The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

Although cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, merlot, and zinfandel remain the most popular red wine grapes in California, if you’re like me, you crave something different now and then. Here are a few of the most interesting ones – mostly Rhône varieties, with a couple of Bordeaux and one Spanish – I’ve tasted over the past several months. The wines are listed in order of preference within each category but all are recommended. 

Syrah, also known as Shiraz in Australia, is one of the noblest grapes of the Rhône Valley, and the most widely planted Rhône variety in the state. Syrah is most closely associated with the Northern Rhône appellations of Hermitage and Côte-Rotie, where it produces wines of phenomenal elegance and longevity. 

2015 Bootleg “Prequel” ($35) Bootleg is a label associated with Jackson Family Wines and made with Sonoma County fruit, including fifteen percent petite sirah. This is a luscious wine with supple tannins and a velvety, lingering finish. It is exuberant, bold, with concentrated fruit, yet drinks with a sense of richness and opulence. 

2017 Beckmen Clone #1 ($52) The Beckman family has been crafting exceptional wines in Santa Barbara County since 1994. Their Purisma Mountain Vineyard, planted to mostly Rhône varieties, along with chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, is Demeter Certified biodynamic. This wine is one of the only Syrahs centered solely on Clone #1. It reflects the clone’s distinct savory profile of dark fruit with chocolate notes to compliment the variety’s red berry and peppery character.

2016 Sosie “Vivio Vineyard” ($38) Located in Bennett Valley near the Petaluma Gap that funnels cooling Pacific air inland, this young Sonoma winery has produced a wine that reflects those conditions with bright red fruit and refreshing acidity, bold flavors and tannic finish.

2016 Cuvaison “Diablo” ($45) Referring to the Diablo clay soil where this independent, family-owned winery, a pioneer of the Carneros region since 1969, grows the syrah in its estate vineyard, this wine is plump and fruit driven, with meaty and peppery notes. 

Grenache is believed to have originated in Spain, where it is known as garnacha. It is now the most widely planted grape in the southern Rhône Valley (and especially renowned in Châteauneuf-du-Pape) and the second most widely planted grape worldwide. It is most often blended, such as with syrah and mourvèdre in France and Australia and with tempranillo in Rioja.

2017 Beckmen Purisima Mountain ($50) This wine exhibits bright red fruits, baking spices and a silky texture. 

2018 Breaking Bread Redwood Valley ($24) A new project by the winemaker of Kokomo Winery, Erik Miller, the defining characteristic is whole-cluster fermentation (carbonic maceration). Miller also uses all native yeast for spontaneous fermentation, all native bacteria for malolactic fermentation, and adds no sulphur throughout fermentation. This produces a fresh, lighter style but is still structured and quite tasty, with candied red berries. 

Mourvèdre also is native to Spain, where it is known as Monastrell. Its wine typically is more structured and fuller bodied than Grenache but less concentrated than Sryah. It is the most important grape of the Provençalwine region of Bandol.

2016 Tablas Creek “Esprit de Tablas” ($60) Tablas Creek is the result of decades of collaboration among two of the wine community’s leading families: the Perrin family, proprietors of Château de Beaucastel and the Haas family of Vineyard Brands importers. In 1989, they purchased a 120-acre parcel twelve miles from the Pacific Ocean in what is now the Adelaida District in Paso Robles and released their first wine in 1997. With mourvedre as its backbone supplemented with syrah, grenache and counoise, this is structured but sleek and rich, quite spicy, with deep berry fruit, earthy, and meaty accents. 

2016 J. Lohr “Gesture” ($30) Gesture is a line of wines generally available only to J. Lohr wine club members and tasting room visitors. Now, the winery is making these limited production wines available on their website. From a vineyard in the highly sought after Adelaida district of Paso Robles, this shows nice blackberry with mint and oak. It is firm and rich, with hints of pencil shavings. 

The petite sirah grape originated in southern France when a scientist crossed the syrah and peloursin grapes in 1880. Introduced in California shortly thereafter, it has been a popular blending grape ever since.

2016 Concannon Livermore Valley ($20) From a family that has been making wine since 1883 and that lays claim to producing the first varietal Petite Sirah in 1961, this is typically intense but with well managed tannins, sweet berries, and baking spices.  

2017 Mettler Estate ($25) From a family that has been growing grapes in California’s Lodi appellation for over 100 years and has become leaders in organically and sustainably grown viticulture. The wine is husky but drinks smoothly with a lot of flavor.

