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg ($55) from an Erste Lage (or premier vineyard), intense, refined, definitive, juicy, stony, elegant, spice, mineral, graceful, luscious
• 2018 Wittmann Niersteiner ($34) from an Erste Lage, vibrant, supple, intense, lithe, rich
• 2018 Wittmann Riesling Estate ($20) bright, elegant, stony, forceful 
• 2018 Robert Weil ($20) intense, tangy, herbal, mineral 
• 2018 Fritz Haag ($20) brisk, delicate, mineral
• 2018 Dr. Loosen Red Slate ($18) floral, spicy 
• Fritz Haag Braunberger Tradition ($20) feinherb, delicate, light, fresh
• Robert Weil Tradition ($20) moderately sweet, fruity, lively

At the risk of adding to the confusion, I also really enjoyed several off-dry or semi-dry or semi-sweet wines (depending on your taste sensitivities). See what I mean. Two were labeled “feinherb” (meaning off-dry) and two were labeled “Tradition” but such labeling is optional. You may also see the term halbtrocken, a regulated term meaning half dry. 

• Maximin Grünhaus Abstberg Superior ($64) beautifully medium-dry, juicy, mineral, herbal, firm
• 2018 Schloss Johannisberg Gelblack ($35) feinherb, delightfully accessible sweet/ tart with mineral tinge
• 2018 Fritz Haag Braunberger Tradition ($20) feinherb, delicate, fine mineral, fresh
• 2018 Robert Weil Tradition ($20) moderately sweet, delicate, fruity, lively

Ultimately, my message is these wines are so good the challenges shouldn’t keep you from enjoying them.