In addition to these Rhône-style wines, I enjoyed two fine Cabernet Franc-based wines. Cabernet Franc originated in the Basque region of Southwestern France. Often used as a blending grape, most notably in Bordeaux, it also is prized for its signature savory character, including a distinctive tobacco and bell pepper notes. It is the dominant red grape of Chinon in the Loire Valley and often is a significant portion of the blends in St. Emilion. 

2016 Chappellet Napa Valley ($85) The Chappellet family has been producing highly prized wines since 1967 from their perch on Pritchard Hill overlooking the eastern Napa Valley. Renowned for their Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine arguably is equally impressive. With small amounts of cabernet sauvignon, malbec and petit verdot added, it is richly perfumed, silky, yet well structured and delivers a complex of ripe, concentrated red fruits, forest, and savory spices. 

2016 Ehler’s Estate Napa Valley ($65) Ehlers Estate is a winery and organic vineyard in Napa’s St. Helena sub-appellation that dates to 1886. All proceeds from the sale of its wines are returned to the LeDucq Foundation to support cardiovascular research. This wine is balanced with finesse but firm tannins; luscious fruit finishes nicely fresh. 

Some of my favorite wines anywhere have their origin in the south of France, in Spain and in Portugal. And they are ideal for the varied foods we eat during the holidays.

France’s Rhône Valley, for instance. It runs roughly from Vienne in the north to Avignon in the south. The northern Rhône, where the leading appellations are Hermitage and Côte Rôtie, is syrah country. 

While Saint-Joseph, a thirty mile long appellation along the western bank of the Rhône River, is considered secondary to them, its best wines can still approximate the substance and power, intense fruit, and firm tannins of those two but at more affordable prices. I really enjoyed the 2015 E. Guigal ($33), from a seventy-year-old firm with a reputation for quality at the top of the wine world. Moderately intense, fresh red berries mingle with herbs and suggestions of its granite soil. 

And Crozes-Hermitage similarly is generally a less structured, complex wine but some, like the 2017 Ferraton “La Matinière” ($26) are an exception to the rule. This is syrah for everyday drinking; expressive with plenty of bright, fresh fruit, notes of spice, leather and smoke and smooth texture. 

Do you know “The Prisoner”, the popular California red blend created by winemaker Dave Phinney and now owned by the drinks conglomerate Constellation Brands? Well, Mr. Phinney (while still responsible for Orin Swift wines) has moved on to southwestern France, namely the commune of Maury. A region with views of the Pyrenees and just two hours north of Barcelona, Phinney was mesmerized by its steep vineyards of mostly old grenache vines and other Rhône varieties. 

For about ten years now, Phinney has been making wine there under the Department 66 name (a reference to its administrative division and also known as the Côtes Catalanes wine region). Made primarily from grenache, the wines he makes here are potent, intense and luscious. 

The 2014 “D66” ($38) is dark, deep, voluptuous dark berries, cassis, spice and earthy, stony notes, rich but drinks elegantly. The 2015 “Others” ($25) is made for earlier drinking, with plum, dark berries, earth, spice and floral notes, all going down easy with a supple texture.

Across the Pyrenees, Ribera del Duero produces many of Spain’s most prestigious wines. Tempranillo is the premier red grape, though here it is known as tinto fino or tinta del país. From García Figuero, the 2016 Tinto Figuero 12 ($32) is a Crianza that was aged 24 months before release with twelve months in barrel. It has a nice balance of fruit and oak, fresh cherry and plum, with notes of licorice, smoke and dark chocolate, light tannins and lively acidity support the supple texture.

Located in the northwestern region of Galicia, Valdeorras (valley of gold) has a wine growing history that dates at least to the Romans. Today, it is known for good value white wines from godello and red wines from mencía, such as the 2016 Pagos De Galir ($17). Smoky and leafy notes frame cherry and berry flavors in this fresh, focused red. Showing detail and balance, this is supple and expressive, with a juicy finish. 

Neighboring Portugal has long been a premier source of fine (especially red) table wine values. These days, wineries are contending at premium levels, too. 

The Symington family, a fifth generation Port producer and one of the most respected names in Portuguese wine, offers several good table wines. Typically they feature high proportions of touriga nacional and touriga franca, two of the major grapes of Port, occasionally with small amounts of others. From the family’s famed Quinta do Vesuvio vineyard, the 2015 Pombal de Vesuvio ($28) is full of ripe black fruits and minerality. The wine is intended for early drinking—rich with tannins but equally full of bright fruits. 

Prats + Symington is a twenty-year partnership between Charles Symington and Bruno Prats, the former winemaker and owner of Chateau Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux. This wine is intended to marry the best of both worlds. With fruit sourced from one of the oldest estates in Portugal, Quinta de Roriz, combined with Bordelaise winemaking, expect a complex, yet approachable wine. The 2017 Post Scriptum de Chryseia ($27) is designed for drinking in the near term. It is structured but expressive of red fruits and savory elements, elegant and finishes with relaxed tannins

I haven’t researched this in depth but I feel relatively comfortable in asserting that the diversity of wine grape varieties grown in the Mediterranean countries is the most, um, diverse on the planet. This also applies to Mediterranean white grapes, the subject of this column. In general, they offer a diversity of experiences, all of them with a crisp, refreshing character.

As it turns out, I had an overrepresentation of Italian wines in my recent tastings. I have written before about the amazing cornucopia of, by some estimates, about 2000 indigenous wine grape varieties grown in Italy – with about 400 vinified commercially. This vinous diversity includes fine white wines from familiar grapes like chardonnay and sauvignon. But I find the native varieties most worth seeking out, as well as usually budget friendly. Here are but a handful that deserves your attention. 

On the eastern coast of Central Italy on the Adriatic Sea, verdicchio is the signature white grape of the Le Marche region. Its name comes from the word “verde” because of the wines’ naturally green shades and dry, refreshing style. The best ones tend to carry the designation Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi Classico Superiore and typically feature brisk apple and citrus, with stony notes. One of the most respected producers and the oldest family-owned winery in the region (dating back to 1871), Garofoli specializes in the grape, especially from the prestigious Castelli di Jesi area. The fresh, elegant 2018 “Macrina” ($14), which is made with slightly late harvest grapes to add body, is emblematic of the style. Their 2016 “Podium” Classico Superiore ($26), a special selection of grapes from a single-vineyard, shows more intense fruit with honey and solid structure.

In nearby Abruzzo, the picturesque, mountainous region with the most national parks and fore­sts in Italy, the most common white grape is trebbiano. The 2017 Citra Trebbiano d’Abruzzo ($10) is a good introduction and an amazing value considering it is estate grown and bottled from a collection of family-owned vineyards in the Chieti, Abruzzo’s primary wine growing province. 

And I was impressed with two wines from pecorino, an old variety once thought to be extinct that has been resurrected in recent decades. Its wines typically are high acid, high alcohol, but still fresh and easy going. I enjoyed the luscious palate balanced with pleasant citrus of the nonvintage Ferzo ($26) and appreciated the organic and biodynamic farming methods employed for the 2017 Fattoria La Valentina ($16). 

Sicily’s indigenous grapes also are generating much interest. The Tasca family, one of Sicily’s oldest winemaking families (since the 1830’s), has been at the forefront of preserving and promoting many of the island’s local grapes, like catarratto, which generally produces neutral wines but the Tasca’s have shown it can excel when treated with care. Their Tenuta Regaleali estate also is committed to sustainability in the vineyards and the winery. The 2017 Catarratto “Antisa” ($20) belies the grape’s history of being used solely in blends. Even with no oak influence, it is fairly full-bodied wine with deep citrus notes complimented with flowery elements. The 2018 Bianco ($15) a blend of inzolia (47%), grecanico (22%), catarratto (25%) and chardonnay (6%) – whew!, is well rounded with crisp acidity, a refreshing sipper unexpectedly full of flavor.

Under the Tenuta Tascante banner, the Tasca family also promotes native varieties of the Mt. Etna province. The tallest, most active volcano in Europe also happens to overlook volcanic soils, old vines, and multiple microclimates, making for some world-class vineyards. Ahead of the curve for an area that has become a darling of the wine industry, the family makes wines, for example, from carricante, which has been described as Etna’s best white variety. The 2017 Carricante “Buonora” ($21) shows the grape’s signature mineral and saline character balanced with crisp apple and citrus and lightly herbal notes. 

Nearby Greece also has seen a modern renaissance in winemaking even as wineries rediscover its ancient native grape varieties, such as moschofilero and malagouzia. Since we’re looking at crisp, versatile white wines in this column, a side trip seems appropriate. These two grapes, with their aromatic, floral notes, are distinctive alternatives to the so-called international varieties, like chardonnay. 

Moschofilero has been cultivated in Greece for centuries, mainly grown in the Peloponnese peninsula. This pink-skinned variety is also used for rosés and sparkling wines. It produces lighter-bodied, intensely floral, fresh wines with crisp acidity and notes of lychee, melon, and lemon, such as the delightful 2016 Boutari ($15). From Domaine Skouras comes a unique style in the 2016 Salto “Wild Yeast” ($19), labeled “Moscofilero”, which is quite crisp and tart with citrus and a touch of tropical fruit.

Found in central Greece and Macedonia, malagouzia, a grape that almost became extinct, exemplifies the contemporary interest in Greece’s vinous history. The 2016 Alpha Estate ($15) is emblematic of the variety’s intense nose and highly expressive floral, citrus, tropical and stone fruit with fresh herb notes. It is full and round yet vibrant and fresh.

Finally, to round out my tasting: from Galicia in northwestern Spain, comes an even lesser known grape: godello-doña blanca. The 2016 Godelia Godello ($17), from the sub-region of Bierzo, reveals the grape’s ability to produce concentrated but fresh, mineral-driven whites. From the nearby Valdeorras sub-appellation within the Galicia region (where the grape is believed to have originated), the 2015 Pagos del Galir Godello ($19) satisfies with citrus and a savory note.

And … finally, from France, specifically the Côtes du Rhône, the 2017 Les Dauphins Blanc ($11) marries honeyed aromas and fresh fruit. Typical of Southern Rhône whites, it is a blend in this case of mostly grenache blanc with some marsanne, clairette and viognier. 

While Chardonnay is still the most popular American wine and Sauvignon Blanc is a solid second (and I’ve written about both recently), many wine buyers are showing more interest in a diversity of flavor profiles from other grapes. Generally, you should find the wines in this column are bright, food-friendly and meant to be enjoyed at any time but especially with food. 

Let’s begin with several wines from Rhone varieties.

Viognier. Viognier once upon a time was quite rare but is now the most-planted white Rhone varietal in the United States. It produces wines with intense aromatics of peach, apricot, apple, and floral notes, as well as viscosity and lushness. Maybe that’s why there were more of these in my tastings. Listed in order of preference: My favorite was the 2017 Chappellet Cold Creek Vineyard (rich, luxurious, $38), followed closely by the 2017 J. Lohr Gesture (juicy, honeyed, $30). 

I also enjoyed two wines with a bonus of being “SIP (Sustainability in Practice) Certified”, which recognizes sustainable winegrowing and winemaking, environmental preservation, and social responsibility: the 2018 Record Family Wines Paso Robles (silky, tangy, $25) and 2018 Opolo Central Coast (intense, viscous, $26). 

Roussanne. Although very little Roussanne is grown in the US, I often find it is results equal to Viognier, with its honeyed richness, savory, exotic and fruity notes. I really enjoyed the delicate, natural acidity of the 2015 Sosie Vivio Vineyard Bennett Valley (Sonoma County, $38). 

Grenache Blanc. A mutation of the red grape grenache, grenache blanc is widely grown in the south of France. It produces fuller bodied wines with citrus and melon, such as the 2017 Halter Ranch Adelaida District Estate Bottled (Paso Robles, $34), another SIP Certified wine.

Picpoul Blanc. According to Tablas Creek winery, picpoul blanc is one of the lesser-known Rhône grapes and rare in California. But they have revealed its promise in that state. Their 2018 Adelaida District (Paso Robles, $30) is a good representative of the bright acidity, minerality, lemon and herbal qualities typical of wines from this grape. 

Several other regions of France also were represented in my tastings:

Muscat. One of the most aromatic of grapes, several varieties in the muscat family are grown all over the Mediterranean and can yield luscious dry or sweet wines known for floral and spicy characteristics – such as with the 2018 Eberle Muscat Canelli Paso Robles ($22). 

White Pinot Noir. The 2018 Left Coast White Pinot Noir ($24) actually is a white wine made from Burgundy’s premier red grape, pinot noir – think citrus, apple, pear, orange – crafted by not allowing the juice to have contact with the skins. 

Pinot Gris. This grape – generally noted for stone fruit, melon, and citrus – is genetically a clone of pinot noir, and is believed to have originated in Burgundy yet these days is more prominent in Alsace, Germany and Austria (where it is known as grauburgunder or ruländer), and, of course, Italy (where it is known as pinot grigio). It’s the leading white variety in Oregon and increasingly popular in California. Its name also refers to the greyish color of its skin. It was the next most represented grape in my tastings. 

Wines labeled Pinot Gris stylistically are expected to be more in the Alsatian style: ripe, full bodied and sumptuous. Like the viscous caramel and pear of the 2018 Chehalem “Chehalem Mountains” (Willamette Valley, $25) and the crisp, tangy, citrus of the 2018 Left Coast “The Orchard”  ($18). From California, the lush, though tight honeysuckle, peach and the melon of the 2018 Fel Anderson Valley ($25) delivers much enjoyment. 

Chenin Blanc. Primarily associated with the Loire Valley but increasingly successful in South Africa, it can produce impressively complex, luscious dry or sweet wines. Unfortunately, California versions are often simple. But not the 2018 Dry Creek Vineyard “Dry” ($16). From a choice vineyard in Clarksburg in Lodi, it is aromatic and brisk, balanced with bright apple and honey. The 2018 Chappellet “Molly Chappellet” Napa Valley ($38) is a lot of wine, rewarding drinkers with a complex of citrus, apricot, and stone fruits complimented by apple notes. 

And then there were several from other European countries:

Riesling. Although it still has a reputation of being only a sweet wine, Riesling – the iconic wine of Germany – often delightfully balances residual sugar and bracing acidity. But more and more, dry or off-dry Riesling is taking its place at the table. The best wines delightfully balance juicy, dramatic expressions of apple, grapefruit or peach (and sometimes peach or apricot) with bracing acidity, occasionally with steely, mineral components. It is intensely aromatic, impressively structured, and amazingly expressiveness of its terroir. The 2017 Kung Fu Girl Columbia Valley ($13) from Charles Smith Wines is an affordable introduction to New World Riesling. Its fresh minerality and sharp core cut through the mildly sweet pear fruit. 

Kerner. With origins in Germany, Kerner is a cross between riesling and trollinger (also known as schiava grossa in Italy). It’s rare in Europe and even rarer in California. That’s part of what makes the floral, citrusy 2018 Sidebar Cellars ($25) so interesting. From the Mokelumne River AVA in Lodi, winemaker David Ramey sourced the fruit from the only kerner planting in California – the Mokelumne Glen Vineyard to make the only 100% Kerner bottling in California. 

It is a dry, deeply aromatic, medium-bodied, satisfying wine. 

Grüner Veltliner. Austria’s signature grape has become so popular we have begun to see small but increasing plantings in California. It produces outgoing, lively wines, with succulent fruit – citrus and tropical – and hints of mineral and spice. The 2017 Fiddlehead Cellars Fiddlestix Vineyard ($30) from Sta. Rita Hills in Santa Barbara County is a good introduction to what this grape can do in California.

Albariño. Primarily identified with northwest Spain and Portugal (where it is known as alvarinho) it can make invigorating, floral and citrus-flecked wines. There also are some interesting, successful examples in California, notably in the central coast regions, where I found these two: 2017 Castoro Cellars Double Black Vineyard ($30) – an Estate Grown wine from Paso Robles with hints of fig; and the fruity 2018 Opolo Edna Valley ($26) with nutty notes. Both are SIP Certified.

Falanghina. An Italian grape primarily cultivated in Campania in southern Italy, with some production in the neighboring regions of Puglia and Abruzzo, its wines tend to aromatic apple, peach, and almond, with herbal streaks. The fresh, crisp 2017 Castoro Cellars Whale Rock Vineyard ($30), from Estate Grown Paso Robles fruit, is a tasty example.

What initially looked like a fad, a marketing Hail Mary, now looks like it could be a bona fide wine category. Recent market research about wine buying preferences has suggested shifts in consumer preferences for packaging alternatives to bottles. Particularly, the data revealed a rise in sales of canned wine, which notably tend to be sold in smaller formats and promote convenience. Total growth in wine sales the last year was three percent, while overall growth in canned wines was 80 percent, according to the Nielsen data. 

Similarly, recent research by WICresearch found strong consumer preference for smaller sizes of wine-in-a-can. Respondents said they preferred smaller can size because of convenience, occasion, sustainability and portion control/variety sampling. Even within the category, there seems to be a move to the 250ml format (roughly equivalent to 1 ½ glasses, sold in 4 packs) and the 187ml size (essentially one glass), though the 375ml package (equal to two ample glass pours) still leads sales. 

As far as types of wine, Rosé led the growth with nearly double the annual sales of other leading varietals, though white wines still are slightly more popular. I tasted samples from six brands and found most of the wines to be good quality, especially for the modest prices. Not surprising, this isn’t where you go for complexity and depth. But you can expect bright, fresh, fruity and varietally accurate wines.

Canned Oregon. From the highly respected Stoller Winery and definitely focused on appealing to the outdoor adventure lifestyle. I found each of the wines – including Rosé, Pinot Noir, and White Bubbles – to be of good quality, but especially enjoyed the Pinot Gris and Rosé Bubbles. ($6/375 ml) 

Cascadian Outfitters. From Goose Ridge Estate in Columbia Valley and owned by a family with about a hundred-year history of farming Vineyards in Washington. The Rosé, Chardonnay and Red Blend all were of high quality. These wines are promoted as one of the only canned wines to be sourced from all estate vineyards. ($5/375 ml)

Dark Horse. This is one of Gallo’s most popular brands in bottle and now also in cans. To me, the Pinot Grigio, Rosé, and Brut Bubbles were pleasantly straightforward. The Rosé Bubbles was a notable exception with its fresh cherry, raspberry and crisp palate. ($6/375 mml)

Day Owl. From O’Neill Vintners & Distillers (maker of national brands Line 39, Harken, Exitus, Robert Hall and Austerity). Made with grapes from California’s Central Valley and Central Coast, this Rosé is delightfully bright and refreshing. ($7/375 ml)

Joe to Go. A brand of canned wine recently added to the “Wine by Joe” portfolio, the everyday wine project of Dobbes Family Estate in Dundee, Oregon. The Pinot Gris, Rosé, and Pinot Noir are solid wines. ($7/375 ml)

Prophecy. Another Gallo brand, this one benefits from the company’s international reach. Of the wines I tasted, I most appreciated the Sauvignon Blanc, sourced from Marlborough, NZ and Rosé, from southern France. ($13/250 ml 2-packs)

So, the marketing pitch, in this case, generally fits the wines. These wines are ideal for casual occasions such as the pool, patio, beach, ballpark, picnics, concerts, hikes, and camping – all the places where bottles are precarious. 

A final note: while these wines are easy to drink, be careful, particularly with the 375 ml cans, which generally contain twice the alcohol in a beer can and actually are half a bottle of wine. 

Over the last few years, Rosé has really, finally found acceptance with the American consumer. Wine industry publications report double-digit growth in the category and even triple digit growth in some price ranges. Even rosé wine festivals are popping up, like the one in Denver recently.

This popularity is focused on dry wines modeled after European styles, not the sweet “blush” wines that have been popular for years. A variety of red grapes are used and the best wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. Expect a flavor profile similar to their red siblings, while they drink more like white wines. 

Expect bright, fresh fruit aromas and flavors ranging from strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon. 

Thankfully, this popularity has been accompanied by improved quality, as I found in my recent tastings. Because of their vibrant freshness and lively fruit, pink wines are almost always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available. Note, all wines here are 2018 vintage, unless otherwise stated.

Among Rosé devotees, France is the prime source. There is a dizzying array of French Rosés from all over the country (including Alsace, Loire, Champagne and Bordeaux) but most notably the south – places like Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, Bandol, Rhône Valley, and Tavel. 

Rosé from Provence in particular offers consistent quality at reasonable prices. And Rosé from Côtes de Provence (made mostly from grenache) is especially popular. My recommended wines generally exhibited delicate, fresh red berries, crisp citrus fruits, juicy freshness, and a suggestion of creaminess: 

• Château Minuty, an 18^th century estate using sustainable methods, offers the estate grown “Rosé et Or” ($40) with intense fruit and floral, spice notes and the tart but smooth “M de Minuty” ($21) 
• Domaine Cala, owned by Los Angeles celebrity Chef Joachim Splichal in the Coteaux Varois en Provence, has produced the savory “Classic” ($16) and the rich (likely from its oak aging) “Prestige” ($25) 
• Fleur de Mer ($17), produced by a cooperative near Saint-Tropez, is soft and appealing 

Other southern France appellations also produce worthwhile rosés. From the Côtes du Rhône, the tart, spicy Les Dauphins ($12), from a 100-year-old producer, is ¾ grenache, with the rest cinsault and syrah. And I have two from the Pyrénées-Orientales, a department within Côtes du Roussillon bordering Spain: the fresh, lively Les Vignes de Bila-Haut ($15) from the great Rhône Valley producer Michel Chapoutier and from Department 66 (which is also an administrative division in the area and notably near the Pyrenees and France’s border with Spain), California winemaker Orin Swift owns a winery with the same name and makes the firm, round, spicy, alcoholic “Fragile” Rosé (2017, $18). 

Italians also love Rosé, though it is often labeled Rosato. From the Veneto, the Tenuta Sant’Antonio winery (a well-known maker of Valpolicella and Soave) also produces fresh, focused wines from local and international varieties under the Scaia label. The Scaia Rosato ($13), 100 percent the native rondinella, is lively and juicy, fresh and focused. 

I also was impressed with the Regaleali “Le Rose” ($15) from the prestigious Sicilian wine family, Tasca d’Almerita. Made from indigenous nerello mascalese grapes, it balances crispness with a suggestion of sweetness.

These days, it seems nearly every California winery produces a rosé. Most seem to focus either on Rhône varieties like syrah, grenache and mourvèdre or the Burgundian grape, pinot noir but you also can find other varieties and blends. 

For Rhône fans, I recommend these from my tastings: 

• Beckmen Grenache “Purisma Mountain Vineyard” ($25), from Ballard Canyon in Santa Barbara County, is vibrant, sleek, lively. 
• Halter Ranch Grenache Paso Robles (68% Grenache, 23% Mourvèdre, 9% Picpoul Blanc, $28) zesty, tangy raspberry, spicy certified sustainanble
• Sosie Syrah “Vivio Vineyard” ($25) Bennett Valley Sonoma County produced with minimal intervention fresh, full, round
• Cline Ancient Vines Mourvedre ($18) primitivo, zinfandel Sonoma-based winery produces fine values from Contra Costs County grapes tangy, juicy
• 2018 Oak Farm “Silvaspoons Vineyards” ($24) Lodi grenache intense, round
• Edna Valley Vineyard ($12), a jewell of the central Coast, this San Louis Obispo winery blendingtempranillo, syrah, grenache, and mourvedre; tart, spicy

And I find it interesting that wineries seem to have latched on to pinot noir as the grape of choice. This is likely because the grape typically produces lighter colored wines anyway and tends to reveal its primary aromas and flavors at earlier ripeness than, say, cabernet sauvignon. These will satisfy Pinot Noir fans: the tangy, tart Cuvaison ($30) from Carneros; the full, juicy Riverbench ($25) from Santa Maria Valley; and from Oregon’s Willamette Valley, the racy, creamy Left Coast ($24); the intense, high-toned Stoller ($25); and juicy, tangy Chehalem ($25) 

And for variety: try a longtime Zinfandel favorite the earthy, spicy Pedroncelli Dry Creek Valley “Signature Selection” ($17). This Sonoma stalwart has produced a certified sustainable wine easygoing with spice. And the Gamble Rosé ($22), from a family with 100 years farming in the Napa Valley, is a juicy, tangy, delightful Bordeaux-style blend. 

No review of Rosé would be complete without pink bubbly: 

From Italy’s Emilia-Romagna, Cleto Chiarli has been a benchmark for traditional, honest and high-quality Lambrusco for nearly 160 years in Modena. The NV Brut di Noir Rosé Spumante ($16) is a delightful Lambrusco from the local grasparossa grape and pinot nero (pinot noir) showing hints of cinnamon spice and sweetness. 

From California, the J Vineyards Brut Rosé ($35) is a long time favorite. Its 66 percent pinot noir, 33 percent chardonnay, and 1 percent pinot meunier yield intense fruit balanced with creamy effervescence and the 2015 Cuvaison Brut Rosé ($50), a blend of 60 percent chardonnay and 40 percent pinot noir is rich and luscious.

From Oregon, Left Coast “Queen Bee Bubbly” ($24), a 100 percent pinot noir fermented in oak with a tirage including estate grown honey to feed the encapsulated yeast in the bottom of each bottle (usually the secondary fermentation to produce the bubbles is prompted with a sugar solution) is bright, fresh and surprisingly complex. 

DIFFERENT CHARDONNAY STYLES OFFER ENJOYMENT FOR WARM WEATHER (AND ALL YEAR)

As temperatures warm, many of us begin to crave more white wines,rosés, and lighter red wines. Among the whites, Chardonnay continues its several decade run as the undisputed favorite of American consumers. I suspect its main attraction is that good wine is available in at many price levels.

Although its popularity has fluctuated at times, it remains the world’s most popular grape.Certainly, California data show chardonnay was the most popular variety grown in 2018, just edging out cabernet sauvignon.I suspect its main attraction is that good wine is available in many styles, at many price levels.

Here, I highlight two basic styles of California and Oregon Chardonnay that basically draw inspiration from Burgundy, the historical benchmark for Chardonnay. Since Burgundy is the historical benchmark for Chardonnay, I find it useful to look there for comparisons to two general styles. 

What has been described as traditional practices of the Côte d’Or – use of mostly new oak barrels for fermentation and aging, malolactic fermentation (“malo” converts sharper malic acid to richer lactic acid) and aging on the lees– produce wines of lush texture with notes of cream, butter, toast, butterscotch or vanilla. The grape’s natural citrus fruit may be complimented with, pear, peach, melon, fig or tropical fruit. 

With these characteristics, it’s not surprising Chardonnay has been such a success. For a while, though, some wineries took this style to extremes. Luckily, after a period in the 1980s-1990s producing unbalanced wines (and some backlash from consumers), in the 2000s, growers and winemakers rediscovered the importance of producing harmonious wines. 

A focus on cooler climate vineyards (where early ripening chardonnay thrives) and more respect in the growing and handling of the fruit (earlier harvest and more judicious use of oak, lees, and malo) has led to an abundance of good wine at  (mostly) reasonable prices. As a result, this may be the best time to drink Chardonnay in decades.

Most wines in my tastings followed a version of the Côte d’Or approach. The ones below (in order of my personal preference but all are recommended) deftly walked the line between opulence and freshness, pure fruit and richness,delivering complexity with oak influence more as seasoning. 

Most impressive to me were three single vineyard wines of the 2017 Chappellet Grower Collection ($45): “El Novillero” Carneros – refreshing apricot and peach, honey toast, hazelnut; “Calesa” Petaluma Gap – rich, buttery apple and white fruits fresh herbs spice tangerine nutty; and “Sangiacomo” Carneros – pure, sharp apple, pear, buttery rich. 

• 2016 Mi Sueno Carneros ($42) rich butter cream, caramel apple, ginger 
• 2017 Calera Mt. Harlan ($50) complex, elegant, balanced 
• 2016 Chalk Hill Estate Bottled ($42) floral, bright citrus, apple creamy caramel 
• 2017 Migration Sonoma Coast ($40) floral vanilla, citrus, apricot, racy plush 
• 2015 Long Meadow Ranch Anderson Valley ($39) intense lemon, lime, hint of stone  
• 2016 Sea Smoke Sta. Rita Hills ($60) dramatic citrus, seamless, honeyed 
• 2017 Frank Family Carneros ($38) invigorating pineapple, juicy tropical fruit
• 2015 Rodney Strong Chalk Hill ($22) creamy brown butter, peach, apple, rich, toasty 
• 2016 MacRostie Wildcat Mountain ($46) peach, apple, pear, toasty, spicy, elegant 
• 2017 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($36) apple butter, spicy herb, pineapple
• 2017 Dry Creek Vineyard “Estate Block 10” ($34) ripe orange, pear, broad texture 
• 2017 Left Coast “Truffle Hill” Willamette Valley ($24) delightful orange, tangerine, cashew 
• 2017 J. Lohr Arroyo Vista ($25) juicy, citrus, pineapple, lush, balanced
• 2017 McIntyre Santa Lucia Highlands ($28) focused citrus, firm texture

At the other end of the spectrum, some wineries emulate what can be described as the Chablis style. By limiting the use of oak, especially new oak (both in fermentation and aging) and restricting malo, the intent is to allow more of the pure fruit to shine through, yieldingwines that are fresh, lively and vigorous. This style tends to present a lightness of being, though still with textural interest, intense aromatics and firm backbone. 

• 2017 Jordan Alexander Valley ($34) dramatic apple and citrus, light butterscotch
• 2017 MacRostie Sonoma Coast ($25) zesty stone fruits, lightly savory 
• 2017 FEL Anderson Valley ($32) mixed citrus, juicy, vigorous  
• 2017 Calera Central Coast ($25) intensely crisp citrus, nicely creamy
• 2017 Scheid Estate Grown Monterey ($26) pure citrus, appealing sweet/tart
• 2015 J. McClelland Napa Valley ($35) brisk apple, cream, light spice

Three wines in my tastings eschewed oak altogether. The juice for these “unoaked” wines was fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. The 2018 Stoller Dundee Hills ($28) is a citrusy, peachy delight. The 2018 Chehalem “Inox” ($20) is focused and floral with peach and apple. The 2018 Kendall-Jackson “Avant” ($17) is pure, fresh and slightly sweet. 

Note: Featured Image courtesy of Chappellet Vineyards